I don't think having the swirl valves would make much of a positive difference in overall power levels or performance, especially for racing. But that's just my speculation. Looking in the FSM it seems that the swirl valves are mainly used below 3200rpm and at idling to improve vaporization and swirl going into the combustion chamber.

From the 2001 FSM:
"While idling and during low engine speed operation, the swirl control valve closes. Thus the velocity of the air in the intake passage increases, promoting the vaporization of the fuel and producing a swirl in the combustion chamber. Because of this operation, this system tends to increase the burning speed of the gas mixture, improve fuel consumption, and increase the stability in running conditions."

 

call me crazy but does ne one remember this thread....?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=412767

i believe most of u called bs...NmexMAX/dandyMax ...:^

 

I still call on that thread ..

 

That guy's dyno was not done on a DynoJet... and he never did get it done on a DynoJet either IIRC.

The Cattman headers (including the y-pipe) will only gain you about 20hp/20tq on a N/A VQ30. This I am 100% sure of as I have dyno'd my car specifically after getting the headers. I believe I posted my results in that thread too... check it out:

My Cattman header dyno results from last year

 

Not only that but that was on an automatic ... DandyMax > other thread

 

Thanks man!

But for anyone who doesn't believe the dyno, consider my 1/4 mile stats...

I have only run the car 3 days this fall since putting the VI on back in the spring, and to date I have run 14.0 and trapped just about 101, and that's with only a 7000 rpm limiter, only 91 octane (no extra timing advance), and with wheel bearings nearly seized and causing major drag on the wheels (ie-power loss). The last time out my wheels were squealing and shuddering and my trap was down to about 96-97 but I still ran 14.08. Not to mention all of this at a heavy race weight of 3250+.

So I believe my dyno results...

 

dandy no one is disuputing ur dyno results...but you guys have similar mods except for afc...but the results reasonably speaking are pretty close...with fixed wheel bearings or whatever mechanical problems your vehicle is having..ur vehicle may very well dyno the same results...and u guys are both automatic...not trying to be an a -hole but i figured i bring it back up...nice numbers though..

 

No I'm a 5-spd... that's why his numbers are so unbelievable (along with it not being a dynojet)

 

okie dokie...it makes more sense now..thank you for clearing that up...

 

Holy shat!! You are putting down the same power as my 3.5.. Great job!

 

When have you dynoed

You still have more torque/area under curve

 

I haven't dynoed yet, but his trap speed is .3 mph faster than mine. So i'm guessing i'm putting out around 220 whp also.


Time to get some mods...

 

His dyno ownz any stock fwdVQ35's after 6k.. so His 1/4 mile time could be indicative of his better launch due to less torque, but very strong top end.. compared to your weaker top end but strong low end.. Of coruse we can't really pin the tail on the donkey since you have no dyno ... But even with your inactive "VI" it sill produces a very strong amount of tq, thus perhaps hurting your launch

 

sooo.. basicly from stock to tuned you went from 160whp to 220whp!
60whp gain! that is just awesome

damn i wish someone knew how to install a VI around here, then i would
buy one for sure!

 

Man I'd rather have the extra torque of the 3.5 on the launch. Give me a well prepped track, a VQ35, slicks and a bit of practice with them and watch me run sub 1.9 60 fts as compared to the 2.12 best I've got so far on DR's.

But keep in mind gentlemen that 14.0 and 101mph is not the best this car will do. There's quite a bit left unfinished, although my season is over for this year. Things I can still do that will gain me time/power without adding major mods (eg I don't have a flywheel but am not going to get one):

-some weight reduction (3250 race weight is HEAVY)
-once I have timing control with the EU, with better gas and full tuning there should be more power to squeeze out, including a higher rev limit than 7000
-fix power-robbing mechanical problems such as wheel-bearings
-a couple other unfinished minor projects/tweaks up my sleeve that will gain a little more power
-get some slicks.. DR's are not the same

You add all those things up and I can probably hit 230whp, not to mention an easy .2 to .3 off my times with better 60 fts due to slicks.

Then we get some weight off and I believe I can get the car to 13.6 or 13.7, maybe further. (I'm not going to go too crazy on the weight reduction)

 

...In the beginning ... ... This is going to get cool. The rev limit alone will/should help out.

Your trap clearly indicates a faster time...

 

with slicks and a 1.7 60, why wouldn't it be possible to run 13.5 or lower.

 

I don't think I can pull 1.7 with a VQ30, not enough torque. If I could it would definitely be lower than 13.5.

 

1.7 ... ...

 

Damn that's nice DandyMax!

 

Thing is, you've got the stock 6.5k rev limit and the stock intake manifold. So, in order to be fair to both engines, you'd have to compare your car (or mine, or anyone else who's stuck with the stock ecu and IM) to a H/I/E 4th gen 5-speed with no tuning and the stock USIM.

I've been watching your progress with this this Dandy, and I got to say the org would be a much better place if everyone was like you, actually making things progress for our cars. 220whp out of a 4th gen 3.0 without cams was pretty much considered impossible until now. Guys were happy to crack the 200whp barrier. If only Greddy would get off their lazy asses and help you out. I'd love to have this thing on my 3.5.

 

The word 'fair' in this statement is slightly offset by the 0.5L ..

 

You know what I meant.

 

I do but it almost seems as if you're making excuses.



Point being, run what you brung .... Even if Nismo (the reason we started this particular debate) has 220whp ... he still has more area under the curve than this 3L.. read my post a page or 2 back whre I said that.

But when you want to run both engines in "fariness" .. ... Why, that's why we mod, in order to have an edge on the competeition, if you have stock IM/rev limiter, too bad for you, get with it and improve

 

I wish I cared about going further with my Max. Damn good numbers!

 

Big guy like you would love a nice big car like the M....

 

Wow man, congrats on the great numbers. I knew a DEK with a JWT ECU could put down that much power!! Aside from your headers, we pretty much have the same mods. I've been hoping for numbers like that, and you just gave me more hope that it can be done on my car as well. I knew a properly tuned DEK can out-power a poorly tuned 3.5

 

Peak #'s yes, area under the curve, no ...

 

95maxrider I would not call myself properly tuned yet... as I described a few posts back on page 2 there are still areas I can get more power. I'm ok for a/f and switchover but my rev limit needs to go up and my timing can probably go up also once the EU is updated (using 91 octane only now). I'm hoping to hit 225-230whp.

Having said all that though, the 3.5 would kill those numbers once it's tuned. I'd love to have a 3.5 with the EU and the rest of my mods I already have... and I will, eventually. For now I just want to see how much I can wring out of the 3.0L.

 

Another mod you should look into (one that does not give you more power but makes you faster) is a final drive ratio swap. It is more involved than I first thought but you can replace the stock 3.823 final drive with either 4.167 or 4.471. The parts are VERY hard to find but can be had for less than 300 bucks in used form...

 

Yeah I took note of your research on this topic, and the thought of changing gears has crossed my mind several times over the past few months but I'm not sure I want to bother with anything that involves tranny/clutch/flywheel etc until I actually do the 3.5 swap. At that time I plan to build everything piece by piece with my final goals in mind.

But you never know.. I might change my mind. haha

 

Indeed....but who cares about area under the curve? That's what nitrous is for

 

area under the curve only wins races, no big deal

 

wow, almost make me not wanna sell this '00 VI i got.

 

that didnt really do anything for your car wow a few hp

 

Hey whats up? im trying to find a wide body kit, carbon fiber parts accessories, a few extra ponnies under the hood. please if you got info please contact me leocruz2000@hotmail.com thanks

 

Nice #'s. Back when I had weapon-r short ram, cattman 2.5 ypipe, hi flow cat, cattman 2.5 catback, unorthodox pulley and e-manage, dyoed 220fwhp and 198wtq on stock ecu exedy stage 1 clutch. I thought my car was special, but I finally found someone with close results.

 

Got a run file or sheet?

 

Maybe it was your dyno that was special.

 

Very nice #s DandyMax, what kinda max MAF voltage do you see ? I would like to go and dyno my car but I would like to do it in a fridgid dyno cell with outside temps we have here nowa days I also need to reposition my Wideband 02 right into the Ypipe, as its sitting in the "behind main cat" bung provided for the Fed Spec 5th gens in my Cattman exhaust. I see A/F readings of 13.4-13.6:1 with no tuning what so ever on my PLX wideband. I have a Fidanza flywheel which should help me extract a few more ponies. I haven't seen anyone dyno with a flywheel here, but from what I seen on a 3.5L Altima its bout 15-19WHP gain overall. I been hearing a bit of timing chain rattle lately at idle, so cams are in order along with new tensioners.

I will hit ya up for some Emanage Ultimate help as soon as I unwrap it from under the Xmas tree