Going through my old emails.. found some interesting stuff
Going through my old emails.. found some interesting stuff
Fuel Pump Install by Tony C. aka 1MAX2NV
Make sure your tank is close to empty. Sticking your hand into gasoline is no fun. The two hoses above the white plastic covering plate on the outside of the gas tank is pain in the *** to get loose . They are as tight as the fuel filter hoses, but you have less room to work with. When you put these two hoses back on, make sure you don't over tighten clamps. Pay attention on how tight they were before.
To get the fuel pump cradle loose from the gas tank. You need to stick your index finger down and unhook the snap. The snap is towards the front of the car. If not, you can always pull really hard up on the cradle. Make sure you pay special attention to the orientation of the one hose connects from the underside of the white covering plate to the fuel pump.
When you are putting this hose back. Stick the hose back on to the inlets/outlets but leave the two clamps loose. Close up the white plate. Make sure it's in the correct position and sits flush against the gas tank. This way you allow the hose to twist and rotate to the correct position. Lift the white plate back up just enough for you to move the clamps back into position and tighten them down. If you clamp them down first, the hose would not be in the correct position.
The white plate would not sit flush against the gas tank and if you force it to sit flush. The hose will kink or push the fuel pump cradle out of position. If the hose is kink, you will reduce fuel flow. If the fuel pump cradle is out of the position, the pump will not able to pick up gas when it's near empty. The fuel pressure will drop intermittently when it's near empty and cause the car to jerk and run lean.
Make sure you pay attention how the factory route the wiring harness from the white plate to the pump. Make sure the wires are away from the fuel level reader. I had the wiring harness routed the wrong way and it interfered with the fuel level reader. It would not read full when the tank is full.
JWT Nitrous Kit and ECU Brian C aka Cattman
I used a '96 ECU, can't be done at this time with anything later. There's a seperate NO2 control module that mounts in the ECU box, containing the alternate fuel mapping for when the NO2 kicks in. There's an arming microswitch that goes from the ECU and another set of wires that got to the NO2 solenoid controlling flow from the bottle, through the jet into your intake tubing.
To operate, you arm the switch (assuming you've pressurized the system via turning the valve, switching a remote shutoff valve, whatever) and floor it. If you're under 2500 rpm, nothing happens until you get there. When the NO2 kicks in the injectors go into more or less full duty cycle and start dumping in extra fuel, and since its a dry manifold system (extra fuel's coming directly into the cylinders) its safer and the fuel dispersal is equal to each cylinder.
Its a very efficient system, and its not unusual to get over 80hp at the wheels from the 65-shot jet (which is about as much as the stock fuel system/injectors can reliably back up).
You have to start with JWT's ECU upgrade and add the NO2 module, then you can buy their basic hardware kit (including a 10 pound tank, but no remote shutoff valve or bottle heater) put together by NOS (the company) specifically for JWT's dry-manifold system. You could do assemble your own hardware kit if you know enough about what's involved to get the right parts but the key is to use a 65-shot jet and JWT can tell you what size that is.
Prices for the parts and their various combinations (my price and JWT's price in parens). I don't sell the hardware separately, there's no reason to buy it alone if you think about it. In fact, I offer the hardware as a convenience -- the margin is so small that I basically pass it along with no profit.
JWT ECU upgrade -- $565 ($595) / $25 shipping
JWT NO2 module -- $425 ($450) / $25 shipping
ECU upgrade and NO2 module -- $950 ($1045) / $25 shipping
NO2 module and NOS hardware kit -- $995 ($1045) / $50 shipping
ECU upgrade, NO2 module and NOS hardware kit -- $1495 ($1640) / $50 shipping
Not exactly cheap, but far superior to a simple stand-alone NO2 system that has some haphazard or unreliable way of delivering the extra fuel. Nothing beats NO2-specific fuel mapping, ECU-controlled through the stock injectors.
- Damn good stuff
Make sure your tank is close to empty. Sticking your hand into gasoline is no fun. The two hoses above the white plastic covering plate on the outside of the gas tank is pain in the *** to get loose . They are as tight as the fuel filter hoses, but you have less room to work with. When you put these two hoses back on, make sure you don't over tighten clamps. Pay attention on how tight they were before.
To get the fuel pump cradle loose from the gas tank. You need to stick your index finger down and unhook the snap. The snap is towards the front of the car. If not, you can always pull really hard up on the cradle. Make sure you pay special attention to the orientation of the one hose connects from the underside of the white covering plate to the fuel pump.
When you are putting this hose back. Stick the hose back on to the inlets/outlets but leave the two clamps loose. Close up the white plate. Make sure it's in the correct position and sits flush against the gas tank. This way you allow the hose to twist and rotate to the correct position. Lift the white plate back up just enough for you to move the clamps back into position and tighten them down. If you clamp them down first, the hose would not be in the correct position.
The white plate would not sit flush against the gas tank and if you force it to sit flush. The hose will kink or push the fuel pump cradle out of position. If the hose is kink, you will reduce fuel flow. If the fuel pump cradle is out of the position, the pump will not able to pick up gas when it's near empty. The fuel pressure will drop intermittently when it's near empty and cause the car to jerk and run lean.
Make sure you pay attention how the factory route the wiring harness from the white plate to the pump. Make sure the wires are away from the fuel level reader. I had the wiring harness routed the wrong way and it interfered with the fuel level reader. It would not read full when the tank is full.
JWT Nitrous Kit and ECU Brian C aka Cattman
I used a '96 ECU, can't be done at this time with anything later. There's a seperate NO2 control module that mounts in the ECU box, containing the alternate fuel mapping for when the NO2 kicks in. There's an arming microswitch that goes from the ECU and another set of wires that got to the NO2 solenoid controlling flow from the bottle, through the jet into your intake tubing.
To operate, you arm the switch (assuming you've pressurized the system via turning the valve, switching a remote shutoff valve, whatever) and floor it. If you're under 2500 rpm, nothing happens until you get there. When the NO2 kicks in the injectors go into more or less full duty cycle and start dumping in extra fuel, and since its a dry manifold system (extra fuel's coming directly into the cylinders) its safer and the fuel dispersal is equal to each cylinder.
Its a very efficient system, and its not unusual to get over 80hp at the wheels from the 65-shot jet (which is about as much as the stock fuel system/injectors can reliably back up).
You have to start with JWT's ECU upgrade and add the NO2 module, then you can buy their basic hardware kit (including a 10 pound tank, but no remote shutoff valve or bottle heater) put together by NOS (the company) specifically for JWT's dry-manifold system. You could do assemble your own hardware kit if you know enough about what's involved to get the right parts but the key is to use a 65-shot jet and JWT can tell you what size that is.
Prices for the parts and their various combinations (my price and JWT's price in parens). I don't sell the hardware separately, there's no reason to buy it alone if you think about it. In fact, I offer the hardware as a convenience -- the margin is so small that I basically pass it along with no profit.
JWT ECU upgrade -- $565 ($595) / $25 shipping
JWT NO2 module -- $425 ($450) / $25 shipping
ECU upgrade and NO2 module -- $950 ($1045) / $25 shipping
NO2 module and NOS hardware kit -- $995 ($1045) / $50 shipping
ECU upgrade, NO2 module and NOS hardware kit -- $1495 ($1640) / $50 shipping
Not exactly cheap, but far superior to a simple stand-alone NO2 system that has some haphazard or unreliable way of delivering the extra fuel. Nothing beats NO2-specific fuel mapping, ECU-controlled through the stock injectors.
- Damn good stuff
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Hdnseek
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Sep 9, 2015 05:55 AM