"Test Pipe" is on the car...
#1
I had a test pipe made at a local muffler shop when I had the muffler done on my wifes car, they built the cost into the wifes repair bill(LOL, yep, I suck!).
I just measured the length from the flanges on the y-pipe to the b-pipe, ~18". They used 2 1/4"ID mild steel. They made the pipe's flanges the same way they are on the RT-Cat, flared not welded on. The side for the Y-pipe got a 2-1/2"ID flare and the b-pipe got a 2 1/4"ID flare. An O2 fitting was welded on as far back as possible on the pipe. Install was cake, I did it in cunjunction with the short shifter.
According to my "dyno-butt-ometer" their are good increases above 3000rpms. As a guesstimation, ~10hp over the RT-cat w/the straight after cat extension. The low end feels perhaps a bit less, but my "dyno-butt-ometer" isnt that accurate.
The really good news is that the ECU has not thrown a code yet!!!!!!!! I was quite worried about this.
EGT's are also down ~200c! Imagime that?
The sound is quite nice also. I still have the stock muffler and it sounds very smooth at idle, it has a light resonation around 1500-2500rpms, some exhaust wrap will fix this. At WOT its loud, but not Stillen muffler loud.
They arent too strick about emissions here in Lousy-anna so I am not worried about inspections.(pipe down tree huggers)
[Edited by MardiGrasMax on 10-04-2000 at 09:02 PM]
I just measured the length from the flanges on the y-pipe to the b-pipe, ~18". They used 2 1/4"ID mild steel. They made the pipe's flanges the same way they are on the RT-Cat, flared not welded on. The side for the Y-pipe got a 2-1/2"ID flare and the b-pipe got a 2 1/4"ID flare. An O2 fitting was welded on as far back as possible on the pipe. Install was cake, I did it in cunjunction with the short shifter.
According to my "dyno-butt-ometer" their are good increases above 3000rpms. As a guesstimation, ~10hp over the RT-cat w/the straight after cat extension. The low end feels perhaps a bit less, but my "dyno-butt-ometer" isnt that accurate.
The really good news is that the ECU has not thrown a code yet!!!!!!!! I was quite worried about this.
EGT's are also down ~200c! Imagime that?
The sound is quite nice also. I still have the stock muffler and it sounds very smooth at idle, it has a light resonation around 1500-2500rpms, some exhaust wrap will fix this. At WOT its loud, but not Stillen muffler loud.
They arent too strick about emissions here in Lousy-anna so I am not worried about inspections.(pipe down tree huggers)
[Edited by MardiGrasMax on 10-04-2000 at 09:02 PM]
#4
yeah if you pass emissions they really cant do anything to you and no cop is really gonna check anyway. my brother is running a straight pipe on his civic and he passed emissions just fine. the engine should run clean enough to pass without.
#5
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
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MardiGrasMax->
Where did you tap your EGT probe? On the exhaust manifold? If so, off which cylinder? I'm getting my car ready for Nitrous, so I want to get an EGT gauge. Which gauge do you have?
#6
1MAX2NV
I have the APEXi electronic/analog EGT gauge, its sweet! It has a setting that will show you the peek temp after your run, very usefull! It also has a memory setting that will replay up to 30 seconds, I havent used it yet but for track tuning I imagine it would be real usefull. The best feature is a warning light and 12v output. You can wire this so that it the EGT's go higher that 800c (or what ever) it will cut the nitrous off! It was about $250 with the probe. Autometer makes a regular gauge that is cheeper but I liked the extra bells & wistles.
I have the probe taped into the front exhaust manufold where the 3 runners come together. You can get a second temp. probe for ~$60 and put it on the back bank of cylinders and use a switch so change between them, but it looks like a pain in the a$$ to put it on the rear manifold. When I drilled the probe hole and taped it I left the car running so the metal chips would blow out. When I screwed the probe adapter into the taped hole I used some of that high temp exhaust manifold repair goo as if it were teflon.
I have the probe taped into the front exhaust manufold where the 3 runners come together. You can get a second temp. probe for ~$60 and put it on the back bank of cylinders and use a switch so change between them, but it looks like a pain in the a$$ to put it on the rear manifold. When I drilled the probe hole and taped it I left the car running so the metal chips would blow out. When I screwed the probe adapter into the taped hole I used some of that high temp exhaust manifold repair goo as if it were teflon.
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