Detailing question
 

So I happened to have a Porter Cable orbital. Not random. Max rpm is 1500. I "think" that is okay from the stickies I read.

But I need a backing plate and pads. So instead of buying the backing plate and pads, I was thinking of just buying this.

http://www.autogeek.net/foam-polishing-kit.html

Two pads in one and no backing plate required. I could use some polishing stuff so I picked own that had some included. $100 is a good/bad deal?

Absolutely horrible idea. Completely terrible deal.

Ah so it's a great deal :idea:

Did you just say "Ah so!"

Hai biach...

good one.

The foam pads look like they would be fun to squeeze.:gotme:

Velcro backing plate + Meguiars pads = very cost effective.

I would be VERY afraid of pressing too hard and killing my car...I like to have that nice wiiiiiide backing plate supporting the pad. I would put up the money to get the backing plate now with the idea being that you'll save money in the long term on cheaper, normal pads.

If you need microfiber join the autopia forums, order from pakshak.com and hit ranney up for the discount. Real nice high quality MF towels.

In that case, I'll need probably a 6" backing plate (or larger?), pads and some liquid. Who has a best deal on a starter package? I've used Mequires products before though.

I'm not the right guy to ask about anything resembling a "deal" on detailing equipment...hahaha...other than MF towels I guess.

I get all my stuff from properautocare.com. They have the flexible backing plates and good pads. For polish I use Menzerna FP. I also have Menzerna Power Gloss and Menzerna Intensive polish, but Ive used them maybe once. The FP does a pretty good job on the rotary by itself. Only major problems would need a heavier polish.

Meguiars makes quality ****, though. I used to use their Dual Action Cleaner Polish which is a heavier polish.

I local is offering 1 set of Optimum polishes 4 diff ones 32 oz each, the adaptor and 5 of these Edge pads for $110

I think I might go for it.

I told you Jeff that you could borrow teh random orbital, you just have to buy pads, which would be a HECK of a lot cheaper, not to mention safer, than what your cooking up. :buttkick:

Yeah but eventually, I'd need my own stuff. I plan to do my dad's avalon that needs SERIOUS help, wife's rx300 and my G35. My schedule always seems jammed up. It would be nice to have the stuff around when I happened to have a free hour or so.

Thanks. Gone offered to help also but again scheduling is a pain.

If your looking to pick something up, Griots garage is having their open house/garage sale this weekend in Tacoma, starts at 8am on Saturday. They had some pretty sweet deals last year. Get there after 8:30 though, and most of the good stuff is gone.

Griots has very good pads for random orbital, though I'm not sure about the rotary ones. Their polishes seemed like they werent aggressive enough to me though.

IMHO stick with the backing plate setup, having to break out the tool to switch pads every time gets old really quick :hs:

What's I local?

Thats where your wrong, you dont need a tool to switch these pads or flip them, you install the shaft once with a tool, then its just use your finger to depress a button inside and it makes the pad come off, no tool needed, you can flip or switch a pad in 5secs and its always centered unlike backing plates when lining them up.

I have these pads and love them. Dont know why people think the backing plates are the answer to everything in the detail world, if you havent tried these then you need to, you will love them. I do and I have Lake Country CCS pads and will no longer use them. These edge pads are much easier to use and clean and no worries about the velcro on the pad or backing plate coming loose or centering issues ever. And they are cheaper since you got two sides.

Dixit

For the deal I"m getting for that local guy (G owner), I might just go with it. Just the Optimum polishes are $85

Are you getting 4 optimum polishes for only $85? Thats not too bad, but cheaper with Autogeek since its only $17 a bottle.

Another question would be are you going to need all 4 different levels, many only need just two of them, I normally only use the polishing and the compound and its normally more than enough, the Hyper compound is a heavy cutter. I also use the Menzerna line of stuff now as well since its more geared for the Benz's and its ceramic clear coats.

Dixit

I noted that 2 of the polishes are pretty aggressive. But I have to do my Dad's Avalon that needs serious help.

I know :hs:

sometimes you can find them cheaper online but after shipping... yeah

It's nice to have them around.

I'm thinking about ordering some Poli-Seal and I'm in the air on Opti-Seal. I was going to grab some Natty's Blue (well probably Red :o) and the Poorboys World Trim Restorer, EX-P Sealant, and some Bug Squash (I have other stuff but want to try it :o).

It sucks how it quickly an order passes $100 :(

I want to buy this
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...g_1954_2091667
http://www.properautocare.com/porcabpolac.html

but there are way too many pads to choose from...

Get the UDM (Ultimate Detailing Machine) instead. It just came out this year, and the makers based it off of the Porter Cable, but with much improvement.

Less vibration, higher speed, and more cutting power. From what i've read, it can do basically almost what a rotory can, without the worry of burning through.

UDM is going for $150 from what I remember.

I forgot to check the size of my Porter Cable rotary. duh.

Hmm! UDM sounds interesting...some kind of middle ground. My problem with the PC has always been that it's too weak to effectively remove scratches and swirls.

UDM is supposed to work on a higher amperate thus more power, less bogging etc..

Yea I never really found it to bog that bad, though pushing hard with it on 6 still wouldn't do a great job taking out scratches and swirls. It was good for cleaning the paint and bringing back a shine, but really restoring anything was a real *****.

I definitely could be persuaded to buy one...I didnt know the dude from autopia was the one making it.

I think if you want that type of ability, you need to go rotary

The reviews of the UDM say it can do with a rotary does, just not in the same amount of time.

Same goes with the PC. It's just more time spent.

Yeaaaa...I just don't like the rotary because it's so tiring to use and so easy to burn your paint. Flat panels are easy enough but getting the swirls out of door moldings and off the trunk lid near the spoiler is a nightmare without ****ing up and burning an edge.

I'm getting to the point where I almost want to buy a Rotary just because I don't have the patience to attack defects with a DA :o


I <3 DA's for tight spots, curves and finishing in general though :o

Use a strong enough compound and it's not an issue with a DA.

Just need to know the right pad/compound to use.

I was able to turn a 10+ year old Avalon with a hard clear from complete ****, to almost brand new in less than 8 hours. I did use a strong rubbing compound for the first step, but I followed up with the right pads and compounds to correct the marring from the RC.

I have Optimum Hyper Compound, Meguiars heavy cut, and cutting pads. After the first panel I become very impatient :o

I had no problem back in the day with 3M Perfect-it II RC

Required maybe 1 or 2 passes. :o

I gave that **** up a while ago. Like 5 rounds of the heaviest polish I have on 6 with heavy pressure is a retarded amount of work to put in to get swirls and minor scratches out. The DA shines up the paint nicely, it's a good finishing tool, but it sucks balls for really getting down and dirty.

Just be careful if you haven't used a rotary before. First time I used one I was like...oh this is a joke if you have experience using a DA it's fine...you just keep it moving!! Then the next time I burned the **** out of my spolier, then I burned a corner of a door, then I ALMOST burned a molding. The thing is it IS easy for 98% of the car but it's that one tricky place where you're a little out of position or lose concentration for a second and BOOM the **** burns.

Speed control def makes a difference...1500 on flat surfaces and then crank down from there. I didn't rotary the car this year because I just didnt care...but next year I probably will again and I'll just lower the RPMs WAY down in tricky areas.

More questions.

I looked in the box and the PC model is a 7401. But I also found a PC flexible backing plate. Looks like a 7" one with the vercro pad.
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/...BL._AA280_.jpg

So it seems I do have one. But have you guys used the PC flexible backing plates w/ your foam pads? Good as any other?

The adaptor the guy is selling is for the random orbital, not for the rotary I have.

What was your heaviest polish?

For rough surfaces, I usually start out right away with a Rubbing Compound on speed 6, on a cutting foam pad. I haven't had any issues with this method.

Do you have a 7428?

Gone, I have Optimum Polish. I am going to try it out on the wife's car.

BTW, I should be getting a UDM shortly and will give you guys feedback.

Excellent. I'm very curious about how the UDM performs.

:werd: They are tough to handle dependent on the car. Maximas aren't too bad.

DACP was probably the heaviest polish I used on it, though I might have tried the Menzerna at some point. It worked, it just took forever. What takes 5 rounds of polishing with the PC took one with the rotary....and that's just swirls. For a clearcoat scratch...forget it!

I actually have never used a flexible plate. I would imagine it would be nicer than a hard plate...everyone seems to use the flex plates but I just havent bothered replacing mine.

DACP is fairly strong, but I don't rely on those grades of polishes for getting out severe defects.

Like i've said previously, on heavy duty applications, I usually start out with the strongest foam cutting pad and a rubbing compound (3M usually). It's basically liquid sandpaper and works fine with the PC. It'll take swirls out instantly, but I don't rely on RC for swirls since it takes another compound to correct the marring from the RC.

RC -> DACP/Machine Glaze on polishing pad -> wax/sealant

That order works very well on cars with an older hard clear with a lot of defects. Turns the car from old to new in a few passes. :)

Interesting...seems a bit agressive for clearcoat but maybe ill give it a shot. What, specifically, are you talking about in terms of rubbing compound?

3M Rubbing Compound. I've used 3M Perfect-it II RC before (Discontinued I believe), but now im using 3M Rubbing Compound (Medium Cut). It dusts like crazy, but it's aggresive enough to cut swirls out in one pass sometimes.

It's not a one step process obviously, you have to follow up with a semi-agressive compound to smooth out the cutting action of the RC. It's perfectly fine for clear coats, you just don't want to use it when you don't need to, and maybe not so much on new cars since newer cars have fairly soft clears (especially german cars).


Just remember, it's basically a liquid sandpaper, so you only need one or two passes.

so I have to buy one of these in order to use all the stuff I'm buying from that dude.
https://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/autogeek/edgerotary.jpg

Hate to just buy this one thing. Anything else I should add?

What all will you have so far and where are you ordering it from?


If they sell Poorboys World stuff I'll split shipping with you http://smiliesftw.com/x/fingersx.gif

1 each of the orange, green, and white pads, and 2 blue pads as well as brand new bottles of Optimumum: Hyper compound, Compound, Polish, and Poliseal in 32oz sizes. And the adaptor for Random. (which wont' fit my orbital).

I'm ordering from:
http://www.autogeek.net/searchresult...query=poorboys

Yea, we'll see. It may be easier to just get better with the rot in the long run. I hate to order more products, because I have a basement FULL of detailing ****. Good tip though!