FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

I could get on my hands on a JLAudio 13W7 for about 200 dollars w/ box... or get a Single Soundsplinter rl-P 12 for $280...

Which one would you guys get? The W7 has never been pushed with more than 500... (Only has been powered by a JL500/1), it has only been used in a show car..

I will be powering the sub with a single JL 500/1 V1

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

I've had an RL-p12 and think it's a nice sub.


For that price though, I would get the W7.

FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

Actually.. if i was going to go with the Soundsplinter route, i was going to buy 2... and use my 2-12 box, but its only 1cu-in and isnt the SS optimal like a 1.35cu-in?

I have two infinity reference (they look like the kappa perfects, but only handle 350w) and they cant really handle the power from the 500/1, They clack.. or bottom out when i play music with heavy deep bass..

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

Ideally the RL-p's should have around the cubic space that you mentioned.

FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

The real question is, will a W7 beat the SQ of a RL-p 12? Two of them that is

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

I've never had a W7 installed in my car, so I cannot comment on that. What I can tell you, is that I was happy with my RL-p, both in output and SQ. If you want to have some nice SQL, then the two RL-p's sound like a good way to go.

FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

ah, well im poor lol, its a dream of mine hahah.. i guess ill get the W7 and be happy with it.. the JL500/1 is a very nice amp, i was trying to get my hands on a PPI Art series, the 600watt @ 12.2volts one!!, but the guy that was selling it thought i was just messing with his auction cuz i signed up to Ebay just to try to buy the amp :P

2AZN2DMAX

iTrader: (28)

Are you going to buy the 13w7? If you don't want it I will give you $300 for it.

FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

Yeah probably, its replacing my 2 12s. Sorry

DcMaN

iTrader: (13)

dont bother getting the w7 unless you plan on powering it properly.

mendon99

iTrader: (15)

the W7 is a better deal at that price range...

If you have the power, get the W7.

This is about the only time I'd ever suggest JL over SS though..

FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

Well, it will be powered by a single 500/1 :P, ive heard it in the car, it was in a honda civic, powered also by a 500/1, it was pretty loud..

The rl-P 12, is rated for 500-1000RMS, where as the JL is like 500-1500RMS or something

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

Owned the RLp 15 for quite awhile now. Pretty good SQL driver that doesn't need a whole lot of power to get loud. I'd say give the RL-p's a try, and it seems like you have the proper box for it.

Also to note, Mike from SS has top notch customer service.

2AZN2DMAX

iTrader: (28)

JL says the 500/1 is ok to use but I would suggest using a 1000/1. Better to have more than just enough.

adampit

iTrader: (1)

13w7 needs at least 1000 watts to get it moving proper IMO.......

i give around 1300 to each 12w7 right now (i have 2)

FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, well... if i had the money i would have tried to find a better amp than the JL 1000/1 or rather a better amp than the 500/1 i have right now..

I Really like the rl-Ps, but i don't have money to just dish out on subwoofers at the rate of the rl-p's i would be spending like $600+.. I'm just thinking about picking up the W7 because of the price.. only $200? They sell used for like $400, and those are probably not from a show car thats almost never driven, and where as the times I've ridden with him when he decides to take it out, the sub is never turned on/ or the volume is never turned up.

DcMaN

iTrader: (13)

and not 1000 watts, 1000 rms is what is reccomended

FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

....what? When i think about speaker/amp watts, i think RMS. and i also do my research, as you can see up top, i recited the RMS ranges for both the rl-P and the JL13W7.. if i recall correctly, the 500/1 is 500RMS

2AZN2DMAX

iTrader: (28)

Sorry, I'm blind I thought it was a 12w7. You really need a 1000/1 to push it.

FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

Well, is there anything else i could possibly power the 13W7 with, that isnt a 1000/1? Those are pretty damn expensive.

What if i run TWO 500/1s, one to each Voicecoil

2AZN2DMAX

iTrader: (28)

Sure anything that has a RMS power of 1000 watts. I am partial to JL b/c they match everything up so well and their specs for each other are right on point, just check their manuals. Any amp will do just have atleast 1000 watts RMS. With the 1000/1 you are getting 1000 watts whether at 12V or 14V ( I love the RIPS System!)

FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

Yep, ive noticed this on the JL Amps, i rewired my subs from 1.5ohms to 4.5 (my 2 infinity 12s are Eff'd up, their dual 4ohm VC hooked into a 2ohm load, but when i put them in parallel, i get a 1.5 ohm load, instead of a 1ohm) i wanted to see if there was a difference between ">250 Damping Factor @ 2ohm" and ">500 Damping Factor @ 4ohm" Wtf is Damping factor? Isnt it something like, how precise the amp can control the driver? Well, i noticed at 4.5ohm, the sub hits more tightly, than when it was in 1.5ohm, also, my voltage doesn't even flinch a .1 a volt, when its in 4.5ohms

nismos14

iTrader: (56)

Any speaker you get will most likely be a little off of the rated resistance.

bluejays026

i would go with a sound splitter. if you got a w7 you would need to get all your windows replaced with high temperate plixy glass.

joebangaa

iTrader: (3)

What's sound splitter? And why do all your windows need to be replaced w/ a W7? Go hang yourself.

mendon99

iTrader: (15)

lol ive never heard of a W7 breaking any windows. they are not the end-all subwoofer by far..


Joebanga, take it easy dude

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

Deep breath once one a while helps take the anger away

FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

Damn, thats harsh, Well, i guess ill be going with the JL and in the future get a 1000/1 or a USAMP .. and ill just make the infinitys into a house sub with the 500/1 FTW! Anybody know what they use at like Bestbuy to power those amplifiers? I know its a AC/DC Converter, but it doesnt cut out due to low voltage.. hmm

spark plugs.

iTrader: (3)

did you recommend another subwoofer b/c you believe one was TOO loud?

and 1 13w7 is FAR from powerful enough to shatter a window.

adampit

iTrader: (1)

not really man... LOL

to shatter or break a glass window you will have to have enough power and hit the resonant frequency of the glass....

and i have 2 W7's and no problems with my windows nor have any of my friends who have had W7's

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

That's what I would call adding some hot sauce to the story......

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

W7s don't really need a whole lot of power to get loud. This guy that went to the local sound meet had only a 500/1 on his 12W7 and it got pretty stupid loud in his car. Install is key too.

oh, a side note. my RLp 15 ported with 1000 watts going to it gets fairly loud.

FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

ahhh, i just priced quoted a box for a W7, and its like 100-150 so im pretty much going to be spending more than ONE rl-P 12 :P

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

100-150 isn't too bad of a price for a properly built box. i usually charge 120 for a ported box for a 15.

anyhow, i think you'll be content with the RLp

FlipCpt45

iTrader: (6)

I might actually go with the 13W7, cuz at the price, i mean its a very good sub... but not very compatible with anything... i mean 13.5in sub, 3Ohm load... wtf :|, but i dont want the JL just to go to waste, maybe after it, ill just buy some RL-p's and get done with it, and make the JL into a Famtom sub, ono if you've heard of those, the Hometheater version of a 13W7 lol

Donkalion

i Would get the JL W7 Hands down!

shyheim07

For $200 Billz, get the JL

AscendantMax

iTrader: (7)

SS's customer service >>> JL's.

filtor1

iTrader: (7)

I want to know where I can get my hands on a couple 13.5's for $200/ea. Sick deal.