Variable Intake from NZ thread
 

Starting a new thread because the last one is trashed with slander.

the way I understand it, I need to order a collector with "38U" stamped on it from my guy in NZ, as well as butterflies and a vacuum canister (which I could also just pick up locally).

I then need to buy an RPM switch, figure out where to mount the Purge Valve, and some vacuum hose. A Fuel Guage would also be a good idea.

The question is, what is the MAP/Baro switch used for, how does the vacuum canister work with it to open the valve?

How does this all hook together, and where does the Controller get air from?

I'm ordering it tonight. I will try and get a dyno done ASAP, so I can have a "Before" and "After" score.

NW People, where do I get my ride dyno'ed, how much does it cost, and would any of you be willing to donate for the dyno in the name of science? Give me some love, I AM risking my engine, here.

After I get my dynos and get it installed and prove it works on a N/A car without the ECU/Fuel problems, I will open up the market and sell them for a good price.

I will order from my guy as soon as soon as my questions get answered.

i know some of you N/A's have bought them from Road Beast....how's that coming? We should compare notes.

Thanks!
IanS

Matt,
From looking at your pictures, you got a nissan MAP Baro switch. Did the baro switch come with the varible intake. If not, what model/year nissan did you source this piece from.

Iansw are you NA?

Intrested in the Dyno results.

SuDZ

Yep. I only have a Pop Charger and Y-pipe at the moment.

Probably will get a CAI in at the same time as I do this.

I'm hoping to get dynoe'd Before and After, but I don't know anywhere local.

I also will be short on funds, and dynos are $$$.

Any donations greatly accepted. :p

IanS

If you are really going to do this I would be willing to throw in a small donation for dynos (PayPal) if it would put me on the list to get a VI after you find out if it works ;). If the entire project can be done for under $500 and it shows the expected gains I am in (Finances permitting). Harlan makes an RPM switch for $50 shipped, my Harlan shiftlight works fine. Would an EGT gauge be more helpfull than a FP gauge to determine if you are running lean?

A few other questions about the Variable intake. As far as I know the 5th Gen engine is very similer to the 4th gen except for the variable intake and slightly milder cam. Will the 4th gen engine with the variable intake behave like the 5th gen engine? The 5th gen variable intake activates at about 5000 RPM, will the 4th gen be about the same? Is power this high in the RPM range usefull? MardiGrasMax has his set to open at 5400, is this because of his boost or the design of the 4th gen engine? Without starting a huge pop-charger/CAI debate, would either system work better with a variable intake.

I know these questions can not be answered for sure until someone puts a VI on an N/A 4th gen, but if anyone can make an educated guess on these I would be interested.

You might want to hop onto www.Supraforums.com and read the NW section. They have dyno days up in Redmond "fairly" frequently. Carb tech in Redmond or something. Dunno when the next one is.

Talk to dirk (mike b) I know he got dynoed. Also look in the yellow pages under performance auto shops. I know there is someplace in kirkland that dynoes. :D

PartsCo.Com
236 Welcome Bay Rd
Welcome Bay
Tauranga
New Zealand
PH (07) 544 8256
Fax (07) 544 8257
E-mail Rockie@PartsCo.Com
Web Site www.PartsCo.Com

Cheston

Hi, thanks for the e-mail, your not wrong about there being a demand for them in the USA.

We call them Collectors.
The VQ30DE is a fairly new and reliable engine so there are not a lot of Collectors around. To make matters worse not all Maximas here have the Variable Intake Collector.

If the demand is great enough I will source some Second Hand from Japan.

All prices quoted in New Zealand Dollars. 1 NZ$ = approx 43 US cents.

The Bare Collector Brand New is about NZ$1400 ex Japan

Second Hand Collector is NZ$650.00 includes the cover and butterflies and Vacuum Canister.

Freight and Insurance NZ$249.31 Air or NZ$165.17 Air Economy


Regards
Rockie Ellmers

I'll help with the install too... :D

ok let me get this straight..

1 NZ = .43 US
650 NZ = x US

1x = .43 x 650 US
x = $279

am i right?

so with some more math.. a little algebra.. shipping is $107 and new one is $600

Just under $400 shipped, with the only other part needed being the RPM switch ($50) :lickout:

What are your guys opinions on what would be better. Using the rpm switch or using a WOT switch?

Yeah this guy is great
 

Rockie is who I've been working with for about 2 weeks giving him all the detail and I had the wrong terminology for the variable intake manifold...instead of collector is what they call it. But I sent him the money he went to get it and they said that the peice, which is the piece I wanted, was 1400NZ and so after his panic attack he called a junk yard and could find for about the exact price I sent him. So, he is great to work with. Just waiting on the piece now. Just to let you guys know.

the main reason why this is a good mod, imho is that our car suffers SO much after 5k.. its funny.

take a look at ANY dyno. NA or SC. and you will see the limits of the 4th gen at 5k+ imho, the rpm switch would be great.. maybe activate it at 4600....

the SC even suffers a little bit due to the design of our manifold... but i think mine just might have been my pancake filter..

IMHO. i doubt NA cars will get 25 fwhp out of this.. but maybe a good amount.. just dont think this is the miracle penecillin..that will cure all .. just it will help alot on the high end.

i think this might even help those with the CAI who suffer from MASSIVE hp drop after 5k..

--Cheston

Sprint:

Your Algebra is correct sire.

AND if we get a whole bunch shipped over at once.. we could all save some dough on over seas shipping..

--Cheston

ps. wow. were working together on something. yikes.

i bow down to you. oh great one.

:shiner:

I am in on one of these whenever all the details are worked out.

Whoa 25 ponies on a boosted ride!!! Hmmm sounds like Imma be broke for a little longer. Pix on the upgrade would be nice too see what'll have to be changed. So the variable intake make the difference here.

Dang and I just had my manifold plated. Maybe I'll wait to see how much you guys like this.

Exactly. The whole theory behind an intake manifold is resonance. The need for switching over the manifold is completely due to rpms. It has nothing to do with throttle position (WOT).

The whole reason intake manifolds are designed the way they are is because an engine does not flow air in a constant stream. It has stop/start flow characteristics (oscillation). This creates resonance inside the intake as the air oscillates up and down the intake runners. Intake manifolds use this beneficially to tune the intake to shove more air into the engine at certain rpms. Unfortunately, on a non-variable intake, what will add flow in one rpm range will reduce flow in another.

Another way to put it: If you were to hook up the variable intake manifold to a flow bench (constant flow source), you'd find that the low-rpm and high-rpm configuration would flow essentially the same. You could increase or decrease the flow and find they both flow the same. If you could make the flow stream pulsed, however, you'd find that the high-rpm setting would flow much better above a certain frequency (ie rpm), and the low-rpm setting much better below that frequency.

Whether or not the high- or low-rpm configuration flows better has nothing to do with the volumetric flow rate (throttle position), but has everything to do with the frequency of oscillation in the flow stream.

And 5000 rpms should be approx. the best point to switchover, as the 2000/1 3.0L used that rpm. I have a reason to believe Nissan knew what they were doing when they tuned the manifold. ;)

Hahahaha.

Looks like you all know my source now.

By my math, that's $350 if not shipped the expensive way.

IanS

Does the amount air pushed thru intake affect the variable system.
Ex: more boost. Does increasing the the PSI affect the intake?

I believe introducing boost changes the whole ballgame Uncle. Once you have positive psi, you are no longer really relying on signal pulses from the valve opening(resonances). Now you just want the best flowing thing you can get your hands on. But at off boost, you still have to deal with normal na vaccuum style situations. You still might want one IF this thing flow better than a normal one(which most of us agree it does because of the shorter length runners). This would also explain even when Kev had his manifold honed, it still didn't see much gains(still had the long runners to deal with) My $0.2 on this.

I would think for a high boost turbo application, a custom high flow short runner log type manifold would be best. But damn, that would be expensive on a V6 engine.

Nz source
 

I am wondering exactly what they mean by "vacuum canister" when they say that is included. I doubt this is the vacuum actuator system needed to switch the thing on at a certain RPM. In my search for a vacuum reservoir/canister (before Matt graciously shared his NAPA source) the vacuum lever--small cylinder bolted to the intake--was found as a "vacuum canister" at one vendor. I still think you need to spend near $100 for the entire RPM vacuum system, a la Matt ($50 for Harlan RPM SW, $20 for canister/tubing/check valve/T-piece, and depending on where you get it, ~$30 for the control solenoid)

:jump: scary isn't it :D

He has set one aside for me already and I am sending him the money as soon as he sends me a pic to ensure it's the right part.

Sooooon.....Muahahaha.

Now I just need somewhere to dyno....and possibly donations to do it.

Anyone?

IanS

IAN: lets just get a big group deal on one shipment to save on shipping.

No reason to just get one.

If we are gonna dyno one, I say it should be a 5-speed and not an automatic =)

I am willing to do dyno and I will help distribute them too.

Peace

Hahahaha.

Funny how it should be on a 5-speed, and not an auto, and you just happen to have a 5 speed. :laugh:

92% of Maximas are Auto. I think this mod would best be tested on an Auto, since most of us are Autos.

Cheston already gave the source away. You could order one yourself if you want it now.

Then you have your 5-speed, and I have my Auto...we can compare results.

I will probably be setting up a real group deal somemtiem down the road, after I get the one on my car and verify it really works on NA.

IanS

whats the point of hiding the source? :)


i told him that we could move about 6 units right away.. and i think thats true. if the price is like almost 40% savings over the ME version..

and if we get the units shipped to me here in CA.. i could take care of the westcoasters. and i dont mind shipping out to eastcoast cuz i might have a friend who has an account with UPS so the price for shipping would be sig cheaper..

i mean. we gotta all try to contact as many sources as possible to get this going.


no point in all of us trying to out bid each other for stuff.

hehe :D

OK sounds like a plan!

Well if a group of ppl want in on this first shipment, lets save on shipping anyway!

who all wants in on the first shipment?

hey. um. i guess i can set something up.?

if you would be interested. please send me your contact info.
name. shipping address, phone number.

then i can get a good count.

--cheston
chebosto@hotmail.com

I just wanted to make sure I got one, that's all.....as soon as I ordered it i was going to give the source away anyway, or do a group deal.

Either way, he had already earmarked one for me now, so I don't care if everyone buys from him direct, does a groupdeal through Cheston, or whatever.

I could also do a group deal. But I assume Cheston, having a website, and experience with selling, would be easier.

IanS

well. i just to see if this NZ version will work the same. you know? No point in all of us blowing $$$ if it doesnt work.. if you can get one from NZ, i'll help pay for some of your shipping.... just get one. dyno it asap. and then if its all good. then we can all get it.

i dont want to get everyone a pipe from NZ, and then find out its bogus...

but thats the same risk people took taking the ME version..

Ok....I'll be the monkey.

I may need more help with paying for the dynos than shipping costs.

Maybe Cheston, with his cool PayPal skills and website, could help raise the funds?

Anyone know of a dyno shop in Seattle?

Rocky is getting the pic of the manifold tomorrow. I will post it and verify it looks like the right one. MardiGrasMax should be able to verify this, I hope.

Then there's the remote chance I'll blow my engine to bits!
:scared:

:laugh:

Thanks!
IanS

Hey Ian, look in the yellow pages under auto performance shops, there is a place in their that has a dyno service, I'll get the number for ya tommorow if you can't find it. ;)

yea. waiting on the JPEG of the collector.

as far as the blown engine concern... i doubt it...
unless you lose your screwdriver down there when you're installing it..


i already have a list of 4 people who want it. and i just posted the grp buy thing like 2 hours ago.
so looking good.

I'll call around Seattle to some of the other car clubs, and the NW Nismo Syndicate, and see what prices i can get on a dyno and when. i want "Before" and "After"

IanS

Make that 5 assuming its the truely the same thing as the Middle East one.

That brings up another question.

how do we KNOW the Maximas from NZ have the same hp as the ones from the Middle East?

Who found out they had the same thing, and can i see some proof? i can't find any info about it out there.

IanS

any change in hp would be ECU adjusted fuel or ignition maps.. the Variable Intake system was re-introduced in 1997 and was given to a couple maxima's outside of the US from 1998 onward.. the US got theirs in 2000