Ok, LONG story short the car starts. I had the fuel lines reversed. But still vaccum of 10 HG and stalls AFTER it warms up.

The idle is rough, but seems to be best DURING warm up.

I have the 0102 code, MAF voltage incorrect. I could not find anything worng with it. I even took the MAF and stuck it in another car and it worked fine.

Well after hours of doing this and that, DIXIT ( thanks a millon man ) came by and we tried to fix the exhaust leak and use his PDA to look at what is going on.

Well, we found out the #2 o2 sensor is seeing 0 volts. #1 and the cat o2 sensor is seeing .31 volts

The $100,000 question is on the MAF. When the ignitioin is in the on postion it is seeing 268 gm/sec of air. It sees the EXACT same amount of air when at idle and at 1500 RPM. So it never changes.

The timing is going from ~20 to ~14. I guess it is trying to figure out the best place to be, and with the idle going from 400 rpm - 900 rpm it is sorta hard.

Going to check each coil pack and see what I can find out. Also looking at checking injector voltage.

The egt's and the poping sounds make me think it is lean. But there is ALOT of black smoke when I give it gas. After some late night thinking, it has me wondering if maybe a coil pack is bad and the unburned fuel going down the y-pipe may be raising the egt's. But who knows.

It would seem to me taht there is a connector loose or shorted somewhere. Maybe even a bad relay. There just seems to be alot going on.

I am thinking 1 thing is reeking havoc on everything else.

I am just curious as to the 268 gm/sec airflow, sounds shorted to me. The 0 volts on the o2 sensor sound like a dead sensor or a short.

I really want to get the vaccum down to 16 hg or so. I think that would help everything else. Maybe not. I am going to tighten down some stuff and see if I can improve that.

Well any input is welcome.

and ejj I'll be doing a compression test today. I am a little nervous that I may have a dead cylinder or 3.

 

Iansw is having the same idle/stall issue with the addition of the JWT Z32/SC/370cc chip and Z32 MAF.

The concensus with his situation is that he butt connected the Z32 MAF harness on and the butt connectors are increasing resistence thus changing voltage to the ECU. He is going to remove the butt connectors and solder the wires together.

Did you splice in a Z32 harness with butt connectors as well?

I'm sure Iansw will be arount in this post to let you know what happened.

 

My problem is not directly related to Bags' issue we discovered after fixing the wiring on my car....

Bags' issue is better when in the process of warming up.
Mine is messed up UNTIL warm-up completes and the engine is hot.

Figured out my issue is having the Z32 MAF on the charged side after eliminating every other possibility - I believe you saw my whole thread Bags....

Just adding what I can to the info in case someone searches on this later....

I k now you know this EB from NWMaxima.com and my posts there.

 

My idle jumps form 9-25 depending on what RPM it's dropping to/rising to with the rough idle....

JWT apparently drops the idle timing quite a bit also - since I measures with my old setup that works (A32 MAF/JWT ECU) and at idle timing was 7-9, bouncing back and forth.

I believe stock timing is supposed to be 15....which is interesting because with the working setup, when cruising in N to stop with clutch pushed in, timing goes straight to 15 and stays there until compltely stopped - then goes to 7-9 again.

I also noticed looking at MaximaN's timing, that this is apparently normal with a JWT ECU w/SC Program. <see eric.xls below>

Here's my numbers in Excel Format if anyone is interested from some runs with the NProbe monitoring:
http://www.cyberhub.net/jwt/

List of files:
A32MAF/JWT SC 370cc ECU = A32MAF_A32ECU.xls
MaxiMan Stock Injectors SC JWT ECU = eric.xls
Z32 MAF/Z32 ECU COLD START = Z32_COLDSTART.xls <---this is all messed up
Z32 MAF/Z32 ECU WARM = Z32MAF_Z32ECU.xls <----a little bit of an idle issue, but runs fine.

 

Ian, I am going to post this info here and the boosted forum...

At idle while cold, 14-18 deg of timing, while in "N" with the clutch out.

After warm up with the car just sitting there.. no driving idle goes to 4-8.

Driving was hard to monitor by myself, it was 12-14 sloing down at like 5 mph and dropped to 4-8 when I stopped clutch depressed or released.

I am going to play with the sooftware and see about hooking it up to the computer and getting some info.

This is all with 300z Maf and 400cc injectors

 

Looks like you are geting the same readins i was....EXCEPT that my Z32 MAF jumps up to 25 at idle when cold, then down to 5-15 (bounces aorund) then back to 25.....car runs like crap when cold with the Z32, as you know...on my car.

otherwise, under warm-up conditions, we are pretty close to each other....

 

Yeah.. I am going to try and get the computer stuff working in the next day or 2.. if I do.. I'll post the results up

Still think it's the blower? or small piping?

 

I think it's the blower....but enlarging the intake diameter is something I've been meaning to do anyway - so I plan on trying that first just for the heck of it.

 

Have you tried simply undoing the SC piping after the blower and moving it so it doesn't have any blower air going into it and seeing what result you get?

When I do htis, the car runs perfectly.