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12" vs 15" FI Q

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Old Jun 24, 2008 | 07:59 PM
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12" vs 15" FI Q

What do you guys suggest?

I have had an Atlas 15 for about 3-4 years now. I think its time to move on. Right now its sitting inside a Ported box, ported to 35 hz. I listen to rap, and I am tempted to try a sealed box ~1.0cu for the 12 or 2.1cu for the 15... If I don't like the sealed box, I will go ported 2.2 cubes at like 30hz

What do you guys think I should do? There is a 20 dollar difference between the 2.

EDIT: The whole reason why I want to upgrade is because the box that I have is huge, and I have no trunk space what so ever. I figured instead of trying to make a new one, just get everything new.

Any one know how much the 12 and 15 weigh?
Old Jun 24, 2008 | 08:08 PM
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Have you tried the Atlas sealed yet?
Old Jun 24, 2008 | 08:12 PM
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No
Old Jun 24, 2008 | 08:44 PM
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Ok. Well if that isn't an option and you want to retain your output as well as have the power to push a Q, get the 15". I would personally like to see a little more internal cf though. If you are limited to that internal volume, go with the 12". You wouldn't be giving the 15" enough room to operate.
Old Jun 24, 2008 | 08:54 PM
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I currently got my 12" Q sealed at 1.0 cf. It gets pretty darn loud being sealed up, and when ported...it'll flex my rear glass and roof!

iirc the 12" is ~32 lbs or so.
Old Jun 25, 2008 | 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by filtor1
Ok. Well if that isn't an option and you want to retain your output as well as have the power to push a Q, get the 15". I would personally like to see a little more internal cf though. If you are limited to that internal volume, go with the 12". You wouldn't be giving the 15" enough room to operate.
Whats a good volume to run the 15 at?
Old Jun 25, 2008 | 10:53 AM
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Sealed I would do 3cf for the 15". After sub displacement that will put you right around the range I have found for them to work optimally.

What kind of power to you have available?
Old Jun 25, 2008 | 01:02 PM
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To the Atlas I have 310 watts.
To the FI I will feed it 1kw
Old Jun 25, 2008 | 01:28 PM
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from their website

ficaraudio.com

Sealed box: 2-2.6 cuft
Ported box: 2.8-4 cuft @ 28-33Hz
Old Jun 25, 2008 | 07:00 PM
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Those are correct. The driver dispacement is not accounted for in those figures though.
Old Jun 25, 2008 | 07:21 PM
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Ok I guess I am going to stick with a 15 again. Now to decide whether to go Sealed or ported.

I may go sealed at first and then go ported...or something like that...
Old Jun 25, 2008 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteA32
Ok I guess I am going to stick with a 15 again. Now to decide whether to go Sealed or ported.

I may go sealed at first and then go ported...or something like that...
sounds good
Old Jun 26, 2008 | 07:38 PM
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As stupid as this sounds, does anyone have a plan for a 3cf box? I need it to fit into a 4th gen, all the way in the back against the rear seats. I will get rid of the torsion bars as well. So height shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Is it bad to mount the amp on the sub box?
Old Jun 26, 2008 | 07:58 PM
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mine are on the box and mine is a 4th gen

Old Jun 26, 2008 | 08:00 PM
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Ok because I swear somewhere I heard you can't do that.
Old Jun 27, 2008 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteA32
Ok because I swear somewhere I heard you can't do that.
There are two schools of thought on the issue of mounting amps to boxes or not. I Have actually never had an amp in my car that wasn't mounted to the box. No issues as of yet. I have only been in the game for 12 years though. So what do I know.
Old Jun 27, 2008 | 03:14 PM
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12 years damn man. Do you have pictures of your current setup?
Old Jun 27, 2008 | 08:20 PM
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filtor.....if there are "two schools" explain the two thought processes. i have my own opinion, but im curious as to what you think about them
Old Jun 27, 2008 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiteA32
12 years damn man. Do you have pictures of your current setup?
There should be enough there for you to check out. The thread is not 100% up to date though as my camera decided it didn't need to work any more before the last reinstallation.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ad.php?t=36899
Old Jun 27, 2008 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sodie14
filtor.....if there are "two schools" explain the two thought processes. i have my own opinion, but im curious as to what you think about them
Honestly it is easy to go either way. Both have merit. You know where I side already.

The "never mount amps on a sub box" crew say that the added vibration from the vibration created on the wall of a subwoofer enclosure will damage the amplifier.

In a poorly constructed box made with sub par materials, I could see how this is an issue. Additionally, it could be an issue with enough drivers to force even a solid enclosure to flex. Few people have the power driver combination to validate this though. I can definitely see the merit and justification in these cases. In these cases I would recommend an amp rack that removes the chance of this happening.

I personally think that an amp securely mounted to the frame of a car has the potential for more violent sudden movement. If you consider a simple pot hole, for example, hit at even a low speed of 45 mph can send several times the amount of force through the chassis of an amp causing more damage that some low level of box flex. Honestly, if your box is flexing to that degree, some redesign is in order.
Old Jun 28, 2008 | 09:35 PM
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What size fuse do I need? I am running 1000 watts RMS.
Old Jun 30, 2008 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by AscendantMax
I currently got my 12" Q sealed at 1.0 cf. It gets pretty darn loud being sealed up, and when ported...it'll flex my rear glass and roof!

iirc the 12" is ~32 lbs or so.

How does the Q sound in the sealed box?

I almost bought one a little while back.
Old Jun 30, 2008 | 01:01 PM
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Hopefully everything gets here by the end of the week, and I can install it on Friday...




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