Oscillating Vibration Solved......for me
Oscillating Vibration Solved......for me
Hey guys,
For those of you who don't know, I just put on a set of Ronal rims. After I installed the rims (had them mounted and balanced on a Hunter) I had an oscillating vibration at around 60 miles an hour. Well, last week I finally finished my suspension work (maxspeeds and AGX) and it was still there. Well, when I took my car in for the front end alignment I asked for my printout, and this is what I got back: (Bold numbers are OUT of spec)
BEFORE
Left Front:---------- Right Front:
Camber: -.3 -------- Camber: -.8
Caster: 2.3 ------------ Caster: 2.5
Toe: -.09 ---------------Toe: -.12
Total Toe -.21
Steer Ahead .01
Left Rear: ---------- Right Rear:
Camber: -1.1 ------- Camber: -1.1
Toe .27 ------------- Toe: .01
Total Toe: .29
Thrust Angle .13
AFTER
Left Front:---------- Right Front:
Camber -.4 ------- Camber -.7
Caster 2.3 -------- Caster 2.5
Toe .1 ------------- Toe .12
Total Toe .23
Steer Ahead -.01
Left Rear: ---------- Right Rear:
Camber -1.2 ----- Camber -1.1
Toe .24 ----------- Toe -.01
Total Toe .24
Thrust Angle .12
So now my car tracks perfectly down the road, and my vibration has completely stopped. Those tiny differences in the numbers made a night and day difference in the driveability of my car.
My mechanic said that the rear left toe is still out of spec (I only got front wheel alignment, because that's all you can do on the Max) but it is only off by a very, very small amount. He said not to worry about it.
The moral of the story is to get an alignment after lowering your car. I know everyone preaches this, but here is proof. Numbers. If you think you can get away with not getting an alignment after modifying your suspension you're mistaken. I hope this helps anyone who is having the same problem.
***EDIT***
In case anyone cares, the rear toe is out of spec by .02 degrees.
For those of you who don't know, I just put on a set of Ronal rims. After I installed the rims (had them mounted and balanced on a Hunter) I had an oscillating vibration at around 60 miles an hour. Well, last week I finally finished my suspension work (maxspeeds and AGX) and it was still there. Well, when I took my car in for the front end alignment I asked for my printout, and this is what I got back: (Bold numbers are OUT of spec)
BEFORE
Left Front:---------- Right Front:
Camber: -.3 -------- Camber: -.8
Caster: 2.3 ------------ Caster: 2.5
Toe: -.09 ---------------Toe: -.12
Total Toe -.21
Steer Ahead .01
Left Rear: ---------- Right Rear:
Camber: -1.1 ------- Camber: -1.1
Toe .27 ------------- Toe: .01
Total Toe: .29
Thrust Angle .13
AFTER
Left Front:---------- Right Front:
Camber -.4 ------- Camber -.7
Caster 2.3 -------- Caster 2.5
Toe .1 ------------- Toe .12
Total Toe .23
Steer Ahead -.01
Left Rear: ---------- Right Rear:
Camber -1.2 ----- Camber -1.1
Toe .24 ----------- Toe -.01
Total Toe .24
Thrust Angle .12
So now my car tracks perfectly down the road, and my vibration has completely stopped. Those tiny differences in the numbers made a night and day difference in the driveability of my car.
My mechanic said that the rear left toe is still out of spec (I only got front wheel alignment, because that's all you can do on the Max) but it is only off by a very, very small amount. He said not to worry about it.
The moral of the story is to get an alignment after lowering your car. I know everyone preaches this, but here is proof. Numbers. If you think you can get away with not getting an alignment after modifying your suspension you're mistaken. I hope this helps anyone who is having the same problem.
***EDIT***
In case anyone cares, the rear toe is out of spec by .02 degrees.
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