Knock sensor issues...
#1
Knock sensor issues...
I installed a JWT ECU not long ago and then I started getting the 0304 code (knock sensor). So I call Nissan and asked them if I need to change the sensor or does it mean that it's detecting a knock and the sensor is actually okay. Well, they had no clue. So, I check on a new sensor. $165.00 !!!!! No thanks. Call the salvage yard. They have one for $15.00. That sounded much better. Then I think, well my wife has a '96 SE as well so I'll just switch our sensors and see if the problem follows the sensor or if it stays with my car. So I do that and now neither one of the cars has any codes coming up. I've been checking them about twice a week and for about two weeks all I get is the 0505 code (no malfunction). Now don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining. I just don't understand why suddenly the problem is gone. It's as if my car didn't like that paticular knock sensor but the one from my wife's car suits it's fancy a little better. Anybody have any idea why this would happen?
#2
Knock Sensor usually is trigged by another code.. my advice to you.. reset it.. see if it comes back in a week.. it might come back with an O2 sensor code.. if it does.. change the O2 sensor and the knock sensor code will go away..
if its just the Knock Sensor again.. you have no choice.. bad gas and open gas cap can also trip knock sensor code
if its just the Knock Sensor again.. you have no choice.. bad gas and open gas cap can also trip knock sensor code
#3
It hasn't come back yet.
The only time it ever on with the check engine light was when I used my tranny resistor bypass switch. Then they would both come up. Every other time, there was no check engine light. I would just check the codes from time to time and I'd always get the knock sensor code but nothing else. I'd clear it, and a couple days later it'd come up again. It's been about 2 or 3 weeks now and no codes with the different sensor. NOTHING but the sensor has changed. 93 octane at every fill-up. All normal maintenance is current (plugs, fuel filter, PCV, etc.) I guess I'll just keep an eye on it and see if anything pops up. Thanks.
#6
I will.
If it comes back one more time, I'll change it. Doesn't make too much sense to buy an advanced timing ECU just for it to get the timing retarded by a knock sensor. How common is it for these to go out? The reason I ask is, the guy at the salvage yard said I could come get one for $15, but if they are prone to going out I'd better just cough up the money for a new one. I wish there was a visual "knock monitor" or a "timing monitor".
#7
Re: I will.
Originally posted by BSwithTF
If it comes back one more time, I'll change it. Doesn't make too much sense to buy an advanced timing ECU just for it to get the timing retarded by a knock sensor. How common is it for these to go out? The reason I ask is, the guy at the salvage yard said I could come get one for $15, but if they are prone to going out I'd better just cough up the money for a new one. I wish there was a visual "knock monitor" or a "timing monitor".
If it comes back one more time, I'll change it. Doesn't make too much sense to buy an advanced timing ECU just for it to get the timing retarded by a knock sensor. How common is it for these to go out? The reason I ask is, the guy at the salvage yard said I could come get one for $15, but if they are prone to going out I'd better just cough up the money for a new one. I wish there was a visual "knock monitor" or a "timing monitor".
#8
Re: Re: I will.
Originally posted by medicsonic
It seems as though most people have a 0304 code when they check the CEL. The sensor is exposed to every extreme possible. It sits on top of the engine block where it is exposed to extreme heat, vibration and moisture, all while using a rather fragile piezoelectric element. I'm amazed that they last more than a year myself.
It seems as though most people have a 0304 code when they check the CEL. The sensor is exposed to every extreme possible. It sits on top of the engine block where it is exposed to extreme heat, vibration and moisture, all while using a rather fragile piezoelectric element. I'm amazed that they last more than a year myself.
#10
Travis-
I'll check my Chilton's manual and tell you what the volts should be on the knock sensor, if you want.
BTW, are you going to Mo/Kan Dragway this Sunday for opening day? I am!!!!!! 40 degrees and sunny is the forecast.
Dave
I'll check my Chilton's manual and tell you what the volts should be on the knock sensor, if you want.
BTW, are you going to Mo/Kan Dragway this Sunday for opening day? I am!!!!!! 40 degrees and sunny is the forecast.
Dave
#11
Originally posted by Dave B
Travis-
I'll check my Chilton's manual and tell you what the volts should be on the knock sensor, if you want.
BTW, are you going to Mo/Kan Dragway this Sunday for opening day? I am!!!!!! 40 degrees and sunny is the forecast.
Dave
Travis-
I'll check my Chilton's manual and tell you what the volts should be on the knock sensor, if you want.
BTW, are you going to Mo/Kan Dragway this Sunday for opening day? I am!!!!!! 40 degrees and sunny is the forecast.
Dave
#12
Originally posted by SprintMax
yup as greggy says.. if it keeps coming back.. then change it..
yup as greggy says.. if it keeps coming back.. then change it..
I actually hate the idea that mechanics probably do the same thing until your warranty is up, then they may suggest replacement
#14
Ya, I'll be there.
Originally posted by Dave B
Travis-
I'll check my Chilton's manual and tell you what the volts should be on the knock sensor, if you want.
BTW, are you going to Mo/Kan Dragway this Sunday for opening day? I am!!!!!! 40 degrees and sunny is the forecast.
Dave
Travis-
I'll check my Chilton's manual and tell you what the volts should be on the knock sensor, if you want.
BTW, are you going to Mo/Kan Dragway this Sunday for opening day? I am!!!!!! 40 degrees and sunny is the forecast.
Dave
I REALLY hope the weather clears! Right now it's about 38 degrees and it's been raining/drizzling since yesterday. Temperatures are great but the rain's gonna ruin it if it doesn't quit.
I've got a Chilton's but I don't have a voltmeter capable of measuring it. I'm pretty sure I need to buy one for the shop I work at though. They (I) could really use it.
Others:
What octane should be run with a JWT ECU for best results? Highest I got around here is 93. Is that good enough?
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