Got a wheel alignment for my 97 SE yesterday at NTB. The front-right camber was reading –1.3, which is out of the specified range of -1.0 to 0.5. The rear-left toe was reading 0.31, specified range is –0.13 to 0.22. Everything else was with specs. From what they told me, Nissan does not specify front camber and caster adjustments, and rear camber and toe adjustments. Therefore, the adjustments to my front-right camber and rear-left toe could not be made at their facility. Keep in mind, I have Eibach/Tokico suspension and 17” wheels. Took my car to a dealer, and got no answers. The service guy didn’t have a clue and wanted $69 for an hour to look into the problem and additional $79 if the car needed to be placed on the rack for further inspection!!

Anyone knows if the camber/caster kit will be needed? Is the kit for both the front and rear, or just the front? Can the rear toe be adjusted?

 

The only thing adjustable on 4th gen Maximas is front toe. Camber adjustments can be made if you purchase aftermarket "camber bolts" from Ingalls Suspension (manufactures the bolt).

Caster cannot be adjusted on 4th gens.

When lowering your car, alignment problems is something you have to accept as "normal." In the Maxima's case, it's worse since the alignment is almost nonadjustable.

 

Eric is right about living with the car out of alignment. I've had my car aligned about 4 times since having it lowered and putting in the Koni's. The car still pulls to the right, it's not just a slight road pull, but worse. The technician told me it's a tire pull...but I'm more than positive it was because of the suspension mods. Just have to adjust your driving habits and live with it.

 

But does your wheel vibrate? That should stop at least.

 

Add 2 psi to the right front and rear tires over the left tires and it will help. I know it is not a conventional solution but it worked for me.

 

BrigBoy: Funny that you have asked...my car does vibrate at about 60-70 mph. Wheels are balanced over and over, but the vibration doesn't stop. Can't be the tires b/c these are the second set of tires and the car still shakes. Maybe it the rims, but they don't look bent. Get new wheels soon so we will see if it was the rims.

Have anyone used the Eibach alignment kit to adjust their front camber? Is it worth the $25 bucks?

 

There is a shop in San Diego that fixes most alignment problems. I had a caster that wasn't in spec and they have a machine that pushes the caster back to its proper spec. These guys are GOOD. I had been to tons of different alignment places and was never happy but this dude totally fixed the alignment problem.

Recently, everything was in spec but he said my alignment subsystem was a little out of alignment so he unbolted the subsystem, put it exactly straight and bolted it all back together. My car tracks PERFECTLY. These type of shops do truck alignments, RVs, and lowered cars. If anyone in San Diego wants the perfect alignment go to

True Line.

Website: www.truelinewheel.com

 

Sidenote about the vibration - both tires and wheels can be slightly out of shape. Just balancing the tire on the rim may not do it. Newest machines actually put a load on the tire as it's spinning and find the low spots on both. Then they match the high spot of the rim against the low spot on the tire to neutralize.

 

Would like to know more about this process, becasue I thought camber/caster specs was set within the chassis parts. And if they are bending/pushing how reliable is that. Are you sure they didn't install one of those camber bolts. Doesn't Stillen sells camber plates for you guys, or is it only for the coil-o (I could be wrong) I can speak from experience a bad alignment can cause wheel shimmy. After I design/created my own original camber plates and installed them the wheel stop shaking and there was absolutely no pulling which was there before the plate was installed. I too thought the pulling was due to radial pull of the tires. Some alignment shop will not do the work if you have altered the susp, unless they specialize in such susp. If you have exhausted all your options and have to deal with the pulling you can make your tires last longer with the "proper" tire rotation. Not just rotate front to rear, but dismount and turn your tires inside-out in order to put the tires on the opposite side. This might get expensive, so you make the choice. Imagine the fun you guys can have if the 4th gen upper strut mounts are the same are the 3rd gens. Check my webpage for custom camber plate pics

 

I have eibachs, don't waste your money on the adjusment kit. Get the wheels checked, narrow down that, and then you can most likely say your still not aligned near specs if the wheel still vibrates around 60- 65mph and up.

I dunno, let us know. Start with easy stuff, like makin sure your lugs are tight.

 

On many cars, the caster or alignment related part becomes a little out of spec. These guys just push it back into spec. It doesn't take a lot of movement for a car to get misaligned. The slightest degree in camber, caster or whatever can have very noticeable effects on the highway.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by CandiMan
[B]

Doesn't Stillen sells camber plates for you guys, or is it only for the coil-o (I could be wrong)

I've got the Stillen camber plates on my 4th gen along with Koni's. They work with any spring/strut - not just coilovers.