Great discovery! Solved most my headlight dimming problem
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,530
Great discovery! Solved most my headlight dimming problem
Alright this is for the audio guru's out here who are running high powered audio systems that have enough power to dim the headlights and noticeably dip down the RPMs at idle. My stereo can pull the engine down to almost 400 RPM sometimes if I have it cranking. Im not going to disclose what I have in my car aside from 2 15" woofers and greater then average power going into each of them and my speakers. I do have an Optima Yellow top deep cycler with everything else stock. my alternator is the 120 Amp model so it does a good job powering and recharging my components.
Anyway yesterday since it was really nice outside and I was bored, was I decided to see what happens if I double grounded the battery. More specifically I utilized the side terminals of the Optima yellow. I went down to Pep Boys and for $4.69 bought a 24" 4 gauge side terminal battery cable. This cable has a 3/8" hole on the grounding side and also another 16 gauge pigtail near the terminal. I remember how I did a battery relocation on my old 90 Camry before and where I had to reground. I utilized the throughbolt of the transmission mount on the body because it was the beefiest bolt on the body near by and it was relatively clean. I had to dremel out the 3/8" hole a tad for it to fit thru the bolt but then I just tightened that sucker down. I routed the cable between the silencer box and then to the front of the battery and used new side terminal clamps to attach the wire. As for that 16 gauge pigtail, remembering how a Toyota was grounded, I grounded that to an existing ground point that was on the fender.
Upon using my stereo I noticed it had solved one of my other problems. When my battery is 1/2 discharged and it is recharging the woofers would emit an alternator whine until the battery is charged. I had my stereo going for several hours while I was doing the work so it definately did not have a full charge. There was no alternator whine. Upon using the stereo, I turned the sucker full blast and it felt like it slammed harder then it ever did before. It was LOUD! It was nighttime by now so I turned on the headlights, the high powered corner lights, and the foglights and then blasted the stereo again. There was MINIMAL light dimming. Nothing like it was before. This means that the extra ground cable was definately doing its job, allowing more current to flow. I'm still amazed.
I havent done any subjective tests, but I honestly also feel that the headlights are brighter. Its possible since theres less resistance and more paths to take between point A and point B for the electrons to flow through. So if you want to beef up your electrical system, I suggest double grounding your battery.
Anyway yesterday since it was really nice outside and I was bored, was I decided to see what happens if I double grounded the battery. More specifically I utilized the side terminals of the Optima yellow. I went down to Pep Boys and for $4.69 bought a 24" 4 gauge side terminal battery cable. This cable has a 3/8" hole on the grounding side and also another 16 gauge pigtail near the terminal. I remember how I did a battery relocation on my old 90 Camry before and where I had to reground. I utilized the throughbolt of the transmission mount on the body because it was the beefiest bolt on the body near by and it was relatively clean. I had to dremel out the 3/8" hole a tad for it to fit thru the bolt but then I just tightened that sucker down. I routed the cable between the silencer box and then to the front of the battery and used new side terminal clamps to attach the wire. As for that 16 gauge pigtail, remembering how a Toyota was grounded, I grounded that to an existing ground point that was on the fender.
Upon using my stereo I noticed it had solved one of my other problems. When my battery is 1/2 discharged and it is recharging the woofers would emit an alternator whine until the battery is charged. I had my stereo going for several hours while I was doing the work so it definately did not have a full charge. There was no alternator whine. Upon using the stereo, I turned the sucker full blast and it felt like it slammed harder then it ever did before. It was LOUD! It was nighttime by now so I turned on the headlights, the high powered corner lights, and the foglights and then blasted the stereo again. There was MINIMAL light dimming. Nothing like it was before. This means that the extra ground cable was definately doing its job, allowing more current to flow. I'm still amazed.
I havent done any subjective tests, but I honestly also feel that the headlights are brighter. Its possible since theres less resistance and more paths to take between point A and point B for the electrons to flow through. So if you want to beef up your electrical system, I suggest double grounding your battery.
Re: Great discovery! Solved most my headlight dimming problem
Originally posted by ericdwong
Alright this is for the audio guru's out here who are running high powered audio systems that have enough power to dim the headlights and noticeably dip down the RPMs at idle. My stereo can pull the engine down to almost 400 RPM sometimes if I have it cranking. Im not going to disclose what I have in my car aside from 2 15" woofers and greater then average power going into each of them and my speakers. I do have an Optima Yellow top deep cycler with everything else stock. my alternator is the 120 Amp model so it does a good job powering and recharging my components.
Anyway yesterday since it was really nice outside and I was bored, was I decided to see what happens if I double grounded the battery. More specifically I utilized the side terminals of the Optima yellow. I went down to Pep Boys and for $4.69 bought a 24" 4 gauge side terminal battery cable. This cable has a 3/8" hole on the grounding side and also another 16 gauge pigtail near the terminal. I remember how I did a battery relocation on my old 90 Camry before and where I had to reground. I utilized the throughbolt of the transmission mount on the body because it was the beefiest bolt on the body near by and it was relatively clean. I had to dremel out the 3/8" hole a tad for it to fit thru the bolt but then I just tightened that sucker down. I routed the cable between the silencer box and then to the front of the battery and used new side terminal clamps to attach the wire. As for that 16 gauge pigtail, remembering how a Toyota was grounded, I grounded that to an existing ground point that was on the fender.
Upon using my stereo I noticed it had solved one of my other problems. When my battery is 1/2 discharged and it is recharging the woofers would emit an alternator whine until the battery is charged. I had my stereo going for several hours while I was doing the work so it definately did not have a full charge. There was no alternator whine. Upon using the stereo, I turned the sucker full blast and it felt like it slammed harder then it ever did before. It was LOUD! It was nighttime by now so I turned on the headlights, the high powered corner lights, and the foglights and then blasted the stereo again. There was MINIMAL light dimming. Nothing like it was before. This means that the extra ground cable was definately doing its job, allowing more current to flow. I'm still amazed.
I havent done any subjective tests, but I honestly also feel that the headlights are brighter. Its possible since theres less resistance and more paths to take between point A and point B for the electrons to flow through. So if you want to beef up your electrical system, I suggest double grounding your battery.
Alright this is for the audio guru's out here who are running high powered audio systems that have enough power to dim the headlights and noticeably dip down the RPMs at idle. My stereo can pull the engine down to almost 400 RPM sometimes if I have it cranking. Im not going to disclose what I have in my car aside from 2 15" woofers and greater then average power going into each of them and my speakers. I do have an Optima Yellow top deep cycler with everything else stock. my alternator is the 120 Amp model so it does a good job powering and recharging my components.
Anyway yesterday since it was really nice outside and I was bored, was I decided to see what happens if I double grounded the battery. More specifically I utilized the side terminals of the Optima yellow. I went down to Pep Boys and for $4.69 bought a 24" 4 gauge side terminal battery cable. This cable has a 3/8" hole on the grounding side and also another 16 gauge pigtail near the terminal. I remember how I did a battery relocation on my old 90 Camry before and where I had to reground. I utilized the throughbolt of the transmission mount on the body because it was the beefiest bolt on the body near by and it was relatively clean. I had to dremel out the 3/8" hole a tad for it to fit thru the bolt but then I just tightened that sucker down. I routed the cable between the silencer box and then to the front of the battery and used new side terminal clamps to attach the wire. As for that 16 gauge pigtail, remembering how a Toyota was grounded, I grounded that to an existing ground point that was on the fender.
Upon using my stereo I noticed it had solved one of my other problems. When my battery is 1/2 discharged and it is recharging the woofers would emit an alternator whine until the battery is charged. I had my stereo going for several hours while I was doing the work so it definately did not have a full charge. There was no alternator whine. Upon using the stereo, I turned the sucker full blast and it felt like it slammed harder then it ever did before. It was LOUD! It was nighttime by now so I turned on the headlights, the high powered corner lights, and the foglights and then blasted the stereo again. There was MINIMAL light dimming. Nothing like it was before. This means that the extra ground cable was definately doing its job, allowing more current to flow. I'm still amazed.
I havent done any subjective tests, but I honestly also feel that the headlights are brighter. Its possible since theres less resistance and more paths to take between point A and point B for the electrons to flow through. So if you want to beef up your electrical system, I suggest double grounding your battery.
I have an Interstate battery,100A alterator and a 300wRMS Memphis amp on one 10" Memhis sub I have a 1/2 farad capacitor and 8 guage from the battery and my lights dim....thank you............
Re: Re: Great discovery! Solved most my headlight dimming problem
Originally posted by metallic97gxe
cool post I will definately try this method because I have the same problem
I have an Interstate battery,100A alterator and a 300wRMS Memphis amp on one 10" Memhis sub I have a 1/2 farad capacitor and 8 guage from the battery and my lights dim....thank you............
cool post I will definately try this method because I have the same problem
I have an Interstate battery,100A alterator and a 300wRMS Memphis amp on one 10" Memhis sub I have a 1/2 farad capacitor and 8 guage from the battery and my lights dim....thank you............
And definitely step up to 4ga wire.
Re: Re: Re: Great discovery! Solved most my headlight dimming problem
Originally posted by mzmtg
If you have a 100A alternator, you have less than stock. OEM is something like 130A.
And definitely step up to 4ga wire.
If you have a 100A alternator, you have less than stock. OEM is something like 130A.
And definitely step up to 4ga wire.
maybe go up from the 100A I have now to 130A?
I know I don't need a big competition 270A....
Thank You
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 5,808
the stock ground wire on the 4th gen is 4gauge wire. I did the same a while ago when i had the system in and used zero-gauge ground wire and grounded it to the stock ground location, using a yellow top and x2 1farad caps.
But if anything my dimming got worse but the bass did feel stronger though. Well now that i have no more system it really dont matter to me anymore but,
Im glad it worked for you man!
But if anything my dimming got worse but the bass did feel stronger though. Well now that i have no more system it really dont matter to me anymore but,
Im glad it worked for you man!
Originally posted by dwapenyi
For someone who "never wants to own a Nissan again", you're doing some damn interesting projects on your car. This double grounding thing is a very cool idea
DW
For someone who "never wants to own a Nissan again", you're doing some damn interesting projects on your car. This double grounding thing is a very cool idea
DW
I think deep down, he wants to forever own this Nissan.
never buy a nissan again? bah. what the h3ll is that? I will never buy a honda or toyota again, nor will I let my parents, friends, etc.
I swear by nissan, and now that theyre making almost every model in america, you can almost call it an american car.
I think that people who own hondas or toyotas are insane, i cant comprehend it, then again, im Nissan Driven.
I just love my Engine, i have a 1990 toyota pickup with the 22re, hate it, pos. my mom has a 98' subaru outback. That engine just cant take the stress. the maxima is proven. i dont know, everyone will say that im bias, blah blah blah. well to them, I dont care, its your money, I know what I trust. anyway, sorry, i guess i was just getting mad at how all the rich kids at my school think that theyre hondas and lexus are so much better than my max. someone wrote "POS Rice" on a friends Max, stupid kids, its funny ****. anyway, I guess it all comes down to the line, and who gets there first, and who keeps running.
MrGone
I swear by nissan, and now that theyre making almost every model in america, you can almost call it an american car.
I think that people who own hondas or toyotas are insane, i cant comprehend it, then again, im Nissan Driven.
I just love my Engine, i have a 1990 toyota pickup with the 22re, hate it, pos. my mom has a 98' subaru outback. That engine just cant take the stress. the maxima is proven. i dont know, everyone will say that im bias, blah blah blah. well to them, I dont care, its your money, I know what I trust. anyway, sorry, i guess i was just getting mad at how all the rich kids at my school think that theyre hondas and lexus are so much better than my max. someone wrote "POS Rice" on a friends Max, stupid kids, its funny ****. anyway, I guess it all comes down to the line, and who gets there first, and who keeps running.
MrGone
It works like this...if you have 4ga positive..you also need 4ga ground...ATLEAST...so then your 4ga amp wire..is sucking the hell outta your battery...your ground needs the same freedom...id suggest a 2ga ground or even 0 just to eliminate that bottleneck. Just upgrading your ground can yeild a few more Db's
Heh...interesting idea. I haven't really even noticed the stock ground on the Max. I know in my old Acura, the stock ground was shoddy and exposed by the time I got the car. In that, just replacing the stock ground was enough.
I've been debating installing my stereo lately. I have one amp pulling 500W rms...you audiophiles out there recommend 4gu for power wire/amp ground, and do you think I should have to do anything about the ground up front?
Heh...man, every thread on this board ends up anti-Honda or anti-anyoneelsebutNissan. I mean, sure there's good arguments/conversations to have over the topic, but blatant rants like that (esp from someone who makes edgy racing quotes that drives an automatic) are sometimes out of place.
I've been debating installing my stereo lately. I have one amp pulling 500W rms...you audiophiles out there recommend 4gu for power wire/amp ground, and do you think I should have to do anything about the ground up front?
what the h3ll is that? I will never buy a honda or toyota again....I just love my Engine
Re: Re: Re: Great discovery! Solved most my headlight dimming problem
OEM standard is 100A. Maxima SEs, b/c of standard fogs I guess, have 110A Alternators.
DW
DW
Originally posted by mzmtg
If you have a 100A alternator, you have less than stock. OEM is something like 130A.
And definitely step up to 4ga wire.
If you have a 100A alternator, you have less than stock. OEM is something like 130A.
And definitely step up to 4ga wire.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,075
Re: Great discovery! Solved most my headlight dimming problem
Great! Now come do mine!
Originally posted by ericdwong
Alright this is for the audio guru's out here who are running high powered audio systems that have enough power to dim the headlights and noticeably dip down the RPMs at idle. My stereo can pull the engine down to almost 400 RPM sometimes if I have it cranking. Im not going to disclose what I have in my car aside from 2 15" woofers and greater then average power going into each of them and my speakers. I do have an Optima Yellow top deep cycler with everything else stock. my alternator is the 120 Amp model so it does a good job powering and recharging my components.
Anyway yesterday since it was really nice outside and I was bored, was I decided to see what happens if I double grounded the battery. More specifically I utilized the side terminals of the Optima yellow. I went down to Pep Boys and for $4.69 bought a 24" 4 gauge side terminal battery cable. This cable has a 3/8" hole on the grounding side and also another 16 gauge pigtail near the terminal. I remember how I did a battery relocation on my old 90 Camry before and where I had to reground. I utilized the throughbolt of the transmission mount on the body because it was the beefiest bolt on the body near by and it was relatively clean. I had to dremel out the 3/8" hole a tad for it to fit thru the bolt but then I just tightened that sucker down. I routed the cable between the silencer box and then to the front of the battery and used new side terminal clamps to attach the wire. As for that 16 gauge pigtail, remembering how a Toyota was grounded, I grounded that to an existing ground point that was on the fender.
Upon using my stereo I noticed it had solved one of my other problems. When my battery is 1/2 discharged and it is recharging the woofers would emit an alternator whine until the battery is charged. I had my stereo going for several hours while I was doing the work so it definately did not have a full charge. There was no alternator whine. Upon using the stereo, I turned the sucker full blast and it felt like it slammed harder then it ever did before. It was LOUD! It was nighttime by now so I turned on the headlights, the high powered corner lights, and the foglights and then blasted the stereo again. There was MINIMAL light dimming. Nothing like it was before. This means that the extra ground cable was definately doing its job, allowing more current to flow. I'm still amazed.
I havent done any subjective tests, but I honestly also feel that the headlights are brighter. Its possible since theres less resistance and more paths to take between point A and point B for the electrons to flow through. So if you want to beef up your electrical system, I suggest double grounding your battery.
Alright this is for the audio guru's out here who are running high powered audio systems that have enough power to dim the headlights and noticeably dip down the RPMs at idle. My stereo can pull the engine down to almost 400 RPM sometimes if I have it cranking. Im not going to disclose what I have in my car aside from 2 15" woofers and greater then average power going into each of them and my speakers. I do have an Optima Yellow top deep cycler with everything else stock. my alternator is the 120 Amp model so it does a good job powering and recharging my components.
Anyway yesterday since it was really nice outside and I was bored, was I decided to see what happens if I double grounded the battery. More specifically I utilized the side terminals of the Optima yellow. I went down to Pep Boys and for $4.69 bought a 24" 4 gauge side terminal battery cable. This cable has a 3/8" hole on the grounding side and also another 16 gauge pigtail near the terminal. I remember how I did a battery relocation on my old 90 Camry before and where I had to reground. I utilized the throughbolt of the transmission mount on the body because it was the beefiest bolt on the body near by and it was relatively clean. I had to dremel out the 3/8" hole a tad for it to fit thru the bolt but then I just tightened that sucker down. I routed the cable between the silencer box and then to the front of the battery and used new side terminal clamps to attach the wire. As for that 16 gauge pigtail, remembering how a Toyota was grounded, I grounded that to an existing ground point that was on the fender.
Upon using my stereo I noticed it had solved one of my other problems. When my battery is 1/2 discharged and it is recharging the woofers would emit an alternator whine until the battery is charged. I had my stereo going for several hours while I was doing the work so it definately did not have a full charge. There was no alternator whine. Upon using the stereo, I turned the sucker full blast and it felt like it slammed harder then it ever did before. It was LOUD! It was nighttime by now so I turned on the headlights, the high powered corner lights, and the foglights and then blasted the stereo again. There was MINIMAL light dimming. Nothing like it was before. This means that the extra ground cable was definately doing its job, allowing more current to flow. I'm still amazed.
I havent done any subjective tests, but I honestly also feel that the headlights are brighter. Its possible since theres less resistance and more paths to take between point A and point B for the electrons to flow through. So if you want to beef up your electrical system, I suggest double grounding your battery.
Donating Maxima.org Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 500
From: Boise, ID
I'm seeing more and more people increasing the "grounding" of their vehicles with good results. The guys over at i-club swear that running extra grounding on their WRX's is the cure for hesitiation and rough running of the engine.
Originally posted by blizz20oma
I've been debating installing my stereo lately. I have one amp pulling 500W rms...you audiophiles out there recommend 4gu for power wire/amp ground, and do you think I should have to do anything about the ground up front?
I've been debating installing my stereo lately. I have one amp pulling 500W rms...you audiophiles out there recommend 4gu for power wire/amp ground, and do you think I should have to do anything about the ground up front?
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