doesn't always start 1st try anymore
#1
doesn't always start 1st try anymore
I got that code last week 0215 which people say is EVAP canister control valve closed. Now it seems when the car is warmed-up and the fuel is 1/2 tank or less, the car will not start on the first try. Sometimes takes 2-3 long cranks. That canister only costs $33, anybody got the procedure or pictures of how to replace it before I order it? Technically we're not supposed to be touching the emissions stuff is what somebody told me. They said let the pros replace this thing. Any ideas? Thx.
![Cool](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
#2
Re: doesn't always start 1st try anymore
What year is your Max? I know in my 2k there are some starting problems whenever the car has been driven for about 10 or 15 minutes and it takes a few times for it to roll over. I never even looked at the amount of fuel I had. A few other members with 2k's and 2k1's are having this problem as well. They have taken it to dealers with no avail. I heard that it may be a problem with the encoded key and something with the kill switch. If you let the key sit in the ignition 10 or 20 seconds then it starts. Lately I haven't had this problem though...
Hmmm...if it only was the evap canister then I would change it for a measly $33. I'll take a look at the ESM to see what it involves.
Hmmm...if it only was the evap canister then I would change it for a measly $33. I'll take a look at the ESM to see what it involves.
#3
Re: Re: doesn't always start 1st try anymore
Originally posted by foodmanry
What year is your Max? I know in my 2k there are some starting problems whenever the car has been driven for about 10 or 15 minutes and it takes a few times for it to roll over. I never even looked at the amount of fuel I had. A few other members with 2k's and 2k1's are having this problem as well. They have taken it to dealers with no avail. I heard that it may be a problem with the encoded key and something with the kill switch. If you let the key sit in the ignition 10 or 20 seconds then it starts. Lately I haven't had this problem though...
Hmmm...if it only was the evap canister then I would change it for a measly $33. I'll take a look at the ESM to see what it involves.
What year is your Max? I know in my 2k there are some starting problems whenever the car has been driven for about 10 or 15 minutes and it takes a few times for it to roll over. I never even looked at the amount of fuel I had. A few other members with 2k's and 2k1's are having this problem as well. They have taken it to dealers with no avail. I heard that it may be a problem with the encoded key and something with the kill switch. If you let the key sit in the ignition 10 or 20 seconds then it starts. Lately I haven't had this problem though...
Hmmm...if it only was the evap canister then I would change it for a measly $33. I'll take a look at the ESM to see what it involves.
![laugh](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/laugh.gif)
Anyhow, how hard can it be to replace the canister? Just want to get rid of that orange idiot light!
![Cool](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
#6
Have you tried cleaning the throttle body?
Originally posted by kj043
I have a '97 with 114k and have this same problem. usually it'll start up on the 2nd try.
anyone know what could be possible sources of this problem?
I have a '97 with 114k and have this same problem. usually it'll start up on the 2nd try.
![Mad](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
#8
Originally posted by kj043
I have a '97 with 114k and have this same problem. usually it'll start up on the 2nd try.
anyone know what could be possible sources of this problem?
I have a '97 with 114k and have this same problem. usually it'll start up on the 2nd try.
![Mad](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
#10
Originally posted by libo74
I have a 96' GXE and am having the same problem. oh and I did clean out the throtle body, with no positive results.
I have a 96' GXE and am having the same problem. oh and I did clean out the throtle body, with no positive results.
![goofy](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/goof.gif)
#11
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
EVAP system has nothing to do with start-up problems.
Check your engine coolant temperature sensor. - Check it's resistance against the table in the Haynes manual. If it's out of spec, replace it.
Clean your throttle body, as some have already said.
Check your engine coolant temperature sensor. - Check it's resistance against the table in the Haynes manual. If it's out of spec, replace it.
Clean your throttle body, as some have already said.
#12
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
EVAP system has nothing to do with start-up problems.
Check your engine coolant temperature sensor. - Check it's resistance against the table in the Haynes manual. If it's out of spec, replace it.
Clean your throttle body, as some have already said.
EVAP system has nothing to do with start-up problems.
Check your engine coolant temperature sensor. - Check it's resistance against the table in the Haynes manual. If it's out of spec, replace it.
Clean your throttle body, as some have already said.
![Confused](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
#13
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Originally posted by Frank Fontaine
I'm going by observation--tank full, EVAP code reset, starts right up. Tank 1/2, open gas cap, light turns on, no start first try.
I'm going by observation--tank full, EVAP code reset, starts right up. Tank 1/2, open gas cap, light turns on, no start first try.
Hard starts when you car is warm is a sign of an out of spec engine coolant temp sensor. That's probably not be your problem, but it doesn't hurt to test it. Sounds like you've got a fuel delivery issue when your gas tank is low, and thats weird...... Change the fuel filter lately? Have you tried to turn the key on and wait a few seconds for the pump to start, then start the car?
If all else fails, just fill up every time you get near 1/2 tank.
#14
Use throttle body cleaner. Don't just spray the cleaner in to the engine while it's running. Spray the cleaner in to the throttle body walls and scrub with a tooth brush. Then soak a towel with the cleaner and rub the inside of the throttle body down as much as possible. Try to dry it off. Maybe you sure clean the throttle plate and the edges of the throttle plate.
Originally posted by raiste
What do you use to clean out the throttle body? Carb cleaner? Don't some of these cleaners have silicone in them (will ruin an O2 sensor)?
What do you use to clean out the throttle body? Carb cleaner? Don't some of these cleaners have silicone in them (will ruin an O2 sensor)?
#15
I just had Deja Vu -- I just replied to a post like this didn't I?
Changing the cannister in a 98 is a cake walk.
Move the wheel liner out of the way in the rear of the rear drivers side wheel well.
It is right there. It would probably be better to change the cannister and the Valve at the same time.
If you look under that quarter panel back there you will see how easy it is. The only hard part is twisting the hoses off... they were pretty stubborn on mine.
Changing the cannister in a 98 is a cake walk.
Move the wheel liner out of the way in the rear of the rear drivers side wheel well.
It is right there. It would probably be better to change the cannister and the Valve at the same time.
If you look under that quarter panel back there you will see how easy it is. The only hard part is twisting the hoses off... they were pretty stubborn on mine.
#16
Originally posted by Entropy
I just had Deja Vu -- I just replied to a post like this didn't I?
Changing the cannister in a 98 is a cake walk.
Move the wheel liner out of the way in the rear of the rear drivers side wheel well.
It is right there. It would probably be better to change the cannister and the Valve at the same time.
If you look under that quarter panel back there you will see how easy it is. The only hard part is twisting the hoses off... they were pretty stubborn on mine.
I just had Deja Vu -- I just replied to a post like this didn't I?
Changing the cannister in a 98 is a cake walk.
Move the wheel liner out of the way in the rear of the rear drivers side wheel well.
It is right there. It would probably be better to change the cannister and the Valve at the same time.
If you look under that quarter panel back there you will see how easy it is. The only hard part is twisting the hoses off... they were pretty stubborn on mine.
I had the same code, 0715, and some other code. My car also had starting problems. I basically cleaned the valve, changed the fuel filter, and also changed my battery which was very weak from so much useless cranking, and the problem went away and hasn't returned for a year.
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