Does an I 30 have more power than a Maxima?
#1
I was in the highway last eve. and there was traffic (you know the slow slugs on the left and a nearly open right lane) so I switched lanes to the right and in front of me a guy in an I30 switch to the same and gunned it. I saw it and gunned it to. He moved pretty quickly and I tried to keep up with him but my car did not move as fast. The engine made alot of noise (roaring JWT Pop and Y pipe) but could not get that acceleration (from 60 to higher mph).
My max felt heavy-*** sluggish. How many of you guys have had this happen?
I had the pedal to the metal and with my mods I thought I can kick his *** but ...
C'mon guys, help a fellow Max friend.
Peace,
My max felt heavy-*** sluggish. How many of you guys have had this happen?
I had the pedal to the metal and with my mods I thought I can kick his *** but ...
C'mon guys, help a fellow Max friend.
Peace,
#6
Sounds like you have an auto and he had a 5 speed. There is no comparison stock to stock. I rcaed my friend in his auto and my 5 speed (same year and model) and I smoked him bad from 70-110. We're talking several car lengths. So if you have an auto, then you will need more mods to match a stock 5 speed (especially at higher speeds)
#7
Kratz is right. Big Texan has an auto and has many mods and he out ran me by 4 or 5 onehundreths of a second. Mine is bone stock with the exception of a K&n air filter and I can take him on top end. But from about 25-75 he will probably out run me. His car is very fast.
#8
I have a 5 speed.
At the low end it seems to go ok but at the high end it seems sluggish. Maybe I need a new MAF (I've heard that these may cause this problem). I did find once my stock air filter box unloked after service. Of course, I noticed this after the winter was over (so it seems that it might have been exposed to the ugly northen winter and salt)
On the other hand it could be my clutch (though it was once replaced under warranty, it came defective from the factory)
Or I might be running lean, to lean that there is no power specially when the engine is at WOT and more air comes in (hence the roaring) and not enough fuel is injected. Or (what the heck, it could be anything...)
On the other hand it could be my clutch (though it was once replaced under warranty, it came defective from the factory)
Or I might be running lean, to lean that there is no power specially when the engine is at WOT and more air comes in (hence the roaring) and not enough fuel is injected. Or (what the heck, it could be anything...)
Originally posted by SprintMax
what do you have Auto or 5spd?
if you have an Auto.. do what nick says.. but get a 5spd instead.. old or new
what do you have Auto or 5spd?
if you have an Auto.. do what nick says.. but get a 5spd instead.. old or new
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#9
Re: I have a 5 speed.
Hey come to English town so i can teach you how to drive .. hahahah
Originally posted by Carlos A
At the low end it seems to go ok but at the high end it seems sluggish. Maybe I need a new MAF (I've heard that these may cause this problem). I did find once my stock air filter box unloked after service. Of course, I noticed this after the winter was over (so it seems that it might have been exposed to the ugly northen winter and salt)
On the other hand it could be my clutch (though it was once replaced under warranty, it came defective from the factory)
Or I might be running lean, to lean that there is no power specially when the engine is at WOT and more air comes in (hence the roaring) and not enough fuel is injected. Or (what the heck, it could be anything...)
At the low end it seems to go ok but at the high end it seems sluggish. Maybe I need a new MAF (I've heard that these may cause this problem). I did find once my stock air filter box unloked after service. Of course, I noticed this after the winter was over (so it seems that it might have been exposed to the ugly northen winter and salt)
On the other hand it could be my clutch (though it was once replaced under warranty, it came defective from the factory)
Or I might be running lean, to lean that there is no power specially when the engine is at WOT and more air comes in (hence the roaring) and not enough fuel is injected. Or (what the heck, it could be anything...)
#12
What year was the I30 you raced? If it was a 2000+ is was definatly a Auto magic{they stoped making 5spd in 99}. If it was a 96-99 it may have been a 5spd but slim chance. BTW the 96-99 I30's are slower stock then a maxima due to the fact they have a extra 130 pounds.
#13
I think it was a 97 or 98 -->
It looked just like a maxima (same body, same structure, sma wheel base, etc except the front had the chrome grill).
If you replaced the front of it with a maxima one you would have seen a maxima (except for the butt).
I think I have a problem with my fuel ratio at the high end. I think the engine is trying but there is not enough gasoline.
May be I have to check my fuel pump.
Or maybe I need a new ECU (G-force?)
I think I am fishing.
If you replaced the front of it with a maxima one you would have seen a maxima (except for the butt).
I think I have a problem with my fuel ratio at the high end. I think the engine is trying but there is not enough gasoline.
May be I have to check my fuel pump.
Or maybe I need a new ECU (G-force?)
I think I am fishing.
Originally posted by emax95
What year was the I30 you raced? If it was a 2000+ is was definatly a Auto magic{they stoped making 5spd in 99}. If it was a 96-99 it may have been a 5spd but slim chance. BTW the 96-99 I30's are slower stock then a maxima due to the fact they have a extra 130 pounds.
What year was the I30 you raced? If it was a 2000+ is was definatly a Auto magic{they stoped making 5spd in 99}. If it was a 96-99 it may have been a 5spd but slim chance. BTW the 96-99 I30's are slower stock then a maxima due to the fact they have a extra 130 pounds.
#14
Eh... don't feel bad
I got beat by an I30 the other day too. But it was mostly due to the fact that I didn't really feel like being totally reckless and weave in and out of mid-day traffic on the highway.
I saw him coming up pretty quick behind me, cutting people off left and right. He came up right behind me and tailgated me for a while. I gunned it a little and started weaving in and out a little. He hung behind me and then I got caught up in some traffic. He cut across two lanes to the inside and started cutting back and forth and eventually got away.
I said forget it. It wasn't worth it.
I saw him coming up pretty quick behind me, cutting people off left and right. He came up right behind me and tailgated me for a while. I gunned it a little and started weaving in and out a little. He hung behind me and then I got caught up in some traffic. He cut across two lanes to the inside and started cutting back and forth and eventually got away.
I said forget it. It wasn't worth it.
#15
You are a good driver!
You make sense. There is a balance between performance and unnecessary risk. You have made the right decision.
Given your situation it was more prudent not to risk your safety and the people surrounding you.
In my case I had a wide open right lane, the slugs were already behind, and it was just burgundy I30 and my black Max. Come to think of it, there was a delayed reaction in stepping on the accel to catch up and before I had to exit. I still feel my car did not perform as I expected (and that sucks)
Peace
Given your situation it was more prudent not to risk your safety and the people surrounding you.
In my case I had a wide open right lane, the slugs were already behind, and it was just burgundy I30 and my black Max. Come to think of it, there was a delayed reaction in stepping on the accel to catch up and before I had to exit. I still feel my car did not perform as I expected (and that sucks)
Peace
Originally posted by clee130
I got beat by an I30 the other day too. But it was mostly due to the fact that I didn't really feel like being totally reckless and weave in and out of mid-day traffic on the highway.
I saw him coming up pretty quick behind me, cutting people off left and right. He came up right behind me and tailgated me for a while. I gunned it a little and started weaving in and out a little. He hung behind me and then I got caught up in some traffic. He cut across two lanes to the inside and started cutting back and forth and eventually got away.
I said forget it. It wasn't worth it.
I got beat by an I30 the other day too. But it was mostly due to the fact that I didn't really feel like being totally reckless and weave in and out of mid-day traffic on the highway.
I saw him coming up pretty quick behind me, cutting people off left and right. He came up right behind me and tailgated me for a while. I gunned it a little and started weaving in and out a little. He hung behind me and then I got caught up in some traffic. He cut across two lanes to the inside and started cutting back and forth and eventually got away.
I said forget it. It wasn't worth it.
#16
I have found it !!!!
Yeah boys and girls, I have found the problem!
Once the winter was over, I went to the car wash (don't flip out yet fellows), to wash my engine.
I opened the hood, inserted coins in the time machine and selected SOAP,
I then sprayed the engine (in the soak mode) and worked my way through the engine and engine bay.
Once the engine was ready for a rinse, I switched to (yes you guessed right) RINSE and sprayed the engine with a bit more pressure (to remove salt deposits, any grime, etc. of course the JWT pop was covered with a plastic bag).
I finished, and let it dry a bit and drove home, no trouble then.
Next morning, I went to start the engine and bingo! the check engine light came on!
Well, I captured the codes 0303 (left AKA front O2 sensor failure to read voltage within range). I went to check the connections and found that the connector was not fully seated. The wire to the connector is fastened to one of those plastic clips and is pulling (somewhat) the cable of the connector also fastened to a bracket in the front of the car.
The wash forced a bit of moisture into the already intermittant contact and forced the error.
I cleaned the contact, reseated the connection and reset the ECU. The check engine light went away (and never came back) and the engine now pulls like it used to.
Now I know that resetting the ECU gives you a temporatry better performance as the algorithm converges to the run-time values it places in flash but since the ECU reset (already a week) the engine pulls the same (like good all times). I am now looking for that damm burgundy I30 and kick his @sssssss.
I had a run against a mustang and did well. I felt the torque stering.
Peace
Once the winter was over, I went to the car wash (don't flip out yet fellows), to wash my engine.
I opened the hood, inserted coins in the time machine and selected SOAP,
I then sprayed the engine (in the soak mode) and worked my way through the engine and engine bay.
Once the engine was ready for a rinse, I switched to (yes you guessed right) RINSE and sprayed the engine with a bit more pressure (to remove salt deposits, any grime, etc. of course the JWT pop was covered with a plastic bag).
I finished, and let it dry a bit and drove home, no trouble then.
Next morning, I went to start the engine and bingo! the check engine light came on!
Well, I captured the codes 0303 (left AKA front O2 sensor failure to read voltage within range). I went to check the connections and found that the connector was not fully seated. The wire to the connector is fastened to one of those plastic clips and is pulling (somewhat) the cable of the connector also fastened to a bracket in the front of the car.
The wash forced a bit of moisture into the already intermittant contact and forced the error.
I cleaned the contact, reseated the connection and reset the ECU. The check engine light went away (and never came back) and the engine now pulls like it used to.
Now I know that resetting the ECU gives you a temporatry better performance as the algorithm converges to the run-time values it places in flash but since the ECU reset (already a week) the engine pulls the same (like good all times). I am now looking for that damm burgundy I30 and kick his @sssssss.
I had a run against a mustang and did well. I felt the torque stering.
Peace
Originally posted by Carlos A
I was in the highway last eve. and there was traffic (you know the slow slugs on the left and a nearly open right lane) so I switched lanes to the right and in front of me a guy in an I30 switch to the same and gunned it. I saw it and gunned it to. He moved pretty quickly and I tried to keep up with him but my car did not move as fast. The engine made alot of noise (roaring JWT Pop and Y pipe) but could not get that acceleration (from 60 to higher mph).
My max felt heavy-*** sluggish. How many of you guys have had this happen?
I had the pedal to the metal and with my mods I thought I can kick his *** but ...
C'mon guys, help a fellow Max friend.
Peace,
I was in the highway last eve. and there was traffic (you know the slow slugs on the left and a nearly open right lane) so I switched lanes to the right and in front of me a guy in an I30 switch to the same and gunned it. I saw it and gunned it to. He moved pretty quickly and I tried to keep up with him but my car did not move as fast. The engine made alot of noise (roaring JWT Pop and Y pipe) but could not get that acceleration (from 60 to higher mph).
My max felt heavy-*** sluggish. How many of you guys have had this happen?
I had the pedal to the metal and with my mods I thought I can kick his *** but ...
C'mon guys, help a fellow Max friend.
Peace,
#17
Don't forget about production variances. Some cars that come out of the factory are just 'faster' based on a good meshing of materials and components from the factory. You could have two of the exact same car, and get a 1/2-1 second difference between these cars. Some cars are just faster than others.
#18
Re: I have found it !!!!
Yo ... is it SAFE to wash your engine like that?????
Damn ... I want to wash my engine ... but I'm afraid it will get Hydralocked ... Did U have to Tape up or wrap anything???? OR did ya just use the High Pressure spray and just wash??
Damn ... I want to wash my engine ... but I'm afraid it will get Hydralocked ... Did U have to Tape up or wrap anything???? OR did ya just use the High Pressure spray and just wash??
Originally posted by Carlos A
Yeah boys and girls, I have found the problem!
Once the winter was over, I went to the car wash (don't flip out yet fellows), to wash my engine.
I opened the hood, inserted coins in the time machine and selected SOAP,
I then sprayed the engine (in the soak mode) and worked my way through the engine and engine bay.
Once the engine was ready for a rinse, I switched to (yes you guessed right) RINSE and sprayed the engine with a bit more pressure (to remove salt deposits, any grime, etc. of course the JWT pop was covered with a plastic bag).
I finished, and let it dry a bit and drove home, no trouble then.
Next morning, I went to start the engine and bingo! the check engine light came on!
Well, I captured the codes 0303 (left AKA front O2 sensor failure to read voltage within range). I went to check the connections and found that the connector was not fully seated. The wire to the connector is fastened to one of those plastic clips and is pulling (somewhat) the cable of the connector also fastened to a bracket in the front of the car.
The wash forced a bit of moisture into the already intermittant contact and forced the error.
I cleaned the contact, reseated the connection and reset the ECU. The check engine light went away (and never came back) and the engine now pulls like it used to.
Now I know that resetting the ECU gives you a temporatry better performance as the algorithm converges to the run-time values it places in flash but since the ECU reset (already a week) the engine pulls the same (like good all times). I am now looking for that damm burgundy I30 and kick his @sssssss.
I had a run against a mustang and did well. I felt the torque stering.
Peace
Yeah boys and girls, I have found the problem!
Once the winter was over, I went to the car wash (don't flip out yet fellows), to wash my engine.
I opened the hood, inserted coins in the time machine and selected SOAP,
I then sprayed the engine (in the soak mode) and worked my way through the engine and engine bay.
Once the engine was ready for a rinse, I switched to (yes you guessed right) RINSE and sprayed the engine with a bit more pressure (to remove salt deposits, any grime, etc. of course the JWT pop was covered with a plastic bag).
I finished, and let it dry a bit and drove home, no trouble then.
Next morning, I went to start the engine and bingo! the check engine light came on!
Well, I captured the codes 0303 (left AKA front O2 sensor failure to read voltage within range). I went to check the connections and found that the connector was not fully seated. The wire to the connector is fastened to one of those plastic clips and is pulling (somewhat) the cable of the connector also fastened to a bracket in the front of the car.
The wash forced a bit of moisture into the already intermittant contact and forced the error.
I cleaned the contact, reseated the connection and reset the ECU. The check engine light went away (and never came back) and the engine now pulls like it used to.
Now I know that resetting the ECU gives you a temporatry better performance as the algorithm converges to the run-time values it places in flash but since the ECU reset (already a week) the engine pulls the same (like good all times). I am now looking for that damm burgundy I30 and kick his @sssssss.
I had a run against a mustang and did well. I felt the torque stering.
Peace
#20
Re: Re: I have found it !!!!
Empz
Sure thing, spray away!
If you have a Pop charger or a Stillen Hi-flow intake you need to cover it with a plastic bag (double is better) and tight it at the neck with a rubber band.
As for any connections and wrapping those, worry no more. Think of it, when you dirve in the rain on the hinghway behind an 18 wheeler, you get a strong spray (mainly because of the speed) and when you open the hood you wil notice that your engine is soaking wet. It turns out that all engines must be able to be water tight and operate in these conditions OK.
Only when you have your intake is totally submerged in water and the engine is on should you have problems with hydro-locking.
I have washed my engine over 20 times so far, with no trouble (actually the last time it actually helped me in finding an elusive problem). My friends regularly do this with (get this) a regular garden hose as part of washing the car every weekend.
The result: a clean engine and no rust! (specially in the northen states where salt is an issue).
Just be careful with your aftermarket intake (if you have one). The CAI is a bit more tricky because the filter in vertically positioned under the wheel well and that is more challenging to cover with the trusty plastic bag, you might have to find a more sound way to prevent water to sip through to the filter, but again, you do not have the engine on and it can easily be whiped dry on the edges.
One thin to keep in mind is that high pressure washers are not always very friendly because at the limit the jet stream might force connectors to become lose. Just mind the pressure (keep som distance from the engine say 3-4 feet). Anything good is good but in excess is hurtful.
As usual :
DISCLAIMER: If you like to do what I did, you do so under your own initiative and I am not liable in any form for any injury or damage to your property.
(This is a general statement and is not directed as a flame of any sort to anyone, I am just covering my posterior)
Peace
Sure thing, spray away!
If you have a Pop charger or a Stillen Hi-flow intake you need to cover it with a plastic bag (double is better) and tight it at the neck with a rubber band.
As for any connections and wrapping those, worry no more. Think of it, when you dirve in the rain on the hinghway behind an 18 wheeler, you get a strong spray (mainly because of the speed) and when you open the hood you wil notice that your engine is soaking wet. It turns out that all engines must be able to be water tight and operate in these conditions OK.
Only when you have your intake is totally submerged in water and the engine is on should you have problems with hydro-locking.
I have washed my engine over 20 times so far, with no trouble (actually the last time it actually helped me in finding an elusive problem). My friends regularly do this with (get this) a regular garden hose as part of washing the car every weekend.
The result: a clean engine and no rust! (specially in the northen states where salt is an issue).
Just be careful with your aftermarket intake (if you have one). The CAI is a bit more tricky because the filter in vertically positioned under the wheel well and that is more challenging to cover with the trusty plastic bag, you might have to find a more sound way to prevent water to sip through to the filter, but again, you do not have the engine on and it can easily be whiped dry on the edges.
One thin to keep in mind is that high pressure washers are not always very friendly because at the limit the jet stream might force connectors to become lose. Just mind the pressure (keep som distance from the engine say 3-4 feet). Anything good is good but in excess is hurtful.
As usual :
DISCLAIMER: If you like to do what I did, you do so under your own initiative and I am not liable in any form for any injury or damage to your property.
(This is a general statement and is not directed as a flame of any sort to anyone, I am just covering my posterior)
Peace
Originally posted by Empz
Yo ... is it SAFE to wash your engine like that?????
Damn ... I want to wash my engine ... but I'm afraid it will get Hydralocked ... Did U have to Tape up or wrap anything???? OR did ya just use the High Pressure spray and just wash??
Yo ... is it SAFE to wash your engine like that?????
Damn ... I want to wash my engine ... but I'm afraid it will get Hydralocked ... Did U have to Tape up or wrap anything???? OR did ya just use the High Pressure spray and just wash??
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Finkle
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
13
09-27-2015 09:53 PM
kjm900r
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
6
08-05-2015 07:14 AM