I decided to try out an e-Ram electric ramcharger. This is a 700w 50 amp electric fan that goes on the intake, providing about 3 lbs of thrust at 750 cfm. I've been running a cone intake for some time. The e-Ram is invisible, fitting into hose connectors between my cone and the MAF. It is activated at WOT by a NOS type throttle switch. It was quick and easy to install (less than an hour) and when the car is on the cam I definitely notice quicker revs to redline. Call it a poor man's supercharger; while it isn't in the class of a Vortech, it costs less than 1/10 and gives about 1/10 the effect. I bet this would be great installed inline into a CAI! For those with turbos on a car, it spools the turbo quicker with slightly higher pressure.

From their website (http://www.electricsupercharger.com/...m/autoprod.htm):

The eRAM slightly pressurizes the air box using a high powered electric motor driven axial flow fan running at 22,000 RPM at 3.5 " in diameter. The inlet air box is pressurized to approximately 1/2 psi, from what is usually a slight VACUUM of typical stock boxes which restrict air flow. Even using cool air induction tubes with filters, a vacuum of up to 1/2 psi (1 inch mercury), has been measured with stock air boxes and induction tubes at wide open throttle between 4500 to 7000 rpm. This is like running your car at 1500-ft altitude, which is a big power loss! You need to remove this restriction to gain the HP.

A 3 liter engine draws about 320 CFM at 6000 rpm. The fan has to produce that airflow at a 1/2psi pressure. To do this, with all the inefficiencies of flow and restriction, about 700 watts is needed. This is less than 1 hp of electrical energy required at 13 volts drawing about 50 amps. This gives a net 4-6% HP gain at the driven wheels, which is maintained throughout the HP curve. It's not peaky like a cam or header, but constant from end to end.

 

How is this working out for you? Is it really loud? That demo video sounds pretty lound and high pitched but i imagine it sounds different once installed.

 

Feel any differences? Plus if you combine this with a powerful stereo will you need a new alternator? I dont know how many amps 700 watts is......but id say its at least 50

 

Hey skeelo, he said it was a 50amp unit.
BTW,
Watts = (Volts) X (Amps)
Ohms = (Volts) / (Amps)

Which means it's a 14V unit and creates .28 Ohms of resistance. I've heard of these, and I've been wanting to get one. Turbo Zet is another one, they make dual fan (TT) units also, but they're like $300-$600 because they use a computer-controlled servo and stay on all the time. How much was this one and what kind of power are we talking about?

 

Sorry I am a skeptic. One question.. Dyno sheet?????

 

Doh! I didn't read carefully,,,i just looked at watts. Also the price per hp gained is much higher than from a stealin supercharger. But obviously it fits into ones budget.

 

These guys do make a double unit, but it would be hard to fit in a Maxima (maybe with a CAI? .... ) When the car is running, you can't even hear it, especially with a cone intake and modified exhaust like I have. There are times I've wanted to make sure the switch is set properly to activate at full throttle, so I'll shut down the engine to listen. Otherwise it's unnoticeable (at least in the cabin). It is designed only to run at WOT so as not to burn up the motor. Besides, why do you need extra power to cruise?

As for power/price, let's see ... a Stillen S/C is about $3600, plus, say, $800 for professional installation. If you get 50hp, that's $84/hp; install it yourself and that's $72/hp. If this thing gets you 5hp and costs $300, install yourself in an hour, that's $60/hp. Anyway, they have dynos posted on their website. One was from Frey Racing here in the Bay Area, where there have been Maxima meets. There is also some guy with a Maxima on there as a testimonial. Hey, it's not big power, but it does help. How much do people pay for other stuff like RT Cats and mufflers?

 

They are selling a product. You are not. You are telling me/us you like it.

That's why I asked if you had a dyno done. Not trying to be rude, but for $300 I was curious to see if you spent $70 to see if $300 bought you anything.

And a muffler is $150 max.. but the hp gains are minimal (2hp) unless your Nos's or sc'd or turbo'd

Again I am just trying to see what the bottom line is.

 

You could have gone to a hobby shop and made this very same thing for under $50.

The high power motor that e-ram uses is just a model airplane motor. Go to a hobby shop and you can get motors that spin faster much cheaper. Slap on an axial propeller and boom, you're in business.

How do I know? I researched it, I made my own. My motor spins at 50,000 rms and it has more torque than the e-ram's motor, it gives more pressure. Do I think this is a good mod? Certainly for less than 50 bucks you can't go wrong. But $300 for 700 CFM which claims to only give you 1 psi of boost is simply outrageous.

Here's what one guy proved:
http://home.att.net/~t.vago/eram-waste-howto.html

"if my E-Ram did draw 40-50 amps, it would quickly turn itself into a hot pile of molten slag. Passing 40 amps through a resistance of 0.9 ohms (such as the E-Ram's motor coil resistance) would give a power draw of 1360 watts. "


If it works or not, it's a good mod, a good mod to make yourself, not to buy. These things certainly don't make you lose power, if they give you a couple of ponies, more power to it. Make your own.

 

What kind of motor and propeller assembly did you use? I'm curious because I'd like to create one myself. For $50 it sounds pretty good. Also, how did you hook up the wiring for the motor/switch and where did you obtain the WOT switch?

 

you've been Kiborted sucker. anyone else remember this knucklehead on the bmw-digest list a few years back? i think he was pawning this crap on other lists as well.

http://www.bimmers.com/m3/hoax/

 

That guy just plain tore it apart huh?

SuDZ

 

i'll post some links later.

 

well..he worked some science on it, i wouldn't take his critique for granted though. If he hooked it up on a car and then dyno'ed it along with his science, it would be more believable. anyone can make things look bad in theory, but hardcore proof speaks for itself. So i'm not saying this this doesn't work, but i'm not saying that it does work. All i'm saying is that *at least it doesn't make you lose power.*

 

Dang Science.

Yeah I think if I threw out 300 bucks to find out I lost power it would not be put up on my "Things that make me happy" list.

SuDZ

 

No, haven't dynoed it. It's been on about 4 days. The only dyno around, Frey Racing (site of a dyno of one of the testimonials) is 65 miles from my house, and appointments have to be made. So far all I can say is I don't really notice any difference at low rpm, but my butt dyno says from 4k to redline is a bit quicker. I'll do more research when I get time. It's easy to do a dyno comparison, because one merely has to undo the connector wires ....

 

And remove it from the intake. If it is sitting in the intake it could cause you to have less HP due to lack of air flow.

You would have to do several (3) dyno runs without it in the intake at all.

Then hook everything back up and do another 3 . 2 could work but with 3 the results are better.

I again am not trying to put you down. I am tyring to help you truly see the results. So doing 3 with it off and 3 with it on you can take the average of each dyno and compare it to the other.

My 2 cents.. Actually 1 and 1/2

 

SO????

 

alrightt alrightttttt..i was busy in the outhouse

http://www.modelelectronicscorp.com/turbo10.html

The prices are a little higher. I think the Turbo10 motor is around thirty something, propellers should be bought at a hobby shop, so you can get to see them. Go to home depot and buy a 3 inch diameter tube, made of out any material, aluminum preferably. Looks like this will cost around $50-75 now a days.

The switch is easy. Lets talk about what a WOT switch is. Do you think you have to hook this switch up to the throttle body or something? Well the answer is no. A WOT switch goes under the gas pedal, when you press the gas pedal down all the way, you'll engage the switch, which turns the fan on. see how easy that is? They make it seem likeb break through technology.

You can search around for more electic plane motors if you want.

Alright i've said enough, you guys can figure out the rest.

 

What the heck are they talkin' about "timing advance" on an electric motor? Thanks for the info BTW.

 

you won't need to worry about the timing advance, thats only for if you're making a time machine. I duno if you should use this motor on your intake anymore, you might start traveling through time.

 

xXxMulePowerxXx

The bottomline is have you done this and does it work?

 

I'll tell you like this. I pull off faster. I'm not going to be all happy about it like yeah baby itrocks, all im saying is it gave me low end power.

If you're (meaning anyone reading this) not mechanically inclined, don't make your own. You'll probably do a shabby job and it'll break up and go into your intake manifold.

 

I'll have to get up to 88mph first though right?

 

I've been to Frey Racing to dyno a couple of times. My best was, I seem to recall, 192hp (it was posted on the old Maxima.org) They generally aren't going to give you 6 runs in an hour. Maybe 4 ... I don't thing there is much intake restriction because the fan inline is freewheeling without the power on. As for the switch, one can put one under the accelerator pedal, but it's easy to hook one up that is activated by the throttle. I do a lot of driving on back roads in the delta, so I hope to notice some benefits passing. What I would like to do is hook up a vacuum/pressure gauge to see if it really does give positive pressure.

 

This isn't supposed to be speed sensitive (actually, the contrary) but it does feel rpm sensitive. I don't notice much before the car gets on the cam, but it does feel like it helps on the cam.

 

I have a VG, I'm not familiar with "on the cam," (yeah I know, VE). Can't wait for my VG30DETT setup.

 

He was referring to Back to the Future

 

damn delorian couldn't get away from a stupid old van. took forever to hit "88". Must have been interstellar flux neo-diode butt monkey, i hear they take away HP.

 

this is what you really want, if it ever becomes available...

http://www.turbodyne.com/products/1500.html

 

The turbodyne systems are available already, but I don't know where, I saw a guy selling one about a month back. I doubt it's in public circulation. Garrett partnered with Turbodyne to make an electrically assisted turbo. What they wanted to do was use the electric supercharger part to help you on take offs and to help your turbo spool up quicker. So far whaT i think is that tyrbodyne's products will be released with Garrett's name, when they've done all the testing and stuff.

 

bump

 

why???

 

b/c a thread I just made about this topic was deleted.

 

Because you didn't search and there are enough of these electric butt charger threads already.

 

I wonder why???

 

Hitting yourself on over the head is not gonna help you figure that one out.

 

wuts up... i bought one of these white plastic electric fans and lost the installation sheet... do u know how to hook up wut to wut, cuz i have no clue...also do u konw how to set it up so it'll kick in on full throttle instead of flippin a switch....thnx for