http://members.verizon.net/~vze4yqyk...m_a_2002_m.htm

If some one wants to link them all, go right ahead.

 

visually...both blocks seems 90% + identical..of course i don't knoe shiet....

 

Looks good

Does it look like everything is going to fit together pretty easily? Any idea on a final displacement? I've read the hybrid 3.0/3.5L -> 3.3L discussions, but I haven't heard anything about it in a long time. The next weakest part is the block too right?
-hype

 

interesting...

 

My mY

 

Thanks Matt.

 

The final displacement will be 3498cc's unless he bores the thing out .5 or 1 mm. He's using the VQ35 block and crank.

+ 0.5mm = 3535cc's
+ 1.0mm = 3572cc's


It certainly does need a deck cap for high HP applications.

 

You can really see the size difference of the 2 with the picture of the gaskets side by side.

Good Pictures

 

A few conclusions


1.) Notice the VQ35 cam lobes are cut to 1/2 thicknes on the preload side to reduce friction. The VQ30 cams aren't like that. This is one of the thigns I noticed on mine when I took the valve cover off.

2.) It looks as if the VQ35 cams can be used on the VQ30 head which is good because it's more aggressive.

3.) The VQ30 cam cannot be used in the VQ35 because it has no timing ring on it for the ECU to read.

4.) Nissan still isn't using oil spray jets from the block to cool the pistons. They're still using an oil spray orifice on the connecting rod to do this job instead. I wonder if there is avery good reason for this or are they being stubborn.

5.) The intake ports on the VQ35 head are not obviously larger than the VQ30 head but they are shaped differently. This would mean that the lower intake manifolds are not interhangeable between engines. A picture of a VQ30DE-K needs to be compared with these.




Got any crankshaft pictures??

 

The block does have under piston oil spray jets, I removed them when I pulled the pistons out.

The cams from the vQ35 will fit in a VQ30, but unless you use the variable cam control the power band will be off.

Crank, its in a box under allot of stuff, gimme a little while.

Rods look pretty whimpy though

 

Which VQ30 are you using to create the new engine? Did you get a used one, or the one that you purchased and had problems with?

 

I am using VQ30 heads from another motor.

 

Are there any shops nearby that would have a flowbench?

 

Let me remain in denial.

 

Prolly, are you buying?

 

For the flowbench time? I could be persuaded to split the cost if not too much.

 

Mardi,

Still going for 3.8 liters? If so, what are you going to do about the cylinder wall? Isn't it too thin to bore out that much?

I want to be the first one to hear a sound clip of your car if you succeed in that.

 

http://www.sprintmax.com/othercars/v...Engine-Project

I will pm you a username and password for you to upload if you like

 

HAHA you too? I mirrored his stuff here already.

 

wow..

 

"what should we do tommorow brain"

"tommorow we do what we try to do everynight.. try to take over the world"

 

yes darren... what is it?

 

LOL... took me awhile to pickup on that one.

 

 

do they seriously go on metrics for the motors?

if you bore it to far you can always sleeve it, just worry about hot spots in the walls.

one thing that is going to suck is the cost for a gasket set
if you find a good deal on one, please let me know, i need one for a VE.

good luck on the project. I dont think you can get too much more out of the heads and just watch out for the swirl patterns.
MrGone

 

Wow thats phat. Just went to your website and say the list of new stuff, the new dyno results and the new track run. Congrats! Now maximas are actually really freakin fast. I guess i missed a lot while i was away from the forum.

 

What compression is this engine going to yield?

I assume you're going to use it with the SC?

 

I will be bored just the normal .020" over, trivial for displacment but important for a quality build. The heads will stay for the most part stock, perhaps some heat rejection coatings on the valves. Forced induction and nitrous does not really require the extra money to be spent on head work and cams, like NA would. Sure it would help a little but for the cost just juice it or boost it more, the question is the strength of the rods, pistons, head gasket etc. I am leaning toward o-ringing the head with a copper gasket, but with head studs and the factory MLS head gasket I might be ok. Or hopefully HKS or NISMO will come out with a solution for the deck issue. Rods, pistons, wrist pins, rings and ARP fastners including main studs and head studs instead of bolts are in development. The CR will end up ~9.3:1 with VQ30 heads, using what would be 8.5:1 pistons inside a normal VQ35 with VQ35 heads. 9.3:1cr will be pretty good for me I think. I'm in no rush, my goal is to have it ready to run for the winter.

 

I agree thats the next best thing to getting a deck cap. Be careful with the copper head gasket though. I hear tales of people saying they leak and arent good for the street. You could get the block o-ringed which may be even better.

 

<grabs cams>

Really neat pictures! Thanks!

 

for the copper head gasket seal problem, has anyone tried painting them with some High temp spray paint?

also if it is just leaking coolant, some high temp copper rtv should do the trick, just create a small bead around the water holes.

MrGone

 

I wouldn't put RTV on the head gasket unless it was a tiny dab of copper. I have seen them use copper RTV on top fuel motors with copper gaskets.

 

Id put it on like you would put Artic Silver thermal compound on a processor, paper thin. just enough to seal the itty bitty gaps that would be causing leaks. I had a feeling using the word "bead" would probably sound like alot, which I suppose it technically is.

So is this going to be a boosted motor?
MrGone

 

Now Arctic Silver might work great.