CV joint boot tear? help
CV joint boot tear? help
i need help 1996 i30
when i rotate my tires, i saw greases all over tire and brake. i thought my break hose was break but my friend told me my cv joint boot is tear. (Tear at Front Driver side) what is cv joint boot.. ? how much it cost and how can i repair it?
thanX,
when i rotate my tires, i saw greases all over tire and brake. i thought my break hose was break but my friend told me my cv joint boot is tear. (Tear at Front Driver side) what is cv joint boot.. ? how much it cost and how can i repair it?
thanX,
The CV (constant velocity) joint allows your front wheels to be turned by the motor while you steer, move up and down with bumps and flex as needed. As you can imagine, that connection needs a pretty beefy amount of strength to handle the power of the engine while doing all the other things a front wheel needs to do.
Further to your situation, that part needs a lot of lubrication and protection. After close to 10 years, it's reasonable that the protective boot would tear. The problem is that you're now on limited time before that joint causes other problems (aside from the grease getting everywhere). It has to be replaced. Severe signs of this repair being needed are: First it will begin to knock loudly during turns and finally it will break and leave you stranded.
Some schools of thought would say that the repair needed is to replace the boot only and that afterwards, it will be fine. Others would say that if you look closely at the other components that have to be removed (to even get to the boot), you're better off just replacing the entire axle.
My personal theory is that each situation is different but I would seriously consider the following known info:
1. Known info: The boot is torn & the grease ran out. This means that road trash, gravel and other contaminants have been able to get in there and contaminate the CV joint. (This is not the place to ignore such things as contaminating where power goes to the drive wheels.)
2. The joints are both about 10 years old. That the driver's side boot tore only means that the other one (passenger side) is going to soon also.
3. The cost of the entire axle isn't that bad when compared with the labor it will cost to get to it and remove it.
4. You will need to have a front end alignment done after the repair is made. (to set the toe)
Given these 4 items, based on your financial situation, you should make every effort to replace both axles and get the alignment done too. If funds are just not available to you right now, do the damaged axle first, then do the other when it tears too. (it could last another year).
If you have some friends with experience doing this and some good tools, you may be able to take care of it yourself, but as you indicated from your initial questions your experience level may not be far along enough to do it yourself unless you have experienced help.
If you replace both axles, be sure to clean up the wheel wells from all of the grease that was slung out. Some Dawn detergent and hot water or engine cleaner and a scrub brush will work pretty well.
If you decide to replace just one axle, go look at the other one first (closely) and make sure that it is not already on it's way out. You'll kick yourself for not dong both if both were really needed. If the other CV joint looks good, clean it really well (including the other suspension components) and put a coating of silicone lubricant on the boot to help it last longer. Maintian the silicone coating often on the new and old axles.
Further to your situation, that part needs a lot of lubrication and protection. After close to 10 years, it's reasonable that the protective boot would tear. The problem is that you're now on limited time before that joint causes other problems (aside from the grease getting everywhere). It has to be replaced. Severe signs of this repair being needed are: First it will begin to knock loudly during turns and finally it will break and leave you stranded.
Some schools of thought would say that the repair needed is to replace the boot only and that afterwards, it will be fine. Others would say that if you look closely at the other components that have to be removed (to even get to the boot), you're better off just replacing the entire axle.
My personal theory is that each situation is different but I would seriously consider the following known info:
1. Known info: The boot is torn & the grease ran out. This means that road trash, gravel and other contaminants have been able to get in there and contaminate the CV joint. (This is not the place to ignore such things as contaminating where power goes to the drive wheels.)
2. The joints are both about 10 years old. That the driver's side boot tore only means that the other one (passenger side) is going to soon also.
3. The cost of the entire axle isn't that bad when compared with the labor it will cost to get to it and remove it.
4. You will need to have a front end alignment done after the repair is made. (to set the toe)
Given these 4 items, based on your financial situation, you should make every effort to replace both axles and get the alignment done too. If funds are just not available to you right now, do the damaged axle first, then do the other when it tears too. (it could last another year).
If you have some friends with experience doing this and some good tools, you may be able to take care of it yourself, but as you indicated from your initial questions your experience level may not be far along enough to do it yourself unless you have experienced help.
If you replace both axles, be sure to clean up the wheel wells from all of the grease that was slung out. Some Dawn detergent and hot water or engine cleaner and a scrub brush will work pretty well.
If you decide to replace just one axle, go look at the other one first (closely) and make sure that it is not already on it's way out. You'll kick yourself for not dong both if both were really needed. If the other CV joint looks good, clean it really well (including the other suspension components) and put a coating of silicone lubricant on the boot to help it last longer. Maintian the silicone coating often on the new and old axles.
Dr-rip,
Thanks. Mine will be there in about a year, I think. I've already got 116K on it. I'm "babying" them both now but one is weeping grease out of the small end on the pass. side.
What kind of shop did you have do it?
Do you do the alignment afterwards?
Thanks. Mine will be there in about a year, I think. I've already got 116K on it. I'm "babying" them both now but one is weeping grease out of the small end on the pass. side.
What kind of shop did you have do it?
Do you do the alignment afterwards?
I did mine myself about 3 weeks ago, becuase both of my boots were torn basically all winter. It wasn't THAT difficult aside from having someone break the axle nuts loose, those things are crazy tight, I broke a 2 foot break bar. It took about 5 hours to do both sides, and woulda taken less but I didn't learn until I got my axles that I had VLSD, and bought the wrong ones. Get a Haynes manuals, it gives instructions pretty well. When i saw my boots were torn I bought the boot kit and was just going to repack the boots, but the time involved into doing that, and the cost of doing the whole axle made my mind up for me. It costs me about 160 after core for both axles.
Originally Posted by Double E
Dr-rip,
Thanks. Mine will be there in about a year, I think. I've already got 116K on it. I'm "babying" them both now but one is weeping grease out of the small end on the pass. side.
What kind of shop did you have do it?
Do you do the alignment afterwards?
Thanks. Mine will be there in about a year, I think. I've already got 116K on it. I'm "babying" them both now but one is weeping grease out of the small end on the pass. side.
What kind of shop did you have do it?
Do you do the alignment afterwards?
The owner is really very good in fixing imports, although he primarily works on Acuras (my daughter and girlfirend both drive Integras, and I've taken both of ther cars to him).
As for the alignment, it shouldn't be necessary to have it done.
However, I am having mine rechecked this weekend (along with the tire blancing) because my steering wheel still leans to the left, and my car has a bit of a shake above 60 MPH (may have a bent rim).
Does 96 I30 equip with LSD ?
thanx for quick replies...
just went to part shop for price . they ask me if my car is equiped with LSD
( limited-slip differential )
96 I30, Automatic
Trans. Axle: RE4F04A
does my car equip with LSD?
just went to part shop for price . they ask me if my car is equiped with LSD
( limited-slip differential )
96 I30, Automatic
Trans. Axle: RE4F04A
does my car equip with LSD?
Ok...I'll toss you a bone but you should really read the FAQ posting at the top of our thread to eliminate some redundant posts.
On the inside of the engine bay on the left side is a tranny code, it should end in a "V" if you have a LSD. Also, the t models of our cars (at least most years) all have LSD as standard equipment.
On the inside of the engine bay on the left side is a tranny code, it should end in a "V" if you have a LSD. Also, the t models of our cars (at least most years) all have LSD as standard equipment.
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