I have a 95SE that has original brakes after 60k and the brake fluid is low! There are no leaks or any signs of brake problems...I think it might have evaporated a bit over 5 years?? Anyway...what type of fluid do I need to buy? DOT3???

Thanks,
SHUMAX

 

the more fluid that goes down into the calipers to make the brakes work. The fluid now takes up the empty space in the calipers that hold the pads to the rotors. And yes it is dot 3. Once new pads are put on, and if you compress the pistons on the Calipers, you will see the fluid rise back to factory level. If you are going to get your brakes done real soon, don't worry about the fluid right now, unless it is turning on your brake light. Since you have 60,000 miles, you may want to change all the fluid in the brakes anyway! Up to you bro.

 

you've never had the brake fluid changed??? it's supposed to be changed yearly (i do mine much more often b/c the way i drive).... if you plan to autox or take it to a road course in the next year, then bleed the brakes and replace w/ a dot 4 (castrol LMA; Valvoline synthetic something or other; motul 600 (much more expensive) and the like)

Robert

 

whatever u do, DO NOT GET DOT 5, the chemical base compund in dot 5 will eat your rubber seals like lunch.

the valvoine synthetic silver bottle (dot 3/4) is fine for normal driving.

motoul 600 is best for the track for it's got a higher boiling temp..

 

You change the fluid every year? I was told this doesn't need to be done but every 30k by the Nnissan dealer. But he is the same guy who told me to go 15k b/t tire rotation...a$$hole!
Anyway...what will brakes cost me? I am talking the entire job..all new rotors, pads, fluid...for ALL 4 wheels? Any advantage to going aftermarket? Sloted rotors, or performance pads? If so, what is the price differance and how long will they last? I am parting with the car in about 2 years so keep that in mind. Thanks for the help/advise...you guys are worth your weight in gold...well maybe not that much, huh?

SHUMAX

 

A good indication on when to change your brake fluid is around 30,000 or when it starts to not be transparent anymore. Hell most people never change it in the life of the car, but then agian that's why their brakes feel mushy.

Powersloted rotors will run you $75 a piece for the fronts and about $45 to 65 for the rears. Porterfield pads make me happy and run about $85 for the front and $65 for the rear. Castrol's dot 4 is pretty good fluid, and handles more heat than dot 3. You will basicly feel less fade from slotted, and better bite from crossdrilled. But either one of these will easily warp if you get on it to much, just like the factory ones. Two small diameter for a 3300lb car. Remember they are better, but people then think they can use the brakes that much harder and warp them right away. They just give you a little better piece of mind for when you actually have to make an emergency stop. The factory prices on rotors and pads is about the same, just a little cheaper. If you go to Pep Boys it will be about 1/3 cheaper overall, just don't buy those lifetime pads, they suck big *****. If you got 60,000 I recommend you change the brake lines, factory replacements will run about $35 for all four. Steel braided are much better but will run you $80 to $140 depending on how much you search for them. You can get all new ones for as little as $60.00 from Goodrich, but they will not come with the little crimps that hold it to the factory brackets, and you will have to measure them yourself, and find a shop that sells them, the universal ones!

 

Here's what i did.

Custom SS lines from SMC products, it'll run $145.00
Porterfield R4S Street Pads (really good) for $118.00 off the socal maxima Group Deal, which is now PERMANANT, if you mention maxima club...
if you race on the track, then i'd suggest u get ur rotors heat treated, you don't really need slotted rotors unless you do heavy braking on the track.. the stock rotors are just fine.... with SS lines and the porterfields, you'll stop just as fast as u would with slotted rotors...

X dilled are a joke, they just look nice, but in reality, they reduce the structural integrity of the rotors and might add to stress fractures later on...

the good ridge lines they sell at $tealin' are decent.. but SMC makes DAMN good lines, and are clear coated (or color coated, ur choice).. Steve, the owner, is really really nice guy, and he'll make em just right.

good luck..

 

got my ss lines from sgp after maxus last year for $100
i ran some of the porterfield r4s up front, dust like hell but great pads.

stock in the rear

stock rotors are just rine

fluid i've tried the best, average, and nissan...for autox average (valvoline syntec (dot3/4), castrol srf are fine) for some track use also, i recommend ATE or motul 600. nissan fluid is ok if you never see the track.

Robert

 

Supposedly Ford brake fluid is excellent as well, supposed to be a cheaper alternative to Motul...