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Installation Questions (Help Me Please !!)

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Old 11-26-2001, 03:05 PM
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Installation Questions (Help Me Please !!)

I just traded in my 88 Accord (no comments about the Accord please, it was probably the best car I ever owned so far) and picked up a 98 GXE/5 spd/tan with tan interior/50 k miles. In the Accord, I had a blaupunkt honolulu head unit, kenwood 6 x 9's, bazooka subwoofers and amps/crossovers to support all this. I don't have the Bose system just the no name factory with pocket underneath. I want to install all the stuff into this car. My questions are as follows: 1.) Is replacing the rear deck speakers as complicated as described on other web sites. Do you have to remove the rear seat to change the rear deck speakers?? I'm hoping this is for 3rd gen and not 4th gen. 2.) Is replacing the head unit just as complicated. In my Accord I replaced the head unit in 1/2 hour to an hour. This car looks like a 2 day install (especially with my 2 & 3 year old around). I really don't want to scratch anything (I've installed my stereos/speakers/amps/etc. in my last 4 cars so I'm familiar with installs, this one looks tricky). 3.) Is installing tweeters high on the door next to the front vents (this car doesn't have them) an easy job ? (cut hole in door/run wires/make it look pretty with a grill).

Also I am probably going to have a DEI Rattler 800 alarm installed (starter kill/keyless entry/etc.) for $180 (Circuit City). Is there a better alarm for under $200 installed that is available at Circuit City, Best Buy or Tweeter? I need to have starter kill and ketyless entry.

Here's the way I'm leaning: Have Circuit City or Tweeter install the head unit and have them leave the amp wiring exposed so I have easy access to it . I will install the amps, subwoofers and 6 x 9's. The only way this would change is if someone honestly told me that the head unit install is as easy as it was in the Honda (I don't think this is the case. I looked at the directions at the Install Doctor web page (great site) and it looks involved). Then at the same time I can have the alarm installed.

Also, if someone can leave me a quick how to replace the rear deck speakers, it would be greatly appreciated.

Since I've only had the car for 5 days now I'm still learning it. It has been raining on/off in the Northeast for the past several days so I haven't had a chance to "play" with the car yet. Before the Accord, I had a Mustang LX Sedan 5.0. This car doesn't seem to have the same low end acceleration, but it still is pretty quick and so far very impressive.

post replies here or please e-mail me:
christopher.fishbein@ussurg.com

cgfcgf
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Old 11-26-2001, 08:03 PM
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I had a 92 accord before the Max, and I can tell you if you are able to do your stereo in the accord, you can do it in this car. The headunit did look intimidating at first, and it will take you at least 1/2 to 1 hour to remove at first, but the second time you do it, it will be under ten minutes. The directions are long because there are alot of steps, but once you figure it out it will be a snap. As for the rear speakers, I haven't done those yet (although I have done them on a third gen) it looks easy. The bottom part of the seat just comes off and the back cant be too hard to remove. Basicaly nothing is worth having to pay someone else to do it. As for the alarm, I bought me a paging alarm for $180 and installed it myself (fairly easy but time consuming).
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Old 11-26-2001, 08:58 PM
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Above is correct. The dash panel surrounding the headunit mostly pops out. Pop the vent above loose (to left and right of hazard/defrost buttons)with a flat head wraped in old t-shirt or towel. This will reveal the upper screws. Then I think one screw is behind the ash tray and I don't think the one on the other side on bottom is covered.
Bottom of rear seat pops loose with pull tab on each side between seat cushion and carpet. And I think 6 screws hold the back in place. 4 around the armrest hole and two below the cushion. The seat sits in place so well without the screws that I never put mine back in yet. You need to remove the seat back to pop the fiberboard rear deck loose.
 
Old 11-27-2001, 11:51 AM
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Originally posted by jmax
Above is correct. The dash panel surrounding the headunit mostly pops out. Pop the vent above loose (to left and right of hazard/defrost buttons)with a flat head wraped in old t-shirt or towel. This will reveal the upper screws. Then I think one screw is behind the ash tray and I don't think the one on the other side on bottom is covered.
Bottom of rear seat pops loose with pull tab on each side between seat cushion and carpet. And I think 6 screws hold the back in place. 4 around the armrest hole and two below the cushion. The seat sits in place so well without the screws that I never put mine back in yet. You need to remove the seat back to pop the fiberboard rear deck loose.
Thank you for your replies. I still think I'm going to have someone else install the head unit & alarm. My wife and family are looking for Christmas and birthday gifts for me, so why not have them gift the installs (if they want to). If they don't, it looks like I'll be really busy this winter.

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Old 11-27-2001, 12:56 PM
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I wouldnt tackle the alarm. Those can be very tricky to do. Please go to www.maximadriver.com , the How2 section, and ther is an article on basic Maxima stereo installation, and another one on installing an amp. You can do it. It's not hard......
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Old 11-27-2001, 02:29 PM
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PLEASE.... do not pay someone $80 just to install your stereo its too simple. If you say you have some experience SAVE THAT MONEY.






or just do what you want
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Old 11-27-2001, 03:55 PM
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just to let u know that your front and rear speakers are 6 3/4's not 6*9's
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Old 11-27-2001, 09:40 PM
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Originally posted by timby01
just to let u know that your front and rear speakers are 6 3/4's not 6*9's
That's okay, 6x9 will fit. So will 5X7, 8, 10, 12X3. It all depends on how much custom work ou want to do.
 
Old 11-28-2001, 03:38 AM
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Thanks for the info. Yes I saw that they were not 6 x 9 in the rear. The hole should be big enough though to fit my 6 x 9 in there (i'll just drill new mounting holes into the metal. I'm still in shock that I have to remove the rear seat to take a speaker off of the rear deck. All of the above may be easy, (I'm an automation engineer as well, I do much more complicated stuff at work) but I have a 2 and a 3 year old (and a 3rd one due in january) so I only get 1 hr. each day on the weekend and nights (I'm tired) to get all this done by myself. Its not that easy when they are taking screwdrivers and poking everything on the car with them. Thank you all for your responses, they are very helpful. Now I just have to figure out what amps to put where (I'm thinking my 50 watt rms to the rear deck, my other 50 watt rms to my subs and leaving the door speakers being driven by the 25 watts rms the head unit puts out/then I'm thinking of an eq in there).
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