Will an OEM alternator work for my system?
#1
Will an OEM alternator work for my system?
1995 gxe with 3.5 swap. installed pioneer HU with sony xplod driving two 10" pioneers in ported box. Alternator died yesterday, replaced with pos advance auto and it died today. OEM alt had 155K, and I know that cheap parts are crap but since this is my dd and stealer had no oem in stock, I had no choice. I ordered OEM from stealership today.
My question: Will I need to get a more powerful than OEM to run this system, i've read plenty of posts from guys who are running a lot more than this with OEM alternators.
My question: Will I need to get a more powerful than OEM to run this system, i've read plenty of posts from guys who are running a lot more than this with OEM alternators.
#5
Agreed. I've had batteries last 7 years, I've also had one that died in under 2. Warrantee covered replacement, but still a drag to be stranded...
#8
I would definately swap out the ALT for a high performance one. IDK where you can find one but I know I dim hard as h311 when my single 10 hits. Only running 500W RMS on my amp and its ripping out 30 amps at 1500W Max my Sub is a Soundstream and RMS is at 800W. Underpowered but not wanting to upgrade amp since my alt can't handle it anyways.
You have 2 subs and i have no idea how many watts you're going to push, but stock alternators are built to run the minimum amount of Amps for a specific car so no room for addons there.
You have 2 subs and i have no idea how many watts you're going to push, but stock alternators are built to run the minimum amount of Amps for a specific car so no room for addons there.
#9
test
check your grounds for your battery and clean if necessary baking soda and water works fine and do a static voltage test with the car running with and without your system on just take a voltmeter red to red blk to blk on the battery terminals and post back with results oem alternators run at 80% so as not to overheat oem alternator should support your system static voltage during the test should not fall below 13 volts
#10
I would definately swap out the ALT for a high performance one. IDK where you can find one but I know I dim hard as h311 when my single 10 hits. Only running 500W RMS on my amp and its ripping out 30 amps at 1500W Max my Sub is a Soundstream and RMS is at 800W. Underpowered but not wanting to upgrade amp since my alt can't handle it anyways.
You have 2 subs and i have no idea how many watts you're going to push, but stock alternators are built to run the minimum amount of Amps for a specific car so no room for addons there.
You have 2 subs and i have no idea how many watts you're going to push, but stock alternators are built to run the minimum amount of Amps for a specific car so no room for addons there.
id recommend the big 3, as well as ensuring you have a good connection with zero corrosion at your terminals. shouldnt dim at 500. not bad.
#11
Im still running my stocker and i was running over 5k. Personally i say go for it if you can, but it isnt a necessity. It will increase the longevity of the alt, but you can make it if your strapped lol.
id recommend the big 3, as well as ensuring you have a good connection with zero corrosion at your terminals. shouldnt dim at 500. not bad.
id recommend the big 3, as well as ensuring you have a good connection with zero corrosion at your terminals. shouldnt dim at 500. not bad.
but yes, i would also upgrade the big 3. 500 watts should not dim the lights if your electrical is in good working order. my lights never dim and i'm running two large amps.
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