2012 maxima alternator issue?
#1
2012 maxima alternator issue?
2012 sv-sport maxima bought new has 41,000 miles
maintenence always on time. everything kept up like filters/oil changes, to yellow top optima put in at 38,000.
when in idle at redlight with AC on LOW with radio OFF, feel liks it shutters and goes on again as if losing power. (rpm drop) when i use the window up/down while at the light it gets worse, rmp drops then goes up again a little harder.
when ac off doesnt do as much...
i do have a treo sub and sony amp but i tuned it pretty much off bc of scared electrical issues. when car was brand new it didnt feel brand new i supose even from outside it sounded funny like fan turning on all early once AC is on and driving.
any body replace your alternator to 240amp+ or have any recommendations as to what company to go with / replace pullies + alternator or any suggestions will b greatly appreciated.
im getting to the point of wanting to trade in -.- but i love my car !! help
maintenence always on time. everything kept up like filters/oil changes, to yellow top optima put in at 38,000.
when in idle at redlight with AC on LOW with radio OFF, feel liks it shutters and goes on again as if losing power. (rpm drop) when i use the window up/down while at the light it gets worse, rmp drops then goes up again a little harder.
when ac off doesnt do as much...
i do have a treo sub and sony amp but i tuned it pretty much off bc of scared electrical issues. when car was brand new it didnt feel brand new i supose even from outside it sounded funny like fan turning on all early once AC is on and driving.
any body replace your alternator to 240amp+ or have any recommendations as to what company to go with / replace pullies + alternator or any suggestions will b greatly appreciated.
im getting to the point of wanting to trade in -.- but i love my car !! help
#3
Yah I took my car in, they said it might be transmission tune-up for $280. I'm sure that's a good idea to get at this point but do not think it's the issue...
(we could do the cvt Drain and Fill for about 80 , but I hear there's two parts in the cvt to D/F ? Accessible one , then internal+ filter? Any way diff post )
Alternator in my car 140 amp I believe and when radio ON+ A.C off its fine, but with A.C on is badd.. I'm sure cars all lack power but not feel and sound like sh$@ with a.c. Just wanna here if
Yall have used a better alternator and have had success
(we could do the cvt Drain and Fill for about 80 , but I hear there's two parts in the cvt to D/F ? Accessible one , then internal+ filter? Any way diff post )
Alternator in my car 140 amp I believe and when radio ON+ A.C off its fine, but with A.C on is badd.. I'm sure cars all lack power but not feel and sound like sh$@ with a.c. Just wanna here if
Yall have used a better alternator and have had success
#4
Here, a drain & fill is around $160...no need for a flush. What tune up? If your having issues that require a "tune up" they should cover the cost
I'm running two amps that can produce 1,200 watts RMS in my stereo system. The stock alternator works fine with A/C on or off. I will be adding a third amp pretty soon, reconfigure my setup, & will be pushing a little over 1,600 watts RMS. I still don't see a need to change out the stock alternator.
I'm running two amps that can produce 1,200 watts RMS in my stereo system. The stock alternator works fine with A/C on or off. I will be adding a third amp pretty soon, reconfigure my setup, & will be pushing a little over 1,600 watts RMS. I still don't see a need to change out the stock alternator.
#5
Here, a drain & fill is around $160...no need for a flush. What tune up? If your having issues that require a "tune up" they should cover the cost
I'm running two amps that can produce 1,200 watts RMS in my stereo system. The stock alternator works fine with A/C on or off. I will be adding a third amp pretty soon, reconfigure my setup, & will be pushing a little over 1,600 watts RMS. I still don't see a need to change out the stock alternator.
I'm running two amps that can produce 1,200 watts RMS in my stereo system. The stock alternator works fine with A/C on or off. I will be adding a third amp pretty soon, reconfigure my setup, & will be pushing a little over 1,600 watts RMS. I still don't see a need to change out the stock alternator.
The car aint broke so nissan says its maintenance plus my extened warranty kicks in at 60k, mfg waranty expired at this n that blah blaa blah, regardless maxima is a good car just might have some stock cheap parts (battery / alternator )
my sytem is prety basic it doesnt have to do with that bc it happened pre - sub,(crappy idling with ac especially after 30min + driving) it is the simple things like A/C and navigation and bose stereo that the alternator is having issues with im assuming. unless it could b tension or belt issue..
#7
yup car was tested just before new battery was put in. results were battery hella low and alternator was" just right" but that the battery might have been the issue with boggy feeling. but either the yellow optima is crap or car still feels weird. going to buy alternator this weekend and get it over with . any news with what brand and or previous history with H/O ALT greatly appreciated from anyone with experience
#8
Just wanted to see if you ever fixed this problem. Got a new alternator? What's the deaaal?
I had a ton of problems with a 2011 Altima when I installed a 1400w amp and 2 10's. Replaced 2 batteries. Had the thing checked multiple times at different shops. They could never figure what my problem was... but that problem turned into a 2014 Maxima, soooo...
But please, share if you've made any progress.
I had a ton of problems with a 2011 Altima when I installed a 1400w amp and 2 10's. Replaced 2 batteries. Had the thing checked multiple times at different shops. They could never figure what my problem was... but that problem turned into a 2014 Maxima, soooo...
But please, share if you've made any progress.
#9
Just wanted to see if you ever fixed this problem. Got a new alternator? What's the deaaal?
I had a ton of problems with a 2011 Altima when I installed a 1400w amp and 2 10's. Replaced 2 batteries. Had the thing checked multiple times at different shops. They could never figure what my problem was... but that problem turned into a 2014 Maxima, soooo...
But please, share if you've made any progress.
I had a ton of problems with a 2011 Altima when I installed a 1400w amp and 2 10's. Replaced 2 batteries. Had the thing checked multiple times at different shops. They could never figure what my problem was... but that problem turned into a 2014 Maxima, soooo...
But please, share if you've made any progress.
NO PROGESS AS OF YET - maybe this weekend - the main problem is when it gets really HOT out, and i have my A/C running and i come to a complete stop, car idles up and down and sounds weird. its getting worse. this all was happening since bought new but dealer swares it was normal - progressivly its getting worse - the **** doesnt happen every day just when ive been in stop n go traffic with a/c on, or its hot and im just driving around town.
I dont think it has to do with subs/amp - alternator tests ok and i just put new battery in.
if it was alternator i believe i would have more issues with starting car or power drain - but that doesnt happen.
i wish i can just pop out the SPARK PLUGS to check b/c i heave a fealing it could b dirty plugs even tho i only go 42k or so...
SO I MIGHT REPLACE PLUGS FIRST??? BUT IM NOT SURE!!! SOMEONE HELP!!! =)
#10
Update
i think its the a/c compressor or something to do with the belts that connect everything - it sonds like it engages on and off frequently and is having trouble just surging on and off?
Any ideas
i think its the a/c compressor or something to do with the belts that connect everything - it sonds like it engages on and off frequently and is having trouble just surging on and off?
Any ideas
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