Has anyone change their brake fluid? If so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

If the brake is stiffer than before does that require brake fluid change?

 

You probably need to bleed you brakes, not change the brake fluid.

BTW: if you still feel like getting a new fluid (like me lol) than Valvoline Synpower is what I would recommend, it has 502F dry boiling point and, I believe, 330F wet. As far as I know, it’s the best you can get in a regular parts store.

 

When was your car originally sold and how many miles are on it?

Since brake fluid is hygroscopic, the brakes should be bled periodically, but I question whethere you need to do it yet.

 

Well I got my car around OCT 2003, and My brakes were changed once, it has 57k miles on it right now

 

If your brakes have been changed all the way around already, your brakes will have been bled and there should be no need to bleed them at this time.

Do you have a home or do you sleep in your car?

 

i think 80 miles a day is not that bad. I've been making over 120 daily for two months... well, now it's only 30

 

Not true. There is no reason to bleed the brakes if you aren't changing the caliper. If you are just changing the pads and/or rotors, there is no need to bleed the brakes because the hydraulic system has not been disturbed. They need to be bled if you open the hydraulic system in some way (i.e, replacing brake lines, calipers, master cylinder, etc.).

Changing the brake fluid from time to time can't hurt you. I'm REALLY overdue for it and want to get to it as soon as possible. I don't think my fluid's ever been changed in 217,000 miles and it looks kinda gross. Plus I know there have been a few times when the fluid boiled in the lines, and it probably got cooked.

 

I seen the valvoline synpower however it says for dot 3 and dot 4 systems. I have a 97 which uses dot 3 i believe. Could there be subliminal or long term effects using a fluid that suits both dot 3 and dot 4 systems?

I feel a bit more comfortable using brake fluid that's intended specifically for the system, i.e. dot 3.

What do you guys think? I have 2 bottles laying around but I might just give it a shot.

 

[QUOTE=MaxKlinger]Not true. There is no reason to bleed the brakes if you aren't changing the caliper.
Changing the brake fluid from time to time can't hurt you. QUOTE]

Right. Period change of the brake fluid in the master cylinder will do just as well as bleeding the brakes.

I prefer to bleed but it is a pain, so I am leaning more towards replacing fluid in the master cylinder

Remember brake fluid is made of esters and readily mixes with old fluid in the lines -- no need to bleed.

Valvoline Synpower is really good brake fluid which I have on my max. Hope this helps

 

I got my max in may of 2004 and I just installed my stainless steal breaklines on sunday. I used generic dot 3 brake fluid to bleed the brakes. That was my first time bleeding brakes. If your going to do it I suggest getting speed bleeders. It was 100x easier with them. I did one without it and will never do it again.

 

Any more opinions on the valvoline sypower dot3/dot4 one?

 

I did flush my brake system with valvoline sypower dot3 ~2 months ago, and the brake feel is firm and steady (can't think of better descriptions).

This is my second flush of the brake system (my Max is reaching 80k miles). The first time I used Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid (IIRC). I think Ford Heavy Duty brake fluis has a higher dry boiling point, but it is not an OTC stuff, plus I feel the valvoline gives me a better brake feel.

 

There are Glycol-based brake fluids and Silicone brake fluids. DOT3 is the rating of Glycol-based fluid with dry boiling point of at least 401F, DOT4 is the rating of Glycol-based fluid with dry boiling point of at least 446F. There’s also a DOT5.1 which I don’t know much about and DOT5 which is a Silicone brake fluid and can NOT be used in most cars.

To answer your question more directly, if your manual states that you can use only DOT3 it means that you can use any Glycol-based brake fluid with the dry boiling points of at least 401F – any DOT3 or DOT4 fluids.

 

Is it O.K. to change the brake fluid the same way as the power steering fluid, with a turkey baster?

 

I am using Valvoline Synpower DOT 3/4 brake fluid for over 90K miles and 4 years. Typically I flush the brake fluid every two years. Changing the fluid in the master cylinder is a good start, but to get all the old fluid out, you need to open the bleeder. Note: Not sure if brake fluid needs flushing. Some people don't flush and they don't have any problem. But I like clean looking fluid.

 

i can vouch for valvoline synpower....I've been using there brake fluid for 3yrs now.....one of the best over the counter inexpensive fluids I ever ran into....much cheaper than your ATE, Motul..etc

 

I believe if you run the fluid real low...too much air will enter the system and it will eventually have to be bled....

correct me if i am wrong orgers

 

Don't do it 1/2 arsed. I will bleed mines soon after I change my front which I am doing.

Does anyone know the order for a 97 maxima.

 

Doing that alone (removing the old fluid and adding new) isn't really "changing" it that way since the fluid down in the lines is still old, although that's probably the best way to start the fluid change.

To finish the job after you've changed the fluid in the reservoir, you should bleed all the brakes thoroughly, adding new fluid to the reservoir as necessary until the crap coming out of the bleeder screws at the calipers is clear, not brownish/dirty looking.

 

Hi guys by reading posts above I didn't get the exact time to change it.
Here's what my problem is: 6 months ago I changed both sets of brake pads front-> rear. I also bleed brake fluid a bit (It was brownish). Right now I think I have some issues.

1. While car is off I tried to pump brakes few times and only after third pump it stiffs hard but if you push the brake pedal it goes like 10-15mm down. Is that a symptom of air in a brake system?

2. In the morning when I start driving in the morning brakes feel like new and after while they become less stiffy.

3. I also noticed one thing: Rims in the rear get dirty much faster than in the front.

Please let me know What is the problem? Air in the system or brake fluid hydrolization?

BTW brake fluid had never been changed 2001->2005. And my brother's 97 max brakes are way better and stronger than mine.

Please help!!!!

 

Your rear brake may be dragging and overheat the brake fluid. Thus the spongy brake pedal. After driving for a few miles, you can check (touch) all 4 wheels to see if any one of them is much hoter than the others. Also rebleed them. May be a brake fluid flush would help in case the fluid is contaminated.

 

I dont' understand and i don't know how to tell if brakes are dragging. You have air in your system when you brake and the pedal feels spongy. HOwever, if your are holding your brakes at a stop light and it SINKS in, it could eithere be A) AIR, or the B) the master cylinder crapping out..

It's freaking scary man !!!

 

OR there is another possibilty. If the brakes have been sticking/dragging, the additional heat can actually boil the brake fluid. Once the brake fluid turns to a gas in the system, you have greatly rediced beaking power because a gas, unlike a liquid, is compressible. If you are approaching a light or stop sign and your pedal sinks to the floor, the gas in your brake lines could either be air or gaseous brake fluid from overheating the brakes. Either way, it's a scary feeling. It happened to me when my caliper got stuck two summers ago.

 

how to get rid of the sticking and dragging? One man told me that I have to cleane and regrease some kind of caliper rods which hold brake caliper. Thank you all guys!!!
If i decide to flush entire system what fluid would you suggest? I heard something about blue is it good?

 

Don't use too much grease on the caliper guide pin or you may get hydrolock which also causes the pad to drag. This web site has good info about brake http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php

 

Ya, I just did mines this past week. I wiped, inserted, took out, and made sure it would pull and go back in with ease. Basically the dab is really really small.

What I did was wipe, lub the pins, and twist and turn to make it even.


I will give the VALVOLINE SYNPOWER a try. Thanks.

 

Don't you have to use graphite grease for all the brake parts?

 

I used those small packets that were specified for brakes.

 

Update: Last sunday regreased rear caliper's pins but the problem still exists.
Here's on the image I marked areas pins I regreased with red Areas I regreased in Black and pad retainers circled in blue which I cleaned.

Maybe I should use graphite grease instead of on I used in those small plastix bags?
Or the air in the system could cause the same problem? One of the rear brakes is fine though. Since at least one of them fine now I noticed great difference in fuel economy. Last two weeks I got like 50 miles per 1/4Tank.

 

I used super blue racing... it has a 280 dry bp and 200 wet. Not as great as Valvoline, but great price and quality for street use, since I don't race. I would definately recommend a speed bleeder, and a good one too. I used a cheap one, and it fell apart on me, so I just changed the fluid without it.