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What antifreeze to use: Red, blue or green? What does the radiator drain look like?

Fluids and Lubricants Motor oil, transmission oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid, blinker fluid... wait, there is no blinker fluid. Technical discussion and analysis of the different lubricants we use in our cars.

What antifreeze to use: Red, blue or green? What does the radiator drain look like?

Old 01-16-2004, 10:51 AM
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Red or green antifreeze/

What goes into a 99 Maxima?
greeen ( old kind) antifreeze or red (new kind) antifreeze?

owner's manual says use only Nissan or equal - no spec given!!!!!

******************************


this post lists your 3 options to change your coolant:

http://forums.maxima.org/4355300-post205.html

-NismoMax80

Last edited by NismoMax80; 01-13-2010 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 01-16-2004, 11:01 AM
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Try prestone global, it's formulated for every car make and model regardless of where it's built
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Old 01-16-2004, 12:09 PM
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greeeeeeeeeeeen
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Old 01-16-2004, 12:52 PM
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Toyota Red Antifreeze + Distilled Water = Years before replacement.


I flushed mine after 2 y3ears in my 99. It looked like I just changed it.
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Old 01-17-2004, 05:31 AM
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Good luck finding any green, long life "equivalent" (i.e.: animes free, silicate free, borate free) other than the Toyota red. I don't think it exists.
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Old 01-17-2004, 07:05 AM
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honda blue color, Toyota red color, nissan green color, pick you favorte color.all have silicate free, borate free, and long life 5 years. all can bought at dealers parts. what so hard to find?
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Old 01-17-2004, 08:34 AM
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Thanks
I was looking for an aftermarket equivalent that has low silicates and will be less than what the dealer sells. You also do not know what the dealer USES even tho they stock and will sell you the OE brand.
For example 5 years ago Toyota dealer used Prestons even tho they sold Toyota OE too.

Zerex G 05 may be it.

or
http://www.peakantifreeze.com/peak_global.html

is peak an established company?

also interesting in 12/00 the prestone 5/150 antifreeze jugs said no silicates or phosphates on the side of the jug. the new prestone's 5/150 do not say that
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Old 01-17-2004, 11:16 PM
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I would go with Toyota or Honda OEM on a foreign vehicle. Yeah, you pay $14/gallon, but you don't worry about issues down the road.


More importantly, flush the system REAL well with distilled water first, then drain the entire radiator and fill with 100% antifreeze. This guarantees you the 50/50 recommended mix.
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Old 01-18-2004, 04:12 PM
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will call the dealer but --

I may be leaning toward Havoline. They seem to address no silicates and Japanese cars
http://www.havoline.com/products/na/antifreeze.html
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Old 01-18-2004, 05:34 PM
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Hmmm...interesting discussion. Does anyone know the price of antifreeze from Nissan?

Sounds like Havoline will meet (possibly exceed) OEM.
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Old 01-18-2004, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by edwardh1
I may be leaning toward Havoline. They seem to address no silicates and Japanese cars
http://www.havoline.com/products/na/antifreeze.html
I would strongly recommed that you stay away from that Havoline extended life antifreeze. I tried some in my previous Max and did not like the way it crystalized around my recovery tank. Nissan says to use their brand or an equivalent but does not give any specs for reference. That's odd because they give you specs for other fluids and lubricants.
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Old 01-18-2004, 06:55 PM
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the supra guys swear by the red toyota stuff... so good enough for them, good enough for me

on their faq's they run 15% coolant to 85% distilled water and one bottle of redline water wetter (or whatever its called)
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Old 01-19-2004, 02:31 AM
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There is no US manufacturer that makes no silicates, no phosphates antifreeze that isn't of the same chemistry as Dex-Cool and I would personally steer way clear of those. The closest thing to the Nissan OEM (which I prefer and use) is the Zerex G-05 (about $6/gal) which is low silicate and phosphate free. Given the infrequent fluid changes involved here, I think it is worth $10 more to use Nissan or any of the Japanese OEM fluids (which are all the same). If you do indeed use one of these Dex-Cool type chemistries, flush your system very well because they do not mix with the type of chemistry of the OEM.
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Old 01-19-2004, 05:37 AM
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wonder

You wonder why there is so little on the web about what is really in the Japanese antifreeses. I can not find anything.

I agree about the Dexcool and havoline - there are rumors that GM may drop them as a supplier since there were so many Dexcool problems. GM really messed that antifreeze invention/promotion up.

you womder what all the auto repair shops and radiator shops use - bet they don't use japanese OE. To say nothing of Jiffy lube etc. I read an article by a national radiator repair organization that claimed japanese cars had done fine on american antifreeze over the years silicates not withstanding and shops needed to stock only two types of AF.

Nissan dealers about Antifreeze:
- Dealer one - I called. They said we use Nissan Antifreeze for warranty work and Shell for non warranty work. I looked up Shell - I do not think they make a silicate free antifreeze except a dredded DEXCOOL clone. The parts man had not heard of the silicate issue
- Dealer two - I went there. They Sold Nissan brand and a "no name" brand and said "OK to use "whatever" brand antifreeze. They Had not heard of the silicate isue. Their aftermarket brand was in a clean bottle, $8. the Nissan brand was in a dust covered bottle. i said "Don't sell much of this do you? - answer was Nope. $16.
the Nissan bottle said ok for all metals, long life and that it had no silicates, no amines, and no borates. No mention of DEXCOOL and no mention of OAT - organic acid technology.
Distributed by Nissan Motor Corp in Gardena Calif (does that mean it is made in the US?
If this antifreeze is truly not OAt technology, how do they get the silicates out of what sounds like regular antifreeze. It is called Long Life.
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Old 01-19-2004, 12:37 PM
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There are no silicates as they don't put them in to begin with. Rather, the Japanese OEMs use an ethelyn glycol base with special corrosion inhibitors which is why you can mix regular green antifreeze with it without any serious side effects other than adding silicates and phosphates to the mix. Each region of the world and OEM in the US seems to prefer its own version of antifreeze. The Japanese use no silicate, no phosphate 'green' with special corrosion inhibitors, the Europeans use phosphate free (due to hard water in Europe) low to medium silicate and in the US you have green with silicates and phosphates, Dex-Cool and their clones, and new antifreezes like G-05 and G-48.

You can use regular green with out any side effects other than shortening the life of your water pump due to the silicates (sand that helps to clean internal parts of the system). T can he best version of this, IMO, is G-05 which is at least low in silicates adn phosphate free and is being adopted by several European OEMs and Ford. Or you can spend $10 more an use the Nissan OEM.
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Old 01-19-2004, 01:03 PM
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I got the oem.

I guess I am amazed that there is no "Japanese targeted" aftermarket antifreez available. prestone I guess wants you to either buy their regular AF with silicates (and ignore what Nissan sez) or buy their DEXCOOL and take on those problems.

there also seems to be no third party technical papers -
like the japanese on their own discovered the silicate problem and American and European engineers must disagree
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Old 01-20-2004, 05:04 AM
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Radiator drain plug question

(( maxima.
Does the drain plug for the radiator have an o ring on it?
Hondas and Toyotas I have owned have a o ring on the radiator bottom plug, the drain plug.

When i took my maxima plug out I did not see an o ring (i could not look straight up) but when i replaced the plug it seemed like it met some resistance right before the threads engaged.
Is the radiatir colant sealing done by an o ring?
or by how tight you turn the plastic plug/screw?

mine has not leaked.

Thanks
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Old 01-20-2004, 05:34 PM
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It has a rubber washer http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/502
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Old 01-21-2004, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bill99gxe
Toyota Red Antifreeze + Distilled Water = Years before replacement.


I flushed mine after 2 y3ears in my 99. It looked like I just changed it.
Bill,

Would you mind walking through how you "flushed" it? Trying to get the best ideas since I am doing this myself since NISSAN wont "flush" it. They just drain and fill.

Also, once you "flush" it real well with distilled water, can you mix Toy/Hon/Niss w/o any ill affects? I am interpreting it as a non-issue as long as you stick with these three.

Thanks
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:19 AM
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How much distilled water am I needing here roughly?


Originally Posted by Colonel
Bill,

Would you mind walking through how you "flushed" it? Trying to get the best ideas since I am doing this myself since NISSAN wont "flush" it. They just drain and fill.

Also, once you "flush" it real well with distilled water, can you mix Toy/Hon/Niss w/o any ill affects? I am interpreting it as a non-issue as long as you stick with these three.

Thanks
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Colonel
Bill,

Would you mind walking through how you "flushed" it? Trying to get the best ideas since I am doing this myself since NISSAN wont "flush" it. They just drain and fill.

Also, once you "flush" it real well with distilled water, can you mix Toy/Hon/Niss w/o any ill affects? I am interpreting it as a non-issue as long as you stick with these three.

Thanks

Drain existing out of radiator.

Re-fill with distilled water.

Run engine for several minutes till heater gets hot (move temp lever to HOT on A/C)

Let cool a few minutes.

Drain.

Re-fill with distilled water.


Lather, rinse, repeat until water is clear and the "soot" collected in your bucket from draining the radiator is almost nil.


At that point, drain and re-fill with antifreeze of your choice. And be a rebel: choose Honda Blue or Toyota Red.
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:27 AM
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So Toyota Red is much better then Nissan OEM, right?

Any places online to order it?

Originally Posted by bill99gxe
Drain existing out of radiator.

Re-fill with distilled water.

Run engine for several minutes till heater gets hot (move temp lever to HOT on A/C)

Let cool a few minutes.

Drain.

Re-fill with distilled water.


Lather, rinse, repeat until water is clear and the "soot" collected in your bucket from draining the radiator is almost nil.


At that point, drain and re-fill with antifreeze of your choice. And be a rebel: choose Honda Blue or Toyota Red.
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bill99gxe
Drain existing out of radiator.

Re-fill with distilled water.

Run engine for several minutes till heater gets hot (move temp lever to HOT on A/C)

Let cool a few minutes.

Drain.

Re-fill with distilled water.


Lather, rinse, repeat until water is clear and the "soot" collected in your bucket from draining the radiator is almost nil.


At that point, drain and re-fill with antifreeze of your choice. And be a rebel: choose Honda Blue or Toyota Red.
Splendid...I was thinking of doing it that way...confirmation is always helpful.

I was going for Toyota Red because of hear-say and you know...red coolant is SO COOL!

Hey Alex, I am planning to do this this weekend so Ill try my best to keep track of gallons of distilled water I use to get it "clear".

Something to tackle this weekend. Just gotta find the radiator drain screw and buy an nice new funnel. Oh yeah...and coolant...hehe.

Thanks for the info Bill.
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bill99gxe
Drain existing out of radiator.
Re-fill with distilled water.
Run engine for several minutes till heater gets hot (move temp lever to HOT on A/C)
Let cool a few minutes.
Drain.
Re-fill with distilled water.
Lather, rinse, repeat until water is clear and the "soot" collected in your bucket from draining the radiator is almost nil.

At that point, drain and re-fill with antifreeze of your choice. And be a rebel: choose Honda Blue or Toyota Red.
bill, got a few ?'s for you.

1) what about for those that that don't want to use 50/50. what if we prefer 30/70, for example. how can we get it to that. the way you explain it is that roughly half distilled is left after you drain the radiator, so putting 100% AF afterwards yields 50/50 mixture. is there a way to make it lower.

2) is there a recommended mixture to use for different areas of climate. my research shows that water does a better job at cooling down than AF, so having a greater water mixture is good, and only have just enough AF so that nothing freezes. based on my readings, i was aiming for an ideal of roughly 25-30AF/70-75Water. i'm in NY, if this sways your answer.

3) as odd as this may sound (or maybe even newbie) where do i get distilled water. you gotta buy something like this or is there a distillation process.

thanx
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:08 PM
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It's available by the gallon jug at your local grocery store. Some "water refill stations" also offer it.

Originally Posted by PoLo

3) as odd as this may sound (or maybe even newbie) where do i get distilled water. you gotta buy something like this or is there a distillation process.

thanx
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:10 PM
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I've *READ* people in colder climates should stick with 50/50. If you rarely see below freezing like myself, 20-30% AF is recommended.

Supposedly, any lower then 20% AF isn't recommended for A/C equipped cars. Not sure why though.

Originally Posted by PoLo
2) is there a recommended mixture to use for different areas of climate. my research shows that water does a better job at cooling down than AF, so having a greater water mixture is good, and only have just enough AF so that nothing freezes. based on my readings, i was aiming for an ideal of roughly 25-30AF/70-75Water. i'm in NY, if this sways your answer.
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Old 01-21-2004, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
I've *READ* people in colder climates should stick with 50/50. If you rarely see below freezing like myself, 20-30% AF is recommended.

Supposedly, any lower then 20% AF isn't recommended for A/C equipped cars. Not sure why though.
Ethylene glycol also raises the boiling point, as I understand. With the A/C condenser spewing out heat before the radiator it can get a little hot in there...
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Old 01-21-2004, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by spirilis
Ethylene glycol also raises the boiling point, as I understand. With the A/C condenser spewing out heat before the radiator it can get a little hot in there...
ok, so NY temps can range from 5-100 degrees (grrrr) which means i should accept a 50/50 setup.

so in all this mess, what are your thoughts on redline's water watter in all this. if used, i'm assuming to put ~4-5oz of water wetter, followed by filling up with AF(i just fill till the rad. overflows?). then fill the reservoir (50/50 or straight AF?) and then check every few days, filling up reservoir as the car "burps" the rest of the air out.

how does this final step sound?
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by PoLo
bill, got a few ?'s for you.

1) what about for those that that don't want to use 50/50. what if we prefer 30/70, for example. how can we get it to that. the way you explain it is that roughly half distilled is left after you drain the radiator, so putting 100% AF afterwards yields 50/50 mixture. is there a way to make it lower.
Radiator on VQs hold 4 quarts. System capacity is 8 to 9 quarts. That's close enough to 50/50 for me.

2) is there a recommended mixture to use for different areas of climate. my research shows that water does a better job at cooling down than AF, so having a greater water mixture is good, and only have just enough AF so that nothing freezes. based on my readings, i was aiming for an ideal of roughly 25-30AF/70-75Water. i'm in NY, if this sways your answer.


Sure, you can just adjust your amount by how much antifreeze is required for your application. You can assume the radiator holds 4 quarts, so if you want a 30/70 mix, then simply use 2'1/2 quarts or so in the radiator on the final fill.

3) as odd as this may sound (or maybe even newbie) where do i get distilled water. you gotta buy something like this or is there a distillation process.


Wally-World. 50 cents a gallon. I recommend 8 gallons if it's your first flush.
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by PoLo
ok, so NY temps can range from 5-100 degrees (grrrr) which means i should accept a 50/50 setup.

so in all this mess, what are your thoughts on redline's water watter in all this. if used, i'm assuming to put ~4-5oz of water wetter, followed by filling up with AF(i just fill till the rad. overflows?). then fill the reservoir (50/50 or straight AF?) and then check every few days, filling up reservoir as the car "burps" the rest of the air out.

how does this final step sound?
I've heard Redline WaterWetter makes the most difference in a mixture of less antifreeze and more water, but I've heard people swear by its benefits even in a 50/50 mixture. I say use it, but I wouldn't bother with more than 1 bottle of the stuff. If I understand its operating principles correctly, it doesn't take much of it to do the job.
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
So Toyota Red is much better then Nissan OEM, right?

Any places online to order it?

toyota-parts.com


OR better yet:


-Steve Ganz
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-TRD/L-Tuned/TTE/JDM parts/Tein
-Tom's Racing/Jic-Magic/L-Sportline
-Rotora brake systems/RMM
-ProLex Performance/SSR
[email protected]
-1-800-908-6968



I would tend to think you would get killed on shipping, though.
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Old 01-21-2004, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bill99gxe
Radiator on VQs hold 4 quarts. System capacity is 8 to 9 quarts. That's close enough to 50/50 for me.

[/B]

Sure, you can just adjust your amount by how much antifreeze is required for your application. You can assume the radiator holds 4 quarts, so if you want a 30/70 mix, then simply use 2'1/2 quarts or so in the radiator on the final fill.

[/B]

Wally-World. 50 cents a gallon. I recommend 8 gallons if it's your first flush.
i realized that afterewards...not really sure why i even asked that...DOH!!.

in either case, thanx for the response.
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Old 01-21-2004, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
So Toyota Red is much better then Nissan OEM, right?

Any places online to order it?
might be cheaper at your local toyota dealer. Around CA they carry alot of them along with all their TRD parts.
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Old 01-22-2004, 06:30 AM
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I looked at the link

It does not show a washer that I saw, did I miss it?
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Old 01-22-2004, 08:35 AM
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On my 00 I just unscrewed the thing and then screwed it back up with a screwdriver "pretty tight", but nowhere near enough to start stripping. I've had zero leakage. Not sure on the rings though
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Old 01-22-2004, 12:14 PM
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toyota red/oem nissan

[I think are the SAME.
the 4 ingredients are the same.
see coolants topic in bob isthe oil guy.com
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Old 01-23-2004, 08:44 AM
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Hmmm

Hey guys I was just perusing more coolant sites and ended back up at Motorvates site and there is a certain part that has me a bit worried.

"The engine must be COLD!
Do not try this on a WARM or HOT engine. You may warp the block or the heads!" Motorvates Linky

Soooooooo, how cold is cold in order to do the lather rinse repeat step.

I was going to:

1) run the car to op temp and turn heat on to full (not sure if gate will stay open though)
2) drain rad when sensibly cool enough
3) fill with distilled water
4) run car again (how long?)
5) lather rinse repeat.

The distilled water will be in my house so it will be 65+F, but no car temp. How worried should I be about warping stuff?

Also, does anybody know the procedure on automatic climate control on a 01 to open the heater gate?
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Old 01-23-2004, 09:02 AM
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Don't put your distilled water in the fridge. Room temp. is what you want.
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Old 01-23-2004, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by bill99gxe
Don't put your distilled water in the fridge. Room temp. is what you want.
Now that would be funny/stupid at the same time....

So, room temp and you think I should be fine. Thats what I read into this.

Wonder what Mr. Murphy has in store for me this weekend...
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Old 01-23-2004, 10:55 AM
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First step

Got my coolant today....Toyota Factory Red...11.95 a gallon...not bad. In fact better than the 18.95 Nissan wants.
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