My MIL is on. Pulled the code and it was 1205. L/Press SOL/CIRC. My 1-2 shift is super hard so something is wrong with Line pressure solenoid valve. One wierd thing I notice was two days before the MIL, the dropping resistor by the driver side strut tower was burning hot. I was messing around under the engine and happen to touch the dropping resistor. Isn't this the connector that people detach to get the firm shifts? Anyway, my question is this. Has anyone ever had to replace the dropping resistor? Here are some pictures of the dropping resistor.

 

That resistor will get hot, just look at the size of it. That's why we haven't been able to rig a rheostat in series with it yet.

According to my transmission manual (thanks Drewe, your original is going in tomorrow's mail) the resistance should register between 11.2 and 12.8 ohms. Obviously, measure it with the connector off. If it is within spec, then check your wiring harness and connectors. Good Luck.

 

Does it cover manual trans? HOOK ME UP KEITH!!!

 

Sorry Matt, it is for the auto only. Haynes usually covers manual trannies pretty well. I haven't seen the 4th gen Haynes book, but I used their manual to rebuild 2 MG transmissions. Dis-assembly, re-assembly and inspection instructions were very accurate.

 

Yes, that absolutely is the resistor that, when unplugged, gives the hard shifts. Yours may be bad. The user mzmtg on here is the guy who rigged the switch for that.
I unplugged it on my Altima, and the results are the same. You'd better get something done ASAP unless you like tranny rebuilds.

 

Why would it be bad for the tranny? I know the line pressure is at the max, but as long as I don't overcook the fluid. It should be ok. It's shifting harder, but the valve body kit does the same thing. It increase the line pressure.

 

I don't know for sure if it is bad for the transmission because I haven't taken a reading on the pressure with the resistor disconnected. There are two plugs on the side of the tranny housing that you can hook a pressure gauge to. I don't have the manual in front of me now, so I can't tell you what the nominal readings should be with the resistor in place. If you find out where to get the correct pressure gauge, let me know. I'd like to see what the pressure does as you vary the resistance on that circuit.

IIRC, there were some warnings with the Transgo kit about overpressure damaging some a/t parts. Have you checked on the price of the resistor?

 

Does the kit allow instant shifts at w.o.t.? Or just firmer ones? Its the instant shift with maximum power that will cause damage. The valve body must do something else, or all you would need is a modified line pressure solenoid. Of course, they wouldn't make as much money on that.
Well, after much discussion a couple months ago on this topic as a performance mod, most decided that it would hurt more than help. Some kid on Altimas.net drove around with it unplugged for 1500 miles and got a trans rebuild for his trouble. Add about 50% torque to that scenario and we have your situation. Maybe not. Maybe the Max trans is built alot heavier. Maybe it'll be your CV joints that go first.

 

Back from the dealer and wasted $68 for diagnostic. I should have used the money and bought a multi-meter =) The tech hooked it up to consult and then did some trouble shooting. The dropping resistor is bad. It's open circuit all the time. The local dealer wants $60 for the part, but I just put an order in at Vestor's nissan 1-800-572-2005 for the part ~$25 plus shipping.

 

The VB modification is more complex than increasing the line pressure. Continuous line pressure increase will heat up the fluid BIG TIME, and over a short period of time "glaze" the clutches because of the heat. Please do not include the "un-hooking a wire" mod, with a time-proven, track-proven, longevity-proven upgrade.

Don