can anyone tell me step by step how to flush cooling system fluid and brake system fluid?
i have an 02 maxima w 90,000 miles and want to do this maintainence.
thanks a bunch

 

If you must ask these questions, it's probably best to take it in. Bit if not, get a Haynes or Chilton.

The brakes are the easiest, jsut bleed them. I've heard of mechanics charging only $15.

Start from the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder, and work towards it but using a turkey baster pump pumping the fluid, or a friend pumping the brakes while you wait at the caliper until it flows new, clean fluid. try speed bleeders too, they work well. PM me for more details if you need.

 

Was he supposed to magically know how to do these things, if he's never done them before? At one point you didn't know how, and had to find out too, don't forget!

 

Not quite.

From the FSM:

 

****, i did it in wrong order last time then. oh well, next time i know.

 

How do the bleeders operate ?? Ive never done it before ?? slowly loosen them and as the air comes out, tighten them ??

How do I bleed the old fluid out of the resevior...will it come out when I take off the lines ??

-matt

 

tagging. wanan bleed mines, do u guys know how much i need to completely get new and clear fluid?

thanks

 

freaking a man, im still confused, many people are telling many different ways to do them.

so this is what i got,
1. take off front driver's side wheel, then take disconect the calliper end of the brake lines, and have it facing towards a bucket.
2. pop the hood, and open the reservoir (brake) and have a friend pump the brake pedal as the fluid starts to leak into the bottle.
3. as he is pumping the brake pedal, pour in the new brake fluid into the reservoir about 1 bottle.
4. after that, keep pumping the brake pedal until all is flushed out.
5. after that, pour new brake fluid into the reservoir, have a friend pump the brake pedal (Keep pouring brake fluid in the reservoir) until the new fluid starts to bleed again. after that, connect the line to the new brake calliper.

So is that right? someone please correct me if im wrong, i need to do this right. thanx.

 

You don't disconnect the brake line.....you attach a piece of tubing to the bleeder screw on the caliper. Have your buddy pump a few times to build pressure, loosen the bleeder to let fluid out, have your buddy pump till new fluid comes out, then close the bleeder. Between each wheel top off the reservoir. Also, the tubing from the bleeder screw should be placed into a container with brake fluid already in it, so you can see the bubbles and so that no air can go back into the caliper.

 

Sweet! thanx bro. that actually helped alot. i think i understand now. one more last questions, where is the bleeder screw located on the 300zx calliper?
thanx.

 

Upper left corner.

 

Okay, i am a bit unsure as well. I thought you friend cannot and should not let go of the pedal unless the bleed bolt is closed. Here's what I think, will you guys please check or confirm.

After removing everything:

1) Attach tube to bleed bolt screw, with turbing going into a water bottle to collect fluid. Have some brake fluid in bottle to observe bubble.
2) With car off, have friend pump a bit and hold till the pedal starts to harden. When it is near hard; towards bottom, have friend hold it in place.
3) Then, you open the bleed bolt and fluid should stream. (at the same time ur friend is holding pedal down).
4) Close bleed bolt, , pour new fluid in reservoir as u tell ur friend its okay to release.
5) Repeat step 4 till you see fresh fluid coming out?
6) Last step per wheel is to have ur friend pump as you pour fluid to make sure it doesn't sink?

thanks.

 

That's a very slow process. Truth be told, I just bought an $8 one-man bleeder kit at NAPA and did it myself. No need to do the 1-pump, close, open deal.

 

You could try Speed Bleeders as well. www.speedbleeder.com

 

ya but does that work? i mean i am trying to do not just one car, but other cars as well. just wanan confirm if it works, if it works good. just gotta learn it, and experience.

but i'll look at the kits, i

 

bumps.just wanan confirm w/ th pros.

 

yes, pump, open bleeder, pedal goes to floor, close bleeder, repeat till clear fluid comes out. make sure you keep the resivor full

 

Bleed fresh fluid through the whole brake system every two years minimum in "normal" use. Water absorbtion and heat are the enemy. Get a vacuum bleeder for $30 and you'll wonder how you made it through life without one.....brake work becomes a one person job, and it works well even when you do major dissassembly on the system...ie master cylinder or brake line replacement...in those scenerios speed bleeders don't work as good.

For cooling system...buy a can of gunk radiator flush and follow the directions. Don't mix colors of coolant. The parts store should have the right stuff on hand for your year and make. Regardless of what they say about long life coolant, I would also flush and replace it every two years. Any speedy lube can do the coolant flush for you if you don't feel up to it.

If you don't own a haynes manual yet, get one....
have fun!
JB

 

Only problem with that is sometimes it is very difficult to get a good seal on the bleeder screw w/ a vacuum bleeder.

If you use a radiator flush, then make sure you flush your cooling system very thoroughly after you use it. Any flush left in the system will slowly eat away at seals.

Other than that, great advice!

 

yes, you will see air bubbles in the bleeder hose...but they never get into the caliper. Here's a solution if you need to know if you have all the air out....

Before using the vacuum bleeder, put a piece of tubing on the bleed screw (to control the fluid that will come out) and back it out a just a few turns short of falling out....put some anitsieze on the bleeder threads and screw it back in. The anti sieze will form a seal so you don't draw air into the bleeder hose. You'll never have to worry about a siezed bleeder screw again either.

The radiator flush instruction tell you to fill, run the engine and drain with tap water twice (?) before filling with coolant (I add straight coolant at this point). A coolant gauge is cheap and good insurance as well as you end up with a lot of straight water in the system doing this process.