road race prep
06-24-2005, 12:47 AM
#1
road race prep
my next NASA event will be in the dead of summer in CA at willowsprings and i had some initial worries with my car and the heat (100+ F). I've done the following precautions but was wondering if anyone had other recommendations.
1. 10w-40 oil for the track (also have 5w40 HKS race oil)
2. redline water wetter in coolant (65% water to 35% nissan coolant)
3. nitrogen gas for the tires instead of normal o2
4. oil cooler
5. brake and intake ducts
6. front diffuser to draw out accelerated air from underneath
my greatest concern is the TS ecu with advanced timing and was wondering if i should opt for maybe higher octane gas at the event.
1. 10w-40 oil for the track (also have 5w40 HKS race oil)
2. redline water wetter in coolant (65% water to 35% nissan coolant)
3. nitrogen gas for the tires instead of normal o2
4. oil cooler
5. brake and intake ducts
6. front diffuser to draw out accelerated air from underneath
my greatest concern is the TS ecu with advanced timing and was wondering if i should opt for maybe higher octane gas at the event.
06-24-2005, 05:38 AM
#3
Honestly I wouldn't worry about it.
I took my Maxima out to it's first few lapping days when it was 105+ outside and it had zero problems.
If your car is fine on a 90 degree day, then it'll be fine on a 100 degree day as well. just take a few more personal precautions and make sure YOU don't overheat. ice chest full of water, keep some food in your system, etc.
I took my Maxima out to it's first few lapping days when it was 105+ outside and it had zero problems.
If your car is fine on a 90 degree day, then it'll be fine on a 100 degree day as well. just take a few more personal precautions and make sure YOU don't overheat. ice chest full of water, keep some food in your system, etc.
06-24-2005, 11:01 AM
#4
Isn't 91 octane the best pump gas you can get out there? The TS is supposed to have dual programs to handle lower but maybe ask them their toughts. Might be wise to mix up a batch of 93 just in case.
06-24-2005, 07:12 PM
#5
Originally Posted by SkinnyMax
You should flush your brake lines and maybe even the clutch line. Use some DOT4 race fluid with a higher boiling point. Do you have any pics of your brake ducts, I'm still working out a design for my 4th gen.
I'm also interested in the brake ducting......
06-26-2005, 01:53 AM
#6
oh right, forgot about bleeding the brake and clutch lines. A lot of gas stations around my area sell 100 octane, so its not a big concern if they don't have any at the track
pics? dang, you'll have to wait till i'm back in the states. It looks ugly IMO and there isn't much room inside our engine bay. I keep them at the lower valence area, one on each side. If you take a look at the 2001+ LS430s, that where I got the idea from. I can take a pic of my dad's LS430 when i get back also. I want to incorporate it into the front splitter, but haven't had the time to take measurements
edit: here is where I bought the stuff: www.pitstopusa.com
pics? dang, you'll have to wait till i'm back in the states. It looks ugly IMO and there isn't much room inside our engine bay. I keep them at the lower valence area, one on each side. If you take a look at the 2001+ LS430s, that where I got the idea from. I can take a pic of my dad's LS430 when i get back also. I want to incorporate it into the front splitter, but haven't had the time to take measurements
edit: here is where I bought the stuff: www.pitstopusa.com
06-26-2005, 05:42 AM
#8
they are pointed at an angle to the inner side of the tire, I haven't figured out a good way to route them to point directly at the rotor/caliper without being sheered off during steering
06-27-2005, 09:16 AM
#9
basically, you're going to have to run them just in front of the CV/axle from inside the wheel well. then attach them to the bottom of the strut or onto the spindle somehow and aim them at the caliper or just above/in front of the caliper so you're blowing air directly on the rotor before it goes into the caliper, or the caliper itself.
it's hard to do in a FWD car because of the axle and our frame & suspension design. but it can be done.
it's hard to do in a FWD car because of the axle and our frame & suspension design. but it can be done.
06-27-2005, 07:58 PM
#11
yup.. that's the hard part.
i see a lot of the Z guys using a couple pieces of about 1.5" tube.. it's ducted from behind their corner lights (that they pull out at the track), and into the brake system/front suspension.
i see a lot of the Z guys using a couple pieces of about 1.5" tube.. it's ducted from behind their corner lights (that they pull out at the track), and into the brake system/front suspension.
07-08-2005, 08:50 AM
#15
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Your $3,000 brake system needs ducts?? j/k. Let us know how it goes. Some race dudes run oil accumulators to prevent oil starvation in high g situations. Unless you have a baffled oil pan already.
i don't think i'll need a baffled oil pan just yet. the vq30 oil sump(?) or whatever that long tube with a sieved end sits pretty low in the oil pan already, the fuel tank may be another story.
07-08-2005, 11:59 AM
#16
Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 34
If you're really really worried about overheating, you can run pure Distilled Water in your coolant system. Water transfers heat better than coolant.
However, I would only recommend this if you have a pretty accurate water-temperature guage, and you trust your fans to kick on when they're supposed-to. Otherwise you may overheat sitting in the Grid. Water has better heat-transfer properties, but it also has a lower boiling point than coolant.
Willow Springs is pretty high altitude, so it will have a slightly lower boiling point than the regular 212 F (or 100C).
As for fuel, they sell 100 Octane and 110 Octane fuel at Willow Springs, over at the Big Track Pit Area. They're not always open for business though. With the higher temperatures, and your timing advance I would show up with some regular 91 (93 if you can find it) in the tank, keep a bottle of Octane Booster handy, and gradually push harder.
I know from personal experience that being stuck in Willow Springs is not fun. There's absolutely nothing to do. :-p I melted my clutch there (on Streets) once and was stuck there for 3 days.
And I agree with Matt93SE... your main concern is to keep YOURSELF from overheating. Driving around in that kind of heat, you sweat A LOT, and if you get dehydrated, you'll start getting dizzy and all kinds of nasty things. I usually buy a bag-or-two of ice in the morning at the Chevron station right on the other side of the 14. And bring water or Gatorade... not soda with caffeine (Caffeine is a mild dessicant).
Bringing a Tent (with tie-downs in case it gets windy) is a good idea also. That Pit-Garage gets pretty hot because it has poor air circulation, plus if someone really does a job on the toilets in there, that whole place stinks.
Good Luck!
However, I would only recommend this if you have a pretty accurate water-temperature guage, and you trust your fans to kick on when they're supposed-to. Otherwise you may overheat sitting in the Grid. Water has better heat-transfer properties, but it also has a lower boiling point than coolant.
Willow Springs is pretty high altitude, so it will have a slightly lower boiling point than the regular 212 F (or 100C).
As for fuel, they sell 100 Octane and 110 Octane fuel at Willow Springs, over at the Big Track Pit Area. They're not always open for business though. With the higher temperatures, and your timing advance I would show up with some regular 91 (93 if you can find it) in the tank, keep a bottle of Octane Booster handy, and gradually push harder.
I know from personal experience that being stuck in Willow Springs is not fun. There's absolutely nothing to do. :-p I melted my clutch there (on Streets) once and was stuck there for 3 days.
And I agree with Matt93SE... your main concern is to keep YOURSELF from overheating. Driving around in that kind of heat, you sweat A LOT, and if you get dehydrated, you'll start getting dizzy and all kinds of nasty things. I usually buy a bag-or-two of ice in the morning at the Chevron station right on the other side of the 14. And bring water or Gatorade... not soda with caffeine (Caffeine is a mild dessicant).
Bringing a Tent (with tie-downs in case it gets windy) is a good idea also. That Pit-Garage gets pretty hot because it has poor air circulation, plus if someone really does a job on the toilets in there, that whole place stinks.
Good Luck!
07-09-2005, 04:41 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Larrio
my next NASA event will be in the dead of summer in CA at willowsprings and i had some initial worries with my car and the heat (100+ F). I've done the following precautions but was wondering if anyone had other recommendations.
1. 10w-40 oil for the track (also have 5w40 HKS race oil)
2. redline water wetter in coolant (65% water to 35% nissan coolant)
3. nitrogen gas for the tires instead of normal o2
4. oil cooler
5. brake and intake ducts
6. front diffuser to draw out accelerated air from underneath
my greatest concern is the TS ecu with advanced timing and was wondering if i should opt for maybe higher octane gas at the event.
1. 10w-40 oil for the track (also have 5w40 HKS race oil)
2. redline water wetter in coolant (65% water to 35% nissan coolant)
3. nitrogen gas for the tires instead of normal o2
4. oil cooler
5. brake and intake ducts
6. front diffuser to draw out accelerated air from underneath
my greatest concern is the TS ecu with advanced timing and was wondering if i should opt for maybe higher octane gas at the event.
I track my car frequently.....the 10-40 oil is too thick, you will want to stick with that 5-40 HKS race oil.
The water wetter, you wont need. It is designed for cars with smal radiators, trust me, you wont need it.
The TS ecu can run 93 all day during a race (I use chevron personally) and it should do fine.
07-09-2005, 05:17 PM
#19
Originally Posted by E55AMG2
the 10-40 oil is too thick, you will want to stick with that 5-40 HKS race oil.
07-09-2005, 06:51 PM
#20
Originally Posted by SkinnyMax
just for your info, this won't make a difference, the hot viscocity is the same with both oils, you are only changing the cold viscocity
07-09-2005, 07:18 PM
#21
don't worry about the water wetter.. I run straight water in mine and never have a problem except when I threw my water pump/power steering belt during a hard run in 95+ heat.
for the oil, 10-40 is fine. you actually want a slightly thicker oil to help keep it from splashing around so bad in the bottom of the pan and to keep oil pressure up.
don't worry about the nitrogen gas either. the effects of it on a street car are much less than on a race car, and the air is already almost 80% nitrogen.. you're not changing much in there unless you mount the tires, then pull a vacuum on them to remove all the oxygen, THEN replacing with 100% nitrogen.. and I don't see that happening at any tire shop I've been to.
for the oil, 10-40 is fine. you actually want a slightly thicker oil to help keep it from splashing around so bad in the bottom of the pan and to keep oil pressure up.
don't worry about the nitrogen gas either. the effects of it on a street car are much less than on a race car, and the air is already almost 80% nitrogen.. you're not changing much in there unless you mount the tires, then pull a vacuum on them to remove all the oxygen, THEN replacing with 100% nitrogen.. and I don't see that happening at any tire shop I've been to.
07-27-2005, 06:08 AM
#23
when u going larry?
anyways for hydration i usually attach a camel back to the back of my driver seat and tape the 90degree angle water dispensor thing onto my helmet so i can drink it whenever i'm on a straight away and stuff. gimme a call when u decide to go. =D.
anyways for hydration i usually attach a camel back to the back of my driver seat and tape the 90degree angle water dispensor thing onto my helmet so i can drink it whenever i'm on a straight away and stuff. gimme a call when u decide to go. =D.
07-28-2005, 11:24 AM
#24
i missed the last session in july, so i'm stuck until september when california speedway opens up again.
I managed to hit the track in taiwan, but not with my car... so it was rather pointless.
I managed to hit the track in taiwan, but not with my car... so it was rather pointless.
07-28-2005, 12:59 PM
#26
Originally Posted by irish44j
^^^entirely true.
I usually run a mix of things, syth blend (10-40), high mileage (sometimes), and either two quarts 10-40 or one quart 10-40 and one quart 20-50, depending on the time of year.
07-29-2005, 07:40 PM
#31
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
eek... you guys are nuts. just run high quality oil and you shouldn't have any problems running regular grades..
For my activities I think an oil cooler is complete overkill.
07-30-2005, 12:53 PM
#36
a oil cooler will keep the temps down, the higher oil viscosity will keep the engine lubricated more properly during the high temps (since you'll be in that range for most of the time while on the track)
this is my theory, i could be wrong
this is my theory, i could be wrong
07-30-2005, 04:03 PM
#37
Originally Posted by Larrio
a oil cooler will keep the temps down, the higher oil viscosity will keep the engine lubricated more properly during the high temps (since you'll be in that range for most of the time while on the track)
this is my theory, i could be wrong
this is my theory, i could be wrong
With an oil cooler, you shouldnt need to run anything thicker than 10w-30. Hell, you shouldnt be running anything heavier than 30 weight period in ANY VQ engine
07-30-2005, 05:59 PM
#38
Originally Posted by E55AMG2
With an oil cooler, you shouldnt need to run anything thicker than 10w-30. Hell, you shouldnt be running anything heavier than 30 weight period in ANY VQ engine
You're from/in FLA, you don't think the temps get high enough to run 50? I beg to differ, I lived in Tampa for years, it is fckung hot!
If you race why not run 50.
07-30-2005, 06:42 PM
#39
Originally Posted by 97SEdriver
Why? There is no damage running a higher wt oil is going to do. If you have a 4th gen VQ, running a thicker oil will inevitably help any very slight leaks you engine may have.
You're from/in FLA, you don't think the temps get high enough to run 50? I beg to differ, I lived in Tampa for years, it is fckung hot!
If you race why not run 50.
You're from/in FLA, you don't think the temps get high enough to run 50? I beg to differ, I lived in Tampa for years, it is fckung hot!
If you race why not run 50.
1) the oil channels in our blocks werent designed for it (regardless of ambient temp)
2) Synthetic 5w-30 has been shown to perform better than dino 10-40
3) with an oil cooler the oil temps rarely cross 190, so there is no need for anything heavier than 30wt
4) running 40 an 50 wt in an engine not designed for it causes excessive pumping losses via added viscosity and provides no additional protection (it might even offer less, because the oil cant flow properly).
Run any oil you wish, its your engine not mine
07-31-2005, 07:23 AM
#40
The engines are designed for 5-30 and they do quite well with it. there is zero need to go higher and cause more problems. just run high quality oil in it, possibly with a cooler, and call it a day.