Tried to Remove Strut Bolts With Socket Wrench
Tried to Remove Strut Bolts With Socket Wrench
Used a long breaker bar and PB Blaster, but boy were those mothers rusted on there. Luckily the two sockets are Craftsman so I'll get some free replacements.


Tomorrow I'm going to use air tools (didn't have the compressor today)....


Tomorrow I'm going to use air tools (didn't have the compressor today)....
dude, in all my days and years of working on cars I have never had tools fail like that. ESPECIALLY Craftsman, did you have them on straight when using them? something went wrong, that should not have happened. At any rate, take them back to Sears and get new ones at no charge with no receipt.
Yes, on straight and yes, I was surprised that I broke them. I was using a breaker bar about 2.5 feet long, and that's quite a bit of force. I wasn't going the wrong way or anything because I got one bolt loose before breaking the extension and then two sockets.
BTW the extension doesn't say Craftsman so I assume it's generic/cheapo.
Keep in mind you live in SoCal and may not be familiar with cars with 5+ years of RUST. Rust is amazingly good at fusing metal parts together.
BTW the extension doesn't say Craftsman so I assume it's generic/cheapo.
Keep in mind you live in SoCal and may not be familiar with cars with 5+ years of RUST. Rust is amazingly good at fusing metal parts together.
I've seen that before too. If you use impact sockets and extensions they are much stronger. Never had a 1/2" breaker bar bust on me though, even with two feet of pipe off the end. I have seen them break though where the socket attaches a couple times.
I will be buying craftsmen in the future, but trying to take a wheel of after those ****s at the tire stores crank them on with a million-lb of torque impact tool I've broken now two wheel studs and also an extention (it was a walmart cheapy one), all three times using my breaker bar.
I dunno about you guys but I feel manly when I am strong enough to break a tool and I know that the tool failed me, and not the other way around
I dunno about you guys but I feel manly when I am strong enough to break a tool and I know that the tool failed me, and not the other way around
Originally Posted by Masaccio
Used a long breaker bar and PB Blaster, but boy were those mothers rusted on there. Luckily the two sockets are Craftsman so I'll get some free replacements.


Tomorrow I'm going to use air tools (didn't have the compressor today)....


Tomorrow I'm going to use air tools (didn't have the compressor today)....
Ya, 3/8" drive. Don't have 1/2" drive in a 17mm socket. Impact will do the trick.
SkoorbMax, I hear you. I thought the bolt was finally loosening with a satisfying little jerk, but then I saw I'd wrecked the socket and thought, damn, I'm strong!
SkoorbMax, I hear you. I thought the bolt was finally loosening with a satisfying little jerk, but then I saw I'd wrecked the socket and thought, damn, I'm strong!
Originally Posted by Masaccio
Ya, 3/8" drive. Don't have 1/2" drive in a 17mm socket. Impact will do the trick.
SkoorbMax, I hear you. I thought the bolt was finally loosening with a satisfying little jerk, but then I saw I'd wrecked the socket and thought, damn, I'm strong!
SkoorbMax, I hear you. I thought the bolt was finally loosening with a satisfying little jerk, but then I saw I'd wrecked the socket and thought, damn, I'm strong!
I'm suprised nobody has noticed this. Tom it looks like the sockets took a beating but it is totally okay to use the impact sockets on a regular socket wrench. There should be a 1/2" extension and swivel somewhere in the toolbox. Those fxckers won't break.
eh wait why would you need an extension in the first place to loosen strut bolts? would it not clear the fender or soemthing when you used the breaker bar? there should be enough room to use a standard socket wrench (wiht no extenstion) and breaker bar. i think thats why it broke... i could be wrong tho.
but still those bolts are held on there pretty tight if you broke something like that. did you WD40 those mothers? dunno if its safe to.
but still those bolts are held on there pretty tight if you broke something like that. did you WD40 those mothers? dunno if its safe to.
Originally Posted by broaner22
I'm suprised nobody has noticed this. Tom it looks like the sockets took a beating but it is totally okay to use the impact sockets on a regular socket wrench. There should be a 1/2" extension and swivel somewhere in the toolbox. Those fxckers won't break.
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
I bet you were trying to loosen the bolt side not the nut side. I broke an impact socket (cheap one though) cranking on the bolt side.
Originally Posted by charliekilo3
I was trying to remove the rockguard bolts on a bulldozer. There are no nuts on them. They tend to get rusted into the bolt holes.
uuhhhh...OK....great?? I did not quote your post.....it was directed twords the one who started this thread.
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
I bet you were trying to loosen the bolt side not the nut side. I broke an impact socket (cheap one though) cranking on the bolt side.
Give me a reason why it would matter one way or the other, because I can't think of one.
Originally Posted by Masaccio
I didn't have a socket deep enough to put on the nut end because of the amount of bolt thread sticking out.
Give me a reason why it would matter one way or the other, because I can't think of one.
Give me a reason why it would matter one way or the other, because I can't think of one.
I have removed those bolts many, many times. I only had problems one time, and that was when I was trying to remove the bolt side and not the nut side. that was when I broke my impact socket (not using an impact gun)
the sockets are 1) not deep enough, 2) 12 point (the 6 point looks like china crap to me), 3) not impact sockets, and 4) 3/8" drive....but ive been in the same boat it stinks. The best deep impact metric socket set for the money is at Wal-Mart, its 1/2" drive and under $20 for the set, 10mm to 23 or 24mm. Then get the Huskey (homedepot) or Crappsmen 1/2" breaker bar and ratchet. Good luck next time.
Originally Posted by Kashoggio
craftsman suck.... snap on is the best
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Because it's harder to turn the whole bolt than just the nut. The bolt may be wedged against the steering knuckle in a way that won't allow it to turn.
I have removed those bolts many, many times. I only had problems one time, and that was when I was trying to remove the bolt side and not the nut side. that was when I broke my impact socket (not using an impact gun)
I have removed those bolts many, many times. I only had problems one time, and that was when I was trying to remove the bolt side and not the nut side. that was when I broke my impact socket (not using an impact gun)
Originally Posted by Maxima10to1
the sockets are 1) not deep enough, 2) 12 point (the 6 point looks like china crap to me), 3) not impact sockets, and 4) 3/8" drive....but ive been in the same boat it stinks. The best deep impact metric socket set for the money is at Wal-Mart, its 1/2" drive and under $20 for the set, 10mm to 23 or 24mm. Then get the Huskey (homedepot) or Crappsmen 1/2" breaker bar and ratchet. Good luck next time.
Again, it was only a last resort that I was using 3/8" drive regular sockets because the friend that was supposed to bring over the compressor for the air tools failed to do so but I still really wanted to put on my new struts/springs.
Tom, this is how I did it the first time. This was before I had the compressor. I used the 17mm and 19mm box end wrench. We put rags around the handles of each and pulled in the opposite direction(Me in one, Ross in the other) It took many tries to break it loose. Now, w/ the compressor its very easy. Wrench on nut side, impact wrench on the other. Seeing as I adjust my camber once a month this is a three finger job really. The first time is always the hardest especially since its a northern car.
Originally Posted by broaner22
The first time is always the hardest
j/k
Thanks Broaner. Gonna try it tonight, as long as Ross didn't sneak back and take his compressor back. He's not answering either phone right now.
I actually broke the ratcheting part of a 1/2" drive. Ok Ok I was using a 4' breaker bar that I slipped over the 1/2" drive.
The guy at Sears was astounded. After he handed me my new 1/2" drive he said OK now that you have your free replacement tell me just how long was the extention that you put on the end.
Oh yea I was trying to remove a rusted on castel nut holding the rear wheel of a 71 VW onto the axel.
Mr. P
The guy at Sears was astounded. After he handed me my new 1/2" drive he said OK now that you have your free replacement tell me just how long was the extention that you put on the end.
Oh yea I was trying to remove a rusted on castel nut holding the rear wheel of a 71 VW onto the axel.
Mr. P
Originally Posted by charliekilo3
Care to elaborate on why they suck? Craftsman tools have the same warranty as Snap-On tools do except it's easier to get a Craftsman tools replaced by just taking it to your local Sears store. With those high priced Snap-On tools, you have to wait for the tool truck to come by to get a replacement. I have both brands and Craftsman is all the average mechanically inclined person needs. I have seen many different brands of tools fail.
Originally Posted by Kashoggio
craftsman tools are very poorly designed, as well as the cheap materials they use. I use my tools everyday, thats what i get paid for. I have used craftsman tools and they cant take a beating but for a home user I guess they do just fine.
Originally Posted by charliekilo3
I kind of figured that you were a gearhead when you spoke well of Snap-on tools. I like the quality but hate the prices. I work as an equipment mechanic for the state of Florida. We don't have to supply our own tools so I am lucky in that respect.




