Rad mat'l and af changes
Rad mat'l and af changes
Guys,
Just an FYI:
I used to have Calsonic as a customer at a place I used to work at. This was 3-4yrs ago, but the facts are facts. When chatting w/ one of the workers from Calsonic, they were going to extremely thin walled tubing in the rad in order to reduce wt and cost. This means less forgiving situations for those who choose not to change fluids often. I forget the wall thickness, but it seemed like it was some 0.0005" or so (maybe even less). It was so thin that I remember that I was stunned and had to think about it for a moment before commenting, and the guy says, yeah, it's pretty thin, isn't it! (and small diameter, too).
So, if you think $20-$25 is a lot for fluid, think about how quickly problems can occur. As the markets get more competitive year by year, don't expect things to last long if you slip even one bit on maintenance. These mat'ls are life cycled, and should you push it to the limit, you've passed the threshold. Mfr's stated intervals are not even near often enough, in my opinion, for what prob should be done. Think about it, if they said to change the fluids every 3K or 15K miles or some small interval like that, consumers would say no way and go get some other model. So, marketing I'm sure has pushed the recommended intervals to the extreme in order to entice those consumers who don't want to bother w/ maintenance.
So, just thought I'd let you know this info, for those who think it's a waste to spend money on regular changes. Depending on your model year, you might just not get away w/ it as life cycle engineering becomes more and more a part of your car - and thinner mat'l.
Hope this helps somebody.
Just an FYI:
I used to have Calsonic as a customer at a place I used to work at. This was 3-4yrs ago, but the facts are facts. When chatting w/ one of the workers from Calsonic, they were going to extremely thin walled tubing in the rad in order to reduce wt and cost. This means less forgiving situations for those who choose not to change fluids often. I forget the wall thickness, but it seemed like it was some 0.0005" or so (maybe even less). It was so thin that I remember that I was stunned and had to think about it for a moment before commenting, and the guy says, yeah, it's pretty thin, isn't it! (and small diameter, too).
So, if you think $20-$25 is a lot for fluid, think about how quickly problems can occur. As the markets get more competitive year by year, don't expect things to last long if you slip even one bit on maintenance. These mat'ls are life cycled, and should you push it to the limit, you've passed the threshold. Mfr's stated intervals are not even near often enough, in my opinion, for what prob should be done. Think about it, if they said to change the fluids every 3K or 15K miles or some small interval like that, consumers would say no way and go get some other model. So, marketing I'm sure has pushed the recommended intervals to the extreme in order to entice those consumers who don't want to bother w/ maintenance.
So, just thought I'd let you know this info, for those who think it's a waste to spend money on regular changes. Depending on your model year, you might just not get away w/ it as life cycle engineering becomes more and more a part of your car - and thinner mat'l.
Hope this helps somebody.
I actually don't have a Maxima... 
I have a '96 M3, so I buy BMW coolant. It's $19/gal IIRC, but I need two gallon jugs per flush/fill. Including the distilled water I need, I end up paying almost $50 per change.

I have a '96 M3, so I buy BMW coolant. It's $19/gal IIRC, but I need two gallon jugs per flush/fill. Including the distilled water I need, I end up paying almost $50 per change.
I would personally go with Nissan Long Life Coolant (it comes with a distinct deep green color), I have it on my max and no issues whatsoever. I flushed and put in a new radiator last year and don't have to deal with it for another 5 yrs.
As for the Coolant, I have to look at the bottle in the garage to get the exact wording before I can validate that question. I know its black, with a red top and a goofy graphic on the label. But I cant remember the exact wording.
5 yrs is OK as described on the label of these long life coolants. My dad had his Toyota w/o replacing his coolant for 15 yrs.. back in the 70s. He laughed at me when coolant change was 2 yrs on my schedule, so I have gone to 5 yrs /100K which ever comes early.
Um. Weren't radiators and engines and stuff made of different metals back then? A car from the 70s is not really a good basis for comparison.
Besides, a story about having had the car for 15 years "without a problem" doesn't really say much. People have run their cars for minutes at a time with no oil pressure or gone dozens of thousands of miles without an oil change and "never had a problem". That doesn't say anything about the actual condition of the engine after that abuse, much less does it mean anyone should be able to do it.
Besides, a story about having had the car for 15 years "without a problem" doesn't really say much. People have run their cars for minutes at a time with no oil pressure or gone dozens of thousands of miles without an oil change and "never had a problem". That doesn't say anything about the actual condition of the engine after that abuse, much less does it mean anyone should be able to do it.
Last edited by d00df00d; Dec 19, 2007 at 01:19 PM.
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