vybz05

Hey guys,
I am currently looking in to buying an Arc Audio KS 900.6 and was wondering if anyone has had any personal experience with this amp running their whole system. The specs @ 4ohm are 60x4 and 550x1. Has anyone ran it in this configuration? I feel that the 60 watts going to all four may be a bit low, especially since the components I want to get are a pair of Hertz that run around 100 RMS. I was thinking to ditch the rear channel for now and run it bridged @ 4ohm 125x2 and 1x550 for the sub. Any thoughts?

Advanced Microprocessor control system
Code Based flashing diagnostics for faster trouble shooting
Optional center channel
2/4/5-6 channel input options and source selection switches
Block style terminations
12dB butterworth crossovers (all channels)
Front + Rear Channels (High pass and Full Range)
Sub + Sub Bridged on channel 5+6 (Full Range and Low Pass only)
Center Channel #6 (Full Range and high pass only)

Power output RMS @ 4 ohms: 4 x 60 watts
Power output RMS @ 2 ohms: 4 x 100 watts
Power output RMS @ 4 ohms (Sub Channels only): 2 x 155 watts
Power output bridged @ 4 ohms 2x120 watts: 2 x 120 watts
Power output bridged @ 4 ohms (Sub Channels only): 1 x 550 watts
Transient Distortion: < .01% @ 4 ohms
Frequency Response: 20Hz - 20 KHz
Signal to Noise Ratio: >77dB
Bass Boost: +15dB @ 45Hz
Crossover (Butterworth): 55Hz-5.5KHz var - 12dB
Fuse: 25A x 4
Size: 19 1/2"(L) w 8.0"(W) x 2 3/8" (H)

13r1an

iTrader: (1)

To revive an entirely too-old-to-be-useful-to-the-OP thread....

That amp rocks.

I'm assuming you know what you're doing when you're looking at protected product lines like Arc Audio and Audisson/Hertz. It's hard to go wrong with anything from either of these manufacturers. The KS900.6 is a powerhouse though, and is a very acceptable all-in-one solution for most customers.

Is 60Wx4 enough for you? That depends on your musical preferences and sonic objectives of the system. When designed as a whole, you can maximize each individual component's potential. Personally, I do not ever install rear speakers, so I would either bridge the amp to drive more power to the front or, more ideally, run active (bypass passive crossovers) and have a dedicated channel to each tweeter and woofer. This is assuming you're doing components, of course. And if you're doing coaxials instead of components.... um, well then I have nothing nice to say.