8w7 enclosure build
Subs, enclousure, amps < 110lbs FTW. Got a beed on 2 Apline PDX amps (1000.1 & 150.4) very small footprint to get under 90lbs
8's are becoming very popular for these reasons: weight, RMS handling, and great SQL.
But be warned an 8 will never be stronger then an equally tiered 10 or 12!
8's are for the WOW factor!
Last edited by ButtaMax; Feb 17, 2010 at 06:01 AM.
Go for it brother, (2) 8's = 34lbs of goodness!
Subs, enclousure, amps < 110lbs FTW. Got a beed on 2 Apline PDX amps (1000.1 & 150.4) very small footprint to get under 90lbs
8's are becoming very popular for these reasons: weight, RMS handling, and great SQL.
But be warned an 8 will never be stronger then an equally tiered 10 or 12!
8's are for the WOW factor!
Subs, enclousure, amps < 110lbs FTW. Got a beed on 2 Apline PDX amps (1000.1 & 150.4) very small footprint to get under 90lbs
8's are becoming very popular for these reasons: weight, RMS handling, and great SQL.
But be warned an 8 will never be stronger then an equally tiered 10 or 12!
8's are for the WOW factor!
I kno 8's arent going 2be strong like 12's but if they were able 2hit like them i'll be satisfied. Can those 8inch w7's go in the stock sub location, are they free air subs or is it better 2jus get a box 4em? Also wuts a good amp 2hook those up 2?
NO, if you want to replace the stock 8, the 8w7 is not the sub. JL's work better in sealed and best in ported enclosure IMO.
You need a free air sub like IA flatlyne (search Phxgold) and check his STUPID free air setup, damn thing is insane!
Amps choice is all about the sub, matching subs RMS to the amp.
Also, (2)8w7's are 1.5ohm so having a 1ohm stable amp is a no brainer.
There plenty of good amps out there its all about budget, that should dictate the quality of amp. JL is higher end so I wouldnt use a lesser quality amp to push it.
Several amps you cant go wrong with:
Sundown
JL
Addison
element design
Alpine PDX
TRU
MMat
PPI (bais opinion)

Theres maybe 10-20 more amps guys can/would add to this list, again it all about budget.
I was all set on a (1)Polk 124dvc, then (1)13w7, then (2)10's free air (like PHXgold), then settled on the 8's. Look thru the "show us your trunk" thread and get some ideas! Theres alot of show quality setups there, personally Im not interested in showing my trunk hence the simple box setup..
I have a 2000.
I only have done a few pimp mods: G35 18's, K&N, 5.5 headlights, 6k hids in head & fogs, Illumina/Eibach.
No really go fast mods thats what my CBR1000 is for!
I only have done a few pimp mods: G35 18's, K&N, 5.5 headlights, 6k hids in head & fogs, Illumina/Eibach.
No really go fast mods thats what my CBR1000 is for!
How do the eibach/ illuminas ride? Im thinkin of gettin tien htechs with either illuminas or koni yellows! Would u know where 2find the rsb n fstb? I wanna ride like im floating on air
well buddy boy if you wanna float then Eibach and fo DAYUM sure not htechs is gonna cut it, not even CLOSE!!!
Tien SS coilovers is the way to go, but get ready to drop $2g's.
Goto the suspension thread and read up, NO spring/strut combo will give you that "floating" ride! What I gathered is the best you can get is stock ride but lower stance.
Keep an eye on the classified section rsb's & fstb's pop up all the time..
FYI bro, every mod has been BEAT to death, just do a search and draw your own conclusions! Some people hate Eibach's others swear by them. I like really them, but do I love them, no. The rougher the road the rougher the ride, fairly smooth roads its like riding on glass!
Taking a off ramp @ 60/65mph is like a girl with big ****, NICE!!
I like the g35 18's. Im tryna get my hands on some nissan murano wheels, altima ser's, or the 6th gen se wheels
Illumina/HR is the best riding spring/strut combo but HR springs give you a saggy azz.
Ive been on the look out for the G35 19's, everyone who has them wants a $1000+, dat chit aint gonna happen!
dont you think its kinda odd that a set strut would ride better then an adjustable?
maybe you like you ride softer or firmer how can blues do that for you, just sayin!
I've read the site @ least 10x's never noticed that.
But what I did notice is when I dropped from 4/5 to 3/4 on Illuminas the ride smoothed out considerably! Again ride is purely subjective, nice to you is crappy to me and vice versa.
I can't/dont see anyone choosing blues over illuminas unless they don't have the extra $$
But what I did notice is when I dropped from 4/5 to 3/4 on Illuminas the ride smoothed out considerably! Again ride is purely subjective, nice to you is crappy to me and vice versa.
I can't/dont see anyone choosing blues over illuminas unless they don't have the extra $$
Sorry Butta, dont mean to add a "non pertinant" reply to your thread, but heres my opinion. If youre looking to improve the ride quality of your car (mostly annoying body roll), installing a RSB and LTB/LTBII is where its at. A FSTB tightens up the front end a bit, but I think its mostly for engine bay eye candy. Im sure many will argue the point, but I only noticed a small difference once it was installed. When I first got my Maxima, I didnt have tons of money to throw to mods so I had to do things step by step, however it did allow me to notice all the subtle changes each mod added. Again, just my $0.02, take it how you want.
Sorry Butta, dont mean to add a "non pertinant" reply to your thread, but heres my opinion. If youre looking to improve the ride quality of your car (mostly annoying body roll), installing a RSB and LTB/LTBII is where its at. A FSTB tightens up the front end a bit, but I think its mostly for engine bay eye candy. Im sure many will argue the point, but I only noticed a small difference once it was installed. When I first got my Maxima, I didnt have tons of money to throw to mods so I had to do things step by step, however it did allow me to notice all the subtle changes each mod added. Again, just my $0.02, take it how you want.
I found my Stillen RSB in the classified section. There is currently one for sale right now. He wants a grip for it, but its cheaper than new...
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...0-shipped.html
Here's pics in this F/S thread, but its already sold
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...95-2003-a.html
If not, there are other brands that do the same job, however their design uses bushings that have to be replaced sooner or later and I didnt want to mess with that. As far as the LTB, I picked stage I for 2 reasons:
1) Stage I is cheaper and I was on a budget at the time.
2) After lots of research, which you can still find, I found that many members that purchased Stage II had difficulties installing it. If you have headers installed, Stage II may not even be a choice as they do not allow enough clearance.
http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...pressions.html
http://www.blehmco.com/suspension.htm
Look into the Suspension section and read up as there is a thread concerning the Blemco LTB(s). Matt Blemco designed and fabricated LTB(s) a while back but sold the company several years ago. They can still be purchased from the current company owner, but Im not sure what all they have in stock. I got lucky and found mine new from a member that purchased, but hadn't installed it. I have had mine installed for several years now and it made a HUGE difference is my ride. Im more about go than show. After installing FSTB, RSB and LTB (in that order) my ride slowly went from feeling like a boat to riding on rails. Also, fyi, Im on stock struts with H-Tech springs and the ride is still nice. The stiffness has deminished through the years, but thats because I need to replace the struts. When I do so, they will be Illuminas. I didnt know Koni Yellows directly bolted up without modifying them. Not to say that they hadn't come out with a new design, I just never kept up with it since I wasnt in the market to purchase new struts til my stocks go bad. As far as Blues are concerned, I thought they were OEM replacements, but dont take my word on it. I'll probably keep the H-Techs as I have plenty of other things to spend my money on than to replace the springs (lots has changed, got married, got a mortgage and my wife and I have other expensive "hobbies".) I considered Eibach springs, but didnt want a saggy azz, but from personal experience (my old neighbor has them installed on his 6th gen, theyre nice and stiff. If you're looking to fill the trunk with a box, which I assume you are since you showed interest in this particular thread already, that will magnify the amount your rear will sag if you go with Eibachs. I found slightly used H-Tech springs in the classified section and got them delivered to the door for next to nothing. Good luck with your decisions.
Again, sorry for whorring up your thread "Butta". When it gets warm out and I get a chance to polish up my ride, Id like to meet up and see whats you gots. And DAMNNNN, can we get a freakin break from this bullchit azz cold weather?!?!?! Im done with winter weather SONNNN!!!
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...0-shipped.html
Here's pics in this F/S thread, but its already sold
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...95-2003-a.html
If not, there are other brands that do the same job, however their design uses bushings that have to be replaced sooner or later and I didnt want to mess with that. As far as the LTB, I picked stage I for 2 reasons:
1) Stage I is cheaper and I was on a budget at the time.
2) After lots of research, which you can still find, I found that many members that purchased Stage II had difficulties installing it. If you have headers installed, Stage II may not even be a choice as they do not allow enough clearance.
http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...pressions.html
http://www.blehmco.com/suspension.htm
Look into the Suspension section and read up as there is a thread concerning the Blemco LTB(s). Matt Blemco designed and fabricated LTB(s) a while back but sold the company several years ago. They can still be purchased from the current company owner, but Im not sure what all they have in stock. I got lucky and found mine new from a member that purchased, but hadn't installed it. I have had mine installed for several years now and it made a HUGE difference is my ride. Im more about go than show. After installing FSTB, RSB and LTB (in that order) my ride slowly went from feeling like a boat to riding on rails. Also, fyi, Im on stock struts with H-Tech springs and the ride is still nice. The stiffness has deminished through the years, but thats because I need to replace the struts. When I do so, they will be Illuminas. I didnt know Koni Yellows directly bolted up without modifying them. Not to say that they hadn't come out with a new design, I just never kept up with it since I wasnt in the market to purchase new struts til my stocks go bad. As far as Blues are concerned, I thought they were OEM replacements, but dont take my word on it. I'll probably keep the H-Techs as I have plenty of other things to spend my money on than to replace the springs (lots has changed, got married, got a mortgage and my wife and I have other expensive "hobbies".) I considered Eibach springs, but didnt want a saggy azz, but from personal experience (my old neighbor has them installed on his 6th gen, theyre nice and stiff. If you're looking to fill the trunk with a box, which I assume you are since you showed interest in this particular thread already, that will magnify the amount your rear will sag if you go with Eibachs. I found slightly used H-Tech springs in the classified section and got them delivered to the door for next to nothing. Good luck with your decisions.
Again, sorry for whorring up your thread "Butta". When it gets warm out and I get a chance to polish up my ride, Id like to meet up and see whats you gots. And DAMNNNN, can we get a freakin break from this bullchit azz cold weather?!?!?! Im done with winter weather SONNNN!!!
Ay man aint no thang homie!!!
Good info is good info!!
It already turned from stereo to suspension 10 posts ago "LOL" but no question the LTB/RBS work.
Mizik: my Max is a auto and autos sit lower then manuals, my rear my sag 1/2' MAYBE, thats with 65lbs of speaker and box. I believe the sag is more of an illusion then anything b/z of the wheel well difference from front to back.
I was all set on getting HTechs till I PM'd like 5 orgers with them and they gave less the steller reviews on the ride, AGAIN ride is purely subjective but that was enough for me to shy away!
I asked them several questions too, driving habits, speaker box, GF, roads, and 4 passengers. Everything about HTechs were negative EXCEPT looks, the drop was perfect. The only neagtives I got on the Eibachs was the azz sags a lill (very lill), but not enough to not have them.
spring/strut has been beatin into the ground coilovers are they way to go for the best ride and ride height.
Im happy with my Eibach/Illuminas
Good info is good info!!
It already turned from stereo to suspension 10 posts ago "LOL" but no question the LTB/RBS work.
Mizik: my Max is a auto and autos sit lower then manuals, my rear my sag 1/2' MAYBE, thats with 65lbs of speaker and box. I believe the sag is more of an illusion then anything b/z of the wheel well difference from front to back.
I was all set on getting HTechs till I PM'd like 5 orgers with them and they gave less the steller reviews on the ride, AGAIN ride is purely subjective but that was enough for me to shy away!
I asked them several questions too, driving habits, speaker box, GF, roads, and 4 passengers. Everything about HTechs were negative EXCEPT looks, the drop was perfect. The only neagtives I got on the Eibachs was the azz sags a lill (very lill), but not enough to not have them.
spring/strut has been beatin into the ground coilovers are they way to go for the best ride and ride height.
Im happy with my Eibach/Illuminas
Last edited by ButtaMax; Feb 19, 2010 at 03:42 PM.
Great info thnx again. Yea i seen koni yellows on tirerack.com n they said i wpuld have 2do very lil cutting 2the top i believe, my boy has a shop so he'll be the 1installing everything. Im goin 2get konis all around n ride on h-r springs in the front 4now n see how it rides. I heard h-r n eibach have the best ride but im gonna find out 4myself. Im not gonna get a box 4another month or so n when i do its gonna be 2 12inch kicker l7's wit a mtx 3,000 watt amp i believe(sonicelectronix.com). Im also gettin an eclipse navi/dvd h/u with eminence mids in all 4doors with either sum eminence tweets or sumthin better with a 1,800watt amp 2them.
Great info thnx again. Yea i seen koni yellows on tirerack.com n they said i wpuld have 2do very lil cutting 2the top i believe, my boy has a shop so he'll be the 1installing everything. Im goin 2get konis all around n ride on h-r springs in the front 4now n see how it rides. I heard h-r n eibach have the best ride but im gonna find out 4myself. Im not gonna get a box 4another month or so n when i do its gonna be 2 12inch kicker l7's wit a mtx 3,000 watt amp i believe(sonicelectronix.com). Im also gettin an eclipse navi/dvd h/u with eminence mids in all 4doors with either sum eminence tweets or sumthin better with a 1,800watt amp 2them.

I have to run but Ill be back later with a full response..
Lol wut? Im an audiophile n i wanna be LOUD n CLEAR. I live in tampa so pretty much every1 with a system has horns n tweets everywhere. I would get compenents all around buti havent seen anything i would like other than hertz audio components n there kinda pricey. Im gettin everything thing audio 4a steal deal.
5000 watts for (2) 12's and a pair of comps? REALLY!!!!
Ay man, Im no audio expert but I know if you put 3k watts to (2) Kicker 12's your gonna blow up, period! And 1800watts to mids/hi's, dude whos advising you on this system?
Did this person explain 1)the strain on your electrial, 2) the need for maybe 2 batteries, 3)a high output alt, 4) 2/3 runs of 0 guage ground & power?
Another thing I know is the term "audiophile" and Kicker/MTX/eminence should never be mentioned in the same sentence! One have nothing to do with the other.
Before you run out or get online and start spending unnecessary $$ on crap, get on a car audio forum and read and learn b/c your about to throw good money after bad!
Maxima.org has more then there fair share of audio guys, PM one of these guys they'll get you right or at the very least the right direction.
Phxgold
Pearl96Max
nismos14
You can thank me lata!

Ay man, Im no audio expert but I know if you put 3k watts to (2) Kicker 12's your gonna blow up, period! And 1800watts to mids/hi's, dude whos advising you on this system?
Did this person explain 1)the strain on your electrial, 2) the need for maybe 2 batteries, 3)a high output alt, 4) 2/3 runs of 0 guage ground & power?
Another thing I know is the term "audiophile" and Kicker/MTX/eminence should never be mentioned in the same sentence! One have nothing to do with the other.
Before you run out or get online and start spending unnecessary $$ on crap, get on a car audio forum and read and learn b/c your about to throw good money after bad!
Maxima.org has more then there fair share of audio guys, PM one of these guys they'll get you right or at the very least the right direction.
Phxgold
Pearl96Max
nismos14
You can thank me lata!
Last edited by ButtaMax; Feb 21, 2010 at 08:57 AM.
5000 watts for (2) 12's and a pair of comps? REALLY!!!!
Ay man, Im no audio expert but I know if you put 3k watts to (2) Kicker 12's your gonna blow up, period! And 1800watts to mids/hi's, dude whos advising you on this system?
Did this person explain 1)the strain on your electrial, 2) the need for maybe 2 batteries, 3)a high output alt, 4) 2/3 runs of 0 guage ground & power?
Another thing I know is the term "audiophile" and Kicker/MTX/eminence should never be mentioned in the same sentence! One have nothing to do with the other.
Before you run out or get online and start spending unnecessary $$ on crap, get on a car audio forum and read and learn b/c your about to throw good money after bad!
Maxima.org has more then there fair share of audio guys, PM one of these guys they'll get you right or at the very least the right direction.
Phxgold
Pearl96Max
nismos14
You can thank me lata!

Ay man, Im no audio expert but I know if you put 3k watts to (2) Kicker 12's your gonna blow up, period! And 1800watts to mids/hi's, dude whos advising you on this system?
Did this person explain 1)the strain on your electrial, 2) the need for maybe 2 batteries, 3)a high output alt, 4) 2/3 runs of 0 guage ground & power?
Another thing I know is the term "audiophile" and Kicker/MTX/eminence should never be mentioned in the same sentence! One have nothing to do with the other.
Before you run out or get online and start spending unnecessary $$ on crap, get on a car audio forum and read and learn b/c your about to throw good money after bad!
Maxima.org has more then there fair share of audio guys, PM one of these guys they'll get you right or at the very least the right direction.
Phxgold
Pearl96Max
nismos14
You can thank me lata!

hey...
sorry it took me awhile 2respond but i have been busy. Thnx 4 all the help guys n as i read this i re thought n planned my system, better this time imo. im goin with either a eclipse or pioneer dvd/navi hu, either hertz or focal comps in all 4doors, a 12inch w7 in the jl enclosure, either the 3000/1 ppi mono block or a 3500watt boss amp, and a ppi 4channel amp(the same 4channel u have buttamax). is this a better setup?
o yea, i have a yellow top optima battery already
Again bro, Im no expert!
I would just buy quality equipment, thats my main point.. What you gonna spend on the rear speakers use that cash and buy the best comps you can afford (dont worry about the rear, NOW) leave that for last you can even run stockers off the radio till your ready to upgrade.
Im no big lover of any brand, with that said I do have 2 PPI amps, reason being I got both for a hell of a deal ($300) theres stupid deals to be had on used high end equipment caraudio.com.
Frankly, the PP's are just too big, you can get smaller footprints with similar output but again the price was PERFECT.
Its all about budget and shopping prices man, and also having an idea what you wanna sound like. Its not the radio, speakers, amps thats gonna get you, its the hidden cost of install, wiring, deadening that will surprise you!
Im about $400+ just in deadening my doors and rear deck and havent even touched my trunk.
Its all about doing it ONCE RIGHT!!!
As I type this theres a dude in the audio for sale sections selling DLS 3ways NEW IN BOX for $300, you would have to be a fool or broke not to jump on these, IM BROKE!!
I would just buy quality equipment, thats my main point.. What you gonna spend on the rear speakers use that cash and buy the best comps you can afford (dont worry about the rear, NOW) leave that for last you can even run stockers off the radio till your ready to upgrade.
Im no big lover of any brand, with that said I do have 2 PPI amps, reason being I got both for a hell of a deal ($300) theres stupid deals to be had on used high end equipment caraudio.com.
Frankly, the PP's are just too big, you can get smaller footprints with similar output but again the price was PERFECT.
Its all about budget and shopping prices man, and also having an idea what you wanna sound like. Its not the radio, speakers, amps thats gonna get you, its the hidden cost of install, wiring, deadening that will surprise you!
Im about $400+ just in deadening my doors and rear deck and havent even touched my trunk.
Its all about doing it ONCE RIGHT!!!
As I type this theres a dude in the audio for sale sections selling DLS 3ways NEW IN BOX for $300, you would have to be a fool or broke not to jump on these, IM BROKE!!
Last edited by ButtaMax; Mar 1, 2010 at 08:17 PM.
Again bro, Im no expert!
I would just buy quality equipment, thats my main point.. What you gonna spend on the rear speakers use that cash and buy the best comps you can afford (dont worry about the rear, NOW) leave that for last you can even run stockers off the radio till your ready to upgrade.
Im no big lover of any brand, with that said I do have 2 PPI amps, reason being I got both for a hell of a deal ($300) theres stupid deals to be had on used high end equipment caraudio.com.
Frankly, the PP's are just too big, you can get smaller footprints with similar output but again the price was PERFECT.
Its all about budget and shopping prices man, and also having an idea what you wanna sound like. Its not the radio, speakers, amps thats gonna get you, its the hidden cost of install, wiring, deadening that will surprise you!
Im about $400+ just in deadening my doors and rear deck and havent even touched my trunk.
Its all about doing it ONCE RIGHT!!!
As I type this theres a dude in the audio for sale sections selling DLS 3ways NEW IN BOX for $300, you would have to be a fool or broke not to jump on these, IM BROKE!!
I would just buy quality equipment, thats my main point.. What you gonna spend on the rear speakers use that cash and buy the best comps you can afford (dont worry about the rear, NOW) leave that for last you can even run stockers off the radio till your ready to upgrade.
Im no big lover of any brand, with that said I do have 2 PPI amps, reason being I got both for a hell of a deal ($300) theres stupid deals to be had on used high end equipment caraudio.com.
Frankly, the PP's are just too big, you can get smaller footprints with similar output but again the price was PERFECT.
Its all about budget and shopping prices man, and also having an idea what you wanna sound like. Its not the radio, speakers, amps thats gonna get you, its the hidden cost of install, wiring, deadening that will surprise you!
Im about $400+ just in deadening my doors and rear deck and havent even touched my trunk.
Its all about doing it ONCE RIGHT!!!
As I type this theres a dude in the audio for sale sections selling DLS 3ways NEW IN BOX for $300, you would have to be a fool or broke not to jump on these, IM BROKE!!
yea im broke as well...
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