-1.5 camber isn't much at all, not nearly enough for autox especially when -1.0 is still within spec (A32 at least). For cornering you need -2.0 to -3.5 depending on RSB and springs. You could run -1.5 to start and not notice any wear whatsoever. Maybe start with zero toe to help turn in and fight the toe gain - that's just out of spec and shouldn't cause any undo wear (I'm running 1/8" to 1/4" toe out and haven't seen any wear myself)

Hmmm.. I'm starting to get a little lost...
What would you guys reccomend I set my camber/toe to??? ( in numbers so I could know what to tell the allignment guy)
I do lots of spirited driving, and what to start doing a few HPDE driving courses, and then slowly get into SCCA stuff etc....
I really want to get the best performing setup I can get with putting minimal extra wear on my tires... I also just bought Traction Bars from JClaw... I'm also gonna take a look at all the bushings this weekend when I raise the car and adjust the preload on the D2's a little bit (Putting a tad more pre-load on them)...

Thanks in advance!

Mike

You do understand that adjusting preload (without scales) changes the balance and handling of the car left/right front/back right?

Yeah...
I'm going to do it evenly...
Using a very fine tape measure, etc...
Hopefully here in about 3 weeks i'll take it to get corner balanced, etc...
but for now this'll do

Update on my 06 Set Up
Koni Yellows Front and Rear
Progress Springs 1.7" Drop
FSTB,RSB,RSTB
42/40 Will be Pressures of choice to Start
Yokohama Advans A046 235/45/17 F.....Kumho 711s 235/45/17 R until Azenis in mid May
300zx Calipers and 12.6" Rotors with Hawk HP Pads

irish...what class are you running? i ran sts last month and i really shouldn't have been in that class. I am on 245/40-18s and same struts+vogtlands...mostly the same mods as you but i have not installed the ltb yet...maybe tonight!

I run in DSP (D Street Prepared) usually, but am also legal in STX...In this area, STX is stacked with very fast cars, so I run DSP where I'm a bit more competitive....

1)Boss Chen coilovers [30 front 30 rear] springs: 8kg/cm front 6kg/cm rear
2)ride height: 26" front, 25 3/4" rear (similar to Progress springs)
3)FSTB, stage 1 LTB, RSB
4)43.5/44
5) camber: -1.1, -0.7 (not adjustable) toe: 0
6) Toyo Proxes 4 225/50-17

A few small changes:

tire pressure: 43 front, 47 rear
front shocks are set to 29

The car still does not turn-in as well as I want it to, but now the car can be easily rotated by doing "faint" maneuver even in the tightest hairpins.

ive noticed that alot of you are not using aftermarket Front sway bars. What is the reason....I ask because on my last car it was common knowlege that the after market front sway bar induced understeer. I have not been arount the maxima community long enough to discover the common things to set your suspension up for auto x, and not just buy a bunch of crap because someone says it is good.....ricers....gota luv em right?

The stock front bar is pretty good as is. Nobody in the aftermarket that I know ever developed a 4th/5th gen bar. I for one run no FSB which helps steady state cornering and prevents wheelspin but at the sacrifice of slaloms and quick transitions.

maybe i should do that....STX has sucks..damn STis

Resurecting old threads again, nice. Made a similar post in the advanced handling section, but what exactly is adjustable from the factory on the 4th gen max? I'm going for an alignment soon, and i'd like a nice performance setup, but not too familiar with the max's suspension.

heres my other post for backup
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=517739

edit: nm figured it out myself.

Update for the 2007 season. Think I'm finding something I'm beginning to like again (as was 2003). Car is definately rotating better with stiffer rear springs.

1. Cattman/Progress Gen3 coilovers - re-valved stiffer
2. Hypercoil 600lb 11" front, Hypercoil 550lb 10" rear - 3/4" rake
3. FSTB, RSTB, stock FSw, Stillen knockoff RSw, Blemco LTB1 (removed), lots of poly bush
4. 44/40 on Z212's, 42/32 on RE-01's wet, TBD dry
5. -2.0 deg camb, 1/8" total toeout, +3.5deg cast
6. was stagger Hankook f225/45/16 Z212's, r205/55/16 H405
now 225/45/17 Bridgestone RE-01R's all around on 7.5" rims

Mark, 2005 SE, stick, NA
Ko-2, AG-6
Progress
FSTB, Alti Se-R Sway bar, Progress RSB
F45-47, R 41
about -1.5
265 ZR35 18 Dunlop

bejay, you are using almost an identical setup to me now (even the alignment is extremely similar, -2.3 degree neg camber, 1/8" toe out, zero rear toe, 3.5 deg caster, progress/cattman gen 3 coilovers revalved stiffer rear but with the stock springs [450/350] for now), except I have 5th gen so I am a good deal heavier I am sure...;( but I do have the rear beam zero toe with the poly trailing arm bushings and stage 2 subframe connectors which help quite a bit...so take that! lol j/k

by the way, how are those re-01r's....they are expensive and new so I decided to wait till there were more opinions out there...

also, if you want to get rid of those r compounds you probably having laying around, you can sell them on my new site:
http://www.TheTireXchange.com
(sorry about the shameful plug, but I always remember how you have tons of r compounds you sell every few months on here, so I figure why not target more buyers since my site is only targeted at autocross/road racers mostly--soon to be advertising in GRM and the like)

Thanks for the reminder - I'll definately put stuff up there. Not sure what you consider expensive but I got mine for $400 a set after rebates. The RE-01R's are argueably the fastest tire out there. 70% of the 180+ ST drivers at Topeka ran em last week. Yokahama was strong too but talk about $$. They definately have some stick and I'm finding new limits on the car with them. PM me and I'll get you any details.

$400? why so cheap? how much was the rebate? were they from tirerack....?

PM sent to stay on topic.

David L., 2000, Auto, NA
1. Illumina 5 fronts, 5 rears
2. Eibachs
3. SFC, FSTB, RSTB, RSB (hope to get a FTB soon from matt)
4. 42, 32
5. -1.5 degrees, zero toe
6. 17 x 9 FN10R-c rims, on 255 Nexens (these tires grip to no end)

I've raced road course before in presetup cars for fun when I was younger, now I am on my own doing my own car. Any advice anyone could give me for a first timer in autocross with my setup?

you should be running way more pressure in the rear tires to help rotation, as you get more experienced, you will learn that you can never get your maxima to rotate enough...you may also want to stiffen the rear struts to full or almost full stiff...also, try a little toe out in the front next time you get an alignment (you won't like the dead/dull steering feel on the street, but it will pay off on reducing corner entry push/understeer)

Since I'm going to the SCCA auto-x school levels 1+2 this weekend, I thought I would post my setup

Nick Drymalski, 1996 I30 5M with DEK, NA
1. Trimmed Koni Yellows (1.5, 1.5)
2. Eibach
3. FSTB, SFCs 1+2, LTB 1+2, traction bars, ES bushings
4. I'm thinking 44/40
5. -1.4* at all times
6. 235/45/17 Pirelli P Zero M&S (all season:thumbsdow)

I'm debating about getting a RSB....thoughts?


2010 update!!

I bought a RSB, I got rid of the traction bars, and I got some Michelin Pilot Sport PS2s :)
Oh and installed an aluminum front bumper support ;)
And I just ordered the OEM camber/caster plates!

Yep, get one - Koni yellow's aren't THAT stiff and it'll help. Heck throw it on before the school and take a sweeper a few times. Disconnect it and redo. Compare yourself and decide.

Our season just ended this past Sunday. I've only done two events in the Max, but plan to take it pretty serious next season. This year I just did a "run what you brung" type of deal, didn't fiddle with pressures just went out and had fun.

Setup:

JIC Coilovers
Progress RSB
Otto FSTB
Moog Tie-rod endlinks, w/ES bushings
ES sway bar bushings
235/40/18 Nankang NSII, 30psi all the way around.

First event I ran with the car I had 3/4 tank of gas, the car understeered in sharp corners, but was fairly neutral through out the course. This past event I ran with a 1/4 tank of gas and the back end was dancing with me, never really stepped out, but it was twitchier, but still rotated nicely.

Next season I'll start fiddling with pressures and such. Before next season though I would like to get a LTB and maybe some SFCs since a local fellow ORGer has some. As of right now I'm pretty impressed with how this car handles, I would like to get some sticky tires and really see what it is capable of.

Think that might be your driving style changing. More gas should help balance the weight of the car making it more neutral. That extra 80+lbs will help the end come around more readily. Definately increase and play with the front pressures to find the sweet spot.

^ Tire pressure in our cars is key, IMO. I usually use 46-48 front, 40-42 rear.

2000 auto GLE, NA
1. Tokico Illumina (4/3 F/R)
2. Eibach
3. FSTB, Stage 1 LTB, Progress RSB
4. 48/42 F/R
5. OEM
6. 225/50/16 Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec

Great street tire choice. I'll bet those 6.5" rims are hurting your steering response though. Approx section width on those 225's is 8.5", you'd be better served running STS on a 7.5" rim which would also provide for lower tire pressures and more grip. Just grab 2 wider front wheels - $200 for a pair of 16x7.5 Sport Edition 19lb wheels over at TireRack :idea:

Not a bad idea! I may have to invest in those for the start of next year's season! :fro: Think I should go for all 4 or just stick with 2 for the fronts...?

Just the fronts unless you care about looks. You're trying to create oversteer. Use the cash saved for something useful.

I haven't actually taken it to a parking lot yet, but why not...

Ground controls (stock rates--450lbs/in front and 375lbs/in rear) with Stillen camber plates
Shortened Konis--1 turn front full stiff rear
-1.8 degrees of camber, zero toe
FSTB, Subframe connectors (no x-bracing), LTB stage 2
RSB (Progress)
235/40ZR18 Federal 595s on 18x8s

Car handles pretty neutrally... under zero throttle. Firming up the rear Konis and softening up the fronts creates a nice bit of turn-in as the rear will resist lateral load transfer more than the front and kick out just a bit.

[Nathan, 2003 SE, 6spd, NA/ bone stock]
1. Stock Struts/Shox
2. Stock Springs
3. No Braces
4. 28/44
5. Stock Camber
6. Stock size 225/45/17 Kelley tires on rear. Stock 2000 maxima wheels on front with Falken Azenis RT-615, 225/50/16

I know this sounds like a boring setup. It is really my daily driver. I just run it occasionally when my dedicated auto-x car (95 turbo integra LS) has issues. I run in GS. I always wondered why the class requirement doesn't change for the bigger 3.5L engine. It does go up to FS for the gen 6 maxima though.

Looking at everybody's camber setups. What do you guys recommend for a good setup for turn-in and such, but not kill my tires on the street? I run the dragon at least once a month now too so anything to help at AutoX and on spirited runs is nice.

Zero toe and -1.0 to -1.3 camber would be my suggestion. Just a bit more agressive than stock. Might disconnect the front sway too one month and see how that feels.

Do you guys think that poly-u bushings for the front sway or stiffer sway bar end-link will do anything in autocross? I just started with a few events, but want to tweak it a little more.

Depends on your mods and what you're trying to do. I had good success removing the bar entirely as it promoted turn in, helped front grip, and loosened up the rear more. It cost me dearly in slaloms and transitions though. Start by making sure the bar is greased in the middle and moving as it should (even loosening the middle brackets a bit if needed). With your mushy shocks you won't notice a bushings change.

Ok, I will check. Last week I had a little too much roll and I think my bushings are going, or could use stiffer ones. It might as well just be the shocks, not sure.

Time to revive this thread.

2001 auto AE, NA
1. Tokico Illumina (4/5 F/R)
2. Tein S-Tech
3. FSTB, RSTB, RSB, Poly LCA Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings
4. 45/45 F/R
5. OEM - Currently looking for Camber Plates
6. 225/48/18 Nitto NT555

BBK necessary?
 

As the new autox season started, and wanted ideas whether a bbk or 6th gen upgrade would be advisable. Is the added weight on the wheels going to slow me down too much compared to what I make up with later braking. I know I can get some wilwood superlites which would help, but do you think stock calipers/rotors with aggressive pads will work.
I ask only because I am starting to do some road courses and I see a lot of others running stock.

I'm stopping with Brembo drilled and slotted rotors w/ Hawk HPS on all for corners and stop just fine. I'm thinking, if your going to do more road courses that a BBK would be best. I'm satisfied with my setup, but will jump on a 6th gen setup for a good price. I don't think the added weight will negatively effect performance. This is a touchy subject and some will disagree.

Thanks. I'm sure if I find a kit that is lighter than the stocks, that would obviously be better in terms of weight, but was wondering if anyone has done similar tracks, I know the setup changes every week, with stocks then with BBK and saw dramatic differences in autox times. For the road course, I will see what I find for that extra stopping, since the stocks prob wont hold up too long.

1999, Manual 6mt HLSD, NA
1. BC Racing Type BR 15/30F 30/30R
2. 5mm Preload (Too soft, need to do more), dropped about .5" below stock.
3. None
4. Tire Pressure 30f/40r
5. -3.0F / -1.2R
6. Kumho Ecsta v710 225/45/17 / Random 17s in the rear