Going to install viper 5900..
04-08-2008, 11:07 AM
#1
Going to install viper 5900..
is there any suggestions? do's and dont's? Hopefully i can get it in friday morning before work at 5pm..lol
UPDATE
Its installed but need alittlme more help
-i cant locate the double pulse wire
-which wire from the 5900 goes to the second starter wire
-do i need a relay for the trunk?
-what do i exactly need to remove to get to the tach wire
-where is the factory arm and dis arm wires? i coult only find the signal lights that are the same color
-which wire can i use for the trunk? like if its opened the alarm will go off?
-it seems like the door trigger is not working..i arm the car then reached my hand in my car and unlock the door and the factory alarm goes off then i open the door and the 5900 dont goes off..
UPDATE
Its installed but need alittlme more help
-i cant locate the double pulse wire
-which wire from the 5900 goes to the second starter wire
-do i need a relay for the trunk?
-what do i exactly need to remove to get to the tach wire
-where is the factory arm and dis arm wires? i coult only find the signal lights that are the same color
-which wire can i use for the trunk? like if its opened the alarm will go off?
-it seems like the door trigger is not working..i arm the car then reached my hand in my car and unlock the door and the factory alarm goes off then i open the door and the 5900 dont goes off..
Last edited by JEXTEL; 04-19-2008 at 08:35 AM.
04-08-2008, 12:48 PM
#2
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
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Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,671
Have a dealer do it and keep that warranty. Although since Im sure you will disregard my suggestion and not care about a warranty it would help to know what vehicle your going to attempt this install in.
04-08-2008, 02:46 PM
#3
and its going in my 97 maxima SE..
04-09-2008, 09:41 AM
#5
04-09-2008, 05:23 PM
#8
04-09-2008, 05:36 PM
#9
04-09-2008, 05:47 PM
#10
(I prefer to mount my antenna, siren, and valet switch beforehand as well.)You might need a few relays, I think the 96 has a second starter and a second accessory. You may need a relay for the trunk pop, I think it's a high-current ground. So make sure you're prepared. Take your time and do it right the first time!
04-09-2008, 07:41 PM
#11
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,671
Theyre both a walk in the park with the exception of a bypass on the '01. Only thing making it easier is access to the doorlocks IN the car. Even having to go into the door on a 96 is fairly simple and the rest is a breeze.
04-09-2008, 07:44 PM
#12
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,671
Since you want some tips ..
nearly all wires (high current aside) can be gotten in the driver kick..
Parking lights
Door trigger
Trunk trigger
Trunk release
Brake
Since that is the easiest and most common location for the valet switch and manual override you can run most wires down there along with your siren output.
Truck release Does need a relay. Second starter does not. You tie both ends (starter side) together going into the Purple start wire, key side (Green) will only need starter one into it.
nearly all wires (high current aside) can be gotten in the driver kick..
Parking lights
Door trigger
Trunk trigger
Trunk release
Brake
Since that is the easiest and most common location for the valet switch and manual override you can run most wires down there along with your siren output.
Truck release Does need a relay. Second starter does not. You tie both ends (starter side) together going into the Purple start wire, key side (Green) will only need starter one into it.
04-09-2008, 07:53 PM
#13
04-09-2008, 08:13 PM
#16
A little more advice would be to have your techsheet and highlight everything thats being connected. Read and re-read the installation manual. Drop the lower dash and kickpanel, get an idea of where everything is going, and prep the alarm outside of the car. So you won't have all of that blood rushing to your head upside down in the dash. (I prefer to mount my antenna, siren, and valet switch beforehand as well.)
You might need a few relays, I think the 96 has a second starter and a second accessory. You may need a relay for the trunk pop, I think it's a high-current ground. So make sure you're prepared. Take your time and do it right the first time!
(I prefer to mount my antenna, siren, and valet switch beforehand as well.)You might need a few relays, I think the 96 has a second starter and a second accessory. You may need a relay for the trunk pop, I think it's a high-current ground. So make sure you're prepared. Take your time and do it right the first time!
Since you want some tips ..
nearly all wires (high current aside) can be gotten in the driver kick..
Parking lights
Door trigger
Trunk trigger
Trunk release
Brake
Since that is the easiest and most common location for the valet switch and manual override you can run most wires down there along with your siren output.
Truck release Does need a relay. Second starter does not. You tie both ends (starter side) together going into the Purple start wire, key side (Green) will only need starter one into it.
nearly all wires (high current aside) can be gotten in the driver kick..
Parking lights
Door trigger
Trunk trigger
Trunk release
Brake
Since that is the easiest and most common location for the valet switch and manual override you can run most wires down there along with your siren output.
Truck release Does need a relay. Second starter does not. You tie both ends (starter side) together going into the Purple start wire, key side (Green) will only need starter one into it.
Also i dont get the ECM part..the where its right in the front of the center console??
-Also im going to be running my power wire off my battery bank in my trunk so should i use 4 gauge to a fuse or i can get away with 8 guage?
-And do i just run my siren wire thru the hole wire the power wire for my sytem is?
-where is the best place to mount the siren? im thinking nest to the alternator area pointing torwards
-Lastly how and where to mount the antenna, and "blinking" lighting
04-09-2008, 08:25 PM
#17
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,671
I will be mounting those first..
So i need to take off the kick panel, steering colunm, and under part of the dash?
Also i dont get the ECM part..the where its right in the front of the center console??
-Also im going to be running my power wire off my battery bank in my trunk so should i use 4 gauge to a fuse or i can get away with 8 guage?
-And do i just run my siren wire thru the hole wire the power wire for my sytem is?
-where is the best place to mount the siren? im thinking nest to the alternator area pointing torwards
-Lastly how and where to mount the antenna, and "blinking" lighting
So i need to take off the kick panel, steering colunm, and under part of the dash?
Also i dont get the ECM part..the where its right in the front of the center console??
-Also im going to be running my power wire off my battery bank in my trunk so should i use 4 gauge to a fuse or i can get away with 8 guage?
-And do i just run my siren wire thru the hole wire the power wire for my sytem is?
-where is the best place to mount the siren? im thinking nest to the alternator area pointing torwards
-Lastly how and where to mount the antenna, and "blinking" lighting
Go to your passenger side floor and look under/behind the radio. There is a panel there that gets removed and the ECM is there with a white/clear cover on the wiring.
- Umm WHY ?!?! There are high current wires right beneath the dash for that use.
- You can.
-Firewall point DOWN
- Top of windshield and the 'blinking thing' is called and LED. You can use an empty button slot or somewhere on the dash/center console.
Although based on these questions I would still strongly urge you to seek a professional.
04-09-2008, 08:34 PM
#18
LOL "blinking lighting".... if I'm not mistaken the cutout for the LED is 9/32". And there are definitely wires under your dash for 12V (should be around 10 gauge). You'll definitely notice the ECM, it's a rectangle with dozens of wires going in/out of it. When you drill in the siren - LOOK TWICE DRILL ONCE. And yes, point it downwards. Get a friend to help if you need a little support with all this.
Or, like suggested take it to a pro, an authorized DEI retailer to retain the warranty.
EDIT: Also, like I said, read and re-read the installation manual like it's your Bible. It will definitely help. I know you haven't because all of these questions you just asked are answered in the manual. Also, when you're done, the back of the manual has the programming information, you'll need to program double pulse unlock and something else I forgot about..
Or, like suggested take it to a pro, an authorized DEI retailer to retain the warranty.EDIT: Also, like I said, read and re-read the installation manual like it's your Bible. It will definitely help. I know you haven't because all of these questions you just asked are answered in the manual. Also, when you're done, the back of the manual has the programming information, you'll need to program double pulse unlock and something else I forgot about..
Just the panel under the dash, no need to remove the column or the clamshell.
Go to your passenger side floor and look under/behind the radio. There is a panel there that gets removed and the ECM is there with a white/clear cover on the wiring.
- Umm WHY ?!?! There are high current wires right beneath the dash for that use.
- You can.
-Firewall point DOWN
- Top of windshield and the 'blinking thing' is called and LED. You can use an empty button slot or somewhere on the dash/center console.
Although based on these questions I would still strongly urge you to seek a professional.
Go to your passenger side floor and look under/behind the radio. There is a panel there that gets removed and the ECM is there with a white/clear cover on the wiring.
- Umm WHY ?!?! There are high current wires right beneath the dash for that use.
- You can.
-Firewall point DOWN
- Top of windshield and the 'blinking thing' is called and LED. You can use an empty button slot or somewhere on the dash/center console.
Although based on these questions I would still strongly urge you to seek a professional.
Last edited by 01GLEMist; 04-09-2008 at 08:39 PM.
04-09-2008, 08:58 PM
#19
Just the panel under the dash, no need to remove the column or the clamshell.
Go to your passenger side floor and look under/behind the radio. There is a panel there that gets removed and the ECM is there with a white/clear cover on the wiring.
- Umm WHY ?!?! There are high current wires right beneath the dash for that use.
- You can.
-Firewall point DOWN
- Top of windshield and the 'blinking thing' is called and LED. You can use an empty button slot or somewhere on the dash/center console.
Although based on these questions I would still strongly urge you to seek a professional.
Go to your passenger side floor and look under/behind the radio. There is a panel there that gets removed and the ECM is there with a white/clear cover on the wiring.
- Umm WHY ?!?! There are high current wires right beneath the dash for that use.
- You can.
-Firewall point DOWN
- Top of windshield and the 'blinking thing' is called and LED. You can use an empty button slot or somewhere on the dash/center console.
Although based on these questions I would still strongly urge you to seek a professional.
-Thanks i never thought of doing it on the firewall
-ill put the led in the factory location or some thing( i was just thinking maybe some else i should put it..)
04-09-2008, 11:04 PM
#20
04-10-2008, 03:59 AM
#21
Im just saying around here the fast and easiest way to stop an alarm is to break the window and pop the hood and cut the pos wire..then the alram is shut down..but if the alarm is ran off the batteries in the trunk it will stay going off and hopefully have the thief going WTF and leave..
04-10-2008, 05:57 AM
#22
or he could just cut the siren wire under the hood.
If a theif really wants your car, he'll get it. If you have a chip in your key, they usually wont be able to get it then. But even then, they could flat bed it.
If a theif really wants your car, he'll get it. If you have a chip in your key, they usually wont be able to get it then. But even then, they could flat bed it.
04-10-2008, 09:30 AM
#24
i plan on added the tilt sensor too..but that will only slow him down and not stop him..
I heard they dont last long and i plan on running 4 sirens all together...and possible some police strobe lights
04-10-2008, 09:55 AM
#25
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,671
Doesnt make much sense.
Tilt sensor is a waste IMO especially if you ever park on a hill.
You heard wrong, but Id love to hear who feeds you this crap. 4 sirens .. you will need another relay.
Oddly I have a $42K truck with about $12k worth of stuff in it and Never felt the need to add or do all these 'extra things' you feel the need for. Must have a gold mine in there ..
04-10-2008, 11:08 AM
#26
Doesnt make much sense.
Tilt sensor is a waste IMO especially if you ever park on a hill.
You heard wrong, but Id love to hear who feeds you this crap. 4 sirens .. you will need another relay.
Oddly I have a $42K truck with about $12k worth of stuff in it and Never felt the need to add or do all these 'extra things' you feel the need for. Must have a gold mine in there ..
Tilt sensor is a waste IMO especially if you ever park on a hill.
You heard wrong, but Id love to hear who feeds you this crap. 4 sirens .. you will need another relay.
Oddly I have a $42K truck with about $12k worth of stuff in it and Never felt the need to add or do all these 'extra things' you feel the need for. Must have a gold mine in there ..
04-10-2008, 11:24 AM
#27
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,671
Stable person? I dont follow Ive given you what you asked for, but apparently your not happy with it.
Isnt that what a forum is for .. advice ?
If you screw up the unit, then your already out the coin it cost you since there is no warranty implied. If you screw up your car it makes matters worse and you will be spending alot more to have it fixed. Ive seen it done numerous times.
Isnt that what a forum is for .. advice ?
If you screw up the unit, then your already out the coin it cost you since there is no warranty implied. If you screw up your car it makes matters worse and you will be spending alot more to have it fixed. Ive seen it done numerous times.
04-10-2008, 12:55 PM
#28
Stable person? I dont follow Ive given you what you asked for, but apparently your not happy with it.
Isnt that what a forum is for .. advice ?
If you screw up the unit, then your already out the coin it cost you since there is no warranty implied. If you screw up your car it makes matters worse and you will be spending alot more to have it fixed. Ive seen it done numerous times.
Isnt that what a forum is for .. advice ?
If you screw up the unit, then your already out the coin it cost you since there is no warranty implied. If you screw up your car it makes matters worse and you will be spending alot more to have it fixed. Ive seen it done numerous times.
04-10-2008, 01:03 PM
#29
yea, I think you're referring to ROE (realmofexcurison), I've sene you on there. But, 4 sirens wouldn't help that much. You already have a 2-way pager, and a standard siren. I have air horns mounted on mine just for kicks. But, you WILL NEED extra relays to drive >1 horn or airhorns, the alarm's output can't push all of that.
You may just want to look into the DEI 508D radar sensor, but be prepared to run out everytime the win blows. Unless, you have a precise and accurate adjustment on the sensor.
You may just want to look into the DEI 508D radar sensor, but be prepared to run out everytime the win blows. Unless, you have a precise and accurate adjustment on the sensor.
04-10-2008, 07:52 PM
#30
yea, I think you're referring to ROE (realmofexcurison), I've sene you on there. But, 4 sirens wouldn't help that much. You already have a 2-way pager, and a standard siren. I have air horns mounted on mine just for kicks. But, you WILL NEED extra relays to drive >1 horn or airhorns, the alarm's output can't push all of that.
You may just want to look into the DEI 508D radar sensor, but be prepared to run out everytime the win blows. Unless, you have a precise and accurate adjustment on the sensor.
You may just want to look into the DEI 508D radar sensor, but be prepared to run out everytime the win blows. Unless, you have a precise and accurate adjustment on the sensor.
04-12-2008, 06:41 PM
#32
I dont have enough time to put everything thing up so im putting in 2 hours a day..
so far i go the antenna mount, siren, brain, and shock sensor.
Trommow will be the door and hood trigger with lock and unlock input for the doorss
Problems
-Where do you guys mount the Shock sensor? It seems no matter where i mount it i cant get the alarm to go off...only went off twice with me shutting the hood. Also i truned up the sensity and nothing happen...
AND where can i find the horn wire?? it saids green/white steering column but i dont see it at all...
so far i go the antenna mount, siren, brain, and shock sensor.
Trommow will be the door and hood trigger with lock and unlock input for the doorss
Problems
-Where do you guys mount the Shock sensor? It seems no matter where i mount it i cant get the alarm to go off...only went off twice with me shutting the hood. Also i truned up the sensity and nothing happen...
AND where can i find the horn wire?? it saids green/white steering column but i dont see it at all...
Last edited by JEXTEL; 04-12-2008 at 07:09 PM.
04-12-2008, 08:29 PM
#33
first off, mounting a shock sensor is my weak point. i've heard that it's good to ziptie it to wire, then i heard to metal. later, i heard it was good to have it ziptied to both, so either movement would set it off. i would wait for the pros to chime in on this though because i'm not that good with it.
-i've never done a horn output. but you plan on doing horn + siren? anyway, audiovox tech sheet is saying green/white (-) at the ignition harness. i don't have access to DEI right now though.
-i've never done a horn output. but you plan on doing horn + siren? anyway, audiovox tech sheet is saying green/white (-) at the ignition harness. i don't have access to DEI right now though.
04-13-2008, 07:20 AM
#35
first off, mounting a shock sensor is my weak point. i've heard that it's good to ziptie it to wire, then i heard to metal. later, i heard it was good to have it ziptied to both, so either movement would set it off. i would wait for the pros to chime in on this though because i'm not that good with it.
-i've never done a horn output. but you plan on doing horn + siren? anyway, audiovox tech sheet is saying green/white (-) at the ignition harness. i don't have access to DEI right now though.
-i've never done a horn output. but you plan on doing horn + siren? anyway, audiovox tech sheet is saying green/white (-) at the ignition harness. i don't have access to DEI right now though.
04-13-2008, 09:54 PM
#37
if programmed for double pulse unlock... The factory alarm should activate with lock and deactivate with unlock which would give you all the factory alarm features ie... horn flashing and headlights flashing when a door is opened + you will have the siren too with the viper.
04-14-2008, 04:02 AM
#38
if programmed for double pulse unlock... The factory alarm should activate with lock and deactivate with unlock which would give you all the factory alarm features ie... horn flashing and headlights flashing when a door is opened + you will have the siren too with the viper.
04-19-2008, 08:36 AM
#39
UPDATE
Its installed but need alittlme more help
-i cant locate the double pulse wire
-which wire from the 5900 goes to the second starter wire
-do i need a relay for the trunk?
-what do i exactly need to remove to get to the tach wire
-where is the factory arm and dis arm wires? i coult only find the signal lights that are the same color
-which wire can i use for the trunk? like if its opened the alarm will go off?
-it seems like the door trigger is not working..i arm the car then reached my hand in my car and unlock the door and the factory alarm goes off then i open the door and the 5900 dont goes off..
Its installed but need alittlme more help
-i cant locate the double pulse wire
-which wire from the 5900 goes to the second starter wire
-do i need a relay for the trunk?
-what do i exactly need to remove to get to the tach wire
-where is the factory arm and dis arm wires? i coult only find the signal lights that are the same color
-which wire can i use for the trunk? like if its opened the alarm will go off?
-it seems like the door trigger is not working..i arm the car then reached my hand in my car and unlock the door and the factory alarm goes off then i open the door and the 5900 dont goes off..
04-19-2008, 09:45 AM
#40
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,671
There is no double pulse wire, you need to double pulse the unlock wire.
Green from the XCRS paired with the first starter wire.
Yes
A panel
There arent any. it arms and disarms with lock and unlock.
Purple/Yellow (smaller) IIRC
Then you have the wrong door trigger. It is Red/White drivers kick.
Green from the XCRS paired with the first starter wire.
Yes
A panel
There arent any. it arms and disarms with lock and unlock.
Purple/Yellow (smaller) IIRC
Then you have the wrong door trigger. It is Red/White drivers kick.