Post your VI issues (for my records)
11-17-2002, 02:24 PM
#3
1. vacuum leak. ...and quite a large one. came from not torquing the front manifold bolts down to spec. car was sputtering/misfiring badly.
2. harlan programming difficulty. caused by my lack of reading the instructions carefully... you need to hold programming buttons down for at least 2 sec or until the LED's flash or your settings won't take.
3. Harlan rpm input. could not feed two harlans off the TAM screw in the guage cluster. The tach needle would die.
4. vacuum canister deformation. initially placed the plastic NAPA canister under the cover... NOT GOOD! too hot under there.
The VI has been going strong for a few months now, completely problem free. ...now if only the JWT ECU would get here before the new year!
2. harlan programming difficulty. caused by my lack of reading the instructions carefully... you need to hold programming buttons down for at least 2 sec or until the LED's flash or your settings won't take.
3. Harlan rpm input. could not feed two harlans off the TAM screw in the guage cluster. The tach needle would die.
4. vacuum canister deformation. initially placed the plastic NAPA canister under the cover... NOT GOOD! too hot under there.
The VI has been going strong for a few months now, completely problem free. ...now if only the JWT ECU would get here before the new year!
11-17-2002, 03:32 PM
#4
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
No issues to report right now except for the fact that I'm ultimately no quicker or faster at track even though my dyno shows I'm making a crap load more power after 5500rpms 
The only issue I had was with running the relay with the RPM switch. It won't work. No relay = perfect running VI
Dave
The only issue I had was with running the relay with the RPM switch. It won't work. No relay = perfect running VI
Dave
11-17-2002, 07:01 PM
#5
1. Make sure you replace the EGR gasket with a new one.
2. I had a bad vacuum leak due to number one.
3. Corrected leak with new gasket and no issues to date. VI running smoothly for about two months now.
4. BTW, get someone to help especially if they have installed a VI....will shorten the install time tremendously...
D
2. I had a bad vacuum leak due to number one.
3. Corrected leak with new gasket and no issues to date. VI running smoothly for about two months now.
4. BTW, get someone to help especially if they have installed a VI....will shorten the install time tremendously...
D
11-17-2002, 07:34 PM
#6
1. I have the relay wired - works fine...
2. EGR Gasket - Have to agree with that one - When you order a new one, make sure the dealer doesn't accidentally give you one for an Altima.
3. RPM Switch - Make sure you set it on "coil per cylinder", NOT "6 cylinders"
4. Don't drop the cap off your RPM switch inside the engine when the manifold is off.
IanS
2. EGR Gasket - Have to agree with that one - When you order a new one, make sure the dealer doesn't accidentally give you one for an Altima.
3. RPM Switch - Make sure you set it on "coil per cylinder", NOT "6 cylinders"
4. Don't drop the cap off your RPM switch inside the engine when the manifold is off.
IanS
11-17-2002, 07:38 PM
#7
Originally posted by Dave B
No issues to report right now except for the fact that I'm ultimately no quicker or faster at track even though my dyno shows I'm making a crap load more power after 5500rpms
The only issue I had was with running the relay with the RPM switch. It won't work. No relay = perfect running VI
Dave
No issues to report right now except for the fact that I'm ultimately no quicker or faster at track even though my dyno shows I'm making a crap load more power after 5500rpms
The only issue I had was with running the relay with the RPM switch. It won't work. No relay = perfect running VI
Dave
On the other hand, I am running a relay and it's been working flawlessly for the last couple months.
11-17-2002, 08:40 PM
#8
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Originally posted by BSwithTF
Makes no sense. More power should equal faster times. I'm in the same boat.
On the other hand, I am running a relay and it's been working flawlessly for the last couple months.
Makes no sense. More power should equal faster times. I'm in the same boat.
On the other hand, I am running a relay and it's been working flawlessly for the last couple months.
I just don't get it at all. I ran today and was getting 14.70-14.81@95.5-96.5mph over the span of 5 runs with 2.25-2.41 60 foots. I say big freaking deal because I was running these kind ETs and MPHs back in April of this year WITHOUT the VI. I thought for sure the VI would give me +3mph and drop .3 in 1/4 mile. This just doesn't seem to be the case and the same goes for everyone else who seems to be running the VIM now. Even Nealoc really didn't show a huge improvement in ET/MPH (without the slicks).
I'm just beside myself and I'm really considering on getting rid of this car now.
Dave
11-18-2002, 07:31 AM
#10
Originally posted by Dave B
Travis-
I just don't get it at all. I ran today and was getting 14.70-14.81@95.5-96.5mph over the span of 5 runs with 2.25-2.41 60 foots. I say big freaking deal because I was running these kind ETs and MPHs back in April of this year WITHOUT the VI. I thought for sure the VI would give me +3mph and drop .3 in 1/4 mile. This just doesn't seem to be the case and the same goes for everyone else who seems to be running the VIM now. Even Nealoc really didn't show a huge improvement in ET/MPH (without the slicks).
I'm just beside myself and I'm really considering on getting rid of this car now.
Dave
Travis-
I just don't get it at all. I ran today and was getting 14.70-14.81@95.5-96.5mph over the span of 5 runs with 2.25-2.41 60 foots. I say big freaking deal because I was running these kind ETs and MPHs back in April of this year WITHOUT the VI. I thought for sure the VI would give me +3mph and drop .3 in 1/4 mile. This just doesn't seem to be the case and the same goes for everyone else who seems to be running the VIM now. Even Nealoc really didn't show a huge improvement in ET/MPH (without the slicks).
I'm just beside myself and I'm really considering on getting rid of this car now.
Dave
11-18-2002, 07:53 AM
#11
Originally posted by iansw
1. I have the relay wired - works fine...
2. EGR Gasket - Have to agree with that one - When you order a new one, make sure the dealer doesn't accidentally give you one for an Altima.
3. RPM Switch - Make sure you set it on "coil per cylinder", NOT "6 cylinders"
4. Don't drop the cap off your RPM switch inside the engine when the manifold is off.
IanS
1. I have the relay wired - works fine...
2. EGR Gasket - Have to agree with that one - When you order a new one, make sure the dealer doesn't accidentally give you one for an Altima.
3. RPM Switch - Make sure you set it on "coil per cylinder", NOT "6 cylinders"
4. Don't drop the cap off your RPM switch inside the engine when the manifold is off.
IanS
11-18-2002, 08:26 AM
#12
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Last weekend I tried shifting at my old shift points prior the VIM and I was .3 and 3mph slower. I went from 14.8s@95 to 15.1s@92mph which was right in line with what Trevor was running in his 96 SE 5 speed, ACT, Y/I/E, USIM.
I should also point out that Trevor was running 14.8s@93mph before he got the y-pipe. With the Y-pipe, he made 178fwhp/190fwtq which is pretty healthy for a 96 SE 5speed with I/B-pipe/muffler/Y. Now he can only get low 15s@90-91. Maybe something is screwed with the track.
How long does MO/KAN stay open?
Dave
I should also point out that Trevor was running 14.8s@93mph before he got the y-pipe. With the Y-pipe, he made 178fwhp/190fwtq which is pretty healthy for a 96 SE 5speed with I/B-pipe/muffler/Y. Now he can only get low 15s@90-91. Maybe something is screwed with the track.
How long does MO/KAN stay open?
Dave
11-18-2002, 09:12 AM
#14
I had 2 vaccum leaks. Replaced TB/EGR gaskets.. problem solved
My VI would only operate sometimes, mostly in 1st and 2nd. ( found On the dyno ) Traced to bad NAPA canniater check valve. Put another check valve in line with it.. works 5.0 ( verified on dyno )
BTW I am using a relay
My VI would only operate sometimes, mostly in 1st and 2nd. ( found On the dyno ) Traced to bad NAPA canniater check valve. Put another check valve in line with it.. works 5.0 ( verified on dyno )
BTW I am using a relay
11-18-2002, 02:41 PM
#17
Originally posted by deezo
For the people with autos:
Did you experience any loss before the kickover?
For the people with autos:
Did you experience any loss before the kickover?
http://www.cyberhub.net/dyno/Dyno101902.jpg
IanS
11-18-2002, 02:46 PM
#18
Originally posted by deezo
For the people with autos:
Did you experience any loss before the kickover?
For the people with autos:
Did you experience any loss before the kickover?
D
11-18-2002, 03:49 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 499
Im installing everything except the vaccum canister today this evening. The canister should come in tommarow and ill just plug that thing in and see if it works. Hope it does, Ill be back here cause I know Ill probobly run into problems. Thanks for the info and help.
Oh, Vacuum Canister NAPA part #730-1607 for whoever needed that.
Oh, Vacuum Canister NAPA part #730-1607 for whoever needed that.
11-18-2002, 04:00 PM
#20
Dave. Ian mentioned a descrepancy in the rpm reading. So if you wanted the vi to kick in @ 5,000 rpms, you actually had to set the Harlan to 5200 or 5400 rpms. If you didn't, there will be a powerloss. This was tested by Ian on the dyno. He set the switch at different rpms and saw a power loss unless it was set at the correct rpm. This might be why your 1/4 times are lower but hp is up? Maybe your engine can't "catch-up" in time for a 1/4 run.
11-18-2002, 04:37 PM
#21
Originally posted by deezo
For the people with autos:
Did you experience any loss before the kickover?
For the people with autos:
Did you experience any loss before the kickover?
I am confused what you mean by loss before the kick over?
For example, I make about 3-5 less FT lbs TQ before the switchover and about 2-4 less HP before the switch over point.. so in that instance yes I do have power loss
and if you ment losing power at the switch over point... for example, like Ians, I dyno tuned mine.. I had it set at 4800 and there was a large dip in power when it changed over.. then I set it to 5200 an it was seamless x-over
11-18-2002, 04:59 PM
#22
Originally posted by bags533
I am confused what you mean by loss before the kick over?
For example, I make about 3-5 less FT lbs TQ before the switchover and about 2-4 less HP before the switch over point.. so in that instance yes I do have power loss
I have now done 27 Dyno Runs with the VI. 15% of the time, the switchover is seamless, the rest it is not - I've tried settings from 3800 all the way to 5800.
5000 RPM showed the least amount of consistant loss for that .1 second of any other setting.
But I'm sure there is a loss no matter what - sometimes you just hit it perfectly and it doesn't drop - most of the time it does.
I'm sticking with 5000.
Jeff- the 5200 run was one of those flukes - after doing a few more runs, I realize that 5000 is better.
The loss is minimal, and literally lasts 100RPM, which is nothing, especially between 1st and 2nd Gear.
IanS
and if you ment losing power at the switch over point... for example, like Ians, I dyno tuned mine.. I had it set at 4800 and there was a large dip in power when it changed over.. then I set it to 5200 an it was seamless x-over
I am confused what you mean by loss before the kick over?
For example, I make about 3-5 less FT lbs TQ before the switchover and about 2-4 less HP before the switch over point.. so in that instance yes I do have power loss
I have now done 27 Dyno Runs with the VI. 15% of the time, the switchover is seamless, the rest it is not - I've tried settings from 3800 all the way to 5800.
5000 RPM showed the least amount of consistant loss for that .1 second of any other setting.
But I'm sure there is a loss no matter what - sometimes you just hit it perfectly and it doesn't drop - most of the time it does.
I'm sticking with 5000.
Jeff- the 5200 run was one of those flukes - after doing a few more runs, I realize that 5000 is better.
The loss is minimal, and literally lasts 100RPM, which is nothing, especially between 1st and 2nd Gear.
IanS
and if you ment losing power at the switch over point... for example, like Ians, I dyno tuned mine.. I had it set at 4800 and there was a large dip in power when it changed over.. then I set it to 5200 an it was seamless x-over
11-18-2002, 05:03 PM
#23
Originally posted by iansw
I have now done 27 Dyno Runs with the VI. 15% of the time, the switchover is seamless, the rest it is not - I've tried settings from 3800 all the way to 5800.
5000 RPM showed the least amount of consistant loss for that .1 second of any other setting.
But I'm sure there is a loss no matter what - sometimes you just hit it perfectly and it doesn't drop - most of the time it does.
I'm sticking with 5000.
Jeff- the 5200 run was one of those flukes - after doing a few more runs, I realize that 5000 is better.
The loss is minimal, and literally lasts 100RPM, which is nothing, especially between 1st and 2nd Gear.
IanS
I have now done 27 Dyno Runs with the VI. 15% of the time, the switchover is seamless, the rest it is not - I've tried settings from 3800 all the way to 5800.
5000 RPM showed the least amount of consistant loss for that .1 second of any other setting.
But I'm sure there is a loss no matter what - sometimes you just hit it perfectly and it doesn't drop - most of the time it does.
I'm sticking with 5000.
Jeff- the 5200 run was one of those flukes - after doing a few more runs, I realize that 5000 is better.
The loss is minimal, and literally lasts 100RPM, which is nothing, especially between 1st and 2nd Gear.
IanS
I am VERY clear on your setting of the VI and why
I found 5200 for me to be the best rpm
11-18-2002, 07:56 PM
#25
Originally posted by darksands
my car takes a bit longer to start up. I havent dont the vaccum actuator system yet, could that be the problem? And my car shakes from idle to about 2k rpm.
my car takes a bit longer to start up. I havent dont the vaccum actuator system yet, could that be the problem? And my car shakes from idle to about 2k rpm.
what did you hook up?
what did you not hook up?
11-18-2002, 08:25 PM
#27
Originally posted by darksands
my car takes a bit longer to start up. I havent dont the vaccum actuator system yet, could that be the problem? And my car shakes from idle to about 2k rpm.
my car takes a bit longer to start up. I havent dont the vaccum actuator system yet, could that be the problem? And my car shakes from idle to about 2k rpm.
Get a vacuum gauge. Your manifold probably has a vacuum leak.
IanS
11-18-2002, 08:31 PM
#28
Originally posted by darksands
I just installed the manifold without the vaccum actuator system.Ill the hoses and plugs are pluged in.
I just installed the manifold without the vaccum actuator system.Ill the hoses and plugs are pluged in.
did you torque the manifold down? is the gasket pinched anywhere?
11-18-2002, 08:35 PM
#30
Originally posted by darksands
I used new gaskets. I tightend everything. Ill tighten it some more, maybe that will help. I hope I dont break anything.
I used new gaskets. I tightend everything. Ill tighten it some more, maybe that will help. I hope I dont break anything.
11-19-2002, 12:09 AM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 499
Gasket is correctly in place, Torque is a a few pounds tighter than specified. Its still rattles and takes longer to start then usual. I have NO idea where this leak is if I have one. oh, another question. What happens if you just have the butterfly panels open all the time?
11-19-2002, 04:18 AM
#32
Originally posted by darksands
Gasket is correctly in place, Torque is a a few pounds tighter than specified. Its still rattles and takes longer to start then usual. I have NO idea where this leak is if I have one. oh, another question. What happens if you just have the butterfly panels open all the time?
Gasket is correctly in place, Torque is a a few pounds tighter than specified. Its still rattles and takes longer to start then usual. I have NO idea where this leak is if I have one. oh, another question. What happens if you just have the butterfly panels open all the time?
.I got a piece of 1/2 inch rubber hose about three foot long and I used it to listen for a leak.
When you start your car, pop the hood and listen for a hissing noise.
After you test for vacuum, if you get a reading lower than say 17 -- 20, you defintiely have a leak. Depending on the reading, you can tell whatr type of leak you have.
Search for a post I started regarding shaky idle after install. Dave B or Briguymax posted some really useful info which helped me to troubleshoot.
Dave
11-19-2002, 05:27 AM
#33
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: FV, NC
Posts: 14,287
Originally posted by bags533
Ian, I was slightly confused with what deezo was asking
I am VERY clear on your setting of the VI and why
I found 5200 for me to be the best rpm
Ian, I was slightly confused with what deezo was asking
I am VERY clear on your setting of the VI and why
I found 5200 for me to be the best rpm
My question is about HP loss throughout the powerband until you get to the switchover point.
11-19-2002, 05:44 AM
#34
Originally posted by deezo
Don't fret. You answered my question with the first answer you gave me.
My question is about HP loss throughout the powerband until you get to the switchover point.
Don't fret. You answered my question with the first answer you gave me.
My question is about HP loss throughout the powerband until you get to the switchover point.
I never fret..lol..
11-19-2002, 06:36 AM
#35
Originally posted by darksands
Im installing everything except the vaccum canister today this evening. The canister should come in tommarow and ill just plug that thing in and see if it works. Hope it does, Ill be back here cause I know Ill probobly run into problems. Thanks for the info and help.
Oh, Vacuum Canister NAPA part #730-1607 for whoever needed that.
Im installing everything except the vaccum canister today this evening. The canister should come in tommarow and ill just plug that thing in and see if it works. Hope it does, Ill be back here cause I know Ill probobly run into problems. Thanks for the info and help.
Oh, Vacuum Canister NAPA part #730-1607 for whoever needed that.
11-19-2002, 11:59 AM
#37
Originally posted by darksands
Where did you guys tap into to get your RPM inputs? Just trying to find out where is the easiest place.
Where did you guys tap into to get your RPM inputs? Just trying to find out where is the easiest place.
Some people go off the tach behind the gauge cluster. Some go off the ECU.
The coil is the easiest to get to - the ECU probably looks best, since you don't have the RPM Switch under your hood necessarily. But then again, that makes it hard to get to.
IanS
11-19-2002, 03:25 PM
#38
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 500
Re: Post your VI issues (for my records/Repository)
My only problem to date was with the intial installation. I used non-pressurized hoses for the vacuum lines to save money and they all collapsed from suction. But atleast I knew I had everything hooked up properly.
11-20-2002, 12:05 AM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 499
well, It seems like everything works, theres suction through the tubes, theres no leaks that I could tell. The Actuator arms stays still. could it be the wires Im using? Im using copper wire. It comes down to, can anyone in so. cal help me with wiring the vaacum actuator system? Ive heard that the actuator sometimes doesnt work unless the car is in gear, Ive also heard that the sometimes it only works when its not in gear. Anyone from So. Cal can take a look and tell me whats wrong cause I cant tell. It would be much much appreciated.