First time spraying...LOTS of questions [LONG]
10-23-2002, 02:45 PM
#41
Okay, went out again!
Put in the biggest jet that I have as the bypass jet. .047". So now i had a .047" bypass and .036" NOS. I got about 66-68psi of FP. Did another run and still didn't feel a lot. So I went back home.
However, just before getting to my house I did a quick WOT run in 2nd gear, pulled in my driveway, hopped out and took a look. Sure enough the connection to the nossel in the intake was frosted over, so I'm sure that the damn thing is spraying.
Which, now leads me to being just plain rich. I turned down the FP to about 62psi using the FPR, and didn't see much improvement. Checked the plugs again and they look fine. Ceramic part is bright white and the ground strap is white/grey. NO blue. It really should be blue, right? Not like a lighter gray color?
EGT's still in the 1200'sF. This just doesn't seem right.
So am I not getting enough nitrous into the intake? Does the valve on the bottle have to be open ALL the way? I just open it until the pressure stops going up. Not until it won't open anymore.
This time I had a little over 1000psi of pressure. Same plugs and everything else.
[EDIT]
The only conclusion that I can come to is that my engine is making so much power already, 70hp more is nothing!
[/EDIT]
Put in the biggest jet that I have as the bypass jet. .047". So now i had a .047" bypass and .036" NOS. I got about 66-68psi of FP. Did another run and still didn't feel a lot. So I went back home.
However, just before getting to my house I did a quick WOT run in 2nd gear, pulled in my driveway, hopped out and took a look. Sure enough the connection to the nossel in the intake was frosted over, so I'm sure that the damn thing is spraying.
Which, now leads me to being just plain rich. I turned down the FP to about 62psi using the FPR, and didn't see much improvement. Checked the plugs again and they look fine. Ceramic part is bright white and the ground strap is white/grey. NO blue. It really should be blue, right? Not like a lighter gray color?
EGT's still in the 1200'sF. This just doesn't seem right.
So am I not getting enough nitrous into the intake? Does the valve on the bottle have to be open ALL the way? I just open it until the pressure stops going up. Not until it won't open anymore.
This time I had a little over 1000psi of pressure. Same plugs and everything else.
[EDIT]
The only conclusion that I can come to is that my engine is making so much power already, 70hp more is nothing!
[/EDIT]
10-23-2002, 03:03 PM
#42
Ehh i doubt it will make a difference but yeah you should open it up all the way to where you cant turn it anymore.
You dont really need to have blue on the strap but it usually will give you the best performance.
If you do a run without the nitrous the fuel pressure is like 43-44 psi right, and if you are running WOT and hit the switch the fuel pressure bumps up to 68 or so which it sounds like it is. That means it is spraying.
I cant figure out what is going on, but something is still no right
You dont really need to have blue on the strap but it usually will give you the best performance.
If you do a run without the nitrous the fuel pressure is like 43-44 psi right, and if you are running WOT and hit the switch the fuel pressure bumps up to 68 or so which it sounds like it is. That means it is spraying.
I cant figure out what is going on, but something is still no right
10-23-2002, 03:05 PM
#43
Originally posted by matt calder
Ehh i doubt it will make a difference but yeah you should open it up all the way to where you cant turn it anymore.
You dont really need to have blue on the strap but it usually will give you the best performance.
If you do a run without the nitrous the fuel pressure is like 43-44 psi right, and if you are running WOT and hit the switch the fuel pressure bumps up to 68 or so which it sounds like it is. That means it is spraying.
I cant figure out what is going on, but something is still no right
Ehh i doubt it will make a difference but yeah you should open it up all the way to where you cant turn it anymore.
You dont really need to have blue on the strap but it usually will give you the best performance.
If you do a run without the nitrous the fuel pressure is like 43-44 psi right, and if you are running WOT and hit the switch the fuel pressure bumps up to 68 or so which it sounds like it is. That means it is spraying.
I cant figure out what is going on, but something is still no right
I've got it down now to one of two things:
1) I'm still way too rich
2) I'm just expecting too much
Dunno which. I'll know for sure on Sunday though.
10-23-2002, 03:38 PM
#46
Originally posted by SprintMax
if the nozzle is frosted over.. doesn't that mean its leaking?
and another thing.. are you sure the nozzle is pointing towards the TB?
trust me i am guilty of that too
if the nozzle is frosted over.. doesn't that mean its leaking?
and another thing.. are you sure the nozzle is pointing towards the TB?
trust me i am guilty of that too
I don't the frosting means its leaking...I think its just from the cold gas against the warm(er) outside air.
10-23-2002, 03:44 PM
#47
Originally posted by ejj
It is pointed towards the TB. Checked that lots.
I don't the frosting means its leaking...I think its just from the cold gas against the warm(er) outside air.
It is pointed towards the TB. Checked that lots.
I don't the frosting means its leaking...I think its just from the cold gas against the warm(er) outside air.
here is what you do... if you have a CAI.. disconnect it from the TB... or if you have an intake with a midpipe disconnect it from the TB.. then do your test.. have someone rev the car up .. no please ensure that the pipe with the nozzle in it is not pointing in the TB.. i don't want you to blow your engine..then do your test.. see if the bottom of the nozzle is frosted..that means that its leaking also you might want to check your SS lines for leaks too
10-23-2002, 04:03 PM
#48
Originally posted by SprintMax
no that means its leaking.. i have done Nitrous runs and opened up the engine after and i have not seen any frost..
here is what you do... if you have a CAI.. disconnect it from the TB... or if you have an intake with a midpipe disconnect it from the TB.. then do your test.. have someone rev the car up .. no please ensure that the pipe with the nozzle in it is not pointing in the TB.. i don't want you to blow your engine..then do your test.. see if the bottom of the nozzle is frosted..that means that its leaking also you might want to check your SS lines for leaks too
no that means its leaking.. i have done Nitrous runs and opened up the engine after and i have not seen any frost..
here is what you do... if you have a CAI.. disconnect it from the TB... or if you have an intake with a midpipe disconnect it from the TB.. then do your test.. have someone rev the car up .. no please ensure that the pipe with the nozzle in it is not pointing in the TB.. i don't want you to blow your engine..then do your test.. see if the bottom of the nozzle is frosted..that means that its leaking also you might want to check your SS lines for leaks too
10-23-2002, 07:11 PM
#50
Originally posted by SprintMax
i have done it mutiple times
i have done it mutiple times
Bottom line, the damn thing is spraying and its just either too rich or my expectations are way off.
Thanks for the help though!
10-23-2002, 09:55 PM
#51
Originally posted by ejj
Regardless...I took the entire nossle (jet and fan nossle) out of the intake this evening, sprays strong, no leaks.
Bottom line, the damn thing is spraying and its just either too rich or my expectations are way off.
Thanks for the help though!
Regardless...I took the entire nossle (jet and fan nossle) out of the intake this evening, sprays strong, no leaks.
Bottom line, the damn thing is spraying and its just either too rich or my expectations are way off.
Thanks for the help though!
When I had a 70-shot if I started low in second and went WOT at about 2K, then let the RPM switch kick the nitrous in at 3400, my car would BREAK THE TIRES LOOSE when the nitrous came in...that's how much you can feel it.
ONE LAST IDEA....and this could be out there...but hear me out. Some places have been know to give BAD nitrous. I'd trying emptying your bottle out completely, and going to another shop to fill it up. That could be just how simple it really is.
10-23-2002, 10:21 PM
#52
Exactly....
Originally posted by BriGuyMax
ONE LAST IDEA....and this could be out there...but hear me out. Some places have been know to give BAD nitrous. I'd trying emptying your bottle out completely, and going to another shop to fill it up. That could be just how simple it really is.
ONE LAST IDEA....and this could be out there...but hear me out. Some places have been know to give BAD nitrous. I'd trying emptying your bottle out completely, and going to another shop to fill it up. That could be just how simple it really is.
Really, how could you tell? It's cold, white, and will dilute the air mixture producing no power.
It smells like sulfer(rotten eggs), right?
10-24-2002, 01:48 AM
#53
ejj did you ever get your system to work.
i remember i was having similar problems with my NOS kit. when i tested everything it would work when i went out on a road test it didn't work. i checked everything twice three times still everything worked but didn' seem to work under load.
my problem was the WOT switch. i had it postion from what i could tell was right on heard the click and everything. but when i took my car out for a spin it did not seem faster. what happened was the way i had mounted the switch it was not activating poperly. i tested it with a test light.
this is what i did. i took a test light and i clipped on part of the light to the wot switch. then i stuck sharp end of the test light into the + on the battery terminal. sat in my car and pressed the peddle all the way down. low and behold the light did not turn on. so i tried pressing the wot with my hand and the light came one. i ended up repositioning the wot switch until i got a solid light no matter what.
hope this helps
i remeber i was just about ready to pull my nitrous system out of the car till someone told me to check the wot switch.
its usually the one thing that you wouldn't think to check.
i remember i was having similar problems with my NOS kit. when i tested everything it would work when i went out on a road test it didn't work. i checked everything twice three times still everything worked but didn' seem to work under load.
my problem was the WOT switch. i had it postion from what i could tell was right on heard the click and everything. but when i took my car out for a spin it did not seem faster. what happened was the way i had mounted the switch it was not activating poperly. i tested it with a test light.
this is what i did. i took a test light and i clipped on part of the light to the wot switch. then i stuck sharp end of the test light into the + on the battery terminal. sat in my car and pressed the peddle all the way down. low and behold the light did not turn on. so i tried pressing the wot with my hand and the light came one. i ended up repositioning the wot switch until i got a solid light no matter what.
hope this helps
i remeber i was just about ready to pull my nitrous system out of the car till someone told me to check the wot switch.
its usually the one thing that you wouldn't think to check.
10-24-2002, 07:58 AM
#55
Yeah, the system is spraying.
I'm going to do 1 more check today for leaks over the entire system. If that doesn't turn anything up, then I'm going to take your advice and get the bottle re-filled elsewhere.
The system has not broken the tires loose since I've started using it. That's good to know that its not just me expecting too much.
Thanks for all the help!
I'm going to do 1 more check today for leaks over the entire system. If that doesn't turn anything up, then I'm going to take your advice and get the bottle re-filled elsewhere.
The system has not broken the tires loose since I've started using it. That's good to know that its not just me expecting too much.
Thanks for all the help!
10-24-2002, 08:05 AM
#56
i troubled shooted for 3 weeks with mine before it actually worked
same issues.. my problem was nozzle pointing the wrong way and running way too rich..
but with a .049 jet you will be getting a big **** kick
same issues.. my problem was nozzle pointing the wrong way and running way too rich..
but with a .049 jet you will be getting a big **** kick
10-24-2002, 09:12 AM
#57
Okay...just did another leak test.
This time I noticed that there is gas (nitrous I would assume) venting from that extra hole in the side of the nitrous pressure regulator.
Is this normal?
Other than that the system is leak free.
This time I noticed that there is gas (nitrous I would assume) venting from that extra hole in the side of the nitrous pressure regulator.
Is this normal?
Other than that the system is leak free.
10-24-2002, 09:19 AM
#59
Originally posted by matt calder
There shouldnt be any gas leaking from anywhere. You said that you bought the kit already put together, so maybe if you take it all apart(solenoids, regulater, etc) and put it back together will fix it.
There shouldnt be any gas leaking from anywhere. You said that you bought the kit already put together, so maybe if you take it all apart(solenoids, regulater, etc) and put it back together will fix it.
10-24-2002, 09:30 AM
#60
Originally posted by ejj
Bummer. That means if that's the case its an internal problem with the nitrous pressure regulator, and I have to take the damn thing apart!
Bummer. That means if that's the case its an internal problem with the nitrous pressure regulator, and I have to take the damn thing apart!
10-24-2002, 10:32 AM
#61
Originally posted by SprintMax
no disconnect that area . .get some teflon paste and tighten it up.. thats why are not feeling it.. the nitrous is leaking
no disconnect that area . .get some teflon paste and tighten it up.. thats why are not feeling it.. the nitrous is leaking
I suspect that nitrous was getting past the top o-ring, and venting out of that hole.
Took it out for a spin and it felt better, but not where I think it should be yet. I can't find any other leaks.
70 shot, 70psi, 1300ish EGT's (I bearly get to 1400 NA on this street I'm using).
I guess I'm getting closer. Still NO blue on the plugs.
10-24-2002, 11:05 AM
#63
Originally posted by BriGuyMax
now you're getting somewhere...a little leaner and better fixed leaks...and you'll be set...
now you're getting somewhere...a little leaner and better fixed leaks...and you'll be set...
Its just seems to climb faster than normal.
10-24-2002, 11:25 AM
#64
glad to here you are going some where.
now i have been having these problems with my fuel pressure that i have yet to solve.
with a .53 fuel jet and and my fuel pressure is at 89 psi. i have yet to be able to get it below that point. i went as far as drilling out a .32 jet to the point where there was barley even any of the jet left and my fuel pressure the moost it droped was to 83psi.
bottle pressure is at about 900 at all these times. what can be wrong do i have a bad nitrous presure regulator or what. i bought the kit used sould i maybe look into getting a new nitrous presure regulator???
now i have been having these problems with my fuel pressure that i have yet to solve.
with a .53 fuel jet and and my fuel pressure is at 89 psi. i have yet to be able to get it below that point. i went as far as drilling out a .32 jet to the point where there was barley even any of the jet left and my fuel pressure the moost it droped was to 83psi.
bottle pressure is at about 900 at all these times. what can be wrong do i have a bad nitrous presure regulator or what. i bought the kit used sould i maybe look into getting a new nitrous presure regulator???
10-24-2002, 12:12 PM
#65
Originally posted by jdmmax
glad to here you are going some where.
now i have been having these problems with my fuel pressure that i have yet to solve.
with a .53 fuel jet and and my fuel pressure is at 89 psi. i have yet to be able to get it below that point. i went as far as drilling out a .32 jet to the point where there was barley even any of the jet left and my fuel pressure the moost it droped was to 83psi.
bottle pressure is at about 900 at all these times. what can be wrong do i have a bad nitrous presure regulator or what. i bought the kit used sould i maybe look into getting a new nitrous presure regulator???
glad to here you are going some where.
now i have been having these problems with my fuel pressure that i have yet to solve.
with a .53 fuel jet and and my fuel pressure is at 89 psi. i have yet to be able to get it below that point. i went as far as drilling out a .32 jet to the point where there was barley even any of the jet left and my fuel pressure the moost it droped was to 83psi.
bottle pressure is at about 900 at all these times. what can be wrong do i have a bad nitrous presure regulator or what. i bought the kit used sould i maybe look into getting a new nitrous presure regulator???
If it is sticking, that will fix it.
10-28-2002, 01:21 PM
#66
Problem Solved
Man this was a pain in the ***.
This morning I went elsewhere to get the bottle filled. A machine shop about 15 miles away. While he was filling the bottle (we were the only 2 in shop) I asked him how likely it was that I got bad nitrous. He didn't think so, especially because all areas shops buy from the same supplier. He then went on to say that the only way was if they switched bottles on the filling station and didn't purge the system. This got me to thinking...they DID switch bottles, and maybe they didn't purge, giving me 2lbs of nitrous and 8lbs of compressed air! Just maybe this would fix it!
Went home, hooked it all up, tried it, and it still wasn't working. Bummer.
I take the nossle out of the intake again, and sure enough its still spraying. So I'm stumped, so I take everything apart. Nitrous pressure regulator, solenoids, everything. While I'm doing that I look at the filter. Still looks clean to me. But this time I hold it up to a light and its almost all blocked!
At this point I have the main feed line in the engine bay unhooked from everything. I hold it and have my gf come out and open the bottle. Strong spray, stops as soon as she closes it. Then I put the filter fitting back in. Weak *** spray, and after she closes the bottle it continues on for about 40 seconds!
So, I put the filter in the main line backwards, open the bottle, blow any **** out of there. Put it back on correctly and I get the same spray that I was getting without the filter in place!
Put the entire system back together, and go out for a run. Holy ****! I wasn't expecting enough. All second gear runs, the tires chirp hard (new tires) and I get thrown back in the seat. This is what I was expecting! EGT's got up to about 1400, and there's a slight hint of blue on the ground straps. I think I'm still a tad rich, but now I can work with it!
Thanks everyone for all the help! I knew I'd get it eventually!
10-28-2002, 01:26 PM
#67
Re: Problem Solved
Originally posted by ejj
Man this was a pain in the ***.
This morning I went elsewhere to get the bottle filled. A machine shop about 15 miles away. While he was filling the bottle (we were the only 2 in shop) I asked him how likely it was that I got bad nitrous. He didn't think so, especially because all areas shops buy from the same supplier. He then went on to say that the only way was if they switched bottles on the filling station and didn't purge the system. This got me to thinking...they DID switch bottles, and maybe they didn't purge, giving me 2lbs of nitrous and 8lbs of compressed air! Just maybe this would fix it!
Went home, hooked it all up, tried it, and it still wasn't working. Bummer.
I take the nossle out of the intake again, and sure enough its still spraying. So I'm stumped, so I take everything apart. Nitrous pressure regulator, solenoids, everything. While I'm doing that I look at the filter. Still looks clean to me. But this time I hold it up to a light and its almost all blocked!
At this point I have the main feed line in the engine bay unhooked from everything. I hold it and have my gf come out and open the bottle. Strong spray, stops as soon as she closes it. Then I put the filter fitting back in. Weak *** spray, and after she closes the bottle it continues on for about 40 seconds!
So, I put the filter in the main line backwards, open the bottle, blow any **** out of there. Put it back on correctly and I get the same spray that I was getting without the filter in place!
Put the entire system back together, and go out for a run. Holy ****! I wasn't expecting enough. All second gear runs, the tires chirp hard (new tires) and I get thrown back in the seat. This is what I was expecting! EGT's got up to about 1400, and there's a slight hint of blue on the ground straps. I think I'm still a tad rich, but now I can work with it!
Thanks everyone for all the help! I knew I'd get it eventually!
Man this was a pain in the ***.
This morning I went elsewhere to get the bottle filled. A machine shop about 15 miles away. While he was filling the bottle (we were the only 2 in shop) I asked him how likely it was that I got bad nitrous. He didn't think so, especially because all areas shops buy from the same supplier. He then went on to say that the only way was if they switched bottles on the filling station and didn't purge the system. This got me to thinking...they DID switch bottles, and maybe they didn't purge, giving me 2lbs of nitrous and 8lbs of compressed air! Just maybe this would fix it!
Went home, hooked it all up, tried it, and it still wasn't working. Bummer.
I take the nossle out of the intake again, and sure enough its still spraying. So I'm stumped, so I take everything apart. Nitrous pressure regulator, solenoids, everything. While I'm doing that I look at the filter. Still looks clean to me. But this time I hold it up to a light and its almost all blocked!
At this point I have the main feed line in the engine bay unhooked from everything. I hold it and have my gf come out and open the bottle. Strong spray, stops as soon as she closes it. Then I put the filter fitting back in. Weak *** spray, and after she closes the bottle it continues on for about 40 seconds!
So, I put the filter in the main line backwards, open the bottle, blow any **** out of there. Put it back on correctly and I get the same spray that I was getting without the filter in place!
Put the entire system back together, and go out for a run. Holy ****! I wasn't expecting enough. All second gear runs, the tires chirp hard (new tires) and I get thrown back in the seat. This is what I was expecting! EGT's got up to about 1400, and there's a slight hint of blue on the ground straps. I think I'm still a tad rich, but now I can work with it!
Thanks everyone for all the help! I knew I'd get it eventually!
Enjoy the power!!!
just for reference...what jets are you running when you sprayed? What fuel pressure are you running on and off the bottle when you got around 1400 EGT??
10-28-2002, 01:29 PM
#68
Re: Re: Problem Solved
Originally posted by BriGuyMax
Congrats dude!!! I knew you'd get to the bottom if it sooner or later
Enjoy the power!!!
just for reference...what jets are you running when you sprayed? What fuel pressure are you running on and off the bottle when you got around 1400 EGT??
Congrats dude!!! I knew you'd get to the bottom if it sooner or later
Enjoy the power!!!
just for reference...what jets are you running when you sprayed? What fuel pressure are you running on and off the bottle when you got around 1400 EGT??
.036" Nitrous, .042" Bypass. About 72-74psi fuel pressure.
Off the bottle:
42psi fuel pressure (Stock is 43psi).
10-28-2002, 01:31 PM
#69
Re: Re: Re: Problem Solved
Originally posted by ejj
On the bottle:
.036" Nitrous, .042" Bypass. About 72-74psi fuel pressure.
Off the bottle:
42psi fuel pressure (Stock is 43psi).
On the bottle:
.036" Nitrous, .042" Bypass. About 72-74psi fuel pressure.
Off the bottle:
42psi fuel pressure (Stock is 43psi).
I told you that it's like a kick in the a$$!!!!
10-28-2002, 01:37 PM
#70
Re: Re: Re: Re: Problem Solved
Originally posted by BriGuyMax
very nice...thank you sir
I told you that it's like a kick in the a$$!!!!
very nice...thank you sir
I told you that it's like a kick in the a$$!!!!
10-28-2002, 01:39 PM
#71
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Problem Solved
Originally posted by ejj
You weren't kidding. It's better than I expected!
You weren't kidding. It's better than I expected!
10-28-2002, 02:18 PM
#73
Re: Great news!
Originally posted by IceY2K1
So when are you going back to the track?
So when are you going back to the track?
13's here I come!
10-29-2002, 06:49 AM
#76
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,084
I told you I felt like something was blocked.
I'm glad you found the problem. As the others said, enjoy. I told you would feel it when it came in. Now make sure you are tuned properly and remember that you would rather be rich than lean, so don't over do it. Keep an eye on your gauges too. Remember that nitrous is highly dependent on several factors working together. If one fails, the others will not work correctly and possibly cause you problems. Good luck and congrats!
I'm glad you found the problem. As the others said, enjoy. I told you would feel it when it came in. Now make sure you are tuned properly and remember that you would rather be rich than lean, so don't over do it. Keep an eye on your gauges too. Remember that nitrous is highly dependent on several factors working together. If one fails, the others will not work correctly and possibly cause you problems. Good luck and congrats!
10-29-2002, 11:32 AM
#78
Originally posted by 96BLUMAX
You should be able to, because Jime got like 13.4 on 75 shot.
You should be able to, because Jime got like 13.4 on 75 shot.
Besides...I don't want to get my hopes up. Chance of snow on Sunday.
11-10-2002, 05:04 PM
#79
Ok just to recap (since I'm having N2O blues)
it was just a clogged filter? My experience was that the RPMS gained a little faster than before, but NO kick in the pants... just a gentle push in the seat. Still, my track times SUCKED.
it was just a clogged filter? My experience was that the RPMS gained a little faster than before, but NO kick in the pants... just a gentle push in the seat. Still, my track times SUCKED.
11-10-2002, 07:20 PM
#80
Ok I checked the filter, there were a few little particles but nothing I would consider a minor occlusion. I also re positioned the WOT switch to come on a little sooner. My first test drive threw me a little harder into my seat. I'm hoping tuning the bypass valve down will give me what I want... also I only have 800 psi.
I did notice some condensation around the solenoids and the bypass valve blue thingy that sits between the solenoids (brain fart).
Another observation my FP kicks up to 75 or so till I begin to spray for about 1,000 rpm (3k-4k) then it lowers into the 40's. The car doesn't seem to hesitate at all, should I continue to run this? The car usually runs around 30-32psi at idle and 42-43 at WOT normally aspirated. After I take the foot off the gas my FP bounces back up to 75 and hold for a few seconds then returns to a normal pressure.
I have my solenoids set up to open at the same time till I get a wire issue solved this week.
my last question is that when I shift into another gear the RPMS kind of hover and fade into the next gear. I'm assuming its my clutch slipping until the car come to speed/rpm. The clutch doesn't smell when doing this it just isn't as responsive.
I did notice some condensation around the solenoids and the bypass valve blue thingy that sits between the solenoids (brain fart).
Another observation my FP kicks up to 75 or so till I begin to spray for about 1,000 rpm (3k-4k) then it lowers into the 40's. The car doesn't seem to hesitate at all, should I continue to run this? The car usually runs around 30-32psi at idle and 42-43 at WOT normally aspirated. After I take the foot off the gas my FP bounces back up to 75 and hold for a few seconds then returns to a normal pressure.
I have my solenoids set up to open at the same time till I get a wire issue solved this week.
my last question is that when I shift into another gear the RPMS kind of hover and fade into the next gear. I'm assuming its my clutch slipping until the car come to speed/rpm. The clutch doesn't smell when doing this it just isn't as responsive.