Hhhheeeellllpppp........
#1
It is kinda hard to say but my car is stalling and its an auto. If i floor it, it wont go any higher then 2500 rpm. And when i am doing that it like choking and gasping for air. On my air/fuel meter it is running very rich at idle which it doesnt even do that when i start it up for the first time of the day. If i start touching the wires by the throttle body and make sure that everything is connected it sputters for a sec. And then when i go into drive the rpms will bounce and then shut off. PLEASE HELP ME.
THANKS
CHRIS
THANKS
CHRIS
#2
Originally posted by capmaxima99
It is kinda hard to say but my car is stalling and its an auto. If i floor it, it wont go any higher then 2500 rpm. And when i am doing that it like choking and gasping for air. On my air/fuel meter it is running very rich at idle which it doesnt even do that when i start it up for the first time of the day. If i start touching the wires by the throttle body and make sure that everything is connected it sputters for a sec. And then when i go into drive the rpms will bounce and then shut off. PLEASE HELP ME.
THANKS
CHRIS
It is kinda hard to say but my car is stalling and its an auto. If i floor it, it wont go any higher then 2500 rpm. And when i am doing that it like choking and gasping for air. On my air/fuel meter it is running very rich at idle which it doesnt even do that when i start it up for the first time of the day. If i start touching the wires by the throttle body and make sure that everything is connected it sputters for a sec. And then when i go into drive the rpms will bounce and then shut off. PLEASE HELP ME.
THANKS
CHRIS
#3
Sounds like you need an Air Flow Meter Sensor. I've had that problem and it's pretty expensive. I had a 90 Max and the dealer charged me about $500 for parts and labor. This is before I found this site, so you should definitely get things cheaper. Good Luck!!
#5
Good idea. I know that they charge up the A$$ but it's better to get it done right. Atleast if anything goes wrong you have someone to blame. Most likely you won't have a problem with Nissan they do a good job. If you have a Nissan dealer of your preference that's cool, but I know one that might do things cheaper. Let me know.
#8
Originally posted by capmaxima99
Well i would go to the dealer always just my opinion. Also my car is under warrenty still so its free.
Chris
Well i would go to the dealer always just my opinion. Also my car is under warrenty still so its free.
Chris
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
To me is sounds like your MAF Sensor is definantly not working properly, infact I am almost certain of it because when my MAF sensor died{a week or two ago} if I tampered with the it the car whould sputter and ocasionaly stall. In the future when you do not have a warranty stay the hell away from your Nissan dealers becuase there parts and labor are absurd! So when your warranty runs out go to
www.car-part.com , I just purchased a MAF sensor for $55 off of a 98 max and my car works 100%! Other then a damn rear main seal leak
![bawling](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/bawling.gif)
#9
I have been going to the dealer for 2 years now and my guy hasnt told me anything. He is coo with me and ****. He is the one that told me about the Y-pipe actually to get it. But really what does a intake and y-pipe and exhaust have to do with the car stalling.
Chris
Chris
#10
Originally posted by capmaxima99
I have been going to the dealer for 2 years now and my guy hasnt told me anything. He is coo with me and ****. He is the one that told me about the Y-pipe actually to get it. But really what does a intake and y-pipe and exhaust have to do with the car stalling.
Chris
I have been going to the dealer for 2 years now and my guy hasnt told me anything. He is coo with me and ****. He is the one that told me about the Y-pipe actually to get it. But really what does a intake and y-pipe and exhaust have to do with the car stalling.
Chris
#11
About a year ago my car just stalled and wouldnt start. So i had a flat bed from AAA come and get me. They had the car for 1 week and they changed the computer and the cam positioning sensor. Sumtin like that. But they spend about $1600 of there own money and **** and they didnt tell me anything about the intake or anything. Lets all hope all goes well tomorrow.
Chris
Chris
#12
Originally posted by capmaxima99
About a year ago my car just stalled and wouldnt start. So i had a flat bed from AAA come and get me. They had the car for 1 week and they changed the computer and the cam positioning sensor. Sumtin like that. But they spend about $1600 of there own money and **** and they didnt tell me anything about the intake or anything. Lets all hope all goes well tomorrow.
Chris
About a year ago my car just stalled and wouldnt start. So i had a flat bed from AAA come and get me. They had the car for 1 week and they changed the computer and the cam positioning sensor. Sumtin like that. But they spend about $1600 of there own money and **** and they didnt tell me anything about the intake or anything. Lets all hope all goes well tomorrow.
Chris
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#13
If you have a mechanic that will let you slide your in good hands. But your mods have alot to do with it. Make sure that you only deal with him. You are the first person that I know that does not have a stock car, under warranty, that Nissan will work on. Gook Luck again!!!!!!!! Let us know what happens.
#15
Ok well bad news, well at least for me and the ones that care out there. My service guy is not working today or tomorrow. He will be back on Monday. But I dont even know if I would be able to drive it over there. Its only about 5 miles from my house but I'll give the car a rest until Sunday probably. I also went ahead and put the stock intake back in. I thought that would help the car, but it does the same thing. Also for who had the MAF sensor replace how long did the dealer take for you. Is it just a hour work or what? Ill keep you guys posted on what happens. Thanks again for the help. And again if you have a opinion just let it out.
Chris
Chris
#16
Originally posted by capmaxima99
Ok well bad news, well at least for me and the ones that care out there. My service guy is not working today or tomorrow. He will be back on Monday. But I dont even know if I would be able to drive it over there. Its only about 5 miles from my house but I'll give the car a rest until Sunday probably. I also went ahead and put the stock intake back in. I thought that would help the car, but it does the same thing. Also for who had the MAF sensor replace how long did the dealer take for you. Is it just a hour work or what? Ill keep you guys posted on what happens. Thanks again for the help. And again if you have a opinion just let it out.
Chris
Ok well bad news, well at least for me and the ones that care out there. My service guy is not working today or tomorrow. He will be back on Monday. But I dont even know if I would be able to drive it over there. Its only about 5 miles from my house but I'll give the car a rest until Sunday probably. I also went ahead and put the stock intake back in. I thought that would help the car, but it does the same thing. Also for who had the MAF sensor replace how long did the dealer take for you. Is it just a hour work or what? Ill keep you guys posted on what happens. Thanks again for the help. And again if you have a opinion just let it out.
Chris
#17
It should only take about two hours. They have to reset the computer and other adjustments. I could probably get you the Air Flow Meter Sensor for list price(OE). But first get the car checked out to be 100%. You cannot return electrical items! Let us know.
#18
Well about the $500 or so bucks its all covered under the warrenty so its coo. Thanks for the info on that. Thats fine with me if they keep my car cause they will take it for a test drive and then mess up my front lip again so I can get it repainted for free. Thanks for the help again, and Ill keep you posted.
Chris
Chris
#19
The actual act of removing and replacing a MAF sensor will take about 5-10 minutes{For me anyways}. You guys with intakes should know, all you do is remove the four 10mm bolts, loosen a clamp and then pull/Twist and then reverse the procedure.
#21
Originally posted by capmaxima99
Oh yeah i know that but the thing is if they have it in stock or not. Thats all.
Chris
Oh yeah i know that but the thing is if they have it in stock or not. Thats all.
Chris
![EEK!](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
#22
Originally posted by capmaxima99
Oh yeah i know that but the thing is if they have it in stock or not. Thats all.
Chris
Oh yeah i know that but the thing is if they have it in stock or not. Thats all.
Chris
for you to drive the car, you need to cover the intake for a little bit. wrap a towel over the intake. the sensor is sending messages to the ECU that to much air is getting sucked. I had to deal with this a lot. And about people saying to change the MAF? a mechanic told me the same, i had other opinions. Try this and you will be suprised. your check engine light should have came on, so you need to reset it at the bottom by pulling that piece out near the drivers side pedals facing to the left. it has two plastic screws and use a flat to reset this. move it forward once slowly and then back . do this twice and it will reset the ecu light.
#23
Ok this experience I have is not on a maxima but I was told it is true of any car you mod. This car I had also has a maf sensor well I decided what the heck so I bought a adapter for the maf and a hi-flow filter. Bolted that baby right up after 6 months no problems then all the sudden the car was really slow acting funny so I took it to the shop. According to them the maf was getting false readings because of to much air flow. They could not explain why it took so long to happen but it happened. So I reset the ecu and viola no problems. The mechanics basic point was its not the best idea to mod cars with maf's sensors they are to tocuhy. Its best to mod the once that use I think its called vpc its like velocity something or other which is a sensor built in to the intake manifold. Tells the computer velocity, temp, that type of stuff. Oh yeah honda uses this method which might explain their modding. I just thought I would share this info with you.
EMAX95 do you think yours blew up because of the 3.48" pulley or because of so much man handling while installing your supercharger.
EMAX95 do you think yours blew up because of the 3.48" pulley or because of so much man handling while installing your supercharger.
#24
Originally posted by infinitiblast
Ok this experience I have is not on a maxima but I was told it is true of any car you mod. This car I had also has a maf sensor well I decided what the heck so I bought a adapter for the maf and a hi-flow filter. Bolted that baby right up after 6 months no problems then all the sudden the car was really slow acting funny so I took it to the shop. According to them the maf was getting false readings because of to much air flow. They could not explain why it took so long to happen but it happened. So I reset the ecu and viola no problems. The mechanics basic point was its not the best idea to mod cars with maf's sensors they are to tocuhy. Its best to mod the once that use I think its called vpc its like velocity something or other which is a sensor built in to the intake manifold. Tells the computer velocity, temp, that type of stuff. Oh yeah honda uses this method which might explain their modding. I just thought I would share this info with you.
EMAX95 do you think yours blew up because of the 3.48" pulley or because of so much man handling while installing your supercharger.
Ok this experience I have is not on a maxima but I was told it is true of any car you mod. This car I had also has a maf sensor well I decided what the heck so I bought a adapter for the maf and a hi-flow filter. Bolted that baby right up after 6 months no problems then all the sudden the car was really slow acting funny so I took it to the shop. According to them the maf was getting false readings because of to much air flow. They could not explain why it took so long to happen but it happened. So I reset the ecu and viola no problems. The mechanics basic point was its not the best idea to mod cars with maf's sensors they are to tocuhy. Its best to mod the once that use I think its called vpc its like velocity something or other which is a sensor built in to the intake manifold. Tells the computer velocity, temp, that type of stuff. Oh yeah honda uses this method which might explain their modding. I just thought I would share this info with you.
EMAX95 do you think yours blew up because of the 3.48" pulley or because of so much man handling while installing your supercharger.
#25
Originally posted by infinitiblast
Ok this experience I have is not on a maxima but I was told it is true of any car you mod. This car I had also has a maf sensor well I decided what the heck so I bought a adapter for the maf and a hi-flow filter. Bolted that baby right up after 6 months no problems then all the sudden the car was really slow acting funny so I took it to the shop. According to them the maf was getting false readings because of to much air flow. They could not explain why it took so long to happen but it happened. So I reset the ecu and viola no problems. The mechanics basic point was its not the best idea to mod cars with maf's sensors they are to tocuhy. Its best to mod the once that use I think its called vpc its like velocity something or other which is a sensor built in to the intake manifold. Tells the computer velocity, temp, that type of stuff. Oh yeah honda uses this method which might explain their modding. I just thought I would share this info with you.
EMAX95 do you think yours blew up because of the 3.48" pulley or because of so much man handling while installing your supercharger.
Ok this experience I have is not on a maxima but I was told it is true of any car you mod. This car I had also has a maf sensor well I decided what the heck so I bought a adapter for the maf and a hi-flow filter. Bolted that baby right up after 6 months no problems then all the sudden the car was really slow acting funny so I took it to the shop. According to them the maf was getting false readings because of to much air flow. They could not explain why it took so long to happen but it happened. So I reset the ecu and viola no problems. The mechanics basic point was its not the best idea to mod cars with maf's sensors they are to tocuhy. Its best to mod the once that use I think its called vpc its like velocity something or other which is a sensor built in to the intake manifold. Tells the computer velocity, temp, that type of stuff. Oh yeah honda uses this method which might explain their modding. I just thought I would share this info with you.
EMAX95 do you think yours blew up because of the 3.48" pulley or because of so much man handling while installing your supercharger.
I am going to have to go with man handaling because I removed and reinstalled the thing like 5 times.
#30
my 97 gxe 5sp experienced similar symptoms earlier this year. only a few hours after my highflow intake was installed, it started operating on "limp home" mode. after 2,500 rpms it would cut out. i had to drive back home at 40mph and it stalled twice. first i thought the cone intake had affected the MAS, which i never even touched during the install. the next day, the car ran fine. two days later it ran fine for 1/4 mi then it cut out and wouldn't start. anyway, to make a long story short, it ended up being a fuel pump/system failure traced back to the premium mobil gasoline our region used at the time. the pump had completely seized. mobil covered the $600 expense to have nissan do the repair. fortunately for my sake, it wasn't my fault. what exactly do you think happened? did your car just all of the sudden not want to run properly or did you touch something in the car?
#31
happened to me. i sucked in water though thru my cai.
my car wasnt under warranty, so i posted it up here at the forum. Daniel B said it was my MAF, the dealer wanted 550 plus labor. so i went to a nissan junk yard in the valley and picked up a used MAF for 100 bucks, installed it myself(took like 10 minutes). fixed the problem. i guess the water screwed up the sensor inside the MAF.
heres what my car was doing..
on/off on/off on/off
start to "Choke" wouldnt stay on.
rpms would drop and go back up and drop and turn off.
on the way home it "limped home"(it was ugly.....)
i would reset my ecu and it would fine till the computer remember the maf was screwed and the car would go into safe mode.....
my car wasnt under warranty, so i posted it up here at the forum. Daniel B said it was my MAF, the dealer wanted 550 plus labor. so i went to a nissan junk yard in the valley and picked up a used MAF for 100 bucks, installed it myself(took like 10 minutes). fixed the problem. i guess the water screwed up the sensor inside the MAF.
heres what my car was doing..
on/off on/off on/off
start to "Choke" wouldnt stay on.
rpms would drop and go back up and drop and turn off.
on the way home it "limped home"(it was ugly.....)
i would reset my ecu and it would fine till the computer remember the maf was screwed and the car would go into safe mode.....
#32
Originally posted by VQdriver
my 97 gxe 5sp experienced similar symptoms earlier this year. only a few hours after my highflow intake was installed, it started operating on "limp home" mode. after 2,500 rpms it would cut out. i had to drive back home at 40mph and it stalled twice. first i thought the cone intake had affected the MAS, which i never even touched during the install. the next day, the car ran fine. two days later it ran fine for 1/4 mi then it cut out and wouldn't start. anyway, to make a long story short, it ended up being a fuel pump/system failure traced back to the premium mobil gasoline our region used at the time. the pump had completely seized. mobil covered the $600 expense to have nissan do the repair. fortunately for my sake, it wasn't my fault. what exactly do you think happened? did your car just all of the sudden not want to run properly or did you touch something in the car?
my 97 gxe 5sp experienced similar symptoms earlier this year. only a few hours after my highflow intake was installed, it started operating on "limp home" mode. after 2,500 rpms it would cut out. i had to drive back home at 40mph and it stalled twice. first i thought the cone intake had affected the MAS, which i never even touched during the install. the next day, the car ran fine. two days later it ran fine for 1/4 mi then it cut out and wouldn't start. anyway, to make a long story short, it ended up being a fuel pump/system failure traced back to the premium mobil gasoline our region used at the time. the pump had completely seized. mobil covered the $600 expense to have nissan do the repair. fortunately for my sake, it wasn't my fault. what exactly do you think happened? did your car just all of the sudden not want to run properly or did you touch something in the car?
Chris
#33
Well to let all you guys know what was wrong here we go. First when they hooked up the computer to my car it read that the MAF was dead. So they ordered a new one. They got it a couple of days later and then they installed it and the same problem occured. So the next day he gave me a call and told me that when I got my system installed they zip tied some of the wires from the battery to the wires from the MAF sensor. And what it did was when they made it tight it ripped the rubber off of the wire and therefore making it an "exposed". So they just got a new wire and thats it. End of Problem. Thanks for all the info and help also.
Chris
Chris
#34
Originally posted by capmaxima99
Well to let all you guys know what was wrong here we go. First when they hooked up the computer to my car it read that the MAF was dead. So they ordered a new one. They got it a couple of days later and then they installed it and the same problem occured. So the next day he gave me a call and told me that when I got my system installed they zip tied some of the wires from the battery to the wires from the MAF sensor. And what it did was when they made it tight it ripped the rubber off of the wire and therefore making it an "exposed". So they just got a new wire and thats it. End of Problem. Thanks for all the info and help also.
Chris
Well to let all you guys know what was wrong here we go. First when they hooked up the computer to my car it read that the MAF was dead. So they ordered a new one. They got it a couple of days later and then they installed it and the same problem occured. So the next day he gave me a call and told me that when I got my system installed they zip tied some of the wires from the battery to the wires from the MAF sensor. And what it did was when they made it tight it ripped the rubber off of the wire and therefore making it an "exposed". So they just got a new wire and thats it. End of Problem. Thanks for all the info and help also.
Chris