Has anyone here removed there gas tank for an Aluminum Fuel Cell
Does anyone here know how much the stock gas tank Weighs on a 95-99 max?

 

I doubt it. Guinea pig it and let us know how it goes. Only person I can think of is Jime who just has a supplemental, separate fuel cell, I don't believe he replaced his stock tank.

 

I wouldn't remove it. The benefit of a fuel cell is hyped and over rated. The stock tank is very close to the COG if not below. The only place a fuel cell will fit is in the trunk and that raises the COG. You may be lighter but not much. And it will be at the cost of optimal weight distribution. In most cases I'd say that anything to lose a few pounds is worth it but not for this.

 

Hmm yeah I'm thinking about it but not sure if it's worth it I'll do it if it weighs more than 30lbs.

 

Just drive around with no more than a 1/4 tank of gas at a time. When you get to E, stop and put in $10.

 

You crazy ****, going all out are we?

 

Aiming for 11s N/A like the rest of 'em, are we? Start gutting that interior.

 

JClaw and japmaxse, you guys need to change your name or something. LOL I always get you confused cause you have the ssimilar goals for your cars. Similar goals to mine as well. Except I like doing it with boost. But weight reduction is the best. I'm addicted. Hmm... That could be a problem though cause there is only so much car there to remove.

 

gastank on a 3rd gen doesn't weigh that much. I'll toss one on the scale later (but it still has gas in it)

 

I will be doing this sooner or later going for 3-5 gallon tank and getting rid of the evap stuff.
I want it to still fill like stock i may have to get a custom one...

 

Actually I am aiming for 12s with slicks, not 11s. But a few guys are already talking about 11s N/A. Anything is possible, I guess.

But I will have the fastest maxima to look bone stock, right down to the wheels.

 

I'm obsessed with this I just keep thinking of ways to lighten the car I can't help it. As we speak I'm removing all of the AC components inside the car blower, Evap etc..I did my friends CRX and I was surprised how much that stuff weighed it had to be at least 15+lbs. I'm also thinking of maybe keeping the stock tank and using an auxiliary tank for race gas. hmmm but something has to go .. I'm aiming for 2600lbs and then will see who's the fastest NA max SR20's 12.8 will be old news 11's

 

What else is there to remove in the A/C system besides the evaporator from inside the car? That only weighs five pounds. I'm seriously contemplating doing away with the heat. I can't decide because I often use the heat in the middle of summer. I almost always have the windows down. When cruising I especially like to have the windows down and here in Madison average nightly temps are in the 50's in the dead of Summer. Removing all of the climate control stuff would drop another 50lbs at least from the car and it would clean up the engine bay. Hmm... Racecars don't have heat.

 

At first when I read it, i thought you mean cell fuel as some kind of renewable source of fuel in place of gasoline. Then after reading it, what is a heck is a fuel cell and what's the point?

 

I remember watching some ricer tv a year or so back... most of them leave their heat on HIGH at the track before a race to help cool the car down... how effective it is, I dunno, but I have heard it before.

 

The cooling system on the Max is one of the strongest assets of the Max. I have never overheated. For that matter I've never seen temps over 190 on hot days. Although, at the track leaving the car off but in the on position with the heat running helps it cool down faster between runs. But then again, how cool do you want it to be when you run?

 

i believe the 4th and 3rd gens share the same gas tank. i know it has the same capacity and they're both metal...

 

It's pretty effective. I once had a car that overheated in stop and go traffic on hot Texas summer days. I could get the temp needle back down below the red zone by turning on the heater full blast.

 

Very good to know

 

Could come in handy.

 

I'm still trying to find out how much the stock tank weighs, anyone...........


Oh has anyone heare taken out there heater core........

 

Why not take the stock one out and install the new tank inside the cabin?

 

Yeah I'm still contemplating on doing this.



You mean in the trunk right? I hope I wouldn't want the tank behind my seat.

 

No I ment over the rear seat, but I know its not a good place for it.

 

going with a fuel cell is a stupid idea unless you want to spend $1000+ for a 5 gallon tank, which is still heavier than the stock one.

the only reason you should switch to that type of tank is if you're having starvation problems when you leave the line or are going around corners.. if that's the case, add some foam baffling or a surge tank to it and call it a day. you can buy the baffling in bricks at many race shops.

the aftermarket tanks are also much heavier than the stock ones. they're designed to take a hit in the trunk and whatnot, your factory is placed in such a spot on the car that it's not in danger of being hit, so it's made of much thinner material. the OE one weighs less than most aftermarket cells over 5 gallons.

Thus, it's a waste of your time in a street car.

 

$1000+ Matt?

You can get plastic 16-gallon fuel cells from Summit for $110-$180 plus the cost of a fuel pump and lines.

 

Yeah and i want a 3-5 gallon one plastic ,i think there less than $100.
Im sure our 17+ gallon tank weighs more than that.

My reasons are weight reduction ,much straighter exaust piping after removal,and mine has rust and will be a problem soon.

 

So you're going to drive around everywhere with a 3 gallon fuel tank in your trunk? that gives you a range of about 60 miles before having to stop and fill up.
So you have $125 for the tank (average price for a 5 gal at summit)... this tank is NOT street legal, btw..
then you have to pay another $150+ for a fuel pump- you're sure as hell not going to be able to use your factory pump.
$60 in tubing to connect your new tank to the lines on the old tank.
$35 in other accessories, fittings, wiring, etc to connect everything.

Then you have to deal with the old tank, having a filler tube in the trunk and getting gas dripped everywhere inside the trunk when you fill up every 60 miles.....

So there's $375, plus shipping, plus a TON of hassles for a ghetto rigged setup that you have to fill from inside the trunk.

all so you can save ~5 lb and have a straighter exhaust?

 

i put 2 gallons in now ,every time at pump.
And how much is a stock tank?
And also i get 30mpg +

 

So it's true that lighter weight = better gas mileage? What's your curb weight, as of now, 2750?

 

you can get a replacement OE gask tank from the junkyard for about $65. only in places like NY will you ever have to worry about a gas tank rusting through..

weight? They're very thin.. maybe weigh 15lb empty..

And your car might get close to 30mpg, but that still doesn't negate the fact you're stupid to put $4 in the tank every day so you can save the weight.. just go on a freaking diet or remove the stereo! much easier than spending $500 to cause yourself problems later!

 

He counts running around with no gas as weight reduction and he has never actually weighed his car so he doesn't know the curb weight. Sorry to steal the thunder.

The straighter exhaust is a rather invalid arguement. The exhaust must go through the beam on the pass side and therefore bend over just like a stock B-pipe. The ultimate exhaust is one that ends in front of the beam. I'm doing this. It weighs 20lbs less and reduces restriction.

Japmax, I'm contemplating pulling the heater stuff. It would be very easy and there is a ton of weight reduction. Looking at a minimum of 25lbs. And everything you ever did in the engine bay or under the dash would be that much simplifyied. Pulling the ECU would be a 2 minute job.
-Blower & housing(6 ?)
-Ducting(10+ ?)(Including ducting underneath carpet to rear.)
-Heater hose lines and coolant(6+ ?)
-Core itself(5+ ?)
-Control unit(5 ?)

Ah, I better stop writing all this down the more I think about it the more I want to do it. The only reason I haven't done it yet is as I explained in the previous post. It gets chilly at night here.

 

Ooh...side pipes...I like what you're thinking/doing Broaner.

 

Thanks Icy. Not exactly side pipes though. Singular and not exiting to the side. I'm coming right off the Y collector into a resonator. Three inches later go into a muffler and at the end of a muffler have a bent section(mandrel or crushed depending on budget) that aims the exhaust down to the ground. It'll be much lighter, much less restrictive and will probably shoot flames on throttle close. I'm going to adapt my current setup into this design but that is only 2.25". This is because my funds are low. I plan to make it into a 2.5" at least or 3" by the time boost rolls around.

Having the exhaust aimed at the ground will help reduce raspyness and make the tone deeper. Also, this positioning will allow the body to participate in the exhaust muffling.

 

once i put my trunk and bumpers on it should be 2580's lb range.
But with that milage it was prob 2740's lbs on the street.

 

I get 32+ mpg easily .

Also i drive 30-50miles a week ,so i put 2-3 galons in every 1-2 weeks.

I weighed my car last race season on the NHRA weigh in scales 2745lbs its prob 2640lbs now,2580's next month. in 06 im hoping for low 2400lbs and full interior

 

You still have stock drivers/passenger seats Chris?

 

Nice I was also thinking of doing this, BTW where exactly is the muffler going to be? not sure what you mean by "Three inches later go into a muffler"

The Heatercore I left behind because it's alot of work to get that stuff out the whole dash board + the steering column has to be repositioned.

 

yes i have stock seats acura seats will be going in this summer.

 

A friend of mine had a spare S2000 seat, damn nice, but not sure what it weighed.