Ok, just got her started. Only 3 codes pulled, the o2 sensors ( i started it up without the y) and the boost sensor(unhooked).

Reset the ecu, and the engine is still running at a high idle. I tested the IAC (checked out) and the fast idle solenoids (ac and power steering). I did the test in the Haynes on the solenoids.

What else could it be? All of my hoses are intact. There is a strange exhaust leak somewhere. It sounds kinda like its near the egr. But it may be that my y-pipe gasket was crushed and no rtv sealant was used.

The only other things are:
1. I am using a 95 plenum on a 96. The only difference is the EVAP connection to the plenum is bigger on the 96. So in other words, it goes from a larger to smaller.

2. The TB is also a 95. Maybe the fast idle cam is set for 95, while the ecu is trying for a 96 setting?

I need help from the pros, please.
But i will take advice, even from the guys who think the boost sensor has something to do with a turbo.

Thanks in advance,
--Mike J Lincoln, NE

 

Was this idle speed right after you started up the engine or after you let the engine warm up?

Mine runs at about 1200 cold and drops to 750 when warm. This is in Park.

 

First off make sure you have no vaccume leaks.

To set idle speed:
Start the engine and get it to operating temp. Turn it off and disconnect the TPS. Start the engine and set the idle speed using the throttle stop screw on the TB. The idle should be around 600. Shut her down and reconnect the TPS. Start her back up and the idle should now be controlled by the IACV and should be around 700.

High idle speeds usually mean to much air is getting into the intake. That can be caused by a vaccume leak or the TB default position being open to wide. If the TB is open to much the IACV cannot control or lower the idle speed by adjusting air flow. It's operation is being bypassed.

 

Ok, i figured the IAC screw thing out. Now I am not sure that there is not a vacuum leak. I got the idle speed correct/corrected. But there is still the ever so slightest, like a +/- 50rpm idle wobble.
Do you think that the exhaust/possible egr tab leak might have something to do with it?

 

Absolutely, the EGR is connected to your intake manifold. Fix that problem and reset your idle speed.

 

hmmm.... thanks for all the input njmaxseltd
Would an exhaust leak be pretty obvious?
Because after listening to the sound, and considering when i hear it, it may just be the rear exhaust manifold heat shield that i had to cut to fit into place. The engine was installed; it is impossible to get that thing on without cutting it a little.
The reverb noise or exhaust or whatever it is, is only heard in first or low second gear. And it is not constant. Under more throttle, the sound goes away. Logic tells me that exhaust leaks would get louder and hotter.
Ill just check my gas milage, and when i later swap injectors i will recheck all egr stuff.

Thanks again, Mike

 

Your logic makes sense, I don't think a shield or lack of would cause any noise, they just shield heat from the exhaust. Drive it around and keep your eyes and ears on it. Eventually you'll get it all sorted out.

Good luck!