Battery Drain-need to find the cause
01-27-2005, 07:03 AM
#1
Battery Drain-need to find the cause
As the title states, I'm having a problem with a voltage drain somewhere in the car that is killing batteries. So far in the last few years, it killed the stock battery, a $180 Holley batter, an Optima Red top, and it's on it's way to killing my current battery.
Basically what's going on is, if I parked my car for more than 1-2 days, the battery would be dead. At first, I thought it was because of the stereo. Then I thought I had a bad battery. I was driving my car every day at the time, so it really wasn't a big deal, the car would start fine if driven every day.
In the past year, the car has become more of a project car, so it's not driven nearly as much. The entire stereo is out of the car, there are no speakers or amps at all right now. I replaced the alternator (which I thought was causing the problem) with a 200 amp model from Can Am. I also replaced the dead Optima.
The car has been sitting for 3 months now while we worked on some things, battery was disconnected and so on. Last night, I charged everything up and cranked it for the first time in like 3 months, it was fine. So I left the battery connected and this morning, the car is totally dead again. No lights, nothing.
With the new alternator, new battery, and no stereo, I'm running out of ideas as to what is causing this. The battery is in the trunk because of the turbo, but my problems started before the relocation. I've checked the power and grounds, and everything seems to be in order. Next step is to take a voltmeter and check everything, but that is going to be extrordinarily tedious.
Basically what's going on is, if I parked my car for more than 1-2 days, the battery would be dead. At first, I thought it was because of the stereo. Then I thought I had a bad battery. I was driving my car every day at the time, so it really wasn't a big deal, the car would start fine if driven every day.
In the past year, the car has become more of a project car, so it's not driven nearly as much. The entire stereo is out of the car, there are no speakers or amps at all right now. I replaced the alternator (which I thought was causing the problem) with a 200 amp model from Can Am. I also replaced the dead Optima.
The car has been sitting for 3 months now while we worked on some things, battery was disconnected and so on. Last night, I charged everything up and cranked it for the first time in like 3 months, it was fine. So I left the battery connected and this morning, the car is totally dead again. No lights, nothing.
With the new alternator, new battery, and no stereo, I'm running out of ideas as to what is causing this. The battery is in the trunk because of the turbo, but my problems started before the relocation. I've checked the power and grounds, and everything seems to be in order. Next step is to take a voltmeter and check everything, but that is going to be extrordinarily tedious.
01-28-2005, 12:07 PM
#7
No electronics in the car other than the emanage. Stereo is totally out. Negative terminal is tightened down, I checked that first. The car is going into the shop monday for the new MAF and nitrous so while we're wiring those, we'll be checking the rest of the electrical while we're at it.
01-28-2005, 04:00 PM
#10
Wow Shadow I've been having the same exact problem... its usually overnight... 2 days at the most.
Its not the alarm or remote start, I completely disconnected them for a week and I still had the problem, its not my system either.
I went to an electrical shop and they told me that the power window fuse located under the hood was taking in quite a bit of electricity for some reason... the car is going back tomorrow to the shop to see what can be done.
Its not the alarm or remote start, I completely disconnected them for a week and I still had the problem, its not my system either.
I went to an electrical shop and they told me that the power window fuse located under the hood was taking in quite a bit of electricity for some reason... the car is going back tomorrow to the shop to see what can be done.
01-28-2005, 06:04 PM
#11
hook up an ammeter to the battery and see what kind of draw it has with the car off
with the ammeter still hooked up, start pulling fuses and see if you can find one that changes the draw. When you find that, start checking things on that circuit per the FSM
with the ammeter still hooked up, start pulling fuses and see if you can find one that changes the draw. When you find that, start checking things on that circuit per the FSM
01-29-2005, 10:17 AM
#14
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
Make sure the trunk light is turning off when the trunk is closed.
01-31-2005, 05:49 AM
#18
I had a similar problem with my car....it turned out to be the diodes in the atl. had gone bad. They act as a check valve, and only should let current go to the battery. When they go out they let current pass both ways therefore draining your battery while it is stitting still. I went to advanced auto and their electrical testing machine was able to test this. Its a free test and something that you guys may want to look into. But my car ran fine and charged the battery fine but it would die while it was sitting, and it was the diodes....I replaced the alt. and everything was fine.
01-31-2005, 07:56 AM
#19
I can also say I'm in the same predicament, first off I have a relocated battery second I thought that was the prob but it was like that before now it’s more noticeable. I got the battery tested its fine I got the alternator tested its fine went ahead and changed the alternator still not solved switched back to my original alty same voltage reading. Now I notice that my IAC is making a ticking noise with the key on not engine start. I checked all the connections with my volt meter to see if all my connectors were reading the proper voltage what I find is that my IAC is only reading 11.5 volts I probe back to my ECCS fuse it reads 13.6 volts now I also checked my MAF it also reads 11.5 volts some reason that whole side from the ECCS and so on it's a red wire with silver striping it powers first the MAF then up to the IAC and along that whole side of connections all the way inside the car to the ECU and spliced there is my SAFC which it gets power from also reads 11.5 volts. Now I'm stuck I can't figure out were the ECCS relay is and in the manual if there isn't battery voltage present with key on at the IAC and MAF then I need to check the relay for proper resistance. I jumped a wire on that side of connections to give it proper voltage and surprisingly my car no longer hesitates but now my car idles really funny and I took it off the IAC was still clicking but now I have a new prob there is a loud screeching noise coming from under the hood as I begin to start the car. It's a big mess and now I'm totally LOST I'm so frustrated with this I opened up most of the wiring looking for a break no break I'm just burned out of ideas but persistence will pay off. 
01-31-2005, 01:20 PM
#21
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
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Disconnect the neg. post of the batttery.
Put a test light (better yet a multi meter) between it and the battery.
If you have a drain, the light should come on or read some + voltage.
Start pulling fuse one by one and check out the light or reading.
When you pull the right fuse, the light should go off or the reading will drop to really low.
I have all my aftermarket accessories on separate fused power wires. I pulled those fuses first since I tend to blame aftermarket stuff before OEM stuff.
In the end, my problem was a bad Optima battery. The battery tested okay but for some reason it won't hold charge sitting for more than 3 days. I think it had bad plates in it so I bought another one. No more drain.
Put a test light (better yet a multi meter) between it and the battery.
If you have a drain, the light should come on or read some + voltage.
Start pulling fuse one by one and check out the light or reading.
When you pull the right fuse, the light should go off or the reading will drop to really low.
I have all my aftermarket accessories on separate fused power wires. I pulled those fuses first since I tend to blame aftermarket stuff before OEM stuff.
In the end, my problem was a bad Optima battery. The battery tested okay but for some reason it won't hold charge sitting for more than 3 days. I think it had bad plates in it so I bought another one. No more drain.
02-01-2005, 07:16 PM
#22
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 28
Originally Posted by japmaxSE
I can also say I'm in the same predicament, first off I have a relocated battery second I thought that was the prob but it was like that before now it’s more noticeable. I got the battery tested its fine I got the alternator tested its fine went ahead and changed the alternator still not solved switched back to my original alty same voltage reading. Now I notice that my IAC is making a ticking noise with the key on not engine start. I checked all the connections with my volt meter to see if all my connectors were reading the proper voltage what I find is that my IAC is only reading 11.5 volts I probe back to my ECCS fuse it reads 13.6 volts now I also checked my MAF it also reads 11.5 volts some reason that whole side from the ECCS and so on it's a red wire with silver striping it powers first the MAF then up to the IAC and along that whole side of connections all the way inside the car to the ECU and spliced there is my SAFC which it gets power from also reads 11.5 volts. Now I'm stuck I can't figure out were the ECCS relay is and in the manual if there isn't battery voltage present with key on at the IAC and MAF then I need to check the relay for proper resistance. I jumped a wire on that side of connections to give it proper voltage and surprisingly my car no longer hesitates but now my car idles really funny and I took it off the IAC was still clicking but now I have a new prob there is a loud screeching noise coming from under the hood as I begin to start the car. It's a big mess and now I'm totally LOST I'm so frustrated with this I opened up most of the wiring looking for a break no break I'm just burned out of ideas but persistence will pay off.
just change the wiring harness that will nock it right out.
02-01-2005, 11:22 PM
#23
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 12
I have a similar problem! I first noticed it a while ago but just recently started to work on it again after being stranded twice. :-( I already went through the battery and starter Q&A and replaced them both.
Through using a current meter (and test probe) while removing fuses, I can see drain on fuses #40 & #56. After reading the truck light post, I'm guessing #56 is related to the hood switch. I forgot to disable it while testing. I'm measuring in the fuse/fusible link box (under the hood):
fuse/link# - mA
------------------
56 - 74mA
a - 22.3mA
k - 131mA
The drain is only supposed to be about 20mA according to Haynes and I'm at about 200mA (probably less once I disable the hood switch).
(a) seems okay. (56) & (k) seem high (but one is probably the hood switch). Also I've traced (k) to fuse #40 which has a lot of things on it (MULTI, HORN, AUDIO, A/T, ILL, P/ANT/ TIME, THEFT, COMM, MIL, D/LOCK).
Also Haynes suggest wiggles harnesses to try to locate the short but it's not like much of the harnesses are readily accessible.
-Noel
Through using a current meter (and test probe) while removing fuses, I can see drain on fuses #40 & #56. After reading the truck light post, I'm guessing #56 is related to the hood switch. I forgot to disable it while testing. I'm measuring in the fuse/fusible link box (under the hood):
fuse/link# - mA
------------------
56 - 74mA
a - 22.3mA
k - 131mA
The drain is only supposed to be about 20mA according to Haynes and I'm at about 200mA (probably less once I disable the hood switch).
(a) seems okay. (56) & (k) seem high (but one is probably the hood switch). Also I've traced (k) to fuse #40 which has a lot of things on it (MULTI, HORN, AUDIO, A/T, ILL, P/ANT/ TIME, THEFT, COMM, MIL, D/LOCK).
Also Haynes suggest wiggles harnesses to try to locate the short but it's not like much of the harnesses are readily accessible.
-Noel
02-02-2005, 06:31 AM
#24
I thought it was the voltage regulator in the alternator too, so I was hoping that this new one would fix the problem. It's still happening.
- I have no trunk light, it's been gone forever.
- All the stereo equipment is out of the car right now except for the head unit and screen. But, I've changed 3 stereo setups already since this problem started so I don't think the equipment was faulty.
-This started happening before I relocated the battery, so when I did relocate it, I used new grounds/wires and everything for the battery.
-And it's gone through 3 batteries now as mentioned before, so it's not that. Although I can't believe how crappy Optimas are. Mine won't even take a charge anymore after 2 times of running dead. The crap Autozone battery had been run dead way more times and it's still going.
- I have no trunk light, it's been gone forever.
- All the stereo equipment is out of the car right now except for the head unit and screen. But, I've changed 3 stereo setups already since this problem started so I don't think the equipment was faulty.
-This started happening before I relocated the battery, so when I did relocate it, I used new grounds/wires and everything for the battery.
-And it's gone through 3 batteries now as mentioned before, so it's not that. Although I can't believe how crappy Optimas are. Mine won't even take a charge anymore after 2 times of running dead. The crap Autozone battery had been run dead way more times and it's still going.
Originally Posted by cardana24
I had a similar problem with my car....it turned out to be the diodes in the atl. had gone bad. They act as a check valve, and only should let current go to the battery. When they go out they let current pass both ways therefore draining your battery while it is stitting still. I went to advanced auto and their electrical testing machine was able to test this. Its a free test and something that you guys may want to look into. But my car ran fine and charged the battery fine but it would die while it was sitting, and it was the diodes....I replaced the alt. and everything was fine.
02-02-2005, 08:42 AM
#25
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Jeff...you basically want to pin point which circuit the drain is coming from. After that, you can trace the wiring or devices that are on that circuit. By doing what i sugggested, you can narrow it down to one fused circuit. Maybe a local stereo shop can help you out, those guys are much better about auto eletricity than your usual mechanics.
02-02-2005, 08:53 AM
#27
Hopefully my friend's shop where it's going right now will be able to pin the problem down. He does a lot of engine swaps, so he's used to electrical gremlins. If he can't figure it out, guess it's time for a stereo shop.
I think my car just set some sort of record today. I drove it here to work from home, and In the 2.5 hours it's sat, the battery died.
I think my car just set some sort of record today. I drove it here to work from home, and In the 2.5 hours it's sat, the battery died.
Originally Posted by 1MAX2NV
Jeff...you basically want to pin point which circuit the drain is coming from. After that, you can trace the wiring or devices that are on that circuit. By doing what i sugggested, you can narrow it down to one fused circuit. Maybe a local stereo shop can help you out, those guys are much better about auto eletricity than your usual mechanics.
02-02-2005, 12:11 PM
#29
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 12
I found the problem with my car. It is the Bose stock CD/radio.
It consumes almost all of the engine off/sitting idle current. I disconnected the radio until I figure-out if/when I want to replace it. :-(
Some troubleshooting notes:
o The hood switch will consume about 70mA or so. Depress it and leave it depressed for about 30 secs. or so. I think the security system goes idle after this time. If you don't wait then your measurements will be bad. After the 30 secs. - 70mA less drain measured.
o Since the drain was on fuse #40 which had the cd/radio, I decided to disconnect it (one of the easier things to disconnect). It didn't take too long to remove it. I used the instructions here:
http://carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalNisMax2.htm
Follow them carefully and slowly and you will be fine. The connectors on the back of the Bose system each have a small white release that must be depressed in towards the middle of the connector while removing.
Good luck everyone and thanks for the tips.
-Noel
It consumes almost all of the engine off/sitting idle current. I disconnected the radio until I figure-out if/when I want to replace it. :-(
Some troubleshooting notes:
o The hood switch will consume about 70mA or so. Depress it and leave it depressed for about 30 secs. or so. I think the security system goes idle after this time. If you don't wait then your measurements will be bad. After the 30 secs. - 70mA less drain measured.
o Since the drain was on fuse #40 which had the cd/radio, I decided to disconnect it (one of the easier things to disconnect). It didn't take too long to remove it. I used the instructions here:
http://carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalNisMax2.htm
Follow them carefully and slowly and you will be fine. The connectors on the back of the Bose system each have a small white release that must be depressed in towards the middle of the connector while removing.
Good luck everyone and thanks for the tips.
-Noel
02-02-2005, 12:15 PM
#30
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 12
A couple of additional notes:
o You will have some drain for a short period after open and closing the doors. Wait for about 30 secs.
o My drain after disconnect the cd/radio is between 2-20mA (normal). :-)
-Noel
o You will have some drain for a short period after open and closing the doors. Wait for about 30 secs.
o My drain after disconnect the cd/radio is between 2-20mA (normal). :-)
-Noel
02-04-2005, 08:28 AM
#33
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 12
I'm wondering why people think the battery drain would be related to a bad ground. I would think the bad ground would lessen current flow and show up as strange electrical problems and not a dead battery. But I could justify that a bad ground could make the electrics run improperly and possibly consume more current (or prevent charging).
Has anyone noticed conclusively that a bad ground has caused their battery to die?
-Noel
Has anyone noticed conclusively that a bad ground has caused their battery to die?
-Noel
02-04-2005, 09:03 AM
#34
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
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Cycling a car battery will cut it's hold capacity dramatically. Bad ground cause the battery not to be charged. Let's say a fresh charged battery can start a car 50 times. After that 50th time, it cycles once. You either jump it or slow charge it with a charger. Now, with a full charge, it can only starts 25 times. With a jump, you get the car running. But with a bad ground, you aren't charging the battery. You just cycle the battery again. You can kill a battery pretty quick that way. Battery drain or bad ground leds to cycling the battery. Cycling battery leds to a dead battery. There is some correlation there.
Has anyone noticed conclusively that a bad ground has caused their battery to die?
-Noel
Originally Posted by nstjohn
Has anyone noticed conclusively that a bad ground has caused their battery to die?
-Noel
02-05-2005, 01:30 PM
#35
Well still not solved, I disconnected every accessory wire that powers my alarm, radio, amp , TV and DVD and still same thing something is draining the hell out of my battery with key on and engine start it goes from 12.5volts to 11.8volts in 1min and 15 sec. 
I have a reading of 11.8volts on the MAF, IAC etc side only I checked and replaced the relay and still same thing.
It has to be something in the wiring that's causing it to drain I just can't find it I don't know what else to do.
Change the wiring harness
I have a reading of 11.8volts on the MAF, IAC etc side only I checked and replaced the relay and still same thing.
It has to be something in the wiring that's causing it to drain I just can't find it I don't know what else to do.
Change the wiring harness
02-05-2005, 03:14 PM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 1,329
Originally Posted by japmaxSE
Well still not solved, I disconnected every accessory wire that powers my alarm, radio, amp , TV and DVD and still same thing something is draining the hell out of my battery with key on and engine start it goes from 12.5volts to 11.8volts in 1min and 15 sec.
I have a reading of 11.8volts on the MAF, IAC etc side only I checked and replaced the relay and still same thing.
It has to be something in the wiring that's causing it to drain I just can't find it I don't know what else to do.
Change the wiring harness
I have a reading of 11.8volts on the MAF, IAC etc side only I checked and replaced the relay and still same thing.
It has to be something in the wiring that's causing it to drain I just can't find it I don't know what else to do.
Change the wiring harness
02-07-2005, 03:00 PM
#37
Originally Posted by sascuderi
Wait. Are you saying that with the key on and the engine running the voltage drops from 12.5 to 11.8? With the engine running the voltage of the system should come up to 14 volts. If it doesn't them the alternator isn't working correctly.
with the key on it drops from 12.5 to 11.8 volts.
with engine on 13.4 while crusing it drops to 12.7 volts.
I found out that I'm not geting any power out of my Start Sig fuse 7.5 amp in the fuse block inside the car also no power @ the INT Illum fuse 7.5 amp.
02-07-2005, 03:46 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: South Jersey
Posts: 1,329
Originally Posted by japmaxSE
Sorry,
with the key on it drops from 12.5 to 11.8 volts.
with engine on 13.4 while crusing it drops to 12.7 volts.
I found out that I'm not geting any power out of my Start Sig fuse 7.5 amp in the fuse block inside the car also no power @ the INT Illum fuse 7.5 amp.
with the key on it drops from 12.5 to 11.8 volts.
with engine on 13.4 while crusing it drops to 12.7 volts.
I found out that I'm not geting any power out of my Start Sig fuse 7.5 amp in the fuse block inside the car also no power @ the INT Illum fuse 7.5 amp.
This is what I get in both cars. Key on/engine off 11.8 volts. Key on/engine on at idle 14.0 volts. When cruising, 14.0 - 14.3 volts
I am no expert and would like someone with electrical knowledge to chime in, but I have read that if the charging system doesn't show at least 13.8 to 14.5 volts when cruising that the battery will be under charged and will likely fail in short order.
03-17-2005, 02:33 PM
#40
Ok, we may have found the cause of my battery drain, but I'm not sure yet. In the engine compartment, when we pull the ALT.S fuse and the BCM fuse, the test light shows that is the cause of the drain. I don't have my manual in front of me, so can anyone enlighten me as to what those fuses are? I'm pretty sure the ALT.S fuse is alternator related obviously. My old one died a while back, and replaced with a new one.
