I was never happy with my Pacesetter STS. In my car it touched the front of the shift cutout in 1st,3rd and 5th and sat much further forward than stock. Most pacesetter users do not have a problem with the shifter hitting the console but the pacesetter always sits much farther forward than stock.

Part of the problem in my car is I had the Pacesetter adjusted fairly conservatively. As you lower the shifter it will move back. However it will only move back slightly, at an aggressively short throw it will probably only give about ¼ inch clearance between the console and shifter in gears 1,3,and 5 and still sit much farther forward than stock.

Looking at this picture of the Pacesetter next to the stock shifter the problem is clear, the Pacesetter has nowhere near enough of a bend in it. I should have put a ruler behind the shifters but you can clearly see the pacesetter is going to end up several inches father forward of the stock shifter, the lower sections are parallel to each other.

(The stock shifter is the black one)



The stock shifter also has a bend in it that the pacesetter does not (this view is the back of both shifters) –



The ball on my Pacesetter is very scuffed up after a couple of months in my car, the ball on my stock shifter was still smooth even after ~4 years of use. The stock shifter also seems to have a better bushing. The stock bushing has an inner piece that rotates separately from the rest of the bushing, perhaps this is why the stock shifter feels smoother?

(Stock shifter on bottom)


Discuss---

 

I have the ball on my Pacesetter adjusted to 3/4 of the way and I have no clearance issues. The install was problem free. I love my sts.

 

I believe you need to shave down the ball a little for the pacesetters..

 

I agree with everything you have said. I think quality control is to blame for variability in the bend... but to be honest, some have had extreme difficulty getting the ball down past the bend because of the angle.

The main problem with pacesetter is the lack of bushing where the shifter linkage attaches to the bottom of the rod. Not only on the inside, but ESPECIALLY the sides which rubs metal to metal against the flat walls of the shifter linkage. I think ideally, you would want to find polyurethane thin washer to put on either side to simulate the stock condition.

I redid my pacesetter recently. Not only did I put the ball in a more conservative throw setting but I made sure to lube the friction points as best as possible. Even so, the metal/metal friction point will eventually rear its ugly head again once the lube starts to dry out...making shifts tougher. Too bad B&M wasnt' around when I bought the pacesetter but only time will tell whether that too can function well over the long haul.

 

That's a good idea. Any suggestion on where to find them? I have my Pacesetter set to 50% and it doesn't bang into the lip of the console in 1-3-5th gears.

Anachronism: What %age distance did you have the pivot ball at (say 100%=top and 0%=bottom)? Did you grind down the pivot ball much?

 

Probably about 30% from the bottom, about 3/4" higher than the stock pivot ball, fairly conservitive. I did not grind down the pivot ball at all.

I guess most Pacesetter shifters don't hit the console like mine did but they all sit much farther forward than stock. Looking at the pace setter and stock shifter side by side it doesn't even look like it's the right shifter for the Maxima (to me anyway).

 

I bought an Energy Suspension bushing, but I've had my STS and bushing for over a year and still haven't installed it yet. I definitely need to get it on before my SFC's. I will keep you all updated. BTW, the bushing is the same on the 200SX,Sentra, and G20 models...cost $8 I think

 

I remember back in my audio days that there used to be poly round spacers that were used to isolate binding posts and RCA jacks from the case. They probably were tough enough to serve as a bushing. Two for each side would be best so that there is no movement with the metal junction and only the poly bushings would rub (lubed, of course).

I have my Pacesetter ball sitting with 1cm of threading above it. Although compared to stock, it may not seem like much, it is appreciably shorter (ie. worth the effort to install the STS) while not making the shifter terribly notchy.

 

Thx. I'll have to do some "bloodhound" work in electronics/audio shops.

 

Anyone remember where the ball should be to get longer throws? I think all the way on bottom is closer to stock.

 

The ball really does need to be smaller/shaved.

Does anyone know where to pick up the shifter rubber bridge type thing that the shifter linkage bolts up to???

 

That seems to makes sense if you think of the shifter as a lever & the ball as the fulcrum.