Bobo

Perhaps you could educate the board on why you would want to use a 15w40 dino oil. Where do you live? 5w30 is the recommended oil.

I run Esso Extra XD3 0w30 PAO full synthetic and the VQ loves it. I have owned this car since day 1 and have never added a drop of oil between oil changes.

350zMaximaownr

Loves me some mobil 1 in the Z for numerous reasons....generally the 5w30...but the 10w cuts it....and imo rotella is some cheap ish

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

Rotella blows 5w30 mobil 1 right out of the water, which is a particularly crappy oil in the M1 lineup (there are pages and pages of oil analysis threads on various oil analysis and technical oil forums that support this). the lubrication properties of M1 5W30 and 10W30 oils are not even in the same ballpark as rotella dino, let alone rotella t6 synthetic.

research oil analyses like I have and see for yourself. if you drive your car hard and want to spall the **** out of your mains and rod bearings and score up your crank by all means, keep using the 5w30 mobil 1. if you drive your car hard and want to actually keep those bearings in good shape, run a better oil, because 5w30 mobil 1 does not hold up. Mobil 1 0W40 on the other hand gets great reviews, but their 5w30 sucks, hard. if you like having an oil that doesn't provide adequate protection within 2500 miles in your car, by all means, keep using M1 5w30 or 10w30. Meanwhile, I'll keep rocking my "cheap ish" Rotella which had excellent UOA @ 4500 miles (meaning the oil was still going strong) and those 4500 miles included TWO track days racing the car and seeing oil temps up to 280*F, and 10 drag strip days, in addition to normal street driving - the oil analysis people recommended that I go 5000-5500 miles on my next change under the same conditions, or that I could go more like 7000 if I don't do any racing, Not only are my results good, ALL of the UOAs for Rotella T Synth have been stellar in the gigantic oil analysis thread on my350z. See where this is going?

Rotella is the superior oil in this comparison. Period. There is no argument.

if you drive the car easy it's likely that you won't notice a difference either way, but if you want the best oil do your research. because the oil you're using sucks, bad, and it's like 1.5 times more expensive per quart, oh and you have to change it 2x-3x as often. Awesome. So you're paying like 3-6x as much for any given oil change interval, and your chosen oil's protection is crap in comparison to the "cheap ish" you're bashing. Good choice.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

Rotella (and other diesel oils) generally provide worlds more protection under harsh operating conditions than do most normal "off the shelf" oils - there are exceptions to this of course. the fact that the VQ's design lends itself well to the properties of heavier diesel oils is a nice benefit.

recommended by the factory and best under exceptional operating conditions are often two different things.

after the analyses I've had done on my own VQ which sees racing conditions, after the analyses done on a couple other buddies who race also, I'm a firm believer in using the better regarded diesel oils in the VQ. i've done the research and participated in the tests myself, and i'm convinced.

Bobo

Obviously you are aware that Esso XD3 is a diesel oil, suitable for gasoline engines. I made the switch to it when I read a taxi driver from Saskatchewan claim on Bitog about 4.5 years ago that he ran it for 40,000 kilometres in a taxi in Saskatchewan in the winter and sent in a UOA and was told he was good to go. That seems a little hard to believe but it is formulated to handle hash winter conditions for heavy duty machinery in northern climates. It works for me.

I am a low-mileage user. I ran AutoRx through my engine before I switched to synthetic 4 years ago and with my last oil change I added 4 oz. of AutoRx to the crankcase. The owner says it should extend the OCI by 20%. I will see about that as I am only coming up to 4,000 kilometres after just over 7 months.

Shift_A32B

iTrader: (14)

I use Castrol GTX High Mileage 10w-40, I have no complains so far.

CPBOYZ

ROTELLA T6 WITH A PURELATOR PURE ONE FILTER BEST OIL OUT THERE GOT ZINC TO FIGHT RUST N PREVENT METAL TO METAL TOUCHING ITS A DESIEL OIL MADE FOR HIGH REVING

BlackMamba

iTrader: (1)

So no one will mention RP ? i have 187k and have used it (5w30) since i bought it with 80k, just once i used M1. But around 1k ago the TC started to rattle in the morning, but it goes away quickly, so i think im ok, i use pure one for the filter. And i dont rev it that often either.

CPBOYZ

ROYAL PURPLE IS GARBAGE N BAD FOR THE MOTOR ITS THE WORST OIL OVER RATED

2 GO B4

I don't usually quote my own comments but....I did mention RP before and my thoughts

BlackMamba

iTrader: (1)

I got the RP bug from this forum, and i spent a while reading about it, it was m1 or rp, i chose rp... but now ill try rotella t6 then, if the rattling ceases then ill call it a deal. Now, do you recomend T6 for florida summers ?

CPBOYZ

YUP IM IN FLORIDA N ROTELLA T6 5/40 IS ALL I USE

jviv35

Great info here...thanks to all. It's oil change time and i"m really looking into this rotella stuff. I too am in South Florida and am curious as to how well this will hold up in the heat. Also I burn some oil (plus vcg leak and rear main which will be fixed soon). I burn about 2/3 quart every 1000 miles with M1 dino 10/30 high mileage. Will more oil be sneaking past those seals? I have an 02 VQ3.5 with 120k miles and I drive 80% city (and yes I step on it every chance I get ) so protection is paramount. Any additional info helps...thanks in advance. One more thing...been using factory nissan filter. Is there a better one to be using? Again thanks in advance.

2 GO B4

That depends on how long your oil change interval is.......If you don't plan to go over 4-5K/oil change.....then I would say the Purolator PureOne (yellow) oil filter is a great bang for your buck ($5 to $6).....(read the reviews in google)....if you plan to go longer (>7K)...the I would recommend the RP oil filter....I tried it a few times and can attest to it being a solid filter but it is expensive ($15)....hope that helps....

jviv35

Thanks for the info. Pure One filter sounds fine to me with 4-5k interval. I'll give this rotella stuff a try and report my findings. So far with mobil 1 10/30 high mileage start-up is rough and valve clatter is audible for the first 10min or so. Also have the dreaded timing chain clatter that I would love to get rid of...without pulling the engine out. Tried M1 5/30 synthetic before that (which produced the valve cover and rear main leak lol) and it ran like a swiss clock, and almost as quiet too.

jviv35

Just changed the oil to shell rotella t6 5w/40 full synthetic. Got it at wallmart for $20 for 3.78L/4qt jug so had to buy a fifth quart at a lil over $6...ouch. Anyway went with M1 110 filter (much larger than 108) from autozone for $13. Expensive, maybe, but so far so good. I've only driven maybe 50-70 miles but clatter from valves is almost gone. Car feels smooth as before, but just knowing that the clatter that was there with the dino oil is almost non-existent is good enough for me. I'll post back if oil consumption gets worse...or better hopefully.

macakin

Valvoline Full Synthetic 10-W30

cmaponte6491

I use Lucas oil products...

2 GO B4

Update.....Just changed the Oil (Pennzoil Ultra with PureOne PL14610 filter) at 4.5K ..... I sent this in for a used oil analysis (last one was 20K ago and all was very good)....I said this before somewhere (not sure if it was this oil post or another)....but this oil/filter combination is outstanding in this VQ engine (at least from my driving observations and the way the oil looked at oil change.....still golden at 4.5 K!)....the car was still driving nice and smooth and I am sure I can go longer on this combo...thus I am sending in the UOA to see what they say....will let you guys know what the analysis shows.....peace

SilverMax_04

I now take my motor oil (Mobil 1) and filter to 10 K miles between changes. The lab continues to tell me that there is life remaining in my used motor oil. But I don't like to push the filter past 10 K, so change it all at that point. I also continue to lab-check the used oil after every change. (I found anti-freeze in motor oil from my Dodge pickup, so believe this lab test with every change is worth the money.)

I'll bet you could go way past 4.5 K with your combo. You should at least try going to 7.5 K (the maximum that my owner's manual says that Nissan recommends). I changed at that distance so long as my VQ engine was under warranty. When the warrenty ended, I went to 10 K miles and never looked back.

Cajvpetan

Castrol GRTX high mileage

DMAXI06

Royal Purple 5W 30. It does the job pretty well.

sasha87

castrol edge w syntec 5w30. next fill will be castrol edge titanium. oil filter generally is k&n hp1010. or purolator pureone 14610 or mobil one m1-110. stay away from the m1-108 or hp1008 filter. the oil i will never use is almost everything else. #1 on the list is valvoline #2 is pennzoil or quaker state since both are made by sopus.

T.One

My favorite brand oil is pennzoil.

I have used every kind of pennzoil except euro

Regular pennzoil was probably the worst of them from lasting long. When i change oil, i use the whole 5qt jug since it takes 4 3/4. When i changed it, i only got 2 qts back. The oil is getting burned up alot more than any other pennzoil ive used.

Pennzoil hi milage was pretty good. Though it still a dino oil, it held up pretty good compared to synthetic. The pinging i heard with the regular was not present when i used this type. I got 2qts back

Pennzoil platinum was real good when it came to performance. It held its end uo really well with keeping everything all nice and shiny inside. When it was time to change, i got back 3qts.

Pennzoil ultra was the best at not burning away. I did not feel any different with the ultra than when i ran plat. I got anlil more than 3qts back.

MaxLoverAz

iTrader: (1)

I use Red Line 5W-30, it has a thicker oil film at operating temperature than a petroleum 10W40, flows much faster than T6 at 40°C and 100°C, has a high natural viscosity index of 162 (VI) which provides thicker oil film in bearings and cams and the HTHS is 3.8cP. Remember thin as possible and only thick as you need. 90% of wear is at startup, you need a thinner more viscous oil not thicker...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/in...=article&id=83

ProjectX7

Castrol Edge....5W-30

audipat2345

amsoil has been treating me good in all my cars

Panimal

I used Castrol Syntec 0w-30 in my old car (Cobra) and just picked up my 04 Maxima and will probably just stick with that.

vfrpilot28

I've used Rotella T in my motorcycles and cars for years. If you "search" there is more than ample evidence about how awesome of a product it is.

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

Amsoil XL 10w30

Even stopped my oil burning diamante from burning oil for a short while.

But hey, oil burners gon' burn oil.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

VQ35 loves M1 0w40

crazy97

iTrader: (1)

I put this stuff in last week. Hope it reduces oil consumption.

nismopc

iTrader: (3)

Castrol GTX 5W30 is my 1st choice, then Castrol GTX High Mileage 5W30 when the time came, but I've been using Walmart SuperTech High Mileage 5W30 for the past several oil changes because of the cost and several reports I've read online about the quality.

MrGone

iTrader: (30)

I know it's an old thread, I'd say Rotella T6 because it is one of the few oils that can stand up to the shearing effect of my motorcycles transmission and offers adequate protection for the valve train in my Mustang.

I'm still skeptical to run it in my BMWs because of the higher phosphorus levels and how much more accurate BMWs can monitor catalyst function, but I use Rotella T5 or Mobil Delvac 1300 (which ever one is cheaper) in high mileage cars

DrewSER

I'll start by saying that I drive my car pretty hard. I certainly didn't by this car 90k ago and put money into it to drive back and forth from church on Sunday. I change my oil every 3k because I'm always concerned about fuel dilution. My Z ran pig rich and I'm sure my SER does as well. I was always a M1 5W-30/M1 filter guy but after reading more and more articles I thought for the sake of my motor it was best to change. I kept the M1 filter and switched to Pennzoil Ultra. The first oil change I was a little surprised by how dark the oil was (I attribute this to the cleansing properties of the oil) but every oil change since still has practically the same gold color as when it went in. I've never had to add oil between changes but have noticed that I'm burning/breathing (through the PCV) more oil than before. Catch can is a winter project but I'm amazed at how much oil I found in my intake manifold.

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

I always use the Castro GTX, going to look into that Super Tech...

PetitFrereMaxima

iTrader: (2)

I have always been using M1 EP with M1 EP filter and I do always 10k oil changes. I have done this 5 times now. So, for 50,000miles now. I will be hitting 100K on odometer in about 2 weeks. Then, I want to give Castrol Edge Titanium a shot with K&N filter and I will still go for 10k miles before changing my oil.

iDuty

Don't confuse the marketing with the product. You think they use that Mobil we can buy at Walmart in Formula 1 race cars? I doubt it, race oils are formulated with different objectives than oil for street vehicles. And Formula 1 engines are rebuilt frequently, we expect our VQ to last over 200,000 miles with no rebuilds.

DrewSER

If only we could rev the VQ out to 18k rpms...

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

ive ran Royal Purple 5W30 in the Supra and 10W30 in the KingCab and both like it. gear oil i use Redline, huge difference in the truck and they still make GL-4 tranny fluid. when the Supra gets the new tranny in it Redline goes in too