driver side front wheel rattles...
#1
driver side front wheel rattles...
whenever i go over a bump, my driver side front wheel or whatever thats under the front driver side fender is rattling. could it be my spring? how do i know when to replace my shocks? wat could this rattling be? how severe could it be?
#3
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Check your upper strut mounts. From under the hood look at the center nut. It should be centered and not have any play. Try to move it around, if it moves, your upper mount is bad. It's a 17mm nut on there, put a socket on it and try to tighten it up. 50 ft/lbs is the correct torque value for that nut, don't overtighten it or you will damage the mount if it's still in good shape.
#4
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
Check your upper strut mounts. From under the hood look at the center nut. It should be centered and not have any play. Try to move it around, if it moves, your upper mount is bad. It's a 17mm nut on there, put a socket on it and try to tighten it up. 50 ft/lbs is the correct torque value for that nut, don't overtighten it or you will damage the mount if it's still in good shape.
Check your upper strut mounts. From under the hood look at the center nut. It should be centered and not have any play. Try to move it around, if it moves, your upper mount is bad. It's a 17mm nut on there, put a socket on it and try to tighten it up. 50 ft/lbs is the correct torque value for that nut, don't overtighten it or you will damage the mount if it's still in good shape.
#5
I have the same problem. The best way to describe my sound is that when I go over uneven terrain (bumps, gravel road, etc), it sounds like a rattle, but it sounds metallic in nature.
At first, I thought it was my brake shield, so I took my wheel off and checked the shield but it looks ok. So now, I am at a loss.
LucentAUTO, maseo77, does the rattle you hear sound metallic in nature?
At first, I thought it was my brake shield, so I took my wheel off and checked the shield but it looks ok. So now, I am at a loss.
LucentAUTO, maseo77, does the rattle you hear sound metallic in nature?
#7
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Originally posted by maseo77
my noise sounds more like a few small rubber ***** in a bucket, thats the best way i can describe it.
my noise sounds more like a few small rubber ***** in a bucket, thats the best way i can describe it.
Nisom, I've seen the top nut back off which makes the piston rattle around and enlarge the hole to the point you can't use it anymore. The rubber inside could deteriorate as well, I've never seen that, but it's possible especially in older high mileage cars.
#9
I have Konis and I redid my suspension a couple weeks back and torqued that bolt down 80 ftlbs. dont think I ever had a loose top strut nut since I always check torque and its always at 50 lbs.
***** in a bucket- my noise sound pretty much that, it sound more between ***** in a bucket and the creeking noise you get when your springs twist and pop. I only get it on the passanger front while turning left
***** in a bucket- my noise sound pretty much that, it sound more between ***** in a bucket and the creeking noise you get when your springs twist and pop. I only get it on the passanger front while turning left
#10
Just went out and checked, the strut in the upper strut mount has slight play(maybe less than a mm all around the hole) does that mean my upper mounts are worn? I tried centering the strut in the hole and torques the nut down, Ill see if that helps. if not, how much is a new mount?
#11
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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The shaft on Konis are not keyed to match the OEM or even aftermarket mounts. The mount must be drilled out round to accept the Koni. Once the hole is drilled round, the piston on the Koni can spin making it hard to correctly torque the nut down.
The bottom bolt that holds the Koni in the strut housing may be to long and bottom out before actually securing the insert to the strut housing. Take the strut out and see if the Koni still moves in the housing. It it does, you may need a shorter bolt or another washer so you can correctly secure the insert into the strut housing. Lock-tite probably should be used.
The bottom bolt that holds the Koni in the strut housing may be to long and bottom out before actually securing the insert to the strut housing. Take the strut out and see if the Koni still moves in the housing. It it does, you may need a shorter bolt or another washer so you can correctly secure the insert into the strut housing. Lock-tite probably should be used.
#12
I just now remembered I had to drill out that upper strut hole, been so long since I installed the Konis. Ill check the bottom bolt again since I had to remove the koni shock to install my ground controls, maybe add another thick washer in there too. I never had any problems before with this noise and only appeared when I redid my suspension. thanks for your help.
#13
Noise gone, metallic clanging noise was caused by a small rock stuck in the rotor cavity. It was doing the jiggy in there.
But they say my boot is torn, so time to shell out some $$$.
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