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doesn't always start 1st try anymore

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Old 03-29-2003, 07:05 AM
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doesn't always start 1st try anymore

I got that code last week 0215 which people say is EVAP canister control valve closed. Now it seems when the car is warmed-up and the fuel is 1/2 tank or less, the car will not start on the first try. Sometimes takes 2-3 long cranks. That canister only costs $33, anybody got the procedure or pictures of how to replace it before I order it? Technically we're not supposed to be touching the emissions stuff is what somebody told me. They said let the pros replace this thing. Any ideas? Thx.
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Old 03-29-2003, 07:25 AM
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Re: doesn't always start 1st try anymore

What year is your Max? I know in my 2k there are some starting problems whenever the car has been driven for about 10 or 15 minutes and it takes a few times for it to roll over. I never even looked at the amount of fuel I had. A few other members with 2k's and 2k1's are having this problem as well. They have taken it to dealers with no avail. I heard that it may be a problem with the encoded key and something with the kill switch. If you let the key sit in the ignition 10 or 20 seconds then it starts. Lately I haven't had this problem though...

Hmmm...if it only was the evap canister then I would change it for a measly $33. I'll take a look at the ESM to see what it involves.
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Old 03-30-2003, 07:09 PM
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Re: Re: doesn't always start 1st try anymore

Originally posted by foodmanry
What year is your Max? I know in my 2k there are some starting problems whenever the car has been driven for about 10 or 15 minutes and it takes a few times for it to roll over. I never even looked at the amount of fuel I had. A few other members with 2k's and 2k1's are having this problem as well. They have taken it to dealers with no avail. I heard that it may be a problem with the encoded key and something with the kill switch. If you let the key sit in the ignition 10 or 20 seconds then it starts. Lately I haven't had this problem though...

Hmmm...if it only was the evap canister then I would change it for a measly $33. I'll take a look at the ESM to see what it involves.
My Max is a '98. It feels like it's aging lately like it's a dog--every year = 7 years! Seriously, from 55,000 to 74,000 it's as if the car is starting to deteriorate much more rapidly. Dang I see all kind of grime now from where the rack is leaking and it creaks and bumps.

Anyhow, how hard can it be to replace the canister? Just want to get rid of that orange idiot light!
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Old 03-30-2003, 08:19 PM
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My car started to not crank on the first try. I cleaned out the throttle body and that solved my problem. Just a thought.
 
Old 03-30-2003, 10:49 PM
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I have a '97 with 114k and have this same problem. usually it'll start up on the 2nd try. anyone know what could be possible sources of this problem?
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Old 03-30-2003, 11:38 PM
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Have you tried cleaning the throttle body?


Originally posted by kj043
I have a '97 with 114k and have this same problem. usually it'll start up on the 2nd try. anyone know what could be possible sources of this problem?
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Old 03-31-2003, 12:20 AM
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Originally posted by pjalst
My car started to not crank on the first try. I cleaned out the throttle body and that solved my problem. Just a thought.
That's what I said
 
Old 03-31-2003, 05:06 AM
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Originally posted by kj043
I have a '97 with 114k and have this same problem. usually it'll start up on the 2nd try. anyone know what could be possible sources of this problem?
I have a 96' GXE and am having the same problem. oh and I did clean out the throtle body, with no positive results.
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Old 03-31-2003, 05:08 AM
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Originally posted by ZuMBLe
Have you tried cleaning the throttle body?
What do you use to clean out the throttle body? Carb cleaner? Don't some of these cleaners have silicone in them (will ruin an O2 sensor)?
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Old 03-31-2003, 05:11 AM
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Originally posted by libo74


I have a 96' GXE and am having the same problem. oh and I did clean out the throtle body, with no positive results.
I'm pretty sure my problem is related to the EVAP canister and gas cap--because when I reset the ecu, the service engine lamp turned on as soon as I opened up the gas cap to add gas. Again, a $33 part, but it is part of the emissions system and I think technically we're not supposed to be monkeying with it. There are TSB's up the ying-yang on it and I thought maybe somebody on the forum had already done the replacement, but it doesn't look like it.
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Old 03-31-2003, 06:08 AM
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EVAP system has nothing to do with start-up problems.

Check your engine coolant temperature sensor. - Check it's resistance against the table in the Haynes manual. If it's out of spec, replace it.

Clean your throttle body, as some have already said.
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Old 03-31-2003, 08:33 AM
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Originally posted by njmaxseltd
EVAP system has nothing to do with start-up problems.

Check your engine coolant temperature sensor. - Check it's resistance against the table in the Haynes manual. If it's out of spec, replace it.

Clean your throttle body, as some have already said.
I'm going by observation--tank full, EVAP code reset, starts right up. Tank 1/2, open gas cap, light turns on, no start first try. What does the coolant temp sensor have to do with it, does that drive the temp gauge or are you delving into the cold start injector theory? I'm not familiar with the Maxima's fuel system, but in a mechanical Bosch K-Jetronic though it's a stretch, that's the only thing I can see that you're driving at.
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Old 03-31-2003, 09:07 AM
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Originally posted by Frank Fontaine


I'm going by observation--tank full, EVAP code reset, starts right up. Tank 1/2, open gas cap, light turns on, no start first try.
Confused is right. Thats weird.. EVAP system should have no effect on start ups. The EVAP system holds the fumes from your gas tank in the canister and releases them when a signal to the purge valve is present. Purged fumes are directed to your intake manifold and burnt up through combustion. The signal to purge will only be present under normal running conditions. It's not present during start up.

Hard starts when you car is warm is a sign of an out of spec engine coolant temp sensor. That's probably not be your problem, but it doesn't hurt to test it. Sounds like you've got a fuel delivery issue when your gas tank is low, and thats weird...... Change the fuel filter lately? Have you tried to turn the key on and wait a few seconds for the pump to start, then start the car?

If all else fails, just fill up every time you get near 1/2 tank.
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Old 03-31-2003, 09:23 AM
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Use throttle body cleaner. Don't just spray the cleaner in to the engine while it's running. Spray the cleaner in to the throttle body walls and scrub with a tooth brush. Then soak a towel with the cleaner and rub the inside of the throttle body down as much as possible. Try to dry it off. Maybe you sure clean the throttle plate and the edges of the throttle plate.

Originally posted by raiste


What do you use to clean out the throttle body? Carb cleaner? Don't some of these cleaners have silicone in them (will ruin an O2 sensor)?
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Old 03-31-2003, 11:06 AM
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I just had Deja Vu -- I just replied to a post like this didn't I?

Changing the cannister in a 98 is a cake walk.

Move the wheel liner out of the way in the rear of the rear drivers side wheel well.

It is right there. It would probably be better to change the cannister and the Valve at the same time.

If you look under that quarter panel back there you will see how easy it is. The only hard part is twisting the hoses off... they were pretty stubborn on mine.
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Old 03-31-2003, 02:50 PM
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Originally posted by Entropy
I just had Deja Vu -- I just replied to a post like this didn't I?

Changing the cannister in a 98 is a cake walk.

Move the wheel liner out of the way in the rear of the rear drivers side wheel well.

It is right there. It would probably be better to change the cannister and the Valve at the same time.

If you look under that quarter panel back there you will see how easy it is. The only hard part is twisting the hoses off... they were pretty stubborn on mine.
you don't need to change the whole canister probably. just take off the valve from the front of the canister, and clean it thoroughly with WD40. Make sure air passes freely through the valve when its open.

I had the same code, 0715, and some other code. My car also had starting problems. I basically cleaned the valve, changed the fuel filter, and also changed my battery which was very weak from so much useless cranking, and the problem went away and hasn't returned for a year.
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