Went to the track yesterday
I ran a 13.87 @ 100.25 mph with a 2.184 60 foot time.
I ran a 14.07 last week. Looks like Lorens fuel pressure mod works!!!
I love all the comments I receive at the track being the only Maxima there. Here are a few samples:
"How did you get this car to go fast?"
"This is an unusual application"
"Your car is badass!!!"
"This car is fast"
"I've got a maxima at home"
"your car is respectable"
"Where did you get the brackets for the SC?"
"I didn't know they made SC's for maximas??"
I ran a 14.07 last week. Looks like Lorens fuel pressure mod works!!!
I love all the comments I receive at the track being the only Maxima there. Here are a few samples:
"How did you get this car to go fast?"
"This is an unusual application"
"Your car is badass!!!"
"This car is fast"
"I've got a maxima at home"
"your car is respectable"
"Where did you get the brackets for the SC?"
"I didn't know they made SC's for maximas??"
Nice run...
Wow...getting an fwd auto sedan into the 13's is quite an accomplishment. I'll be thinking of you when I pull my 0-60s in the low 8s.
Just curious Steve, how do you launch your auto SC at the track?
And for chrissake, when are those LSDs from quaiffe coming out?
Just curious Steve, how do you launch your auto SC at the track?
And for chrissake, when are those LSDs from quaiffe coming out?
lanching
I'll stall it up to 2500 and drop the hammer. It hooks decent at 30psi with a burnout prior. It always seems my first run or two at the track goes up in smoke but after that it starts to hook.
Are these the directions? (found it in my old email)
I have noticed over the last year I would get occasionally a drop in base fuel pressure after letting off boost. A quick tap of the throttle would bring it back up. I have noticed that from time to time I would get some fuel leaking from the hard line fitting that the
feed hose for the auxiliary fuel pump goes to. I have tightened the clamps and replaced the hose, but it would still come back.
I finally found out why. The auxiliary fuel pump runs off a Hobbs switch that allows it to only run under boost. When you let off and go out of boost, the fuel pump immediately stops and blocks some of the fuel flow dropping the pressure. This stoppage creates backpressure in the line and caused the fitting to leak due to the pressure. If the backpressure was great enough, it could actually damage the in-tank pump.
I originally thought about pulling the in-line pump and replacing it with a higher flow in-tank pump. I was suggested to just run the auxiliary pump all the time. I talked to Vortech and they said the T-Rex pump was designed for 100% duty cycle. So, I tried it. The fuel pressure stays very consistent and does not run rich under non-boost conditions.
I strongly recommend that all SC owners do the same. If you feel any jerkiness going into and out of boost, it may be related to the same problem. To run the pump all the time when the engine is running, just unplug the vacuum line going to it and cap it off. There are no ill effects since it only provides additional load for the fuel that is already there.
Location = a little bit behind the battery.
It’s not that blue cylinder thing with the tube coming out the top. Its smaller than that. Probably just in front of that device.
Which tube --> look where the vacuum line goes into the little thing in from the throttle body. In the stock setup, just a tube connects there. With the supercharger installed that tube has been slip with a T connector. The extension that needs to be pulled comes from the T connector and connects to a switch(that switches on...activates off based above a vacuum). Just pull this one tube off the side of the switch.
I just pulled the tube off, folded the end over, and wrapped a piece duct tape around it. You know you did it right if you put your key in the on position, you can hear the extra fuel pump(on don't have to actually start the car).
Yes I did do the mod for the hobb switch. Does it really do anything I honestly doubt it, b/c I really don't feel the car is anymore responsive. It just makes the fuel pump stay on all the time instead of it turning on and off. It’s more efficient for it to stay on though. Lemme think the hobb switch is the gold/brownish piece on the driver side where the auxillery fuel pump is. There is one hose that runs to the hobb switch and that is the hose you plug up. Just take that hose off and plug it up wa-la your finished.
[Edited by jgadlage on 09-28-2000 at 04:23 PM]
feed hose for the auxiliary fuel pump goes to. I have tightened the clamps and replaced the hose, but it would still come back.
I finally found out why. The auxiliary fuel pump runs off a Hobbs switch that allows it to only run under boost. When you let off and go out of boost, the fuel pump immediately stops and blocks some of the fuel flow dropping the pressure. This stoppage creates backpressure in the line and caused the fitting to leak due to the pressure. If the backpressure was great enough, it could actually damage the in-tank pump.
I originally thought about pulling the in-line pump and replacing it with a higher flow in-tank pump. I was suggested to just run the auxiliary pump all the time. I talked to Vortech and they said the T-Rex pump was designed for 100% duty cycle. So, I tried it. The fuel pressure stays very consistent and does not run rich under non-boost conditions.
I strongly recommend that all SC owners do the same. If you feel any jerkiness going into and out of boost, it may be related to the same problem. To run the pump all the time when the engine is running, just unplug the vacuum line going to it and cap it off. There are no ill effects since it only provides additional load for the fuel that is already there.
Location = a little bit behind the battery.
It’s not that blue cylinder thing with the tube coming out the top. Its smaller than that. Probably just in front of that device.
Which tube --> look where the vacuum line goes into the little thing in from the throttle body. In the stock setup, just a tube connects there. With the supercharger installed that tube has been slip with a T connector. The extension that needs to be pulled comes from the T connector and connects to a switch(that switches on...activates off based above a vacuum). Just pull this one tube off the side of the switch.
I just pulled the tube off, folded the end over, and wrapped a piece duct tape around it. You know you did it right if you put your key in the on position, you can hear the extra fuel pump(on don't have to actually start the car).
Yes I did do the mod for the hobb switch. Does it really do anything I honestly doubt it, b/c I really don't feel the car is anymore responsive. It just makes the fuel pump stay on all the time instead of it turning on and off. It’s more efficient for it to stay on though. Lemme think the hobb switch is the gold/brownish piece on the driver side where the auxillery fuel pump is. There is one hose that runs to the hobb switch and that is the hose you plug up. Just take that hose off and plug it up wa-la your finished.
[Edited by jgadlage on 09-28-2000 at 04:23 PM]
No Bigmax
You have no blower so all of the above doesn't apply to you. The s/c kit has a second fuel pump to supplement the primary one. This is only needed because of the increased fuel requirements under boost, hence you don't have this.
Outstanding run! Can't wait til we meet up at a local track sometime. Just you wait you and your S/C. Wait til I get my Y-pipe and ECU. Just you wait - until I ask real nice..."Could I get ride?"
Re: CONGRADS
Originally posted by NeO OnE 2
WoW , you are the first 13 sec auto Max that I know. Were you running on slicks or street tires?
WoW , you are the first 13 sec auto Max that I know. Were you running on slicks or street tires?
Re: Re: Are these the directions? (found it in my old email)
Originally posted by Nismo87SE
This has to be added to a FAQ somewhere. I bet alot of the new S/C owners didn't know about this old school trick.
Originally posted by jgadlage
This has to be added to a FAQ somewhere. I bet alot of the new S/C owners didn't know about this old school trick.
Originally posted by jgadlage
Congrats Steve, but this i know this isnt your first trip ito the 13's. (Gotta love newbies)
Maybe some of you guys should look @ his sig. He has been 13's and will stay there.
Don is NOSed and runs 12's, not 13's. He runs 14.2's (or so) off the bottle.
I believe the fuel mod is for the boosted guys only, not use NOSed or N/A guys.
BTW-i30krab is 13 second auto himself. He was a NE guy but now living in NV.
Maybe some of you guys should look @ his sig. He has been 13's and will stay there.

Don is NOSed and runs 12's, not 13's. He runs 14.2's (or so) off the bottle.
I believe the fuel mod is for the boosted guys only, not use NOSed or N/A guys.

BTW-i30krab is 13 second auto himself. He was a NE guy but now living in NV.
Originally posted by Synki
Don is NOSed and runs 12's, not 13's. He runs 14.2's (or so) off the bottle.
Don is NOSed and runs 12's, not 13's. He runs 14.2's (or so) off the bottle.
14.1 NA
nothing agaist you Sinki... just trying to clear things up for the other guys.

But this is becoming academic...
Originally posted by Frezny
12.2 WITH early shift problems on bottle
14.1 NA
nothing agaist you Sinki... just trying to clear things up for the other guys.
But this is becoming academic...
12.2 WITH early shift problems on bottle
14.1 NA
nothing agaist you Sinki... just trying to clear things up for the other guys.

But this is becoming academic...
It should be cleared up though b/c everyone does seen to have dif #. Cant forget me...i am an auto 13's.
Originally posted by Synki
Congrats Steve, but this i know this isnt your first trip ito the 13's. (Gotta love newbies)
Maybe some of you guys should look @ his sig. He has been 13's and will stay there.
Don is NOSed and runs 12's, not 13's. He runs 14.2's (or so) off the bottle.
BTW-i30krab is 13 second auto himself. He was a NE guy but now living in NV.
Congrats Steve, but this i know this isnt your first trip ito the 13's. (Gotta love newbies)
Maybe some of you guys should look @ his sig. He has been 13's and will stay there.

Don is NOSed and runs 12's, not 13's. He runs 14.2's (or so) off the bottle.
BTW-i30krab is 13 second auto himself. He was a NE guy but now living in NV.
This post is from over a year ago and your calling them newbies!
. BTW did Crab actualy run his car or are you just making a educated guess?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by emax95
[/auote]
Lazy eye huh?
This post is from over a year ago and your calling them newbies!
. BTW did Crab actualy run his car or are you just making a educated guess?
No, i didnt know this post was from a year ago. I thought it was a recent post considering i havent seen this post anytime soon so it makes sense.
Are you being a smart a$$ Ethan? o_O
According to a few other who knew him really well & what i was told, yes he is 13's. Have i seen it no.
ANd who said i was running 50 shot?
[/auote]Lazy eye huh?
This post is from over a year ago and your calling them newbies!
. BTW did Crab actualy run his car or are you just making a educated guess?
Are you being a smart a$$ Ethan? o_O
According to a few other who knew him really well & what i was told, yes he is 13's. Have i seen it no.
ANd who said i was running 50 shot?





There is it. 