Infiniti I30/I35 Similar to a Maxima, yet not really a Maxima. Discussion forum on Nissan's luxury model, the Infiniti I30/I35

Should I buy this? (phenryiv1 is the king of all moderators)

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Old 08-14-2006, 12:44 AM
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new here also, cannot post a new thread

Hello
i am new to this forum.
i am looking into buying 2000 infinit i30, it has 120k miles, the car seems to be in good shape, clean title, no major mechaninc problems exposed, few dents here and there, color is biege,
seller asking for $7000, i am just worried about the high mileage and whether infinit has expensive maintenance?????
what are the major known problems for the infinit i30 (STD edition)?

you think this car is a good buy?
Thanks
Mo
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Old 08-14-2006, 04:12 AM
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:01 AM
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Shouldn't be expensive to maintain since all mechanical parts are interchangeable with the maxima. $7000 for a 2k is a steal, you can probably bargain it down a little also. To give you an idea, I got my 98 for 6500$ from 7000$ listing
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:40 AM
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I would not be worried about the 120K on the clock. Maintainance on them is not really too bad, and the savings that you will see by purchasing it for such a good price will allow you to do any needed maintainance. I would think about doing the plugs and other 100-120K scheduled maintainance, but overall, it sounds like a good deal.
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:51 AM
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Seems like a good deal. I am trying to get the exact same from my buddy with 100k miles for a about $6000, not quite perfect though.

Anyone that went to West Virginia that should've gone to Marshall and the Thundering Herd can't be #1 ??
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Old 08-14-2006, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by The Flash
Seems like a good deal. I am trying to get the exact same from my buddy with 100k miles for a about $6000, not quite perfect though.

Anyone that went to West Virginia that should've gone to Marshall and the Thundering Herd can't be #1 ??
Does not compute.
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Old 08-14-2006, 09:11 AM
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All things considered $7000 is a fair deal... but not a great deal.
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Old 08-14-2006, 10:27 AM
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$7K is fair. I'm selling mine w/ higher mileage for $7,000 (assuming i take off the wheels and stereo). But, the car i'm selling doesn't have any dents....

Also, the beige color is not in high demand...so you might get him to knock a couple of bucks off the price. Just some random info to help you make your choice.
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Old 08-14-2006, 10:33 AM
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I don't know what kind of shape the one at the top is in, but yours seems like it is in great shape. Maybe $7K for the one at the top is only a fair deal...it really depends on a lot of unknown factors.
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Old 08-15-2006, 11:51 AM
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Thanks guys

Thank you all for your valuable input... i offered the owner $6500, didnt hear back from him yet.. so i am crossing my fingers

How much MPG do you get with your cars? do u have to fill Premium?
Thanks
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Old 08-15-2006, 12:10 PM
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Yes, you will pretty much have to use premium. I get about 24-27 mpg depending on city/hwy, but I kinda drive like a sissy, soo.. and with it having alil higher mileage Id say expect 22-23
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Old 08-15-2006, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by arssa2020
Thank you all for your valuable input... i offered the owner $6500, didnt hear back from him yet.. so i am crossing my fingers

How much MPG do you get with your cars? do u have to fill Premium?
Thanks
My wife runs 89 in her 2000 Maxima and has had BETTER gas mileage with that than with 93. She gets 25-26 MPG in mixed driving.

My 97 got better mileage with premium, but it had more miles. You have to try both and see.

Don't try 87- you will feel the difference.
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Old 08-19-2006, 03:17 PM
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i bought it

well, i got it for $6800 , i had it inspected by a local mechanic, he said its good overall, but the tires
(back) are in bad shape so i need new tires ASAP, any recommendations?

He recommended V rating tires, V is a speed/performance tire right? do i need to go with V? any recommendations on a tire brand (i am very newbie when it comes to car mechanics ....:-) )

also, its seems that the the equivalent of a timing belt (forgot what its called, something like piconic belt??????) is cracked and needs changing, he quoted me 62.99 for the part and 45 for labor.. does it sound like a right price?

Thanks
Mo
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Old 08-20-2006, 11:02 AM
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My piconic belt goes out all the time......

I just got my 2001 and haven't had the chance to poke around but if it's anything like my 98 I30, you only have 2 belts. The Power steering belt, and the alternator/compressor belt.

neither of which should cost $68.

Try to find out exactly what that guy is talking about. Then get a Haynes manual, a set of metric sockets and a ratchet, and do it yourself.

As for tires. Replace the whole set. You'll be much happier and so will your car.
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Old 08-20-2006, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by arssa2020
well, i got it for $6800 , i had it inspected by a local mechanic, he said its good overall, but the tires
(back) are in bad shape so i need new tires ASAP, any recommendations?

He recommended V rating tires, V is a speed/performance tire right? do i need to go with V? any recommendations on a tire brand (i am very newbie when it comes to car mechanics ....:-) )

also, its seems that the the equivalent of a timing belt (forgot what its called, something like piconic belt??????) is cracked and needs changing, he quoted me 62.99 for the part and 45 for labor.. does it sound like a right price?

Thanks
Mo
Piconic belt?!? $62.99 and $45 labor for a part that does not exist ... You have a timing chain. Made of metal. No replacement needed... I suggest you find a different mechanic asap... maybe one that does not try to rape you in the @ss.
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Old 08-21-2006, 10:28 PM
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I've never heard of a piconic belt. It definetly is not the timing belt considering VQ engines use a timing chain. Also definetly get tires all around, it will be worth it.
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:46 AM
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hey yogi, who stole my piconic belt? He probably meant the serpentine belt.....
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Old 08-26-2006, 02:40 PM
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Hey KRRZ350,
you got it man.......its the serpentine belt, i called the mechanic today and confirmed that..
i got a quote from another mechaninc to fix it for $75, is that a fair price?
he said its cracked, i cannot tell by looking at it whether that is true

i am also getting 2 rear tires (since the front still have some tread)
the rear ones have the metal showing, i am getting 2
Bridgestone HP50 for $240 installed from Sears

my question is, should i place the new tires in the front (and put the current front in the back) or should i keep my new tires in the back?
(since its a front wheel car, what is the recommended procedure)

also should i get an wheel alignment (for all four tires)?

Regards
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Old 08-26-2006, 04:49 PM
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Put the new tire in the back!
This is what i have been told.
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Old 08-26-2006, 09:09 PM
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you were told wrong. you want the new tires to be on the drive wheels which is front.
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Old 08-27-2006, 05:34 PM
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If you put the new tire in front and the old ones in the back you will have to take it careful when it rains.
But you probebly get most miles of your tires if you do as i30ds says.
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Old 08-28-2006, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by i30ds
you were told wrong. you want the new tires to be on the drive wheels which is front.
I have also heard that you run your better tires in the back as well, since it promotes predictability while cornering in adverse conditions.

I can see why a FWD would want the better tires in the front, but the rationale for keeping the better tread in the rear makes sense as well.
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Old 08-28-2006, 12:30 PM
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True.

I just always think from a CO perspective where we have to deal with snow and ice in the winter. Since the drive wheels are on the front one would want the maximum amount of tread there for when you start out driving on thick snow and slippery ice.
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Old 08-28-2006, 03:54 PM
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clean the headlights

i noticed that sometimes the car makes some noise when i first start it, it seems to be coming from the front (at the same time the ABS light in the dash board is on)


also, i have some moisture on my headlights, i plan to clean them out next weekend, is it a straight forward procedure?

Thanks
arssa2020
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Old 08-28-2006, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by arssa2020
i noticed that sometimes the car makes some noise when i first start it, it seems to be coming from the front (at the same time the ABS light in the dash board is on)


also, i have some moisture on my headlights, i plan to clean them out next weekend, is it a straight forward procedure?

Thanks
arssa2020

Your best bet would be to take the headlight out, and if you dont feel like dissassembling the whole unit and cleaning it, simply blast a hairdryer through one hole, letting the moist air slowly escape.

BUT..... This begs the question.. why is there moisture in there in the first place? If it's cracked, you need to replace the headlights. I have a pair if you need them. But, if there are no cracks, it is probably a leak in the sealant between the 2 pieces. you can bake the headlights in the oven, separate the lens from the housing, and refill the seals with a type of silicone adhesive or weatherstrip adhesive. Not sure exactly what kind to use on that cus of the high heat and all.
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Old 08-29-2006, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by arssa2020
i noticed that sometimes the car makes some noise when i first start it, it seems to be coming from the front (at the same time the ABS light in the dash board is on)


also, i have some moisture on my headlights, i plan to clean them out next weekend, is it a straight forward procedure?

Thanks
arssa2020
THe moisture will come back unless you either replace the headlight or drill a hole in it so the moisture can escape.
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Old 08-30-2006, 04:24 PM
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tires

Hello All,
well i put the tires in the back since the SEARS people insisted on doing so
and he said that my front tires are really gone (need to be changed within couple of weeks, however two of my friends told me they still got 6 months in them), he also said he couldn't rotate the front tires for that reason
and its against SEARS policy to swap the front/back tires.

However, after i installed the new tires, something weired happens, whenever i brake, it seems the car gets out of line(not a lot, just a little bit, especially on the front) and i have to hold on to the steering and quickly correct it

and if i go straight, the car doesn't go straight %100, it tilts to the right

so is it alignment? that will explain the car not going in a straight line, but what about the braking scenario? (now i have new tires in back, old in front, didn't perform wheel alignment after installing the new tires)

also, i think i will enjoy my car more if i lower it (a little bit, so it looks/feels better as i like low center of gravity) i don't want to go 2 crazy.
is it a simple new springs/struts? how much should it cost ?

Regards
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Old 08-30-2006, 04:32 PM
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I got my 2000 I30T for 10k with 62k miles on it, the dealer wanted 13.5k and KBB said it was worth about 14.5K, I gotta mention that it was like a brand new car, I posted few pics on these forums.
As to your car, I think its a decent deal.
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Old 08-31-2006, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by arssa2020
...and its against SEARS policy to swap the front/back tires...
Its against their policy to follow the NISSAN recommended rotation pattern?!?
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Old 09-01-2006, 04:19 PM
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hey all,
does anyone knows the asnwer to my questions ? many thanks
whenever i brake, it seems the car gets out of line(not a lot, just a little bit, especially on the front) and i have to hold on to the steering and quickly correct it

and if i go straight, the car doesn't go straight %100, it tilts to the right

so is it alignment? that will explain the car not going in a straight line, but what about the braking scenario? (now i have new tires in back, old in front, didn't perform wheel alignment after installing the new tires)
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Old 09-01-2006, 07:56 PM
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alignment and warped rotors.
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