Maxim(a)SerjVQ

Well, In one of the Stickied threads, I had made mention of switching to Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40. I had thoroughly researched different oils through manufacturer websites, and test/review lubricant sites, especially BITOG.com. My conclusion was that this stuff is commonly available, will work fine in our cars, and has a more robust additive package than standard passenger car oils. I have over 133k on my car so I'm not exactly scared of the old comments regarding potential cat failure based on the additive packages. This stuff is certified to work in all the latest and greatest diesel engines(which, if you read up over at BITOG it seems companies like caterpillar and the like have some of the strictest requirements). Bottle shows that the oil is also certified for general use in newer/recent passenger cars.

So, My first run, it's 4.25qt on a VQ35 with an AMSOil filter that already had about 4k on it. The results were good imo. I was a little ginger on the car after it first started up because someone made mention that the 5w on this stuff was as thick as some other companies 10 or even 15 winter rating. Once the car was running, I did seem to notice the cooling system being a little more aggressive when not on the highway, but the temp gauge wasn't reading any differently. Possibly just the 87-95F days here during that period. Overall Highway cruising felt very smooth, and almost like I had a more responsive high-end. I'm not about to dyno lube oil, and I'm not going to try to claim gains, especially since there might be some 'placebo effect' in there. After 4500mi or so, I started getting some very mild VTC chain rattle around 2000-2500rpms. Maybe I'm burning a little, maybe it's just the hot days thinning out the oil, or possibly the viscosity makes it more difficult to lube that area. I went ahead and did my change at a little over 6k on this batch, and a healthy 10k on the oil filter. Below is what I did:

-New Nissan 9E000 oil filter from DAVEB(this one is chinese-made, but Dave remarked on how fantastic they looked quality-wise, so I opted for one. Less than $5 and was added to some other stuff i was getting)

-1Qt. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30(Shell bought Pennzoil and switched this oil over to their proprietary "Shell XHVI" Synthesized Oil Base which from what I've read is an Isomerized Petroleum wax. Seems quite competent based on what I've read)

-3.25Qt Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w40(Same base stock as the Pennzoil Plat. but with the more robust additive package. I opted for this blend to see if i could reap the benefits of a little better flow properties when cold, and most of the more robust nature of the Rotella)

Since the Bases are the same and the majority of the oil is thicker, I think this blend could be pretty optimal for what goals I have set. The overall cost of this was pretty darn cheap too if you compare to an instant oil change place when you consider that I'm running 100% synthetic, and an oil filter that's reputedly characterized by great filtration. Cost Break-down:

Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 1gallon jug(the blue ones!) available at Wal-Mart for $16.64, or $17.99 @ Murray's
Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 1Qt. container(the reflective label) available at Wal-Mart for $4.62(iirc)
Nissan OE Oil Filter 9E000 $4.88 from DAVEB
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TOTAL = $26.14 not including tax.

Compare to most places that won't do anything but house-brand dead dino and a generic filter for around the same price unless you have a coupon.

I'm Very interested to see how this does. I will probably order a UOA kit for Blackstone and I intend to change the oil in roughly 7-8000mi. If I feel it necessary, I may throw in the last .75qt of the Rotella around 4k. I'll try and revisit this thread in a few months with the results.

So far the car is silky smooth and absolutely no VTC chain rattle, Lifter noise is practically non-existent even with it being almost 90F out, and I have no cooling issues.

Maxim(a)SerjVQ

UPDATE:

I've got maybe 100-150mi on the oil now, VTC chain rattle has returned. This may be a case where I'm just going to have to deal with it, or get it fixed. With the premium 100k/7yr warranty blown away in under 5 years, I'm going to have to prepare for what i suspect will be a costly TSB. Usability hasn't decreased, so if someone has an idea of how necessary this repair might be, please, fill me in.

I honestly think the car is actually running cooler now. Fresh oil? my blending allowing better flow? not sure. I still have great throttle response over 3k RPM, and the idle is still quite smooth, even during the last day or so when it was 93F and even the suction cups on my Passport gave out. I'm going to be putting down another 100mi or so tomorrow, so if I notice anything, I'll leave a note here.

andrei3333

how do u know its running cooler?

Oh yeah and maybe this will help you, let me know http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....58751&t=527500

but then again you have a 2003

Maxim(a)SerjVQ

I observed the temp gauge reading a tick or two lower, and the cooling system (read; radiator fans) doesn't seem to be running as aggressively. but then again, I was shutting off the a/c and rolling with the windows open to get a tighter grasp on the VTC chain rattle. I'll look into that link too, thanks.

Mainly I'm just posting observations for the time being until I hit the 7k mark, then I'll order up a UOA kit. At that point, I should have a good scope of where I stand.