EAST Coast BEAM BENDING! Soon VA beach - November DO NOT MISS IT!
#1
EAST Coast BEAM BENDING! Soon VA beach - November DO NOT MISS IT!
For those of you that missed out the last time this happened and you have no idea what "beam bending" is or does you dont want to miss out on this one! There are only a couple people in the country that are familiar enough with our cars and the process of bending the rear beam to zero toe that you can or would trust your maxima to this modification! And it looks like our friends on the sr20forum are setting him up to come to VA beach sometime in November! Its a cheap mod and one of the best things you can do to your 4th gen....so dont miss out!
Here is the link for the last time this was set up on the .org:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=98sr20ve
Here is the link to a previous thread on the sr20forum on the explination of "why" and process on how and what is done (yes I know it says how to make your b14 handle properly, but the rear of the Maxima is not much different....so read for an explination):
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=44778
Steves reputation, and reviews of before and after:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=48563
And here is the going list of people that have signed up for the upcoming beam bending event:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=169421
Here is the link for the last time this was set up on the .org:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=98sr20ve
Here is the link to a previous thread on the sr20forum on the explination of "why" and process on how and what is done (yes I know it says how to make your b14 handle properly, but the rear of the Maxima is not much different....so read for an explination):
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=44778
Steves reputation, and reviews of before and after:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=48563
And here is the going list of people that have signed up for the upcoming beam bending event:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=169421
#2
Originally Posted by sergofast
For those of you that missed out the last time this happened and you have no idea what "beam bending" is or does you dont want to miss out on this one! There are only a couple people in the country that are familiar enough with our cars and the process of bending the rear beam to zero toe that you can or would trust your maxima to this modification! And it looks like our friends on the sr20forum are setting him up to come to VA beach sometime in November! Its a cheap mod and one of the best things you can do to your 4th gen....so dont miss out!
Here is the link for the last time this was set up on the .org:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=98sr20ve
Here is the link to a previous thread on the sr20forum and it has several detailed links to the explination of "why" and process on how and what is done:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....7&page=1&pp=20
And here is the going list of people that have signed up for the upcoming beam bending event:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=169421
Here is the link for the last time this was set up on the .org:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....light=98sr20ve
Here is the link to a previous thread on the sr20forum and it has several detailed links to the explination of "why" and process on how and what is done:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....7&page=1&pp=20
And here is the going list of people that have signed up for the upcoming beam bending event:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=169421
that link didnt work for me so im still clueless as hell as to what beam bending is?? can u explain?
#3
sorry, i posted the wrong link....try the corrected one:
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=44778
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=44778
#6
Good News if it goes through I plan on being there.
Also IMO this should be moved into the suspension and brakes forum or the autocross/track section. They are more apt to take advantage of this procedure.
Also IMO this should be moved into the suspension and brakes forum or the autocross/track section. They are more apt to take advantage of this procedure.
#8
Beam bending - on the east coast! Set your rear end to 0 toe
I posted this thread in the 4th gen forum, and then realized it should have been put here, because the guys that read these threads would know what the heck this process is and be serious about getting this done right. Its an amazing opportunity and an inexpensive mod to boot!
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=493409
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=493409
#9
if I wasn't getting so pissed off at my maxima, I'd probably do it....at this point I don't want to do anything else that will hurt the trade-in value in the event that I just decide to throw in the towel on this f-ing car.
For those of you who don't know what this is, it is highly recommended from all who have done it.
For those of you who don't know what this is, it is highly recommended from all who have done it.
#10
Originally Posted by irish44j
if I wasn't getting so pissed off at my maxima, I'd probably do it....at this point I don't want to do anything else that will hurt the trade-in value in the event that I just decide to throw in the towel on this f-ing car.
For those of you who don't know what this is, it is highly recommended from all who have done it.
For those of you who don't know what this is, it is highly recommended from all who have done it.
What is else is going on besides your tranny?
#12
culmination of noises that I can't figure out...vibrations I can't pinpoint, etc..
already did:
- rebalance all wheels
- replace left driveaxle
- replace both strut bearings
- replace spring isolators
- replace right front bearing
still getting bearing noise but can't tell where it's coming from...too faint and only at certain speeds. I bought a junkyard spindle for front left to install. Also have a right driveaxle from Raxles on the way (could be the driveaxle support bearing, I suppose), and probably will replace both rears just because it's easy to do.
Then I have a rattle that comes and goes under hard acceleration sometimes. can't tell if it's a heat shield (very few left under there), bad cat, crap in the ypipe, or a transmission issue. it only does it when I'm not listening close and I can't "make" it do it. Suspect it's the cat, but who knows.
Then I have a soft whirring when in gear that makes me think one of the bearings in the tranny is going....rebuild time.
Plus my tire are gettig low on tread and are noisy as hell...
Anyhow, feeling better today since it's nice outside...but too much BS going on. I'm not going to get rid of the car or anything, but fixing crap is much less fun than putting on "new" mods. grr.
already did:
- rebalance all wheels
- replace left driveaxle
- replace both strut bearings
- replace spring isolators
- replace right front bearing
still getting bearing noise but can't tell where it's coming from...too faint and only at certain speeds. I bought a junkyard spindle for front left to install. Also have a right driveaxle from Raxles on the way (could be the driveaxle support bearing, I suppose), and probably will replace both rears just because it's easy to do.
Then I have a rattle that comes and goes under hard acceleration sometimes. can't tell if it's a heat shield (very few left under there), bad cat, crap in the ypipe, or a transmission issue. it only does it when I'm not listening close and I can't "make" it do it. Suspect it's the cat, but who knows.
Then I have a soft whirring when in gear that makes me think one of the bearings in the tranny is going....rebuild time.
Plus my tire are gettig low on tread and are noisy as hell...
Anyhow, feeling better today since it's nice outside...but too much BS going on. I'm not going to get rid of the car or anything, but fixing crap is much less fun than putting on "new" mods. grr.
#13
Originally Posted by irish44j
Then I have a soft whirring when in gear that makes me think one of the bearings in the tranny is going....rebuild time.
#15
if you want in on this you better log onto the sr20forum.com and let Steve know. He is closing off the list due to his limited time that he has to do it.
Cost is 125 per car. Ticket should be less then 75 each (probably more like $50). If you are "in or out" respond in the thread. Otherwise you will loose your place in the line. We are looking at Saterday and a couple people on Sunday for thanksgiving weekend.
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=169421
Cost is 125 per car. Ticket should be less then 75 each (probably more like $50). If you are "in or out" respond in the thread. Otherwise you will loose your place in the line. We are looking at Saterday and a couple people on Sunday for thanksgiving weekend.
http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread.php?t=169421
#18
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Originally Posted by sergofast
long of the short of it. your rear toe is shaped like this / \ making the max not handle as well as it could.
A small amount (less then 1 deg.) of negative camber helps handling by keeping the outside edge of the tire from folding under during hard cornering.
Toe in 1/16 of an inch helps straightline tracking.
I wouldn't mess with the rear beam of any car unless it's bent out of factory spec. Setting it to zero is going to make the rear feel squirly under normal driving conditions. If your Auto-xing and you want more oversteer, then by all means set it up that way.
Setting the rear alignment to zero is not going to make our cars handle correctly under normal driving conditions.
#20
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
/ \ Are you looking at camber or toe. Both of which you need.
A small amount (less then 1 deg.) of negative camber helps handling by keeping the outside edge of the tire from folding under during hard cornering.
Toe in 1/16 of an inch helps straightline tracking.
I wouldn't mess with the rear beam of any car unless it's bent out of factory spec. Setting it to zero is going to make the rear feel squirly under normal driving conditions. If your Auto-xing and you want more oversteer, then by all means set it up that way.
Setting the rear alignment to zero is not going to make our cars handle correctly under normal driving conditions.
A small amount (less then 1 deg.) of negative camber helps handling by keeping the outside edge of the tire from folding under during hard cornering.
Toe in 1/16 of an inch helps straightline tracking.
I wouldn't mess with the rear beam of any car unless it's bent out of factory spec. Setting it to zero is going to make the rear feel squirly under normal driving conditions. If your Auto-xing and you want more oversteer, then by all means set it up that way.
Setting the rear alignment to zero is not going to make our cars handle correctly under normal driving conditions.
Wrong.....sorry, and dont mean to be rude, but have you ever been in a car that has the beam to zero toe?
I just wanted to share with everyone some of the stuff I have been learning about B14 suspension setup. I have know all along that the B14 is not going to respond to the same tuning as a B13 (because it just never did). After sinking tons of time, energy and money in my suspension I have learned that the most important thing to do to a B14 is get the rear beam bent to zero toe. It comes with ¼ inch of rear toe and that just makes the car handle like a pig in every corner. It understeers no matter what you do to it. Once you take that toe out it will be significantly better. The change is dramatic and until that is done you will not have a good handling car. The reason this is requires some visualization. Rear toe-in means that the rear tires are pointing toward the engine of the car/centerline of the car. When you turn the car into a corner most/all of the rear weight of the car shifts to the outside tire. This outside tire is pointed toward the corner and will do everything it can to follow the arc toward the corner due to that rear toe in. Now lets toe that rear tire “out” or the oppisite direction away from the engine/centerline of the car. Now when you turn the car into the corner the rear of the car will become loaded on the outside and that tire will try and take an outside track around the corner. In other words it will want to spin more readably. With a B14 rear beam the tires have minimal camber deflection/change under cornering and as a result the rear of the car is extremely stable/planted in a corner. You add that “toe in” and it is far to stable for competitive driving or even fun street driving. The b14 needs zero rear toe for properly handling of any sporting nature. Remember only about 5% of the b14’s were se-r’s and most are setup for the average person just going to work. I hope that helps people understand why a seemingly small change in alignment in the rear can make such a big difference in the way a car handles. Mike Kojima has stated on several occasions that with a Bent Rear Beam the B14 handles better on a roadcourse then a B13. After getting the beam bent you have some choices. All the discussion from this point forward assumes that you have a B14 with the Beam Bent to Zero toe.
The rear beam on an A32 is almost exactly the same if not identical to the b14. It fits perfectly on my jig, so yes I can bend the beam on your maxima.
Originally Posted by irish44j
For those of you who don't know what this is, it is highly recommended from all who have done it.
Although the 1995-1999 B14
Sentra and 200SX is basically a very good
handling car, it is hampered from obtaining the
best possible cornering prowess by a feature
built into its rear suspension geometry by
Nissan. The rear axle has about 1/4 of an inch
toe-in designed into it. This was done to make
the car understeer under hard cornering.
Understeer means that at the limit of traction,
the front wheels will slide well before the rear
wheels.
Although this is a safe way
for a car to handle for an average or below
average driver, excess understeer is frustrating
to the experienced or competition driver.
Understeer slows the car down in tight corners
where a little oversteer is desired to help make
the car rotate, with minimal scrubbing. This is
the most critical in Autocross where most of the
turns are very tight and in some slower turns on
a road course.
On a B14 the toe is not
adjustable so the axle must be bent to adjust
the toe. The B14 axle is pretty complicated, it
has a U channel housing that contains a tubular
torsion tube. A special fixture is needed to
bend the axle properly without damaging the U channel or the torsion tube.
Darin Nishimura of West End
Alignment has developed a special fixture that
can bend the entire axle without any damage. The
fixture supports the U channel and torsion tube
and bends both parts equally. It is essential
that this method be used as simply bending the
axle can damage or weaken it.
We bent the axle on Project
200SX to set the rear toe from 1/4" toe-in
to zero. This greatly reduced understeer,
without causing excess oversteer. We highly
recommend this inexpensive mod which is just
about mandatory if you are a track racer or
Autocrosser.
Sentra and 200SX is basically a very good
handling car, it is hampered from obtaining the
best possible cornering prowess by a feature
built into its rear suspension geometry by
Nissan. The rear axle has about 1/4 of an inch
toe-in designed into it. This was done to make
the car understeer under hard cornering.
Understeer means that at the limit of traction,
the front wheels will slide well before the rear
wheels.
Although this is a safe way
for a car to handle for an average or below
average driver, excess understeer is frustrating
to the experienced or competition driver.
Understeer slows the car down in tight corners
where a little oversteer is desired to help make
the car rotate, with minimal scrubbing. This is
the most critical in Autocross where most of the
turns are very tight and in some slower turns on
a road course.
On a B14 the toe is not
adjustable so the axle must be bent to adjust
the toe. The B14 axle is pretty complicated, it
has a U channel housing that contains a tubular
torsion tube. A special fixture is needed to
bend the axle properly without damaging the U channel or the torsion tube.
Darin Nishimura of West End
Alignment has developed a special fixture that
can bend the entire axle without any damage. The
fixture supports the U channel and torsion tube
and bends both parts equally. It is essential
that this method be used as simply bending the
axle can damage or weaken it.
We bent the axle on Project
200SX to set the rear toe from 1/4" toe-in
to zero. This greatly reduced understeer,
without causing excess oversteer. We highly
recommend this inexpensive mod which is just
about mandatory if you are a track racer or
Autocrosser.
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