Remove Rotor Splash Shields?
#1
Chassis Freak
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Remove Rotor Splash Shields?
I read somewhere that the ugly dust/splash shields behind the brake rotors are there to prevent fluid or oil splashing onto the brakes if the axle seals break. I don't know if that's true, but I can't think of any other purpose for these things, other than blocking brake dust (which they don't seem to do a good job of). I would like to remove them for aesthetic reasons but wanted to post here first to see if that's really a bad idea. In the unlikely event that an axle seal breaks, you'd still have three working brakes so I don't see a huge problem there. But then again, everything Nissan puts on has a purpose so I'm wondering.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
#2
I wouldn't take 'em off. I've had broken CV-boots and it gets ALL over the place. That stuff is definitely not something you want on your brakes. Think about it, brakes stop using friction, grease/oil reduces friction...not good. Just smooth off the rust some and paint 'em black and be done with it.
#4
Chassis Freak
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If you have stock rims they're hard to see, but with my 17s they're extremely visible from up close, and even from far away if the sun is shining on them:
Below: you can't see the front shields from this far back, but you can see the rear shields because the sun is on them
I'd like to hear some more feedback, but I'm leaning towards leaving the shields on. Mine are actually not rusty at all, which is surprising because every fugging thing else is. I just wish they didn't have the lip that curls over the top (which is the only visible part). I think it would be too much work to try to cut the lip off cleanly.
Below: you can't see the front shields from this far back, but you can see the rear shields because the sun is on them
I'd like to hear some more feedback, but I'm leaning towards leaving the shields on. Mine are actually not rusty at all, which is surprising because every fugging thing else is. I just wish they didn't have the lip that curls over the top (which is the only visible part). I think it would be too much work to try to cut the lip off cleanly.
#9
They are pressed onto the hub. You can cut them off with tin snips (takes a long time and makes your hand hurt, but it works) or you can cut them off with an air chisel (takes about 15 seconds, literally). Anyone with a big brake kit takes these off. I've had bad cv boots numerous times and had no trouble with grease getting on the rotors.
#10
Disregard then
I wouldnt go through all that crap. I'd sand them down in place and throw some high heat black paint in the mean time. They are not THAT noticable but its not worth all that work to take the hub off get them pressed out.
I wouldnt go through all that crap. I'd sand them down in place and throw some high heat black paint in the mean time. They are not THAT noticable but its not worth all that work to take the hub off get them pressed out.
#13
On some cars they are there to aid in cooling. This is definitely not the case on these cars. I can see that they may help in the emergency situation that the CV busts open. But as Tom mentioned, you'll still have three other fully functional brakes. Why keep that extra 10lbs on the car if they are only there for emergency situations? And its usually a rusty 10lbs.
I cut mine off with a grinder. It was rather difficult for me for two reasons. It was my first time ever dealing with brakes. I used a big @ss 6" grinder. With a smaller grinder or air chisel as Neal mentioned this would be a two hour job.
Some car **** for you pervs.
I cut mine off with a grinder. It was rather difficult for me for two reasons. It was my first time ever dealing with brakes. I used a big @ss 6" grinder. With a smaller grinder or air chisel as Neal mentioned this would be a two hour job.
Some car **** for you pervs.
#16
Originally Posted by slimer
i took the dremel to mine this past weekend. if your cv boot bursts or something, it is supposed to block it from getting on the rotor.
i used a dremel too, if you can get the extension thing for it makes it 100% easier, also the reinforced wheels are good too
#17
I haven't had mine on for about 4 years now.. never had a problem.
just take a screwdriver and some big pliers or tin snips and start chopping away at it. takes 5-10 min per side..
and Broaner.. they're not 10lb. they're about 1lb each. hardly anything worth worrying about.
just take a screwdriver and some big pliers or tin snips and start chopping away at it. takes 5-10 min per side..
and Broaner.. they're not 10lb. they're about 1lb each. hardly anything worth worrying about.
#20
D@mn. Sorry for over estimating a bit. 5lbs is still significant and worth it. The downsides of this are non-existent in my mind. JStutter, I don't understand you. You pull out all sound deadening material but don't want to cut these off?
#21
Broaner, I never said I didn't want to. I thought about removing them.... but havent yet since someone said it was a bad idea. Maybe some time. I dont understand you, and yo ricer lights, and yo pimpin stereo.
#22
Chassis Freak
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Has anyone who's removed the shields had any problems with brake dust getting everywhere? All over the wheel well, suspension, axles, lines? I have Porterfield R4-Ss and they're extremely dusty. The dust dosen't seem too sticky or corrosive, but then I do wash it off quite frequently. Still, right now I see no brake dust on the suspension or anything. It only gets on my wheels and I'd like it to stay that way.
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