Engine Rebuild
#1
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Engine Rebuild
Here's the latest on my engine rebuild. The motor is completely apart at the machine shop. The pistons and valves had some carbon build up but not too bad. The crank, rods,ccams, and the rest of the surfaces looked new with just a very small amount of oil varnish at the bottom of the pan. I was really impressed considering the car is almost 6 years old and has 35 thousand miles. Synthetic oil changes every 3000 miles or 90 days do keep the engine clean!!
They will port match the exhaust and intake, blueprint and balance the reciprocating mass, hone the cylinders, clean up the heads, shot pean and polish and resize the rods, do a 3 angle valve job and whatever else they find important to do.
They will put in the 9:1 pistons, rings, and stronger springs from the VQ30DET (Turbo) motor. Also, I bought new head bolts, exhaust manifold bolts, complete engine gasket kit, rod bolts and bearings, crankshaft bearings, and water pump.
Also, I had the exhaust manifolds and Y-pipe high heat ceramic coated to help move the exhaust gases quicker. I took off the header wrap and the y-pipe was really crudded up so we did the coatings in matte black, looks cool! I had the heads sandblasted and then coated wih high temp clear coat and they look great. The quality of the aluminun on the heads isn't very good, too many fine cracks etc, and weren't worth trying for a high polish. With the engine out, I was able to clean and paint most of the rust from 5 winters in Cleveland.
Hopefully, the motor will be done next week.
They will port match the exhaust and intake, blueprint and balance the reciprocating mass, hone the cylinders, clean up the heads, shot pean and polish and resize the rods, do a 3 angle valve job and whatever else they find important to do.
They will put in the 9:1 pistons, rings, and stronger springs from the VQ30DET (Turbo) motor. Also, I bought new head bolts, exhaust manifold bolts, complete engine gasket kit, rod bolts and bearings, crankshaft bearings, and water pump.
Also, I had the exhaust manifolds and Y-pipe high heat ceramic coated to help move the exhaust gases quicker. I took off the header wrap and the y-pipe was really crudded up so we did the coatings in matte black, looks cool! I had the heads sandblasted and then coated wih high temp clear coat and they look great. The quality of the aluminun on the heads isn't very good, too many fine cracks etc, and weren't worth trying for a high polish. With the engine out, I was able to clean and paint most of the rust from 5 winters in Cleveland.
Hopefully, the motor will be done next week.
#3
Re: Engine Rebuild
Originally posted by i30krab
Hopefully, the motor will be done next week.
Hopefully, the motor will be done next week.
-hype
#6
Re: Re: Engine Rebuild
Originally posted by xHypex
Sounds like you're doing a very comprehensive rebuild. I've seen a few guys with DET motors (you, Tilley, etc.), and I was curious to see how involved it is to get one. I'd like to do a rebuild in the future (3+ years), and the DET internals look like the best option. Would you mind sharing some info
-hype
Sounds like you're doing a very comprehensive rebuild. I've seen a few guys with DET motors (you, Tilley, etc.), and I was curious to see how involved it is to get one. I'd like to do a rebuild in the future (3+ years), and the DET internals look like the best option. Would you mind sharing some info
-hype
but if you arent boosted over 10psi I really dont think its necessary to spend the money building up the engine
#8
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Originally posted by JUDE
Are you rebuilding because you broke the engine? I doubt that would be it with only 35k miles and synthetic oil changes.
Are you rebuilding because you broke the engine? I doubt that would be it with only 35k miles and synthetic oil changes.
Otherwise, eventually BOOOOOOOOOm.
#9
Originally posted by i30krab
I'm rebuilding the motor to drop the compression ratio to 9:1 because i'm running 14lbs of boost and a 65 shot of N2O will be installed soon.
Otherwise, eventually BOOOOOOOOOm.
I'm rebuilding the motor to drop the compression ratio to 9:1 because i'm running 14lbs of boost and a 65 shot of N2O will be installed soon.
Otherwise, eventually BOOOOOOOOOm.
#10
Originally posted by i30krab
I'm rebuilding the motor to drop the compression ratio to 9:1 because i'm running 14lbs of boost and a 65 shot of N2O will be installed soon.
Otherwise, eventually BOOOOOOOOOm.
I'm rebuilding the motor to drop the compression ratio to 9:1 because i'm running 14lbs of boost and a 65 shot of N2O will be installed soon.
Otherwise, eventually BOOOOOOOOOm.
Are you using 555cc injectors too, or 370cc?
#11
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Yes, It is the JWT system. I bought it from them and I have to get it installed locally and then go back to JWT for a tuning. I already have their N2O daughter board! I have the 300ZXTT injectors, I forgot their flow rate!
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