Do I need Camber plates?
#1
Im planning to lower my car with H&R's. I also want everything to be right, dont want my tires to wear improperly, and my alingnment to be off. Does antyone sell them besides STILLEN? How much do they cost?
#3
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You really don't need it. A little negative camber->
doesn't hurt. You might want to get the Ingall's camber kit for $40 if you want some flexibility during alignment. It will adjust back 1 degrees.
Originally posted by Krystian
Im planning to lower my car with H&R's. I also want everything to be right, dont want my tires to wear improperly, and my alingnment to be off. Does antyone sell them besides STILLEN? How much do they cost?
Im planning to lower my car with H&R's. I also want everything to be right, dont want my tires to wear improperly, and my alingnment to be off. Does antyone sell them besides STILLEN? How much do they cost?
#6
The #1 reason for increased tire wear after lowering is the TOE adjustment(ie.. toe out), not camber. In your case the H&Rs should keep your camber to about 1 neg max. Which is not bad. But when you lower your car is changes the effective end to end length of the tie-rod, which will affect your toe settings to a much greater degree than camber.
Note: If you lower your car so severly(w/o coilovers) to greatly affect the camber, you have probably ruined most of the factory suspension design and will probably start getting alot of funky suspension behavior. Normal driving probably won't make this apparent. The suspension will probably rear it's ugly head in a severe situation(ie...when you need it most)
Note: If you lower your car so severly(w/o coilovers) to greatly affect the camber, you have probably ruined most of the factory suspension design and will probably start getting alot of funky suspension behavior. Normal driving probably won't make this apparent. The suspension will probably rear it's ugly head in a severe situation(ie...when you need it most)
#8
Re: how much lowering do you consider
Anything more than about 1.5 inches and I would start having to be concerned about the control arm angles, tie-rod angles and camber settings. At some point, the control arm might start actually getting shorter(effectively) and induce positive camber during severe corning. Which would be a bad thing right? Also at least in RWD(maybe fwd also) bad control arm angles will promote bump steer oversteer in turns where you have to stomp on the brake pedal.
Originally posted by seven
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