Tomorrow we will be installing several sets on 3rd and 4th Gen. cars. Matt93SE will be speeding over from Tulsa to hook up with Dallas at our friends shop. We won't be doing the install at our shop, because we don't have a drive on hoist.
Introductory/1st anniversary price will be $125!!! This is for the first stage. It will be a weld on application only. Later we will play around with the idea of bolting on a set. ALL the people who are in the know that we have found, recommend welding. A set takes about 30-40 min to install.
The next stage==cross bracing has been worked out. All of our SFC will come with a set of brackets already welded in position, ready to bolt on the next stage. This will make it easy to up grade. No prices yet on this, but it will be reasonable as we aren't talking about a lot of tubing.
BTW if any one has a 2nd Gen. car, yes 2nd Gen. Maxima and is interested, we will be offering them as well. 5th Gen. is in works, and will be out soon as well.
These will not be painted or powder coated at this point. PC is an option, it will increase cost about $25-35.Let us know what you think on this. Once you have them, just prime/paint the long tube and finish painting the gussets after welding.
A lot of Maxima owners have expressed interest. First ordered, first received We will ship first ones out next Wed. Shipping will be under $20 to any where in the 48 states. Call for pricing. Remember we only charge what it really costs for shipping, we don't make a cent on it by over charging.

http://warpspeedperformance.com/subframe.htm

WarpSpeedPerformance.com 1-866-801-938


Dan and Dallas WSP

 

Hey Dan, how long will the intro. price be good? I'd love to buy a set, but January looks better for me.



Gotta love new Max mods!

 

Prices good for at least a month. Christmas is a tough time to buy extra toys for yourself. I still don't have my set on yet. Can't wait, after riding in Donald Montzs car.

Dan WSP

 

That sounds like a great price. I only have one issue, how much does this unit weigh?

 

I don't have the exact weight, Dallas said under 25 lbs, maybe a little under. They are strong, thick tubes about 5 ft long.

Dan WSP

 

Man you guys are dedicated, even making 2nd gen connectors! (I have a 3rd gen, btw)

I really admire the option to upgrade to Stage 2 later by adding on to the 1st stage - it's one of those neat modular ideas.

Is that 30-40 minutes just welding time? I just assumed you hold them in place and just weld like the wind.... or is there more to it than that?

 

WSP: just curious, can your SFC do this to our maximas?

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...b.jpg.orig.jpg

this mustang convertible has subframe connectors installed and it was jacked at the end of the subframe connector itself. the SFC stiffened the convertible body so much it was able to lift the front wheel on the same side off the ground!

 

I have no idea about them being that stiff.The Mustang is a rear wheel drive car, so there is a big difference. You be the one to try it and let us know! We are working on the install instructions. It's not at all difficult, but you have to be carewful not to start your floor on fire, thats why you only weld a small spot and move to the next gusset, to allow sufucient cooling. The photos on the above link show the prep that will be needed, a wire brush to remove small apots of undercoating. We think any competent welder at a garage can weld them right up.

Dan WSP

 

The Mustang suframes were about $375 and are a ladder shaped design, 4 longitudinal stiffeners with 8 latitudinal stiffeners.

Both our stage 1 and 2 designs for the Maxima will allow the stock jacking points to be utilized.

We use a modular bolt-on design for the stage 2 for ease of installation and shipping, the X brace will have 6 attachment points to the stage 1. We suspect not everyone may want the X brace but for those that do it makes for a clean install with no paint or powdercoat damage and minimal clearance loss with maximum reinforcement.

I always try to consider the hassle factor and cost when designing. To me, it is more of a hassle to gut the interior and add internal and external stiffners just to utilize fasteners than spend 45 minutes in a muffler shop getting them welded on. They can easily be removed with an angle grinder.

We will even post a review from the owner of the muffler shop as to what he thinks of the look of product, ease of installation, fitment and how much time he took and his opinion on how easily others might install it.

I really prefer using the exhaust shops because most have a 4 post lift and most are used to welding overhead and out of position every day and most only charge $40-50 per hour.

We do have access to a Gen 2 Maxima also so we figured why not make them available.

Dallas
WarpSpeed Performance

 

those mustang subframes are around $145.

http://personal.riverusers.com/~mira.../subframes.htm

the design looks similar to your subframe connectors (based on the pics that are available on your website).

i've been reading the past posts on individuals having custom ones made and posts from you guys announcing the availability for our cars. i am glad you guys are on the forefront in mass producing them for our maximas.

btw, i for one, am VERY interested in the x brace. my friend installed one for his E36 325i and it was noticeable on that already quite rigid chassis.

 

I CALL THE FIRST 5TH GEN SET.

 

just curious.. whats a good estimate on what it costs to have this installed? being that most of us are not iron workers..lol.. also.. and i know this is merely a matter of opinion but i would like to have yours... my 95 has a stillen fstb, addco rsb, h&r's, kyb's, and 18x8.5 rims.. the car rides really tight, handles great, but is really rough on the bumps. its begening to get REALLY annoying actually. seeing that i live in the city, theres only so much i can do to aviod potholes. would these connectors be improving my driver comfort at all ? or will they make the car ride even harder on the bumps? im pondering if i should try these but dont want to buy them, pay for them to be installed, and then not even wanna drive my car afterwards cause it rides so stiff its horrible. know what i mean? on a stock car with these bars would it be a similar ride as if it had all the other control bars like i do? or is it a different kind of ride? i want my car to handle good, but still be comfortable to drive.. what do u suggest i do?

 

What does this mean:

The car has positive camber and if lifted on a 2 post you may add additional camber and your doors may no longer close.


Also, I have a 4th Gen. So it would be $125+$20+$35=$170 for shipped and PC?

Erik

 

Well, (I believe) positive camber on the wheels is when the tops of the wheels is angled outwards like this: \car/ rather than this: /car\ which is negative camber. So if you extend this to the car's body, it means the car's body is bowed like a rainbow slightly. Lifting up the body on a 2 post lift would cause the heavy front and rear ends to sag, making the car bow even more and cause alignment problems with the doors (and panels too). So if you were to weld the SFCs while in this condition, it would try to hold this shape when you let it down and you'd have problems.

I experienced negative camber a few days ago when I jacked up the front of my car - I opened the driver's door and then when I went to close it, it was angled over 1" too low to close properly! I had to lift up the door to close it (or I could've waited to lower the car).

 

you know I'm interested Dan!

I'll try to come up with the funds! or I'll wait til stage 2 is out and get both