Many peeps who use the Edge pads don't have problems with them on rotaries.

I usually put 5 dots around the pad and 1 in the center. The line doesn't always work because the distribution of polish is not equal.

:werd:

It also depends on the paint that's on the vehicle as well. Some vehicles have softer clears than others (e.g. Hondas). Some have no clearcoat (e.g. Lexus (Certain colors), Older VWs). Some have hard clears (e.g. Nissan). Some have ceramic based clears (e.g. Mercedes, BMW)

You have to learn which polish is going to give you the best bang for the buck on your surface.

So after doing some searching, I'm seeing lots of positive reviews for the Ultima Paint Prep Plus and Paint Guard Plus

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/ultima.html

This stuff is expensive, but the reviews make me think it's worth it.......The only thing I don't understand is why people apply it by hand. I thought you always used a machine to apply wax/sealant....???

:headspin:

I have used AIO in addition to the SFX line. The results turned out pretty good. I have also used AIO in addition to DACP and Menzerna.

I would recommend scoring a sample to see if you like the product before you buy. More oft than not, you will find peeps willing to trade items on Autopia.

Well I'm going out of town, and wanted to get this 15% discount before it expired, so I just plopped down some dough....here's my order:

UDM, with DAS pad bundle and bonnet
Clay Magic
Ultima Paint Prep Plus
Ultima Paint Guard Plus

If I'm not satisfied, they always have their 100% satisfaction return policy ;)

Let me know if you get it today, how to pay, and how fast you can get it to me. If you are busy, I can PP and you can throw it in the mail.

lol
got it today
I'll drop it off at your house tomorrow after class (11:30ish)


If you want you can just leave money/check in a super secret location ( :noes: )

I'm like a little kid at Christmas with my stuff :D

Wee! How much again? I forgot where I left the $ last time. haha

BTW the Avalon will prob be outside. You can inspect my crappy wool pad/Optimum job. There's still swirls marks. Don't know if it's the wool pad or the technique (ie.. too much angle on the pad while polishing)

I'm not sure off the top of my head, I have the receipt upstairs (MSN is also upstairs... if it's even signed on). Lemme get it later tonight :hs:

Jeffy: Can I see some pics of the Avalon to get an idea?

If I can manage to take some decent pics, sure.

Jeffro, it was

Edge 2K Drive Adapter 5/8" Thread $17.99
Optimum Car Wax $15.99
the shipping for those two was $8.99

(the actual order was $177.91 plus shipping was $18.99 lol, so I ordered more)


$33.98 for the two things plus $4 shipping?

$40 it is. Hmmm now where to hide it?

meebe Gone took some? :noes:

:noes:

I only had my phone :o

the swirls aren't nearly as noticeable in person

http://uploader.ws/upload/200707/0731071138.jpg

http://uploader.ws/upload/200707/0731071139b.jpg

Thanks for the pics and cropping the rock chips. But yeah, those are the swirls I left.

This is after using the Optimium compound then Optimum polish w/ the wool pad.

Maybe I need the Poliseal and a foam? Or Optimum polish with foam?

I didn't crop/edit anything lol, just resized them :wiggle:

I haven't used the poli-seal yet but I think you may have to use Optimum Polish for those. I'd try the Poli-Seal first then step up if it isn't cutting it.

After reading the Polish directions, it says you can use both a wool or light foam pad. but using the foam pad would remove lighter imperfections.

I guess I'll try a foam pad and Polish so see what happens on the Avalon.

On the G, I'll use a foam and Poli-Seal as said. I was examining the swirls on the g and they are pretty minor. But there are some light rubs/scratches where I might have to do some spot polish with the Polish or compound the following the poli-seal.

Those are streaks, not swirls. You need to buff it again.

'
Mostly whats in gone's pics are streaks...notice how they're regularly spaced like buffer marks? Sometimes you have to buff a lot and even use some QD to get all the product off.

it pays to be a nazi about turning your towels. fold in half twice and use one. side. at. a. time. so you're always using relatively clean towel. Sometimes you just have to make two passes, the second with a new towel, and sometimes you need qd to get product off.

Also...

...DONT DETAIL IN THE SUN....and the stuff won't dry on there.

I don't think they are streaks. I mean it's been a week and I've washed the car once already. YOu sure?

Not sure, but I've had streaks last that long...what was the last product you put on? Polymer sealant? That stuff can streak and stay...through a wash.

I could be wrong though.

They are swirl marks, remember the last thing he used was a wool bonnet :o

OOoooooooookay...so they're pad marks. OK gotcha. I didnt read that part ahahaha.

Those look like holograms that are usually from using a rotary improperly.

Well I did something wrong. What is "proper"? For now, I think it's the wool bonnet. BUT I do remember having tilt the jack out of the rotary to keep the the thing from jumping.

Blue's probably right that it's holograms. His experience with the rotary > mine.

I think you overdid it, but read up on Autopia. Hit it with the foam pad and go way easier this time. 1500RPM is about the max you would ever want to use, and you can go much lower than that on delicate areas or if you are just having trouble controlling the machine. If the thing was jumping around on you, then I think you really need to ease up on it. I also think the wool pad was too much.

+1 on foam pads

Wool pads will usually induce new marring. You always need to follow up with a foam pad at a slower speed. Wool is very harsh on the clear coat. Id also check and see how much you are heating up the surface. Make sure you're not sitting in one spot too long.

I think it was jumping because the wool pad is very small or the surface was too dirty. I was using another rotary w/ a larger wool pad (7-8") and it didn't jump at all.

There's your problem.

I think that's it. BUT I was using the other rotary w/ the larger pad and it didn't jump. Odd.

In the end, I used the small unit (because it's 10x quieter than my old one (bearings are shot). But the problem is I had to tilt the crap out of it. Probably another reason why the swirls are there.

Yea you really shouldn't be tilting it.

Well I going to drop off Dad's car tonight. I brought all my crap and have the right adaptor to run the foamies. I'll give a panel a test ride and see what happens

Jeff, what I was quoting before was related to the surface being dirty. Did you mean the surface with dirty with compound dust? Or the surface was actually dirty?

You shouldn't be doing ANY compounding on a surface that needs to be washed. I always keep a bottle of QD spray handy after i've done a few passes of Rubbing Compound. Since that compound dusts so easily, I always clean up the surface after a few passes.

I never do any detailing on a dirty car either. Good way to introduce new scratches.

Not dirty as in "needed to be washed". But dirty as in a ton of contaminants on the paint. ie.. really clogs up the wool pad.

Ok, that makes more sense. In those situations I typically wash the pads more often. I always keep a hose nearby and wash off my foam cutting pad after a couple passes if the paint is in rough shape.

Helps reduce the marring that's sometimes created from cutting through the clear.

Would this "marring" be able to be felt by hand? ie.. rougher texture?

No, it's only detected visually. Holograms, new swirls, would all be marring.

It can be corrected by following up with a foam polishing pad and a lighter compound.